weird pattern on outiside
hello, need help. red part is printed on Vcore3, green is same model, same setting on other klipper machine, patter on red is visible only on outside. what could it be?
Blobs on Perimeters
Hey guys,
Got a problem with blobs on the perimeters and I have no clue where this comes from.
The printer is freshly calibrated for Temp, Flow, PA and Retract.
About my setup:...
Flow Calibration Solid infill holes
Trying to calibrate fast flow while keeping the speed high.
Petg 260 / 80...
Solution:
overgreased the extruder gears and it was getting on the filament
runout triggered on early layers
I have a print that has a fairly sizeable first layer, and have been using 5 solid layers on top and bottom for this print. The print has a strong tendency to clog up the nozzle during these first layers, and I'm trying to figure out why. I've considered:
- overextrusion with a lot of back-pressure from the smooth print bed (EM=0.8)
- issues with the silk filament - I recall that silk filaments tend to clog when there are lots of retractions, and while I've considered overriding the retraction length to 0, the fact is, there aren't very many retractions going on for these solid layers.
Anyone have any thoughts or suggestions?...
Under extrusion on retractions
I've been printing this miniature castle print (thing:7013) for testing and I have what looks like some sort of under extrusion issue with retractions (the right of the windows).
In PrusaSlicer, I've tried both Arachne and classic perimiters, wipe while retracting on/off, a few different retraction settings and speeds, but I can't seem to stop the gaps from appearing. They also show up in the roof corner that has retractions there.
It's like it retracts too early, or isn't overlapping at all....
Solution:
Managed to fix this by adjusting my pressure advance using Ellis' Print Tuning guide and test print rather than the Klipper docs
VCore4 printing Overture Nylon Z-Offset too high.
As I understand the Z-Offset is measured every time I print (by beacon). I had problem that print using Overture Nylon always got off the bed. I then found the Z-Offset was set to 0.069 instead of 0.059. After changing the Z-Offset to 0.059 everything is fine and the print does not lift from the bed.
I'm just guessing here, but maybe the temperature is not high enough to do a proper wipe of the nozzle on the bed.
Nevertheless, does anyone have an idea what to do to fix this on each print without manually changing the z-Offset after the print has started?? ...
Issue with dimensional accuracy on the z axis
I have a model that is 171.45 mm tall, I printed it out of NylonX and after measuring it came out to 167.85 mm.
I'm trying to understand, what could cause this?
I'm not sure I've ever had dimensional issues on the z axis. I did recently switch to RatOS v2.1.0-RC2 on my V-Core 3.1 400; I can't imagine that is the issue. Open to ideas....
Temp tower question
I started this magnificent temp tower from 245 to 260 and they all look the same to me. The filament was dried before running the test. Most settings are the starting prusaslicer settings. Using 20% part cooling enclosed. Oh, ASA material. I have tried with no part cooling and it looked like melted ice cream.
Sensor Equivalent
I have a "Ratig Vcore3.1 500" printer that I built with my own means. I am using Bltouch on this machine, but I am having problems. That's why I want to use the "Rat Rig "SuperPinda" probe by Pepperl & Fuchs (Inductive 5VDC Sensor)" sensor used in the original. However, this product is not available in the country I live in, Turkey, and the process of bringing products from abroad is very difficult for me. So can I use the product whose link I left below instead of this product? Is this the exact same product?
https://www.pepperl-fuchs.com/turkey/tr/classid_143.htm?view=productdetails&prodid=106674#overview
Inductive sensor NBN2,5-8GM35-E1L-Y...
Solution:
Superpinda and RR superpinda are basically the same E&H probe. The SKU may be different due to different connector. I've succesfully ran prusa's superpinda on RR without any issues. There are also no differences between prusa's sensing and RR sensing
Knocking hotend off track
We make multi day prints , of large models and experience that the hotend is knocked over by the nozzle. That obviously causes failure.
This does not occur when printing smaller models, such as benchy.
The picture shows the state of things just prior to a "hit", you can see that blob just waiting ....
These blobs comes from buildup on the nozzle that is deposited. This does not look like a constant buildup, but something that occurs with some time in between. ...
Strange artifact on external perimeter dependent on speed
Hey All!
V-Core 3 with toolhead Rapido 2 UHF (after fixing all screws as they were loose)
I've got a "strange" external perimeter artifact, which is 99% dependent on speed. My basic params are 15000 accel, 300speeds. On those I get what You can see on the top part that is in the picture.
From that I've run couple tests modifying Accels and speeds - lowering accel solved the issue partially, but external perimeter speed solved it....
prints too large
hey i could use a tip 😉 i printed a 20mm^3 test cube which was .55mm too big on x and y. I then increased the rotation distance from 40 to 41.1 (calculated based on the deviation) and got exactly the same result (.55mm too big) when I printed the test again. What would be the next logical step to fix this problem?
Solution:
yay, im back in action, replacement of that damn fuse worked well... I think everything has been said here, calibrating the flow rate has brought improvements. I have now also tried it with another petg without CF, the prints come out with 0.03mm difference which is perfectly acceptable. The problem discussed here is probably due to the filament (petg cf) or the combination of cf filament + cht 0.4 nozzle. I think I can close this here then, thanks again to all involved 😉
First layer problem I cannot identify
Hey, I started up my 3d printer after a while and getting a weird problem I haven't encountered yet.
Do you know why it looks like that/Which settings should I have a look at? My first guess was a pressure advance test and I did change the settings from 0.05 to 0.1 according to the test but that didn't help. Do you have an educated guess for me? 🙂...
Under Extrusion on corners
Hello, I have a newly built V4 Hybrid and the first print is the skew print from the guide. But it seems that on corners I get under extrusion and then things start to peel off. I haev the default PS profile with Prusament PETG, Orbiter 2 and Rapido 0.6 UHF. What could I try to fix this thing please? Thank you in advance
Burn-through in ASA? What causes this failure?
My bridging fails. Holes in side walls (skirt). Also weird filament curling. Using stock ASA settings with pretty slow printing speed. 260C, 105 bed, 25% max cooling. Enclosed printer and preheat for 30 mins.
Flow Issues?
Recently my printer has been having a behavior that I would associate with flow. Any short movements and the printer behaves perfectly but as the movements get longer, it's as if the nozzle is not able to keep up the flow rate necessary to lay down the bead of plastic. A tiny print comes out just fine but larger prints that require long movements have massive issues.
I am printing usually at 200-250mm/s at 7000 mm/s/s with Overture PLA Professional. All filament is stored in a dehumidifier chamber.
Ratrig Vcore 3.0 400mm with Mosquito hotend and orbiter 1.5...
Outside perimeter has reduces flow? seams between flow change look like crap
volumetric flow in first picture. What setting do i change to increase flow and experiment with this. (orca slicer)
I dont understand how flow can drop like this, while speed stays the same. (0,6 nozzle and speed 120 for outer perimeter and 200mm/s for infill)...
prime line keeps digging
The print works fine, however at the beginning the prime line keeps digging into my bed. First layers are perfect.
PETG build-up on my nozzle
Hi, does anyone know of any configuration to prevent plastic deposits from forming in the nozzle (build-up on my nozzle) that then fall into the print when printing with PETG?
I use Polimaker poly PETG
at 240C
.94 extrusion extrusion multiplier
layer fan off because there are a lot of pieces and they have enough time to cool down on their own....
Help
I have done almost every calibration 5-10 times. Almost used the entire spool to calibrate. Everything was working great but on compounded curves like shown it started to show these random gaps on the surface.
The random line at the bottom it was because of me after pausing the machine
The only thing I can think of is the material. But why are they grouped in the same location? My EM should be good....