Toolboard shutdown: "ADC out of range" after changing nozzle
I removed my nozzle today to switch from .6 to .4 and as soon as the nozzle came loose, klipper immediately shut down due to not heating as intended. Upon installation of the new nozzle and a firmware restart, klipper throws this error. I've been printing fine with this exact setup for months with no issue. My last print was Thursday of last week and it was flawless.
I have an EBB42 v1.2, Rapido UHF, PT1000, crimped connections, and have double checked that everything is tight. The jumper for the PT100 on the toolboard is working as it displays two very different numbers when removed. The only thing I've done today other than change the nozzle was to update everything available from the machine tab, which gave me problems as well like breaking the RatOS Git link or something, but I resolved that through manually updating in the right order. I also tried reflashing the toolboard through the configurator
I tried changing the value of the pullup resistor like I saw in a recent help post to no avail. Don't know what to look for or how I managed to brick the printer by changing a nozzle. Any help would be amazing, happy Monday!
Solution:Jump to solution
Just wanted to update this, the new toolboard arrived yesterday and I was able to install this morning. Ran the configurator to flash the new toolboard, reassembled and everything is working as should. 100% somehow fried/damaged the previous board by changing a nozzle :chefkiss:
61 Replies
Show us the exact error and include the reported temps.
This is the error message I keep getting. Included Klippy log and current printer.cfg like I should have done the first time
Yesterday before I left work for the evening, I tried to use the original heater that came with my rapido the 104NT (I bought the PT1000 as an upgrade) and was getting the same type of error but with different temperature ranges. I made sure to rerun the configurator and remove the jumper on the EBB42, as well as adjust the DIP switches when I tested the 104NT. I know this one worked as well before I removed it
So at room temp that you're reading negative 250 degrees. That strongly points to a break in the wire. Check your thermistor from hotend to toolboard carefully.
Having tried both thermistors and getting similar errors, the only thing in common is this wire. It looks like I made a poor crimp on one of the wires but it's still in tact and fully seated. I can't find any breaks or anything abnormal. Still weird cause I never touched any of the wires to change the nozzle.
I will try redoing this wire, but sadly I didn't bring my crimping kit to work this morning, so it will have to wait until tomorrow
Do you get the same measurement if you leave the thermistor disconnected?
No, very different
Ah, so the cable actually has a short, not an open
so there's a break I'm not seeing?
or the crimp is really that bad and finally gave out after a few months?
My electrical knowledge is very limited, 95% of what I know (which isn't much) was learned through this discord channel and the build guides
Right.
A thermistor is just a fancy variable resistor. It changes its resistance with temperature. The toolboard is measuring that resistance, doing some math, and figuring out the temp.
So when you connect it you can either have zero resistance (something is shorted), infinite resistance (something is broken/disconnected), or a resistance in the middle that should correspond to a sensible temp.
why such a short extension?
also, what kind of wiring did you use? It's important to get wire that is rated for movement for anything on the toolhead since it gets so much vibration. Otherwise it is easy to get an internal break and that causes all sorts of weird issues
If I remember correctly, the short extension is the original wire included with my Rapido 1 UHF, it was longer to run to the octopus before I had a toolboard. I shortened it when I installed the toolboard and microlight. I suppose it's my poor crimping job on that one wire, that's the only reason both thermistors would throw an error. I haven't added any new wire associated with the hotend
can the Rapido not read the toolboard directly?
I'll redo the crimp tomorrow morning when I have my tools and see if that works. When I tested the original 104NT thermistor yesterday the temp wasn't reading -250 like the PT1000, but it still wasn't correct, sitting at 140 while room temp
you need to use the configurator and change the sensor type to 104NT. Looking at the klippy log it is still
sensor_type = PT1000 and I don't see it overridden in your printer.cfgI changed it back this morning when i uploaded the logs. I did go through the process of using the configurator yesterday when I tested the 104NT. I can go through that process again and upload new logs for the 104NT if needed.
and it still read 140 at room temp after you changed it in the configurator?
Just installed the 104NT again and ran the configurator. Made sure to remove the jumper on the toolboard and adjusted the DIP switches, got these logs. No error, but currently sitting at 119 degrees while room temp
there are two 104NT
"ATC Semitec 104GT-2", "ATC Semitec 104NT-4-R025H42G"mine has a -4 so i picked that one
ok
the dip switches are only for the pt1000
are you following the wiring guide for the 104NT?
https://os.ratrig.com/docs/toolboards/btt/ebb-42-12
I had the DIP switches for the PT1000 according to this. for the 104NT I just tried the DIP switches in all on, all off, and the 2-line pt100. All 3 are still reading temps between 120 and 140. I have the toolboard wired according to the doc, using TH0
right, those dip switches do nothing. they only affect that 4 pin port labelled PT100 in the image
ok, then I will completely ignore the DIP switches from now on cause that 4 pin is not used 😆 one variable gone
I was unsure of the wording of that, so it was extra precaution to set the DIP to PT1000 when I installed the thermistor and toolboard
can you set the pullup resistance in the configurator?
I haven't used 2.1 enough to know
Doesn't look like it? I can do it through through printer.cfg though right, I tried the 2200 and 4700(?) that I saw in a recent similar thread, neither worked for the PT1000 but I havent adjusted the pullup resistance for the 104NT yet
yeah, you might need to also change the pin definition so include the pull-up resistor
something like
you can also first try just adding the pull-up resistor (the ^)
from https://www.klipper3d.org/Config_Reference.html#micro-controller-configuration
add that in your printer.cfg overrides section - btw
Adding that just just gave an error "unknown pin chip name '^toolboard_t0'"
ohh, maybe it is
toolboard_t0:^PA3hmm new error, "Invalid pin description 'toolboard_t0:^PA3' Format is: [chip_name:] pin_name
ok, well looking in ratos i see
pin: ^toolboard_t0:PB9 as an example, so putting the ^ in front should have worked. Can you change back to that and upload the printer.cfg?And what error are you getting now?
I don't see the changes I mentioned above
uh... that's weird
I've saved, restarted firmware, downloaded the cfg file and it's not there on any
nothing is being saved to my printer.cfg
Mainsail when I open my printer.cfg
the results of saving and downloading
But it's still there in mainsail
Sounds like different files
there's only one printer.cfg file though? I have a few older saves but i'm definitely not looking at those
different folder?
root/config
Delete the copy you have on your PC. Try downloading again from mainsail. Do you get the file?
(I'm guessing it is being blocked as an "insecre download" like my chrome does)
I just deleted the randomly-named prior saves, as well all the text logs i've downloaded today. nothing but one printer.cfg file. saved and reset, downloaded the file, still not showing my changes in the download but still showing in mainsail
clean slate
yes chrome tries to block it, but i save anyway
I have saved and restarted firmware multiple times now, made multiple changes to the cfg, downloaded the printer.cfg each time and nothing has changed in the text file
Each one of these comments is a save+restart and a download of the printer.cfg to find nothing
I just saved+restart again from that screen print, and immediately downloaded the file. now magically it's there. I swear I just did this process almost 20 times
I'm so very confused:kekw:
ok, well now that it is downloading correctly - are you getting an error?
yes
currently with that latest cfg
I'm starting to feel like this is more of a problem than a bad crimp...
@miklschmidt any idea? I don't understand why it doesn't like the syntax
I need to get this printer up and running again as soon as possible for work, the first course of action is to redo the crimp that could be bad which I can do tomorrow morning, what would the next be? New toolboard? is it possible I shorted the board itself somehow? It's still registering as connected and working in the configurator. New thermistor? idk why the original 104NT isn't working either. I'm just still at a loss as to what even happened to begin with
I've ordered a new ebb42 toolboard from amazon as well as a new rapido pt1000 heater core from aliexpress. I believe now that it's the toolboard. I connected the pt1000 directly to the octopus pro and added this to my config to bypass the toolboard and call from the octopus. It reads perfectly in line with my bed now only varrying by 0.5 degrees. I should have tried this much earlier
That narrows it down to not the pt1000, did you use the same wiring from it to the octopus as well?
Yes, same wiring setup, I changed nothing. I will still redo the crimp on the adapter when the new toolboard arrives, but that tells me it wasn't my wiring
@tyler634634 please post a debug zip, you prolly saved your configuration without a selected toolboard.
Oooh, you're modifying your sensor pin. Yeah
^ isn't valid on an ADC pin 😄
it's analog, not digital, internal mcu pullup makes no sense
RatOS automatically uses the alternative resistor (which requires a physical jumper on the board) if you select a PT1000, and it very explicitly warns you about it.
It does not use the alternative pullup if you're not using a PT1000 (ie, like a 104NT-4 and thus you should make sure the jumper is removed).Solution
Just wanted to update this, the new toolboard arrived yesterday and I was able to install this morning. Ran the configurator to flash the new toolboard, reassembled and everything is working as should. 100% somehow fried/damaged the previous board by changing a nozzle :chefkiss: