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RRCRat Rig Community [Unofficial]
Created by NastyStew on 6/21/2024 in #fix-my-printer
Auto levelling problem
What printer, z-probe and firmware are you using?
33 replies
RRCRat Rig Community [Unofficial]
Created by WarbossGork on 6/18/2024 in #fix-my-print
Reverse elephant foot
Are you able to share what the model is supposed to look like? It looks like the walls are also tapered inward toward the top, but maybe that is just distortion in the photo. My first guess would be that the extrusion multiplier is too high, which would make the top solid layers bulge out, as there are no longer any gaps in the infill where the excess material could go. At the moment however, that is just a vague guess, if you could share a photo of the top of the print and your slicer project as a .3mf file I might be able to give a better recommendation.
6 replies
RRCRat Rig Community [Unofficial]
Created by Skilless on 6/14/2024 in #fix-my-printer
wifi module
https://discord.com/channels/582187371529764864/1244660915618713663 Have a look here, basically the network tab in klipperscreen does not work in RatOS because it requires NetworkManager and RatOS does not support NetworkManager. If you scroll back in #ratos-development by ~2 weeks there was a lot of discussion about this there aswell.
4 replies
RRCRat Rig Community [Unofficial]
Created by fargo on 5/26/2024 in #fix-my-print
Internal bridging issues
Cura has a setting called "Infill wall count" that might help here, you could also try and see if adjusting the infill overalp helps. I am not sure about prusa/super slicer but in orca and bambu studio there don´t seem to be any settings that would help here. Personally I would look into why the edges are curling (print temperature, cooling, drafts, etc.), as most printers should be capable of printing the internal bridges as they are. That is probably also why most slicers don´t include a setting for adjusting this.
2 replies
RRCRat Rig Community [Unofficial]
Created by mavi - ilezirabbit on 5/13/2024 in #fix-my-print
Stringing Isue
In that case I would try with 0.1mm intervals starting at 1mm, there should be a point between where it clogs and where you get stringing. But for a direct drive extruder this range is usually quite small. Otherwise you could also try varying your retraction speed while keeping the distance at 1mm. Another thing you could try is reducing your temperature. I haven’t used esun PLA but for most PLAs 205 should be fine, so this isn’t the first thing I would try. Then again both stringing and pla clogging can be caused by printing too hot.
5 replies
RRCRat Rig Community [Unofficial]
Created by CookieJunky on 5/21/2024 in #fix-my-print
Ring on my hand ring on my print
As far as trivial things go, have you made sure that one of the grub screws on each timing pulley is tightened against the flat side of the stepper motor shaft and that all grub screws are tight? Otherwise I would suggest posting your input sharper graphs in #fix-my-resonance.
4 replies
RRCRat Rig Community [Unofficial]
Created by thenaimis on 5/21/2024 in #fix-my-print
support tuning for Bender
The ideal solution would be an IDEX/MMU system with soluble support material, but I am guessing you don´t have access to that. However, even in that case it should still be possible to tune some of the support settings to make the bottom surface look better. Personally I don´t use a lot of supports, but this guide gives a good overview of some of the settings you could try tuning: https://www.instructables.com/Best-Support-Settings-for-3D-Printing/
5 replies
RRCRat Rig Community [Unofficial]
Created by mavi - ilezirabbit on 5/13/2024 in #fix-my-print
Stringing Isue
I would try using a retraction tower to find the ideal retraction value for your printer. There is an auto tower generator plugin for cura that will create a retraction tower and automatically change the retraction settings for each value: https://marketplace.ultimaker.com/app/cura/plugins/Kartchnb/AutoTowersGenerator I would start with a tower with 1mm increments and from there go all the way down to a tower with 0.1mm increments to find the correct value.
5 replies
RRCRat Rig Community [Unofficial]
Created by Raymond on 4/19/2024 in #fix-my-print
Seam causing issues
Sorry that you had to wait so long for a response. I would try calibrating the retraction setings for the RatRig, especially for flexible materials they can be quite finicky. And unless you have modded your CR-10 it should have a bowden extruder, which requires vastly different retraction values than the direct drive extruder on your RatRig.
5 replies
RRCRat Rig Community [Unofficial]
Created by MONSOONO on 4/26/2024 in #fix-my-print
Terrible ABS Bridges on Orca Slicer
Are you able to save your slicer project as a 3MF file so that we can have a look at the settings? Otherwise I would suggest playing around with the color scheme in the slicer preview and comparing things like speed, flow rate, fan speed, etc. to see if you can spot any differences on the bridges between the two slicers. Then you can try and figure out which settings are causing those differences.
14 replies
RRCRat Rig Community [Unofficial]
Created by gearzgt on 4/26/2024 in #fix-my-print
Anyone have an idea why this extrusion multiplier test looks so bad/weird overall?
Yes, unfortunately a lot of tests require other things to be correctly calibrated first, before they give meaningful results. Try following this guide, it is organized so that none of the tests depend on things that haven´t been calibrated yet: https://ellis3dp.com/Print-Tuning-Guide/ With regards to your test the intervals are too large to draw any meaningful conclusions. As recommended in the guide I would suggest you try again with a range of 90 - 105% in 1 or 2% intervals.
2 replies
RRCRat Rig Community [Unofficial]
Created by eeromarine on 4/30/2024 in #fix-my-print
what should I do… polymaker pla warping… noob here
There are a few things that can cause warping like that. It is hard to tell from the photo but it looks like you have a bit of elephants foot, so you might need to adjust your z.offset a bit. Also you want to make sure that there are no air drafts in your room (open windows, doors, etc.) as they can cause the print to cool down to fast, which results in warping. If the printer is enclosed this should not be an issue. If that does not work you want to look at increasing your bed adhesion by cleaning your bed and if necessary using a brim to hold the corners down. You should not need to turn your fan off past the first couple of layers for PLA. https://ellis3dp.com/Print-Tuning-Guide/articles/first_layer_squish.html
6 replies
RRCRat Rig Community [Unofficial]
Created by risson on 4/6/2024 in #fix-my-printer
Extruder skipping, extruder motor overheating?
If you have another motor lying around I would try swapping it, as it should not get hot when idling unless you have set a very high hold current.
7 replies
RRCRat Rig Community [Unofficial]
Created by truckdoor on 3/27/2024 in #fix-my-print
Bendy corners on the enclosure magnet frames in ABS enclosed
If you want to avoid using a brim, you will probably need to increase the chamber temperature in your enclosure. The easiest way to do that is to heat soak your enclosure by pre-heating your bed for about an hour. You should be able to abuse the thermistor in your hotend to measure the chamber temperature, so you can see how long it takes for the temperature to stop rising. The more elegant solution would be to install a chamber heater and a dedicated thermistor to measure the chamber temperature.
18 replies
RRCRat Rig Community [Unofficial]
Created by truckdoor on 3/27/2024 in #fix-my-print
Bendy corners on the enclosure magnet frames in ABS enclosed
Have you tried using a brim? On parts that like to warp that is usually a good way of keeping the corners pulled down.
18 replies
RRCRat Rig Community [Unofficial]
Created by Snow on 3/23/2024 in #fix-my-printer
Extruder skipping
In the case where it is skipping steps even without a nozzle the only thing to check for would be that there are no obstructions in the hotend. So if you can slide filament through the hotend without any issues it should be fine.
23 replies
RRCRat Rig Community [Unofficial]
Created by Snow on 3/23/2024 in #fix-my-printer
Extruder skipping
I mean if you are using the RatOS defaults that should be fine, then again I have to admit I am more of a Duet/RRF guy, so I don´t know too much about Klipper and the Octopus Boards. I would certainly try using one of the sockets that previously worked for another motor just so that you can rule out that there is something wrong with the socket. I haven´t personally tried wrestling an extruder yet and unfortunately I don´t have a printer here at the moment, but according to this the extruder should pull with an equivalent force of about 6kg: https://www.orbiterprojects.com/a-benchmark-of-extruders/. So, if you attach a 6kg weight to a piece of filament, I guess it should be able to lift that.
23 replies
RRCRat Rig Community [Unofficial]
Created by Snow on 3/23/2024 in #fix-my-printer
Extruder skipping
In that case I would say it is most probably not the power supply as that should be affecting all motors equally. I am guessing you probably don´t have an oscilloscope to check if it is emitting any noise on the 24V rail? When you swapped the sockets, was that a socket that was previously used by another motor, because in that case I also have a hard time believing that there is something wrong with the mainboard either. I know you said you redid the entire software, but is there any chance there is something wrong with the configuration for the extruder motor, maybe microstepping or the sense resistor or something?
23 replies
RRCRat Rig Community [Unofficial]
Created by Snow on 3/23/2024 in #fix-my-printer
Extruder skipping
Hmm, that is really weird, if only the extruder motor is not working, but it is not the socket, motor, driver or wiring. Do the other motors all still work without any problems?
23 replies