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Rat Rig Community [Unofficial]

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ratos-support

fix-my-print

fix-my-printer

fix-my-resonance

fix-my-mesh

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Klipper error after update

After updating the printer i got an error message. Can anyone help out ?
No description

ADC out of range

when my toolhead is moving the hotend temperature rise and decrease by just moving the toolhead. What can cause this?

Z_TILT_ADJUST_ORIG internal error after updates

After updating I had an error that got worked through here: https://discord.com/channels/582187371529764864/1326302373466869815/1326302373466869815 Now things are running and I can home my all my axis, but when I try to do the z tilt I get an internal error. I dug through the klippy.log and this seems to be the relevant portion. ``` Internal error on command:"Z_TILT_ADJUST_ORIG" Traceback (most recent call last):...

VCORE 4 (HYBRID)forward and backward movement generate error

Whenever i move forward or backward i get the error TMC 'stepper_y' reports error: DRV_STATUS: 80130020 s2vsb=1(ShortToSupply_B!) cs_actual=19 stst=1 Once the underlying issue is corrected, use the "FIRMWARE_RESTART" command to reset the firmware, reload the config, and restart the host software. Printer is shutdown...

Issues with VAOC on new V-core 4 500 IDEX

I am working my way though this guide. https://docs.ratrig.com/v-core-4-0/idex-commissioning I am at Initial vaoc calibration part of the guide. I line up T0 and T1. When I click the square to save I get this error:
6:13 PM Move out of range: 562.794 247.444 30.000 [0.000] 6:13 PM...

Lost communication with MCU 'toolboard_t0'

Hi, I am at a loss with my Vcore 4 400, it has been plagued with Lost communication errors. It worked great for the first month and then I would get Timeout with Lost communication with MCU 'toolboard_t0' errors a few hours into prints. I replaced the USB-C cable recrimped the power to the toolboard and then the printer worked great for another month or so and now I am getting the same issue again...
Solution:
@TheTik @blacksmithforlife 🇺🇸 Replacing the USB-C cable resolve the issue :pepehands:

'ratos_homing' not a valid section

I just updated everything on my vcore3 for the first time in about a year maybe. I've got an error saying that Section 'ratos_homing' is not a valid config section. All the suggestions online say to go to the configurator and click on actions -> symlink klippy extensions, but that seems like old advice and I can't find any "actions" anywhere. The configurator url doesn't seem to do much. It's just the header and side bar and then blank in the middle.

V-Core 3.1 Belt-Tension

Hello. I disassembled my V-Core 3.1 300mm again, realigned it and installed new belts. I've had the printer for 3 years now. I was already confused about the belt tension at the time. Now I notice it again. Before installing the belts, I aligned the X axis at the front of the idlers. After belt measurement tension several times, I have approximately the same tension on both belts. But now one side is pulled back again. This means that the X axis is no longer align to the idlers. It's always been...

Toolboard shutdown: "ADC out of range" after changing nozzle

I removed my nozzle today to switch from .6 to .4 and as soon as the nozzle came loose, klipper immediately shut down due to not heating as intended. Upon installation of the new nozzle and a firmware restart, klipper throws this error. I've been printing fine with this exact setup for months with no issue. My last print was Thursday of last week and it was flawless. I have an EBB42 v1.2, Rapido UHF, PT1000, crimped connections, and have double checked that everything is tight. The jumper for the PT100 on the toolboard is working as it displays two very different numbers when removed. The only thing I've done today other than change the nozzle was to update everything available from the machine tab, which gave me problems as well like breaking the RatOS Git link or something, but I resolved that through manually updating in the right order. I also tried reflashing the toolboard through the configurator I tried changing the value of the pullup resistor like I saw in a recent help post to no avail. Don't know what to look for or how I managed to brick the printer by changing a nozzle. Any help would be amazing, happy Monday!...
Solution:
Just wanted to update this, the new toolboard arrived yesterday and I was able to install this morning. Ran the configurator to flash the new toolboard, reassembled and everything is working as should. 100% somehow fried/damaged the previous board by changing a nozzle :chefkiss:

X-Y direction different sizes!

I have a nicely assembled Ratrig 3.1 400x400 printer. I made a calibration star with flat measuring tips, where the two diagonals and the vertical and horizontal dimensions should be 250mm. While I managed to adjust the diagonals nicely with belt tension and rotation distance fine-tuning to 250.00 mm, the horizontal and vertical dimensions (x-y) differ from this. It doesn't matter if the belts are stretched like guitar strings or hanging like pants strings, the vertical dimension is larger: 250....

Z-Tilt Issue

Hello everyone! I'm running Z-Tilt adjustment on my 3D printer, I have two steppers in the front and 1 in the back. (CoreXY for XY). After Z-Tilt is done, if I start a print that goes form the from to the back, the rear half will be too far from the bed and the front half too close, I always end up "manually" moving the rear stepper up 1 step, and the front 2 steppers down one step each. ...

Rear of print bed always lower than front

Hey, I've got a VCore V3.1 - 500 and have struggled for a while with the rear of the bed being lower which is causing issues setting a Z-Offset. (Front always too close, Rear always too far if set in the middle) The bed mesh isn't too bad with around a 0.4mm range, and it would appear as though the mesh is compensating correctly as the rear side with the rear center peak is being corrected. However, it seems to consistently drop by around 0.3mm from front to back as if the bed is tilted backward. ...
No description

Z-Tilt is only adjusting one Axis.

Another day, another problem. I'm working hard to get my VzBot Triple-Z working on RatOS. The last thing is the Z-tilt. I have buzzed the motors to ensure they are in the proper sequence. Z = Front Left, Z1 = Back, and Z2 = Front Right. Homing is working fine, and Beacon initialisation was done with no problem. The issue with Z-Tilt is that Z2 keeps adjusting more and more, and neither does the other Z-Axis. I have swapped cables, and they are still the same. I just moved the problem to anoth...

Update crash

Hello, I just added a EBB 42 V1.2 to my Vcore 3.1 and when I updated all of the items in the update manager, I got an error and I have no idea what happened to it. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
No description

When homing z the probe doesnt trigger and rams the hotend in the bed

I am finalising the my vcore3.1 ratos 2.1 rc3 with ebb42 and 8mm npn-no probe. At first my homing, ztilt and bed mesh went fine. After bed and hotend pid tuning I wanted to set the nozzle offset. From this point everytime I home z the hotend rams into the bed twisting the gantry. Ik looks like it doesnt trigger, but when I manually hold something iron to it when homing z it triggers. Also when I manual level the bed and check the endstops it also says its triggered....

Upgraded my toolhead on RR3.1 and the printer has gone full stupid.

Gong to the commissioning steps and it seems to "home" okay but when I run z-tilt, it's making awful noises almost like I have a stepper backwards. I have checked all the cables, and I am at a loss as to what could be the difference between the two. Also sometimes, when trying the z tilt, the console shows no trigger after full movement, but the pinda is way off the plate either forward or off to the side. Now I did have the controller fan off, is it possible I nuked a driver?...
Solution:
Come to find out some of the drivers were bad, I did have the bed crash into the nozzle while not paying the required amount of attention

metal "klunking" noise and seemingly loosing steps

I wanted to print the skew calibration test and in the beginning it went well but after like a minute I startet ro hear some metal "klunking" sound seemingly coming from the linear rails and it also seems like it lost a few steps. I have no clue what happened because the initial Z offset calibration print went without any problems. I have no idea what could have caused this other than a problem with the linear rails so I think its more fitting here than in fix-my-print.
No description

skipping A and B's

Im working on getting RatOS running on my 2.4. I am running LDO 42STH48-2804AH's for the A and B. Those steppers are not in the setup wizard so I picked the 2504's. But Im still losing steps in "Performance Mode". Does anyone know if there is a way to fix this without replacing these steppers? I know they are not the "Optimal" steppers but they are very good steppers.

Bed level issue - wave in my bed mesh and copy / mirror prints on T1 result in waaaaaay to low z

Hello. I believe I have an issue with my stock bed having a wave in it. Below see the images of the hot and cold bed meshes. This results in mirror and copy prints on T1 having waaaay to low of a z offset and making mirror / copy unusable. Any and all help would be appreciated. I think I might need a new bed.

Issues with Dragon HF

A while ago, I had a clog in my Dragon HF hotend. I was unable to clear the clog, so I pulled the hotend apart and got it out that way. I suspect the clog had occured in the heatbreak. After clearing the clog and reattachting my heatbreak, I had a filament leak where the heatbreak attaches to the heatblock, I suspect I didn't tighten the heatbreak well enough. So I cleaned everything, reassembled everything and printed a benchy, wich went fine. Now at the next print, it seems (I'm not actually sure) like filament has leaked again but this time from the nozzle sides (which has been properly hot tightend). I'm not sure what could be wrong now? My print detachted and on inspection there was a filament blob under the silicone sock, which leads me to believe there was a leak at the nozzle. When cleaning the block after the first leak, I used a metal pick to clean up the threads where the nozzle and heatbreak screw into. Might I have damaged them in this way, causing a leak? Do I just stop bothering and order a new hotend?...