973 Replies
This reads like a Parli debate Kritik
@thegoodmorningman has some killer kapital denim heās been showing around recently
I love my Iron Hearts
Personally, Iām pro-denim. I think it is good.
I can get behind this
Posted in #Kapital
Someone in an outfit feedback thread said dark slim cuffed raw denim can look dated. Agree or disagree?
yeah it definitely can, slim fit raws that never saw a tailor or harder work than sitting at a desk were the halmark of an era
If you're not changing tires in your raw denim, you're not doing it right.
Those didnāt send last night
Agree
I think a tapered cut in general looks pretty dated
Personal example
Agree, sadly my Rogue Territoryās have been sitting in the closet for awhile now in favor of my LVC 1947 501s. Straight cut is so much better for me
Do y'all hem your denim and if so do y'all go to your tailor/dry cleaners or put the effort in to get it chain stitched? I just bought some Drake's denim in the archive same with an extra 5" in the inseam that I'll need to figure out what to do with
My last two pairs I got hemmed by the store I bought them from. Iāve had denim hemmed before by my tailor without a problem. I donāt personally care if they get a chain stitch.
Iāve either sent main to railcar or had it hemmed by the seller
If the store doesnāt offer chain stitch in house Iāll take it to Self Edge since thereās one near me. That said, mailing to Railcar is a good option too if you donāt have a place nearby that does it
Thanks - good to know about railcar!
Weird post, guy
Idk, it seems like Karl really hasnāt adapted his fits beyond the mid 2010s slim phase. On one hand, I appreciate RGT for sticking to its aesthetic, because there are enough brands with different fits. On the other hand, it feels like theyāre leaving money on the table. Can you imagine how well wider leg RGT fits would sell?
I only just got the reference lmao
still knew it was shitposting though
Lol I was making a reference too. āWeird Guyā? I knew it was shitposting but I donāt know the source.
Hi, I purchased the '54 501s (Levi's Premium, not LVC) and they came with small intentional tears that I didn't notice on the online photo. Are there ways to repair or patch intentional tears? Thank you for any help!
By the way, aside from the tears and my newbie difficulty in buttoning them, they seem like a great pair of jeans to get on sale (I paid $70). I got them in the Bright Light pattern: https://www.levi.com/US/en_US/clothing/men/jeans/straight/501-54-original-fit-mens-jeans/p/A46770006
501Ā® '54 Original Fit Men's Jeans - Light Wash | Levi'sĀ® US
Close your eyes. Think ājeans.ā now open. They were 501 originalsĀ®, right? With a classic straight leg and iconic styling, theyāre literally the blueprint for every ...
Just return them lol
Spend like 40-50 more and get a Japanese reproduction thatās better than Leviās in every way
I appreciate the help! Some google searching of brands led me to find TCB but their 50s reproduction has tears too haha: https://tcbjeans.myshopify.com/products/tcb-50s-jeans-one-wash
TCB JEANS
TCB 50's Jeans/ One-Wash
Fabricļ¼Approx.13.5oz Zimbabwe Cotton 100%Detailsļ¼Hand-made paper patchThreadsļ¼Sewing thread 100% cotton (Thread Color:4 different/ Yarn count: 5 kinds)Proudly Designed and Made In Kojima, JAPAN *50's Jeans run smaller than jeans from any other brands so be sure to check the measurements on the size chart.Ā TCB started
Any other brands recommended at TCB's price point?
thank you
yeah that's another issue with TCB, they don't have one with similar colors to the one I got (wanted to get light colored jeans to go with certain shirts, already have a pair of mid blue 505s). I do need to get an indigo pair of jeans as well however
oh I'm dumb, you mean they don't have tears new
perhaps I'll stick with the Levi's for my light wash jeans then, the tears were very minimal from what I remember. I'm waiting for 30 length ones to arrive to my house as Levi's tailor said the 32 they had on hand was too long
I imagine 3sixteen is well recommended here for raw selvedge? I could wait for the CS-100x to come on sale and try them on in store
thank you! A bit slim is alright with me as long as it still falls within being a classic straight fit and the rise is mid to high (higher rise seems cool to me)
thank you, really appreciate it!
Edwin are still a more budget friendly option
TCB are usually pretty well priced on Denimio. I'm not a fan of the Edwin painted pockets
But some people like it
Sugar Cane 1947 from Denimio or Hinoya is also a good budget option
Those sugar canes are cool
I think my next pair will be the TCB30s I'm liking the wider fit on them and the repro details like the back cinch
TCB 30s are dope. Back cinch is a nice detail
I love my sugar cane hawaii jeans
My Kapital Century denim makes me wish that back cinches never went out of fashion. Theyāre so practical; itās like having a belt without a belt
What are your guysā go to pairs nowadays? I just got the PBJ double indigo extra slub 13oz stretch, so Iām excited to wear those. Got a bunch of pairs on the backburner too from RGT and N&F.
warehouse duck digger in banner denim
Iām considering getting my first pair of raw denim in the near-ish future, and I wanted to make sure I understood what Iām getting into. Iāve read that the dye can transfer onto furniture, clothes, shoes, etc. How long does this last for?
That will entirely depend on which brand you buy. Some are worse than others, the term for it is crocking so I guess if you searched you could probably find something giving some comparisons on how much certain brands will crock
Ok, thatās good to know
Iām looking at Gustin and TCB for reference. Possibly brave star
Crocking usually isnāt that big of a deal, as indigo washes off pretty easily. Doesnāt really show up on much besides white, and Iāve never had anything be permanently stained.
Donāt get gustin
Damn I want these:
https://www.instagram.com/p/CvxWCWEO-1g/?igshid=MzRlODBiNWFlZA==
Definitely depends on the brand but something you could look out for is once washed denim as opposed to raw. The initial wash removes most excess dye. Crocking can still be an issue but much less so compared to raw.
I got my grandpa some raw jeans a couple years back - he threw them away when they left indigo on his car's seat leather š
Those are really tight
I'd recommend Unbranded over either of these. Better quality, same price range. Sister brand to Naked & Famous.
yes, I had seen TCB had a one wash option and was already considering that hoping to get more reliable sizing
I would recommend TCB over N&F or Unbranded just on account of patterning. Their rises and thigh dimensions can leave much to be desired
A lot/most things from Denimio will be one wash or offer one wash vs no wash. At least for the jeans I've looked at
Unless you can be bothered to look on yahoo japan I think Denimio usually has the best price for Japanese brands that I've seen
But you want to be confident in the cut/sizing of what you are buying
Rodeo Pine is slightly better. Also, their shipping is free and arrives in like, one or two days to the US, which is just insane.
Denimio is great though
Lol I was just about to suggest Rodeo Pine. Hinoya and Okayama Denim are also worth looking at
Hadn't heard of Rodeo Pine, will be wasting far to much time looking at this
Yeah this is fair, their cuts are fairly dated now
All those Japanese companies typically get their stock way earlier than American retailers in addition to the better prices. Denimio Hinoya and Rodeo will also hold on to rare stock for longer because they donāt advertise well.
To be fair, any Japanese repro brand also has a dated cut š
time is a flat circle
we're coming back round
Lol very true, I guess I just meant not on trend
Where's that fashion is cyclical copy pasta
Iām wearing tapered jeans right now and Iām loathe to get rid of them because I love the fabric, but I truly donāt think Iāll go back to tapered or slim fit when it comes back around. Straight and wide leg pants are just a revelation comfort wise
Opposite for me lol while Iāve never liked Skinny jeans Iām still rocking my fitted tapereds because I tried some straight fit jeans recently not even relaxed or loose just straight and the extra flowy fabric on my calves and ankles is just so uncomfortable to me
Iāve embraced the flow. If anything, Iāve only craved even wider as of late
Iāve been pulling out my wider fits lately primarily because itās been so hot. Those wider legs are a lifesaver in really hot weather, and they create a better silhouette with oversized tops, which unsurprisingly are also great in hot weather. I like the look of my more tapered pants with my boots and sneakers though, so when it cools down Iāll probably switch back.
I had my eye on TCB 50s for a while but ended up getting a deal on some Made in USA Sugar Cane 1947s.
I'm intrigued by the Naked & Famous True Guy as a straight leg option but there's really no reason to go with them over a brand like TCB unless you're getting massive discount.
N&F prices crazy these days
ISO: black wax, 10ā+ rise, slim denim.
28in waists are often too roomy with rise above 8ā
Why canāt I find Leviās type 1 jacket length anywhere š¤¬ they have shoulder, chest, and sleeve measurements but not length
What size? I have a Levi's Premium Type 1 in L
Hot soaked it once but I can measure the length if you want.
Was honestly looking at either small or medium as what I can find online says they run massive?
Iām 5ā10 ~165 usually wear a medium in everything
The fit is generally bigger than a Type III but I went true to size. The L is around 25-26" long
im 5'8/5'9 like 180ish when this pic was taken (got fatter since)
the only really oversized thing for me is the sleeves are crazy long (i have them cuffed/rolled back one here)
@xmdot where are those carpenter pants from?
Anyone know how the sugar hill 1947 jeans fit? I take either size 28 or 29 waist, Levi's 505 I'm a 29 but j crew's relaxed fit chinos were too big in 29
Uniqlo!
cool, i hope they'll make them again
That L does look quite good on you, I wonder how much it shrunk with the wash.. would you mind measuring the length when you get the chance? I have another denim jacket that measures almost exact in shoulders sleeve and width to the M but yeah canāt get a length measurement on it. Iād like it a little more cropped compared since I have weirdly long torso and short legs lol
Pulled tight post-soak the length on the back not including collar is 25.5
with the fit also keep in mind the type 1 has a cinch in the back so you can adjust it a bit
high rise, roomy seat and straight leg.
much moreso than 505 imo
oh wait i thought you said sugar cane'
i don't know wtf sugar hill is
@frm3 some of the Japanese brands like TCB, Strike Gold will have reproductions of Levi's type 1 jackets if the length doesn't work out for you
yeah, i wouldn't even bother with levi's lol
Just as an example here's a strike gold type 1
https://www.thosethatknow.co.uk/shop/the-strike-gold-50s-1st-15oz-denim-jacket/
Those That Know
The Strike Gold 50S-1st 15oz Denim Jacket
Shop for The Strike Gold 50S-1st 15oz Denim Jacket at Those That Know. Priority worldwide shipping available.
TCB JEANS
ā Pre-orderā S40's Jacket
ā This is a pre-order page for S40's Jacket.Ā Expected Delivery: the end of AugustĀ ~ mid SepĀ 2023 Ā *We stopped offering raw jeans or jackets. Ā We've finally made something we had the biggest expectations about. When Hajime Inoue started TCB back in 2012, he was more fond of the standard vintages like 1955 model, 66 mod
Wow my regular run of the mill type 3 Levi's trucker from macys is 27" from bottom of collar seam to bottom of jacket (back)
These are like double the price tho š
Yep they are pricey, it's fine if that's not something you would want to spend. TCB stuff would usually be cheaper if you looked on Denimio, Okayama Denim, Rodeo Japan Pine
Lots of options on those sites and they will have size charts that should list the length
I should have said though, if you like the Levi's jacket and the size works for you then absolutely go with that one. You're the one who's wearing it and I'm just nerding out over Japanese denim
Iāll say that the premium type 1 is surprisingly nice for the price. Selvedge and surprisingly slubby. Iād rather have the TCB but itās closer than Iād have thought
@daddyneedsadrink no yeah, I meant sugarcane my bad š
Thanks so much
i have 1957s, they're teh made in usa ones so idc if sizing is consistent but i had to size up one
@xmdot interesting, thank you. I may have to look for a store in nyc where I can try them on
If you're comparing to another pair that fits that helps too, Denimio, Self-Edge etc have great measurements
Thank you!
Is their any downside to getting 12 oz sugar canes instead of the 14 oz?
No
Is $126 a fare price for a 70s lee 101j trucker jacket?
Is that the blanket version or unlined? Depending on the condition it's probably a good deal for the former or a bit expensive for the latter.
eBay
VINTAGE 1970s LEE 101-J DENIM TRUCKER JACKET MADE USA BLUE MEN'S SI...
Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for VINTAGE 1970s LEE 101-J DENIM TRUCKER JACKET MADE USA BLUE MEN'S SIZE 34 37x21.5 at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!
i don't see a lining? thank you for the help!
Question about Levi's STF - I bought my regular size and have been wearing for ~4 months. If I do a cold tub soak, will I be able to wash them later in the machine on cold without any shrinkage?
I have a pair of Oni's that are unsanforized but were one wash when I got them. They stretched out a decent amount from wear, did the first wash in the machine at 30c and they shrank back down but have stretched out again
Doesn't directly answer your question but hopefully helps a little
In my experience the waist wont shrink much and if it does it usually stretches back out after a couple wears. The big shrinking point is likely to be length. They will still shrink if they are immersed in water regardless of temp from my experience. hot water will just exacerbate the shrinking a bit more
On my 2nd pair of stf's in the last 2 years and I lost about 2-3 inches in inseam each time I did the first wash
holy shit a reseller with sane prices??
Does anyone have any experience with TCB denim? Specifically how much stretch in the waist for the one wash?
this might be a weird question but, why is there so much cheap second hand Acne Denim about, when they retail for a lot?
I see loads for like 30-40 gbp which is Wrangler money
Same thing is true of APC itās really weird, tons and tons of brand new pairs of jeans for like a third or less of retail
Got to handle some Kapital no9 at Standard & Strange. V fun
Which color is that?
Oh god idk. I donāt think I took a pic either
Thatās okay haha I looked it up, itās like a dark indigo
Looks almost black
Thatās the mud dyed one right?
Was definitely kinda dark but I wouldnāt say black at all? More like a muddy indigo if anything
Oh yeah you right
Just bad lighting on some of the pics
That one fades crazy iirc
Does anyone have recommendations for a black high rise straight fit selvedge? Preferably easy to get in Europe. I've mostly been able to find either high rise tapered or mid rise straights
budget?
how much are you willing to spend šø
I guess around 300 euro
Have been looking at these, but they're mid rise https://www.ironhearteu.com/bottoms/ih-634s-142od.html
You will be able to get something for a lot less than ironheart prices
I will drop some suggestions
https://www.burgundschild.com/en/jeans/straight-leg/sc41470-type-iii-13oz-black-slim-fit - also mid-rise though
Burg & Schild
SC41470 "Type III" 13oz Black Slim Fit
The black "SC41470 Type III" is an updated version of the classic "1947" and following "1947 Type II" model from Sugar Cane. It brings the classic details of the jeans from the late 1940s, packaged in a contemporary slim fit silhouette...
Indigofera Kirk
Denimio.com | Momotaro Jeans, ONI DENIM, Samurai Jeans & Studio D'A...
The largest and most trusted retailer of premium Japanese denim brands. Free worldwide shipping!
Okayama Denim
Okayama Denim
Okayama Denim is a web store specializing in Japanese Selvege denim, all of which is produced in the famed denim manufacturing prefecture of Okayama.
you will usually find better prices than buying from places outside Japan
there are other sites but I can't remember them at the moment
Thanks, will check it out
But... muh Japanese motorcycle culture
There's an insane markup on IH outside of Japan, like those jeans are probably around 200 euro to buy in Japan. Only reason I would avoid them
Browsed around a bit and now I'm in love with Oni, which is even more expensive than Iron Heart
for what it's worth i find Oni to be way nicer. They use really interesting denim whereas I find Iron Heart's whole thing is mostly just "really heavy denim"
I haven't ever seen Oni more expensive than IH either, unless you are finding Oni from UK/European stores reselling it
Hinoya.shop, Denimio etc usually have Oni in the around Ā£150-170 range which is considerably less than you will pay for Iron Heart
Sayin all this there's nothing wrong with Nudie or Naked & Famous unless you ask some japan jeans only snobs
Oh yeah you're right, Denimio is much cheaper than where I was looking. Thanks
never really understood what would be wrong with it, apart from:
the issue now is whatever you like will inevitably be out of stock lmao
Yes, that was the case at the more expensive shops as well
This one has a launch in 3 days https://redcastheritage.com/collections/oni-denim
Redcast Heritage Co.
ONI Denim
The name of this iconic Japanese brand comes from the word ONI (Devil) and from the first thing many of us said the first time we touched its famous āsecret denimā: āThis denim is slubby like the devilā. Denimheads from around the world are fascinated by the incredibly slubby textures, irregular weave and low tension..
reasonable prices
tell that to my girlfriend please
How do these Japanese brands get away with smallest size being 29
Anyone ever try ALDās denim? https://www.aimeleondore.com/products/ald-straight-fit-denim-4
Looking for a pair of denim with a slight taper in a similar medium wash without factory fades. I usually have to get denim hemmed to a 28ā or 29ā inseam which ends up making a lot of denim look too wide at the ankle for me. The Naked and Famous Easy Guys fit pretty great for me after a hem.
AimƩ Leon Dore
ALD Straight Fit Denim at AimeLeonDore.com
Brand tax cannot be worth it tbh
Those look exactly like any pair of jeans you could get in the mall, and theyāre not even selvedge.
They look like my mid blue 505s which I got for $50
I mean it's probably somewhat better construction but I don't see how it's worth it
Are japanese jeans totally different in sizing? The high waisted japanese jeans I'm looking at seem smaller in the waist but bigger on the hips than my 501's
All brands are different
Different patterns different cuts different styles
Higher rise jeans would typically be smaller in the waist than lower ones though
And have more room in the hips
Yes the waist is smaller ofc, but on the japanese jeans the waist seems to be even smaller and the hips larger?
Youāll have to be more specific. Japanese denim isnāt the monolith people make it out to be.
I mean itās just two different cuts of jeans
all brand and their cuts are their own. Unless itās a very deliberate repro
And repro 501s wonāt be the same as modern Leviās 501s anyway
For example Levi's 501 size 36: waist 49 cm, hips 59cm. Oni 266sesr waist 45cm, hip 62.5
I guess Iām not sure what the question is
Like is that normal?
Itās like comparing an oversized t shirt and a slim t shirt and saying that the measurements are different
Or are you asking if they will still fit you?
The 266sesr are also unsanf
I guess I am confused by similar fits (high waisted, straight, wide/relaxed) having different ratios between hips and waist. And not sure which one to follow to buy the right fit
It's not the different measurement but the ratio
I think most places are selling them one wash
but make sure the sizes you're looking at are for post wash and not pre
or you're gonna have a bad time
They're one wash
Do you like the fit of your 501s?
best advice I would say is measure your Levi's following this guide
https://www.denimio.com/sizing-guide/
Sizing Guide | Denimio Premium Japanese Denim | Momotaro Jeans, ONI...
Sizing Guide | Denimio Premium Japanese Denim
then compare your measurements to jeans on the Denimio site to see if the sizes will work
You don't have to buy from there but different sellers will measure in different ways so if you follow that guide and use their sizes you will at least know the measurements relate to your Levi's
I do, especially in the top block. They could be a bit wider downwards though
Alright, thanks, will do. The hip isn't included here though
The others are the same as I measured
I guess the most logical thing would be to follow the same size on the waist
If the rise is the same
Are the rises the same?
Yeah that
Bear in mind that those Oni's are 20oz so if any of the measurements are on the close to too small side they might end up feeling too small
There will be a good amount of stretch in them over the first wears though
Good to know. I just used these as an example though
They do make me feel all sorts of nice stuff
I mean
The secret fabric is fab
If the rise wasnāt so wonky on me Iād consider another pair
I have a pair in the 246
very nice and super comfortable once you get past the initial roughness
I feel like the back rise is super tall and the front is real low. So annoying
Mine were like sweat pants
If I were going to get oni jeans it would be the wide straights
Thatās what I figured, worth asking!
It really depends on the brand. When I bought my OrSlow 107s from Blue Owl they were super responsive about sizing questions.
Denimio is great for that too honestly, they'll get back to you super fast
Itās with great regret that I inform you that my IH 888s no longer fit me well
This is my problem with a lot of brands. Orslowās back rise needs to be a touch longer imo as they donāt sit where they should given the long front rise.
If youāre open to vintage, Leviās 501xx (or 619 if you want a marginally smaller leg opening) canāt be beat unless selvedge is a must have. Berg and berg, Angloitalian, and Drakeās have what you want but youāll pay a massive premium for what you get.
The Drakeās denim is exactly what I want, maybe Iāll get lucky on an eBay search.
This is the first Iāve heard of the 619, will check, thanks!
Keep an eye on marrkt and grailed too - Iāve snagged three nwot pairs there. I prefer the older made in England version as the newer cut doesnāt work as well for me.
Thoughts/experience with Edwin denim? Currently I could get a pair for around 100 Euro, wondering if I should pull the trigger
Pretty sure they are pretty solid. One of the more original Japanese brands I think
By original I mean they were founded in 1947
not original in terms design etc
made their first jeans in 1961
I had some Edwin selvedge skinnies back in the day and they were pretty nice. Nothing very special fabric or fit wise, but just decent quality for the price
Edwin and Evisu were my gateway to selvedge. Always a special place in my heart for them
I was always put off of Evisu due to the giant white logo on the back of them
I can remember them being everywhere in the early 2000s I think
Iām not really a huge fan of arcuates now, but back in the day I was enamored
Which model are you looking at?
Sometimes I like to do a released hem on a pair of jeans that's just a touch too short
But generally when I raw hem I just let them strings strang
Nah because I like frayed edges and pretending Iām a beautiful Friesian horse frolicking on Dutch fields
This model on zalando: https://www.zalando.pl/edwin-jeansy-slim-fit-kaihara-pure-indigo-ed322g06w-k12.html which I guess is this model on Edwinās website: https://edwin-europe.com/slim-tapered-jeans-kaihara-dark-pure-indigo-rainbow-selvage-13-5oz-100-cotton-blue-unwashed-i030683-01-99
Slim Tapered Jeans
Julius is 184cm tall and is wearing Size 32/32.
Why the slim fit?
I just prefer it š
I have a pair as my go to everyday jeans, well worth 100 euro
mine are a straight fit rainbow selvedge, the denim is good
Bought it, letās hope I picked the right size š¤
So are there any straight fit jeans with a good rise @ll.beansandrice seems like you have purchased a bunch
I'm fine with my Levi's but want something more 
My 888s are p good tho technically more of a mid rise. My 90s Leviās are the best tbh
Sugar Cane 1947, Indigofera Kirk, Tender Co 125, Warehouse Lot 1000, Freewheelers 1947, Dawson Straight, Fullcount 0105
great list
Thereās prolly a lot more, but this is what sprung to my immediate mind. Some of these Iāve owned. Some are on the list of jeans to own someday
I second the Sugar Cane 1947 rec. It is easily my favorite pair of jeans.
TCB 30s another one
There's some from more fashion-focused brands. I might still have links laying around
Ah yes, any jean from Studio Nicholson has a decent rise, Black Horse Lane Atelier, Trophy, and Scott Fraser Collection also have jeans with dope rises, though may be a little wider than desired. Ooe and Conorās Sewing Factory makes very cool jeans but hard to acquire outside Japan.
I think itās prolly the best value straight leg selvedge. Denim is very good for the price point and the fit is superb.
I've been eyeing those as a potential future buy, they are like $150 and they have one wash rather than raw ones
Feeling very comfy in my 505s rn tho lol
The sugar canes I mean
this dude linked quite the deal in q&a tho: https://www.levi.com/US/en_US/clothing/men/jeans/straight/80s-501-z-selvedge-mens-jeans/p/A22310000?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&adpos=&camp=PLA*EC*US*EN*17004636363*PMAX*goog*&gclid=CjwKCAjwu4WoBhBkEiwAojNdXrPXgHtA4wEmDP5UwazVvbJ3Rb9DqWXaHUBWfvEBEkfSeC6hbE-RAxoCr6kQAvD_BwE
80s 501Ā® Z Selvedge Men's Jeans - Dark Wash | Levi'sĀ® US
All the vintage-fit magic. Zero thrift store digging. Our new levi'sĀ® made & craftedĀ® 1980s 501Ā® jeans are based on everyone's archival favorite, famed by big-haired...
would be $111 with the discount
it'd be more ethical to thrift these tho
I might swoop these
15% off this week with one of their codes
my fullcount 1101 are straight leg with a decent rise
freewheelers 601
sugar cane 1955 too
samurai s510
Also a very good list
as you might be able to tell i have too many pants
what's the ideal number of jeans š
N+1
how's edwin vs sugarcane out of curiosity?
I bought the oni wides. I was mistaken on the code tho sorry
But I have been trying to find them in stock and they are sold out everywhere so I pulled the trigger
Been dragging my feet on these vs the fullcount wide for 2-3 months so the impulse buy might have gotten the best of me
One wash is still raw
I didn't know that thank you!
But will one wash still shrink like raw denim when washed?
What you want to key in on is sanforized vs unsanforized. Sanforized you won't get much shrinkage if any, Unsanforized will shrink. One wash usually implies an unsanforized denim has been washed or rinsed to get all the shrinkage out.
That's why it's super helpful that sites like Denimio will often list both the "raw" and "one washed" measurements, but they're still considered Raw.
Also gonna second (third? fourth) 1947s. I have the MiUSA ones but I think the cut is still the same as the regulars and I like that they're actually closer to a 50s cut than an LVC 1947.
Thank you!
not sure where you are, but Sugar Canes are twice the price here
Pretty much identical price for Edwin and Sugar Cane on denimio
oh, thats a much cheaper site than I was looking at
https://www.denimio.com/oni266-sesr-20oz-secret-super-rough-denim-relax-straight.html ah fuck I'm tempted
ONI266-SESR 20oz Secret Super Rough Denim Relax Straight
Not many people know this but the spinning mill that made the yarn for the original secret denim was destroyed in a fire. ONI was able to reproduce most of the texture of the fabric but a certain roughness remained elusive. Until now!
By combining the yarn and weave structure of the Asphalt Denim with with the warp and weft dye of the Secret De...
denimio is the best honestly, and their customer service is always super helpful
ah fuck free shipping as well, you've done me in here
I've ordered from them twice to the UK. Both times I've selected the option at shipping for them to mark it as a 2000yen fabirc sample. Escaped customs charges so far and they arrive in around 48 hours from japan with free shipping 
turns up faster than buying things from retailers in the UK
turns up faster than buying things from retailers in the UKI got hit with small duties when I shipped to Canada but Canada customs is really diligent. And yeah, the shipping was unfathomably fast.
Shipping with denimio was so fast I almost wanted to ask if there was another option "excuse me, my jeans are not such an emergency that they need to be shipped literally across the globe at the fastest speeds possible"
That FedEx flight is happening with or without your jawns haha
That's now I justify it to myself at least
Did they send you tracking numbers in the past. Ordered something last week and don't have order confirmation email yet and now scared it is sold out and about to get my order cancelled
Takes a few days to ship if you didn't pay for the fast shipping option. If you log into your account it should give the order status there
I think it was three or four days from placing the order to shipping on my last one
Maybe check in this week. Since theyāre basically drop shipping they might not actually be able to obtain the jeans you ordered
Dropshipping? I thought they acted as a middle-man for certain pairs but the majority of them they stocked themselves.
Just start a chat with their customer service if youāre worried, theyāre helpful.
I meant to say they will just go to a store and buy the jeans you order and ship them
And in the case of Okayama denim they just have piss poor inventory management and are frequently sold out of things that show as available on their site
Denimio only does that for items labelled as 'proxy' I think?
Yes they did, but I havent ordered since 2020 so my experience might not be relevant
i think i'm ready for my first Good jeans after so many disappointing purchases from levi/uniqlo
i keep hearing Sugar Cane 1947s and I like the look of 'em
where should I buy and how do I know which size is the right for me?
Hinoya usually has the best price but worth checking Denimio as well. Size up one from true waist size
is hinoya best price even with shipping?
Yeah usually
cool
i have a fear of buying these fancy jeans and having them not fit or not liking the loook
I feel like this is just part of the process for a lot of us who are into denim š
Really just gotta nail down your proper measurements and it will make things much easier
Hinoya probably your best bet for now as Denimio have only size 28 listed, I would check as they have some Black Friday deals listed but I didn't look at what they are
Also what elbarto said, find the measuring guide on the site that you intend to buy from and measure a pair of jeans/pants you like the fit of to compare the sizes against the jeans you want to buy
Over break I did a tub soak/first wash on my 501s. They shrunk up pretty much exactly how I wanted and as a bonus they feel even more comfortable now! I'm not sure if you can tell much a difference, but here's the before/after.
Really glad I went with the Pure Blue Japan WSB-019. Fit, material, and slub is incredible. Got it from a chicago company called Mildblend Supply Company
What fit did you go with? I am in love with my WSB 003s
Looks like Roy from ROY Denim was selling some old pieces (may be all gone now). Kind of cool to see that name pop up again
https://roydenim.com/
Site is super super slow though
Thats a name I havent heard in ages
$600 for a pair of denim is steep tho
All sold out
Oh damn. I couldnāt get it to load, didnāt see the $600.
Iāve been trying to bleach a pair of old Uniqlo selvedge that I otherwise wouldnāt be wearing. Tried 3 times with varying quantities - theyāve definitely lightened (not as much as Iād like) but it seems like you really do need to use a LOT š
or let it sit for a long time
Hmm yeah, maybe thatās worth a try at the weekend
Edit: Or now they've definitely lightened now - not BRIGHT but bright enough. I'm happy I'm going to get more use out of a garment that otherwise would've just sat in the wardrobe.
they've definitely lightened now - not BRIGHT but bright enough. I'm happy I'm going to get more use out of a garment that otherwise would've just sat in the wardrobe.what was your full process?
a very unscientific process tbh
just filled up the bathtube with enough water for them to be fully covered, and then added bleach
to begin with I was measuring by capfuls, but by the 3rd/4th attempt I was literally just pouring in bleach and then checking to see if they looked any lighter - and then adding more if it didn't seem like any change occurred. Left them around 2-3 hours each time - rotating every half hour or so
then rinsed them, then washed them a couple of times
Trying to find some good mid-wash denim in a color similar to that of ALDās straight fit but with a higher rise and a slight taper. I like these for the color and lack of distressing.
https://www.aimeleondore.com/products/ald-straight-fit-denim-4
Asketās mid-wash is looking like my best bet. Any other recommendations in a similar fit?
AimƩ Leon Dore
ALD Straight Fit Denim at AimeLeonDore.com
what about Orslow in the 2 year wash?
Kafka Mercantile
107 Slim Fit 2 Year Wash Jean - Washed at Kafka Mercantile
The 107 Ivy Fit 2 Year Wash Jean by orSlow is a slim fit fade out laundered denim. These are a super authentic take on classic Americana. The jeans are crafted in a 13.5 Oz Japanese Denim and feature a classic five pocket set up, white selvedge and twisted right leg. The fit is slim to regular.
- 100% Cotton- 13.5oz Laundered Selvedge Japanese D...
You will be able to find them for less than the price shown there, I just shared that link as an example
Norse projects regular or relaxed denim in "vintage indigo"
Well rise might be about the same
I do like my rinsed OrSlows, might need to keep an eye out.
Didnāt consider Norse Projects, thanks!
They are quite nice. I actually have a pair of the regular jeans size 29, I feel like they are more of a slim straight than straight.
But I sized down from my usual size of 30 so that may be why
I like berg and bergās washed denim, a bit pricey though. Also Borali for a cheaper option in europe
Anyone have experience with Maruni Jeans? There doesnāt seem to be a lot of info online. They seem to be affiliated with Oni Denim (?)
Considering these as good comfy jeans I can wear at home and out Hybrid Regular Tapered Joggers https://www2.hm.com/en_au/productpage.1013317002.html
Hybrid Regular Tapered Joggers https://www2.hm.com/en_au/productpage.1013317006.html
Donāt know if I should go for denim blue or black
I think these look really bad and you would be better off just buying something else not from HM
Sorry if that is harsh ā¤ļø
I think if you want sweat pants you should just buy some sweatpants.
Thatās fair on both counts, just thought itād be nice to have denim style that I can also lounge around in yāknow?
Or maybe I should just look for fun joggers?
I feel Easy Pants (elastic waist, no cuffs at hem) are a better execution than the denim jogger hybrid. And you can get them in a denim fabric if thatās your thing
The next question tho is there something inherently about denim that isnāt comfortable to you? Denimās pretty comfy to lounge about imo
Itās more the heavy structure with a belt mainly. If I wanna lounge I donāt to be dealing with a belt, yāknow?
Btw, link?
Ah my bad, forgot that i shouldnt delete photos
https://www.muji.com/sg/products/cmdty/quick/4550583086961 i was thinking about these Muji ones
I am a fan of Muji
You canāt lounge around in jeans?
Of course I can but not dealing with stiff pants structure and a belt is nicer
I might look at Carhartt and Muji tomorrow to see what works best for me
Anyone know where I can find Oni's 200 cut in the US? I've found some retailers online and they're all out of stock
Blue Beach Denim
ćONI DENIMć ONI200 Low Tension Wide Straight Jeans 15oz
ONI-200 Low Tension Wide Straight Jeans 15oz Desciption ONI200 uses old looms that have been in service for decades to bring classic denim pants similar to the 1950s. Mr. Oishi, the manager, not only specializes in the innovation of special fabrics, but also remains passionate about retro making, and adjusts them throu
Not US but they ship internationally
Haven't seen them in stock anywhere else
Thanks!
You're welcome! Did you get a pair? Interested to see these in a fit haha
Have any of y'all ever used this website? They have a ton of Japanese clothing, including tons of denim, for kinda crazy low prices, low enough I'm worried it is a scam site or something.
https://www.newfashionfinery.com/
99.9% a scam, looks like the same web template all the other dupe sites use when tehy clone a real store
their address appears to not exist
Yeah this looks like they cloned Hinoya
yup
I knew it was too good to be true!
It's remarkable to me that there's enough people lusting after these Japanese brands that it's worth it to try and scam some of them. I figured there's, like, ten of us.
cost is near zero to set these sites up so it still works
Is Assembly Label, Unison, or Article One good choices for jeans?
Personally I have not heard of any of these.
Theyāre Aussie brands/labels
Assembly label is alright. Iād compare it to like Country Road. Decent depending on what youāre after. Never heard of the other two
Have you considered more denim forward brands like Neuw?
I havenāt yet but maybe. My old Country Road black jeans which I wore almost every day for years finally died after getting too many non serviceable holes. So Iām looking for a replacement which can last just as long or longer
Article One is a newish brand from Sydney and Unison used to be called French Connection but itās now Australian owned iirc
Iām getting the sense that youāre after something Aussie focused over say bigger brands like uniqlo or COS?
I owned Neuw black denim probably 4-5 years back and they were good. Fabric was thicker than most other mass market denim. I havenāt handled any of their recent stuff though.
I should probably check out article one out of interest
Yeah Iāve tried a few Uniqlo jeans and didnāt like the shape too much. Also Cos isnāt really a thing here
Sorry assumed youāre in Syd and we definitely have a few COS stores
All g
wranglers are the best jeans
Accidentally cooked the patch on my Sugar Canes on my last wash. Was on handwashing autopilot and put some oxiclean in with the soak.
Jeans look fine though, I'm not super concerned about it tbh
Nah looks good tbh
yeah it mostly just fucked up the dye on it, ill condition the leather a bit because it dried out but it is what it is
Any recommendations on buying selvage for the first time?
If you end up wanting cool Japanese stuff for a decent price, denimio is your friend
Compare sizing charts against jeans you already own that fit how you want
Denimio as said above have a faq on their website showing you how they measure
Others are Hinoya, Okayama Denim and Rodeo Japan Pine Avenue
Make sure you know if what you're buying is completely raw vs one-wash vs sanforized vs washed and how much shrink & stretch it's likely to have as a result.
I usually go for light/faded and black. I have only bought slim fit so I would like to try something different
Did you want vintage or new?
New
Is lightweight selvage a thing?
Yes, some brands make a light weight denim. Usually itās around 11-12oz and might have some polyester to add stretch
Off the top of my head - 3sixteen has made a light weight in the past, N&F and Unbranded make a light weight selvedge.
Does anyone know what brands use Vidalia Mills denim? Iām looking for something similar to the 3sixteen relaxed straight cut.
Iām in Australia and the only two brands I know that have stores here that sell selvage (or selvage styled) is Nudie Jeans and Uniqlo on a technicality
I really like the print on the cuffs here https://tateandyoko.com/collections/naked-and-famous/products/super-guy-kimono-print-selvedge
Tate + Yoko
Super Guy - Kimono Print Selvedge
The Kimono Print Selvedge is a 12.5oz Japanese Selvedge Denim woven on vintage shuttle looms in Okayama, Japan. The exterior warp is indigo rope dyed, giving the denim a deep color that will fade beautifully with wear. On the inside, you'll find a traditional Japanese kimono pattern printed on the weft, adding a touch
As someone who always cuffs my jeans having something interesting to show off would be fun, hence why I am looking at Selvage denim
But the problem is that itās button fly
i love button flys. Unless you have experience with one and know you dont like it, id recommend giving it a try
Selvedge is going to be button fly 9/10 times.
This is a super super skinny cut just FYI. I don't like the print but that's personal so up to you though.
Almost all of my favorite pairs of jeans are button fly. I prefer them over zippers
n&f has a lot of interesting stuff but none of their cuts work very well for me and I end up selling or donating every pair I get
Yeah Iāve tried a few times before and didnāt like it
I also want to go either my usual which slim fit or try something one step above
da skinnies for today
Left Field NYC is the big one that does. The Smokestack cut is the closest to the RS
Cool thanks!
Are Nudie Jeans a good choice for Selvage denim?
There's a Nudie shop in my city
and it's also a repair shop
I'm a fan of nudie stuff. I don't have any jeans from them but I've got a couple pairs of pants and I like them
Don't they have lifetime free repairs?
I believe so yeh
That's pretty cool, especially living near a repair shop
You have to take them to a store in person but that won't be a problem for you loving near one
definitely
Good thing with them having a store near you is you can try on the different cuts and find one that works for you
I'm mainly looking to first replace my old reliable black jeans that lasted 5-7 years
of course, maybe try something that I wouldn't usually try
First goal is black denim with a zipper fly, I hate button flies
Why the hate for button flies? You've mentioned it a few times.
Personally, I prefer button fly.
The eternal debate
This is where chaps really get the job done
No fly
Easy access
It's funny, zipper flies are a huge turn off for me at this point with any kind of casual pants.
I have both but I do prefer zipper
the weird problem with buttons is I find that the top button bends inward more on button flies and can cause like a bruise/pain on the skin where it's next to
I do not know what causes this but it occurs in both my tighter fit and looser fit, sized-down and sized-up jeans
I like the button fly because it's fun to open
I've had that before and it isn't fun
Nudie is great. They have a ton of different cuts, so if you're near a store, I recommend trying on a few different pairs. I have a western-style denim shirt from them that I wear all the time.
Oh, definitely this š Plus Iām far less likely to leave buttons undone, as opposed to a zip flyā¦
It's months later and I forgot to post here but I got these in the end and I love them
Has anyone here taken advantage of the yen yet?
Spent a couple of weeks in Japan last month and spent a good chunk of change. Considering heading back in a few months if rates are still favorable
Too frequently
Me looking at my items sitting in the japanrabbit warehouse šļø š šļø
Found some Nudie Selvage Jeans that I like https://www.nudiejeans.com/product/lean-dean-dry-black-selvage
Lean Dean Dry Black Selvage
Without a doubt a favorite of ours - the almighty slim, tapered, fit Lean Dean in a crispy dry black comfort stretch selvage denim.
In the colour that I need (to replace my old black jeans)
And reasonably affordable with a zip fly
Never bought selvage/expensive jeans before, what is the major differences between them and something like Uniqlo jeans?
Not familiar with nudie myself but generally it's a quality jump. Although these do have stretch in them.
Selvedge is not necessarily an indicator of quality though.
(I've heard of Nudie, I just mean I haven't worn any)
Of course, but they are more expensive than regular jeans so I hope there is a noticeable difference in quality
Also stretch is also a nice addition imo
I'd assume the fit is more dialled in too. That pair's more slim than what's on trend but it's a pretty classic Nudie fit.
I usually wear slim fit so itās not a major departure from my norm, main difference is material and hopefully quality
I am also looking Nudie as itās probably the only local option for selvage (other than Uniqlo haha)
black nudie jeans tend to look pretty good when they're beat up. i wouldn't do the 'wait 6 months before washing' thing they have on their site though because slimmer cuts like that are more prone to crotch blowout
They also have a repair shop and supposedly lifetime free repairs
I agree. Iād probably give it a month or two as thatās basically what I used to do with my old regular jeans
Iād also like to get something in a more faded and looser cut, maybe something good for Aussie Summer would be awesome
But that might be a future venture
Fading it yourself will look better. Or buying someone else's beat up pair. Pre-faded honestly doesn't look great IMO. But they're just jeans. Gotta wear what you like.
Of course
I love the idea of your own pair fading with you over time, shows character and personality
But it does take time
If anybody else has experience with Nudie jeans let me know
Nudie is known to have a lighter weight and more stretch than most selvedge brands. The ones you posted are like that as well: 12.7 oz and 'comfort stretch'. r/rawdenim, or the 'traditional' denimheads hate it for this reason: they are dogmatic for heavy and 100% cotton. If you want to go slim and stretchy, nudie is great. It's a bit dated, but so is obsessing about heavy weight denim. So yeah wear what you like
I've had Nudie and Uniqlo selvedge jeans. The Nudies were nicer, but not in a life changing sort of a way.
In that sort of price range, Unbranded, EDwin and others are available and worth looking at
Living in a humid climate Iād only get to wear heavy denim when I travel overseas so itās not worth it. I also usually wear ādatedā items because they are more comfortable for me and work better for me
Even though Nudie is almost 6-7 times the price of Uniqlo??
Wait really? They come out at about..double, 1.5 times really. If theyre like 300 bucks there are for sure better options
Uniqlo Selvedge: $59.90 AUD
Nudie Selvedge Jeans: $350 AUD
Whew lad! Yeah I think there's a LOT of choice at that price point
Maybe they just jacked up the prices a lot since I paid ~120 GBP
they're around Ā£150 now I think
but still not as high as the AUD price
oh actually scratch that the selvedge stuff is ridiculously expensive
Yeah it seems Selvedge is priced as extra premium down here
And itās weird because thereās a Nudie store in my city and theyāre still expensive
There is not a world where I'm paying that much for stretch Nudie jeans
If it was $250AUD maybe
But $350AUD nah
And thatās the cheapest option too
Two random ones from Denimio. You can get a pair of Left Field's for less than that.
My rec would be to grab something from denimio, bears or one of the similar JP based web stores
they will usually offer free shipping and some will declare the item low/as a sample on the paperwork
I would also avoid stretch personally as the stretch fibres have a tendency to wear out quicker than the cotton as far as I can tell
I also prefer lighter weight garments as I live in a humid climate
So I donāt need any heavyweight raw denim
weight isn't the only factor, the tightness of the weave will make a difference also
I donāt want anything too restrictive, hence why I was considering stretch fabric
But if they need stretch to not be restrictive then maybe it's not the material but the cut that's the problem. Both those cuts are slim-tapered like the Nudie's you liked.
This is pretty nice, also has the signature Momotaro accents https://www.denimio.com/en_AU/clothings-bottom-jeans/MXJE1205.html?cgid=jeans
they are 15.7oz btw
and momotaro have a very tight weave in their jeans
a left hand twill could be a good option.
but i hear you about living in australia and not wanting it to be too heavy, im in canada and i basically can't wear jeans most of the summer lol
I hate wearing shorts so I often resort to linen blend pants but they require so much maintenance
If only these were available, theyād be super fun https://www.denimio.com/en_AU/japan-blue-jb0411-10oz-dry-cotton-selvage-stretch-taperd-purple/JB0411PUR.html?cgid=jeans
Faded Purple jeans would go :hard:
What is considered lightweight selvedge? 15oz?
No, that's on the heavier side. I think 11-12oz is standard. The Nudie's you were looking at were 12.75
But like Soup said sometimes the weave can also play into the heaviness or breathability of the fabric.
I also don't mean to discourage you either, like if the Nudie's feel like the move, do your thing. They're just jeans. But I do think there's maybe better options for the price.
This is cool because of the origin of the cotton https://www.denimio.com/en_AU/circle-14oz-zimbabwe-x-australian-cotton-vintage-selvedge-black-straight-one-washed-circlebk/J316BK.html?cgid=jeans
Got it so anything under 13 should be fine
But maybe try for 10 if possible
looks like this Aussie shop sells that cut of Japan Blues https://corlection.com/collections/denim/products/japan-blue-14oz-double-black-circle-denim-slim-tapered-fit?_pos=14&_fid=57736bdc8&_ss=c&variant=42796372328501
They also have PBJs for only a few bucks more than the Nudie's and there's a huge jump in quality between those two, fabric-wise.
CORLECTION
Japan Blue 14oz Double Black 'Circle' Denim (Slim Tapered Fit)
Japan Blue... in Black!Ā Easy to wear and super-stylish, Japan Blue always has a place in anybody's wardrobe. To round out all indigo blue offerings we stock we're pleased as punch to prsent their "Black Denim" line.Ā Made entirely in Japan from 14oz selvedge denim, these are 'All-Season'Ā denim made with all the JB fin
These also came up when I looked:
https://maplestore.com.au/collections/mens-denim
https://blueworkstore.com/
Maplestore
Mens Denim
Since 2003, denim has formed the cornerstone of our business, whether it's a pair of heritage five pockets from Levis', raw rigid Japanese denim from Sugarcane, or the softest washed backĀ pair from Nudie.Ā MostĀ of the brands we carry have a rich story behind them, earning their place as premium makers of the world's bes
Blue Works Vintage Clothing Store
BlueWorks American casual men's clothing
We have huge range of Japanese denim and American casual style clothing,trying to give you unique experience.
Awesome, thank you so much
Iām going to have a fun late night researching selvedge denim haha
From a quick glance I really like the accents of momotaro and tanuki jeans
But Japan blue has some interesting pieces https://www.denimio.com/en_AU/jbje15003a-11oz-sashiko-5p-wide-tapered/JBJE15003A.html
I donāt even know what material that is but I love it
Looks comfy as hell
But looks pretty profesh and hard
Its a pretty unique kind of denim with thicker threads woven through it
If you're set on a black slim fitting pair, Full Count 1108BK would be good if you can find your size. https://www.celluloid1984.com/?pid=177697070
ć»ć«ćć¤ć CELLULOID
ćć«ć«ć¦ć³ć 1108BK SLIM STRAIGHT BLACK SELVEDGE DENIM ć¹ćŖć ć¹ćć¬ć¼ć ćć©ććÆć»ć«ććć...
CELLULOID(ć»ć«ćć¤ć)ćÆćŖć¢ć«ććć³ć¤ćŗć»ćć§ćć¼ćŗć»ćć«ć«ć¦ć³ćć»ć¦ćØć¢ćć¦ć¹ć»ćµć ć©ć¤ćøć¼ć³ćŗć»ćÆćć·ć„ćć³ć»ćć©ććÆć¹ć¦ćØć¢ć»ć¦ćØć¹ć»ć¦ćØć¹ć³ć»ććÆć¤ććć¼ćć»ćÆć¤ćć¼ć¬ć¶ć¼ć»ćć”ć¼ć¹ćć¢ćć¼ćŗę£č¦åę±åŗ.
Alternatively Sugarcane SC41470 (linked and mostly in stock) or Freewheelers 601rb (probably hard to find at a reasonable price) https://bears-tokyo.myshopify.com/products/sugar-cane-sc41470-13oz-%E3%83%96%E3%83%A9%E3%83%83%E3%82%AF%E3%83%87%E3%83%8B%E3%83%A0%E3%82%B9%E3%83%AA%E3%83%A0%E3%83%95%E3%82%A3%E3%83%83%E3%83%88%E3%83%A2%E3%83%87%E3%83%AB?pr_prod_strat=e5_desc&pr_rec_id=d4e804b4a&pr_rec_pid=4998709248059&pr_ref_pid=7241396289595&pr_seq=uniform&variant=34036703559739
BEARS' -TOKYO-
SUGAR CANE
[SUGAR CANE, SC41470, 1947model typr3 13oz Black Denim SLIM FIT]denimThis model inherits the luxury and politeness found in jeans in the latter half of the 40's, similar to the representative model of SUGAR CANE, 1947 MODEL, but the silhouette is relatively thin.We have developed and used 13 ounces of selvage black den
Both shops linked here should be pretty painless to order from. If your open to wider or indigo pairs for summer Full Count 0105 (especially super smooth version) or Resolute 711 should be good options
Both look great but I want to find something with a zip fly
What jeans work well in a hot/~humid climate? My thighs are growing out of my 514s. Not planning grow em further as my upper body has a ways to catch up. I assume I should avoid high-rise as I'm 5'9" with a short torso, look for 12oz wt for heat, and do straight with a slight taper so I don't look too bottom-heavy. $150-200 budget
I see that Sugarcane 1947s are mentioned here and on r/rawdenim a lot but they are 14oz and high-rise. JapanBlue has lighter weight and the J304/J305s look like a great fit. Is 12 vs 14oz noticeable? What do you guys recommend?
12/14 isn't noticeable in my experience but I don't wear either much during the summer. 1947s are amazing but don't have the taper you seem to want.
I have no idea why you'd need to avoid high rise though.
Plenty of people your height and shorter make high rise look good every day!
As a fellow short boy I actually really like high rise pants/jeans
Oh that's encouraging bc I actually love the high-rise look and the 1947 cut looks great
I just thought they'd make my torso look even shorter relative to legs
Almost everything I wear is high rise and Iām 5ā5ā donāt avoid high rise
awesome thanks for all the help!
Def check out their fits in #waywt for inspiration!
1947s one of the best raws for the $$$ imo
Full Count 0105 (wide straight) or 1101 shoulde be good summer jeans - the new super smooth version shoud be especially so. Resolute 711 is a good straight leg, lower rise, lightweight pair. TCB 20s as well if you like the back cinch, suspenders, and belt loop combo (or at least don't mind)
coming from 514s to 0105s would be a crazy jump, i'd love to seet hat
Yeah they definitely would not fit the same as 514, but based on what I've heard from others they are super comfortable and first pair that comes to mind as a summer suggestion for others (new inseam too short for me). Wide fit should give good airflow too which is nice in summer. Resolute 710 (high rise, comparable legs) or 711 (comparable rise, wider leg)would be closer matches to 514
I have these and they're great for summer:
https://www.nakedandfamousdenim.com/en/sky-high-selvedge
Naked & Famous Denim
Sky High Selvedge | Naked & Famous Denim
The Sky High Selvedge is a 10oz lightweight Japanese Selvedge broken t will denim denim made with a blend of cotton and 18% real hemp fibers. Hemp fibers are naturally 4x stronger than cotton and provide extra durability for this lightweight denim. The color is a pale light blue inspired by vintage
today I wore 14.5oz black iron hearts in 80F w/full sun because I forgot my shorts at home because I am a fucking idiot
Thatās my nightmare
Iām a cold weather creature
We have a pretty substantial range of japanese denim around
What city are you from?
Oops nvm scrolled further and can see you were already recommended stuff
Brisbane btw
Always happy to hear other recommendations
Ah yeah
Melbourne sydney and perth im pretty sure all have places
But idk about brissy
Classic situation haha
damn naked and famous actually made their april fools jeans with teh 100" inseam
š
guy on /rawdenim posted it. said only 20 exist. hilarious bit but i cant imagine trying to walk in these
The feeling would be weird I imagine, also the sound
those are legitimately great
someone could pull some fully next level fits with those
not workwear style I would presume
just get them hemmed and they will be fine
they'd be good as wall decoration
especially if you have 11'+ ceilings
Or hang them like a tapestry on the ceiling
well well well
Just found this pair of selvage denim which fits all of my parameters https://edwin-europe.com/gb-en/regular-tapered-jeans-kaihara-blue-stretch-denim-green-x-white-selvage-12-5oz-c98-pu2-blue-mid-used-i031257-01-jt
Regular Tapered Jeans
Julius is 184cm tall and is wearing Size 32/32.
Lightweight, light blue colour (two options), some stretch, zip fly, and reasonably priced
Edwin make very solid denim, good pick.
However I wish it was more interesting like this one from Naked & Famous https://tateandyoko.com/collections/naked-and-famous-easy-guy/products/easy-guy-kimono-print-selvedge?variant=42603781390494
Tate + Yoko
Easy Guy - Kimono Print Selvedge
The Kimono Print Selvedge is a 12.5oz Japanese Selvedge Denim woven on vintage shuttle looms in Okayama, Japan. The exterior warp is indigo rope dyed, giving the denim a deep color that will fade beautifully with wear. On the inside, you'll find a traditional Japanese kimono pattern printed on the weft, adding a touch
I really love the 2 year wash fabric from orslow but unfortunately i'm too poor
If you search around, you can usually find some pre-worn pairs of other Japanese brands that have been worn to a similar level by their original owners. There are especially lots on Yahoo Auctions
Grailed
Denime Denime XX Vintage Denim | Grailed
Searching for Denime XX Vintage Denim? Weāve got Denime Men's Bottoms starting at $75 and plenty of other Men's Bottoms. Shop our selection of Denime today!
Another good one (linked from a good proxy and listing compiler) https://www.fromjapan.co.jp/japan/en/auction/yahoo/input/v1128648525
my best pair of jeans (fit) were from hnm tragically, they a light blue but came in other colors but i like light blue jeans and the cut was loose boot cut, it gives the most baggy looking jeans from all angles at all times without adjustments howd you have to with normal loose or actually baggy jeans.
but bc they were from hnm that means theyre gone now
and wont come back till they cycle thru their repeat list
actually worked there so have extra info on their recycling of whats next to produce
so the first iteration of anything usually comes from china
if you see a past item youve purchase come back has been reproduced by a different supplier which is the iffy part
and the most shit supplier of hnm comes from bangaladesh, pants being off(compared to first iteration) in texture, feel and quality of fabric.
shirts if made with patterned fabric has misalignments wheter it be w sleeves or pockets
Sure, the problem is that most of those are slim cuts though
ime these can be found for pretty cheap second hand
Man these Studio Ghibli x Studio D'Artisan jeans are so cool. I'm not into the buckle-back thing, but I love the plane detail with the contrail. I bet the fabric is great too. https://www.donguri-sora.com/category/RESTOCK/V44388.html
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I'm looking into medium blue jeans and I'm liking this grainer fabric as opposed to a smooth solid blue. what is this type of denim called?
stonewashed
these jeans run for 200. these are 60
These are sick, I love my studio dāartisans
Could be lots of reasons for the price difference, could also just be BS markup. Top pair looks a little straighter? Do either pair have elastane in them?
I wish uniqlo carried their selvedge jeans in wider cuts.
They've been my go-to for "I want a new pair of jeans but I don't want to spend $250 on a new pair of jeans" for ages
Yeah I love their black selvedge jeans but they only make em slim fit
On the danger of reviving a stupid shambling monstrosity of a discussion: How often do y'all wash your denim? Because that seems to be a bit of a discussion.
honestly? when i feel like i need to
i dont think much of it otherwise.
i def don't do the 'wait 6 months', 12 months' thing anymore
My go to will be if I've consistently worn a pair for a couple weeks I'll wash them
other than that, if I spill something on them or otherwise get them dirty they get washed
also this, I don't want high contrast fades
my last wash was because i started to see some cool bright blues pop through in late april so i was like "i'm gonna wash these in june" and i wore 'em kinda hard in may
but just follow your heart @Leo (Yakkeks). i feel like you can kind of tell when it's time
yeh two weeks could be too often for some people, I'm usually wearing them at work so they get more dirt from metal, me kneeling on the floor etc
š«”
Usually when I sniff it and go "this needs washed"
I have a lot of pairs though.
This though. It could be a year, it could be after 3 wears. I just wash em when I get stuff on them or they feel like they need it
anywhere between one wear and two weeks or so, depending on what ive been up to and how clean I'm feeling
2-4 weeks for the pairs I wear near daily. The ones I only wear every other week probably get washed 3 times a year
Some fucked up denim I got for cheap.
just remembered the jacket i thrifted in japan, super crinkly but there are pics on google
it fitted my outfit that i was wearing to the thrift store and was only 4000 yen so just had to get it
just googled it myself
and omg i m so glad i found it at a thrift store for 4k yen
bc jesus fuckin christ
and mine was in such good condition the label is still good
Low key hate that im becoming a denim person, but they are so damn practical when cycling lol
I love cycling in denim when I'm commuting
Yo denim nerds, what is greencast indigo?
(the denim nerd is meant endearingly ofc)
I don't actually know the meaning behind the name but it's indigo that a green hue to it. Oni Secret denim is the example that comes to mind
secret denim is on the right in this picture
aw
thats a nice colour
I've never fully understood the appeal but I'm realizing now it might be because of my colorblindness
I mean its a great way to create another set of slightly different denim to sell to ppl
OK so I know some brands use 'dry' for raw/selvedge denim but i've only ever seen Edwin use 'wet' denim and... what's that mean?
They list wet and dry here
https://edwin-northamerica.ca/collections/denim-collection
But I notice now that not all of the listings actually explain what wet is
Edwin North America
Akita Taper Wet Men's Premium Selvage
Experience the unmatched quality of our exclusive 13.5oz Japanese rainbow selvage denim. This fabric delivers superior strength and a unique, vibrant character. Slow-woven, replicating the meticulous techniques of post-war era jean-making, these jeans offer a timeless aesthetic and enduring construction.Ā Edwinās signat
This one "explains" what they mean but I'm still not sure I fully understand. Because they still say to size up if you want to wash them :thinkbutt:
Hmm sounds like they rinse it to remove some excess indigo but not enough to make it shrink? Might be a translation issue
Maybe itās just a cold soak to remove excess indigo but not fully shrink the denim
There are not enough stock photos to be sure but the yoke seam does look puckered though which suggests that they have shrunk from raw
I like jeans
i love double denim pieces
Is there a good explainer on jeans rise fits? My basic understanding is that it's measure from crotch to top. But not sure exactly of when you'd want high vs medium vs low (guessing something about torso vs leg proportions).
It doesnāt have to do with your body as much as your style direction
And whateverās comfortable
If you want jeans to sit above/at/below your natural waist, then you'll want a rise that allows that. But otherwise it's all down to style like said above.
I wonder if theseād be good for summer. Iām not a tall person (5ā8 or so) and I wonder if these could be a good length without needing to cuff my jeans https://www.universalstore.com/collections/thrills/products/thrills-chopped-denim-jean-ash-blue?_pos=6&_fid=84c275ec1&_ss=c
Universal Store
Thrills Chopped Denim Jean Ash Blue
Welcome to Universal Store, your one-stop-shop for women's and men's fashion. Shop the latest drops from all your favourite brands, including Perfect Stranger, Thrills, Lioness, Common Need and more. Find a new statement piece, crucial jacket or a pair of quintessential street sneakers.
If I want cropped denim without a cuff I would propably either just raw hem a pair of regular jeans or have them altered at the tailor at my desired length. Was 8ā¬ the last time I had it done.
Never tried raw hem before
Maybe if I bought a pair of jeans from a vintage store I would feel more comfortable doing so?
But I prefer the clean look of that crop
I would just tailor a style you already like. If you like this pair then go for it
I think I can order them online and can easily return them in-store which means I can try them at home than hope theyāre in-stock
Anybody have any experience with this company and can speak to the quality of the denim? https://www.weargustin.com/howitworks?utm_source=RMRS&utm_medium=influencer&utm_campaign=Sep2024_introduction
Gustin
How Gustin Works | Crowdsourced American-Made Menswear
Discover how Gustin's unique crowdsourcing business model brings you premium-quality, American-made denim, shirts, jackets and more at affordable prices.
The concept is appealing seems like it could be good
gustin bad
Whyās that whatās been your experience?
Reading online it seems it can be hit or miss with the sizing but the quality is good
I have some jeans but Iād like to maybe get one more thatās a nice pair I can dress up, dark or maybe black
And or get a new pair that can be my work jeans
Imagine waiting 3+ months for a pair of jeans that fit entirely differently than how they said they would and you can't return them. Oh and the quality isn't actually that great.
Aight if the quality isnāt there then Iām out. They have non crowdsourced ones but if itās over a $100 and still iffy meh
Thereās a naked and famous store I can go to and try in person but itās over $200. Iāve read good reviews though
That's because they advertise the brand like it's a really great deal but its not worth the hassle. Many users on this server have experience with Gustin and I don't know anyone who recommends them.
I just think the fits are terrible, the quality is bad, the customer service is awful, the wait time is outrageous, their advertising model is pompous. They make it seem like you are getting a great deal on "quality" by cutting out the middleman, but actually their quality sucks and the middle-man actually made our experience better as a customer.
basically I think their brand is a gimmick at the consumers expense
but to give you some perspective I also think n&f is bad for many of the same reasons
if you are confident in your measurements there are lots of great deals on almost new raw denim jeans on grailed, etc.
honestly if youāre really cheap just get Bronson MFG. the cut is fine and the quality is good for the price
Sugar Cane 1947 or TCB would be a better option imo, but if it has to be sub $100 and new just get the Bronson
Im not opposed to spending more Iām just weary of diminishing returns
I know it feels like it is sometimes, but clothing isnāt an optimization game
Yeah absolutely this
Get stuff because you like it first
Totally but idk that anyone is going to have a good time with Gustin
recommending against them seems fine imo
Yeah well it has to exist for you to know you like it
Where are the jeans gustin
I remember waiting like 18 months or so once for a jean that arrived and it was not even remotely my size or the cut Iād ordered
Iād forgotten I even ordered them
And they arrived and I was like ādamn I donāt think I ordered a toddler sized jeanā
Bronson looks good but not my size :/ I dare to have an odd numbered waist size
Buy a size up? You can wear a belt and also jeans will shrink with a hot wash
Also never go off āwaist sizeā with pants, always go off the measurements
Yeah I wear a belt anyways but I donāt want it to be too loose. Hot wash is a good point tho
Red Tornado is another cheap Chinese repro option to consider alongside Bronson
How much is Evisu or TCB
Evisus are like $200+ new now
TCB is usually like $100-$200
Are all these brands online only or are any available in stores to try out?
The Japanese ones are gonna be hard to find
If you plan to wash your jeans like a regular individual, be warned that I have never had denim that hasnāt shrunk more than the sellers claim it will, regardless of sanforization or one wash or anything. I recommend airing on the larger size
Depends where you are
NYC so I figure thereās a chance
Oh yeah
Go to blue in green
Oh yeah you got options lol
Try on everything
Is this in regards to Raw denim specifically? My denim up to this point has all been Leviās or similar mall stuff
You can check out self edge and standard and strange too but blue in green will have the most options
Iād suggest Standard & Strange over Self Edge if youāve never had raws before from a customer experience
Blue in Green selection is lit though
TCBs are all like historical cuts so those are a little different
But Iām pretty sure BiG has them now
Primarily raw denim and then raw-adjacent (sanforized and one wash). Heavily washed denim, stone washed, 2 year wash, etc aren't gonna shrink much unless you hot wash
Iāve noticed it most with raw
I might suggest checking out Left Field and 3Sixteen in NYC as well
Left field has some really unique stuff
I quite like the 3sixteen Classic Straight cut and Iāve seen some decent deals on Grailed
personally, I wish they had more wide cuts on their pants, but they have really cool stuff
Marking all these down in my maps app lol
I really want a pair of their womenās repro factory pants
Thank you all š
Ya getting your hands on the product will be great, maybe you find you donāt even like them enough to justify the price.
Tbh my favorite pair of jeans ever was from h&m back in the day
Nah they used to have ones that zipped up where your left pocket would normally be
I canāt find them now so probably donāt exist anymore
They do a lot of one-offs
These are true vintage ones so maybe Iāll just save up for those
https://www.etsy.com/listing/1678593182/29-waist-1950s-101-side-zip-jeans-sun
Sun fading on these ones is insane
Tragic that these are childrenās
those kinda look like the Scott Fraser denim trousers I want
Yeah thatās probably the same era menās equivalent style
My go to cheap pair are wranglers.
I donāt hate Leviās STF either
I really like the new manresa jeans a lot as well
I got the sfc ones. They are a really nice cut and currently propably my favourite pair of denim. I love how high the rise is and the cut is great. I propably ordered a size to big, which is workable but means some fabric bunching and some baggy ass fabric. If they restock them in W36 i might have to cop again to get my proper size lol.
I will say though that the quality control on these was not great. Plenty of loose threads on the belt loops and i had to resew the fly buttons bc they all fell off.
I propably should have returned them back then for a size smaller, but shit happens.
Also they drape incredibly well
Ooo thatās good to know but also with the buttons thatās rough
It was annoying but really nbd
Took me like 10 min to resew by hand
I have not and never wish to sew on a button
Everyone has to draw a line somewhere i guess š
Anyway. Apart from that issue really great jeans. I think the cut & drape make up for it. Also think they would look pretty cool on you!
Somehow after three previous pairs, I forgot that century denim is raw. I guess every other time I did a pre soak. So much crocking on my boots from one wear
Patina I guess
kind of like these new kotn jeans (tho idk about those fat belt loops). been interested in the idea of patch pocket denim as my sugar canes get more and more beat
Sfc patch pockets the goat imo
I got some jeans with slash pockets recently and I really enjoy them
i also really like the braindead type 00s except they're like $500 CAD
the fit looks really cool. don't love the front pocket designs tho
slash pockets are so nice for putting your hands in
Anyone know of something like the Oni-222 (super wide) but in a faded black? I know Oni does a similar super wide cut in jet black.
Nudies Tuff Tony comes in a vintage faded black that might fit the bill
Indigofera Kirk in Gunpowder washed version
Orslow Dad Fit in black stonewash
@jawntanamo_bae š„ just gonna refer to you as the denim mentat from now on
Unfortunately for my bank account, I deserve this
@ezluckyfree I donāt remember the name of the wash, but Tender Co has a variety of wide-leg fits and a specific faded black wash. However theyāre closed till mid-October so cannot look at their site rn
Amazing, thanks yall
Got some early 00ās Leviās for $45š¦šŗ/$30šŗšø. Iāll take a photo once I get home
I might crop them as theyāre long and theyāre not Selvage, otherwise Iād cuff them
My new (old) jeans, with a Weezer-style edit
?????
Thatās a fun gimmick
I want the whiskey wash
Reject kakishibu-dyed, embrace coors-dyed
Honestly better than the acne ones that look like someone shit on them
Hell yeah
brother I beer wash my jeans for free regularly (minus cost of beer), be safe out there dont get ripped off
I have a love hate relationship with denim
I have a pair of thrifted jeans but honestly I just don't find them comfortable relative to my other pants
But since I'm in NYC I should just hit up the million denim classics here
Phew this is a lot to read
How are these?
Don't have those specific pants, but I am a very satisfied Red Tornado jeans customer. It's a superb product. Only downsides are dealing with aliexpress shipping and the lingering moral doubts about how exactly a chinese brand achieves this absurd level of price-to-value.
This has likely been asked 300x and please redirect me: favorite pair of non-selvedge denim in the US under $250
I just donāt wear them enough for selvedge to make sense in the next 4+ years
Maybe a thread here would help?
You'll probably get better responses if you make a q&a post with a description of exactly (or near to exactly) what you're looking for
$250 is a pretty high budget for non selvedge
:linkWave:
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I've heard about double denim before. Is it a decent or poor styling choice?
Personally I don't mind it.
It looks good, unless you're swagless
super dependent on the fit and what's in style at the time
right now double denim is a good bet as long as your don't brick the fit
I love double (or triple) denim, but vary shades between each piece
Varying shades works but matched shades can also look very cool
If it looks good it is good
Yeah same shades can look cool if intentional and done right, just usually not what I'm going for
What Soup said - youāre probably will end up with selvedge at that price point just cause
At $250 you could look at sugar cane 1947s or orslow 105s maybe. I owned both and liked them, but I only had the washed 105s
Black Friday is coming up too and you might be able to get a decent deal on LVC stuff
You could just get a factory washed (aged) selvedge at that price point if you want a pre-lightened denim. Orslow 105 2-year wash, Full count 0105 Dartford Wash, the stone washed version of Sugar Cane 1947 (forget what itās called), and the Warehouse 2nd hand series in the 1001xx and 1105 models all come to mind
I really like naturally worn true denim tuxes (same jeans and jacket). Initially they will be the same tone but will diverge with wear as jeans fade much faster
The stone washed 1947 has been out of production for a year or so i think? But those others are good options used
Full count and warehouse are closer to $400 I thought
Only if you buy from US based suppliers. Very easy to order direct from Japan now
True - I assume you just mean via from Japan or a similar proxy
check denimio, they often have much lower prices than US suppliers
Denimio, Okayama Denim, Bears Tokyo
there are more, those are just the ones I remember now
Damn I wasnāt aware of this - now Iām learning lol
I always just bought my denim from a local place and never really explored other options
buying local is cool if you can afford it and it lets you try stuff you're interested in without having to rely on size charts
Oh for sure - Iād just rather save where I can and support my local place by buying stuff that I canāt really get for cheaper elsewhere outside of used.
Celluloid 1984 is another place to get WH and Full Count for cheaper without needing to proxy. Celluloid is maybe the cheapest place to get Full Count now. Takeoff sells a lot of Warehouse stuff and doesnāt require a proxy either
Iāll add that some of those Japanese sites can be harder to navigate than others (Bears, Hinoya, Denimio are the most user friendly) but thatās part of the perverse appeal to me. Itās like a Time Machine to an older internet
I was just asking something similar
Meghan Hall
Sourcing Journal
Leviās Brings Trademark Lawsuit Against Japanese Denim Brand and Tw...
The denim brand claims FullCount Co., Franklin and Poe Trust Company and Standard & Strange infringed on its trademarks.
i think i might spend-up and get a pair of henry's next time he does a drop with some indigos
I found out that Indigofera has a pretty blatant wrangler cowboy-cut ripoff (called wyatt)
They even do the small leather patch on the back pocket lol
Also they now have a KÄlÄ« themed wool blanket, I feel targeted lol
I'm really tempted to get a wyatt but based on the size charts they won't work for my thighs
I've got a few things from Indigofera, big fan of their stuff
All I have so far is a blanket from them (which I absolutely love)
Yeah, thighs are a bottleneck
I really like their non blue/black denim options
Another quarter inch of thigh width and I'd jump on these in a heartbeat: https://standardandstrange.com/products/wyatt-bootcut-khaki-dusk-denim
Standard & Strange
Indigofera Wyatt Bootcut - Khaki Dusk Denim
The Wyatt is an extremely handsome old school Western bootcut jean, with relaxed straight legs, a comfortable high rise, and a casual flat front. It's a little more vintage-inspired than Indigofera's Hawk bootcut fit, a touch roomier and more emphasized all-around, but not so much as to make the silhouette too wide or
I really dig the low desert ones
https://secondsunrise.se/collections/indigofera/products/indigofera-wyatt-jeans-low-desert-denim
Second Sunrise
Indigofera Wyatt Jeans Low Desert Denim
This is a reintroduction of a bootcut model by Indigofera. Wyatt is the predecessor of Hawk and the new version is with a higher waist, triple stitch decoration and a new leather patch on the rear pocket. This version of Wyatt is made out of a 13,5 oz wide loom right hand twill denim that is unwashed. Soft to the feel
yeaaah this cut good
Like my ideal every day jean
Yeah. Unfortunately I really can't justify buying even more denim pants. But if that wasn't a concern the stampede broken twill, the gunpowder and the low desert ones would be really hot contenders.
Silly thing about the Wyatt is that Indigofera doesnt tell you about that cut on their own website lol.
Only lists the stinky Hawk for bootcut jeans :mryuk:
more brands just need to do wrangler rips imo lmao
Screw a 501
501 boys have eaten well enough
Been on the hunt for some black jeans...
Standard & Strange
Indigofera Wyatt Bootcut - 14oz Gunpowder Black Selvedge
The Wyatt is an extremely handsome old school Western bootcut jean, with relaxed straight legs, a comfortable high rise, and a casual flat front. It's a little more vintage-inspired than Indigofera's Hawk bootcut fit, a touch roomier and more emphasized all-around, but not so much as to make the silhouette too wide or
Maybe my next big cop
see how long I can wait before sale season lmao
That's a really nice one too
I was browsing those earlier today too. Very tempting but I think I'd overlap too much with my 634s-sbg
The pocket flasher on this model was pretty egregious, actually spelling out Levi's
Absolutely. Cowboy cut is goated.
The ultimate irony is that Full Count had their own copyright infringement saga with TCB a few years ago as the arcs on the small run of 20's jeans for their contest were deemed too close to Full Count's, leading to all pairs being confiscated and then destroyed. Full Count then proceeded to remove their own infringed upon arcs about one year later only to bring back a blatant copy of Levi's for the referenced 30th anniversary model
Mister Freedom has recently had their own legal scuffle with Wrangler over the placement of their leather back pocket patch that their founder Christophe has been airing out on Instagram
I've got a jacket in gunpowder, it's really cool how higher wear areas fade to white
Oh, ill have to look out for that in your fitpics!
I don't think any of the fading is noticeable at a distance but I'll try and remember to get some close up shots and share them in this channel tomorrow
These look like a nice option for a black denim tux https://www.instagram.com/p/DBl_J4hydFn/?
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I'm a big fan of TCB, they have an 1890s blouse out just now that has well and truly wormed it's way into my brain
TCB JEANS
No.2 Blouse 1890
This jacket has wide shoulder and wide armholes so you'll get shoulder dropped silhouette when you wear it. If you have TCB 50's Jacket or S40's Jacket, we recommend the same size. If you don't have any other TCB jacket, we recommend you measure the shoulder width and sleeve length of your favorite jacket and choose a
Something about that low front pocket that's super cool to me (of course I end up liking this one way more than the type 1 that's half the price)
I have this one and the matching jeans. I wear the jacket all the time and have posted it a few times in WAYWT. The low and huge front pocket is great.
This isn't helping me right now :xd:
Will go and look up your pics with it though
The details and fit on those particular jeans are certainly not for everyone but I really like them. Theyāre more like trousers in the seat than jeans.
I have a Denime Type 2 that I post sometimes too and itās not always obvious without looking very closely. Full tux pics and spare jacket pics above of the 1890s
ohhhh i should not have looked at those TCB jackets...
Did you buy any?
Tcb jackets are sick but mine is cursed with tiny arm holes . Like super snug and Iām not even muscular
The 1890s are a little better. The shoulder construction is different. Itās almost like a dropped shoulder and half raglan. Thatās a thick 4-ply submariner from Bosie that I fit through the arm holes relatively easily above. Body length is still longer though
hah, not yet ! i do like that S40s jacket though
Feel like I may have asked this earlier, but as a human who wears denim 30-50 times per year what are some recommended brands probably under $200?
Would prefer a darker color but donāt think it is worth getting selvedge to wear in over 4+ years. Also some worries about crocking, Used to buy Lucky brand. Not looking for special/unique wear patterns but also donāt need preformed wear patterns.
Nothing about raw/selvedge requires several years of break it.
There are a ton of options at that price point. Any preference in terms of cut?
Straight leg
Thanks, everything I have read is that there was a lot of bleed/crocking and it was uncomfortable to wear for 80+ wears
I donāt care about incredibly unique wear patterns but I do like comfortable, good looking clothes and am willing to pay a premium for them if needed
Tall, lean, but mostly torso. Basically a 32/33 inseam is great. Not bodybuilder thighs
in the future, please search for previous or open a new thread in #questions-and-advice so others might benefit from the answers - thanks!
80 wears to get comfortable is really crazy tbh, if you got something super heavyweight and sized down too much maybe
Good to know. Last I read was it took at least that long to wear in
And when I asked above in this channel at the under $300 price point the rec was selvedge
If there is a minimal crocking/bleed period and under 40-60 wear to be comfortable Iād be happy
under $200 is like a wild range of options, especially if you look at used via grailed or ebay (which you should imo)
literally anything lmao
Thatās a discord issue. Can you subthread a thread? Or pin a quick post of suggestions at certain price points?
As well as sizing between different brands. Maybe denim is more accurate and doesnāt use glamour sizing, or has structurally similar thigh/calf/ankle measurements for certain cuts
Across brands
100%. Then how do you optimize help here. Are there certain brands that are more accurate? Or off on certain measurements? Itās the right baseline, and Iām likely shouting into a void, but there are ways to redirect a denim channel better
I do not understand your question.
If you want specific advice start a personal thread in questions and answers section thatās what the mod is saying
But no itās not like certain brands are more or less accurate (although some have wildly off quality control issues from time to time) just find the measurements you want and it helps narrow down the search
And keep in mind that all denim shrinks more than sellers say it will, with normal washing so air on the larger size when applicable
My fault, I was having a broader discussion about denim that I thought didnāt need a specific thread. Sounds like it probably did.
I thought I was talking more generally about denim than any specific needs I have but that either was inaccurate or wasnāt coming through
Idk Iām not a mod I donāt care
I still donāt know what your question is
My questions were basic FAQ ones:
- How long does it take for selvedge to be comfortable (some say 80+, others say much less)
- Rec for brands at certain price points
- Sizing/shrinking between brands
These can all be kept somewhere, or in peopleās heads, or never expressed. It all seems like localized knowledge in peopleās heads that a chat like Discord canāt pin/prioritize.
This sounds like a dissertation topic - EVERY BRAND?!v!
These are questions people redirect to this channel, which then gets redirected to a personal separate thread when it is beneficial for others to just see/check. Old message boards like reddit had their most value their, Discord struggles with it even through threads or pinned messages
If you want to put in the grunt work on this Iām sure it would be appreciated thanks for offering
I have owned zero pairs of denim in the past decade. The idea behind these communities are for people super into specifics to provide their opinions on things they are really into
But wish you well, this convo isnāt giving either of us value
fwiw going back to your original question I'd suggest just hitting up some vintage stores and trying jeans on until you like something
If you don't know what you want that's going to be the best bet
Bro what are you saying if you think itās valuable to ahaead and contribute it sound like your mad other people are t following your half baked vision which would take a ton of work
Sorry for the tone but thatās reflective of what I just read
We aren't jean google
Totally fair and I am in no way mad. I came here from occasionally searching the reddit channel years ago and saw a coverage gap. While also seeing other channels where people provide the same advice on almost a weekly basis. Seemed like there is probably an easier way to do things/focus on different things but I donāt have the background to start with that, especially in this particular space.
The āwhat jeans do I buyā questions may seem to be all the same on the face of it but the reality is that all of these things are in flux and dependent on a lot of different things. Could a bunch of information be collated and put into a spreadsheet? Sure, but it would either be too restrictive and end up recommending the same 3 pairs of jeans to everyone, or it would be overwhelmingly expansive and end up being useless to those without the prior knowledge anyway
Besides all that, the main reason we donāt have stuff translated into data and put in a giant list of infographics is because weād rather do the shared labor of just talking to the people who need things and helping them figure out what they want
The reason this thread exists is more just for denim nerds to chat about stuff theyāre into or show off some jeans or whatever
Not that it should be answered but I asked a specific question about jeans a while back and one of the main answers was to come here and discuss my question. So that does tend to create a loop, regardless of this specific thing he asked.
I think the problem can be, as bishop said there are soooooo many jeans available now. Many brands (particularly in the japanese denim works) are doing very similar things, a slightly different version of a repro of a specific jean from 1943 say. It's nearly impossible to recommend anything specific there, it's really all personal preference or which specific brand you happened to buy and liked.
Most the "raw denim is uncomfortable" beliefs come from people who buy skinny jeans that don't properly fit their waist or thighs. If it fits right, your denim should break in enough to be comfortable within the first week and only get better from there.
size down 2 as penance for your sins
I am gonna approach this from a different angle: what city or area are you in?
(ur typin a lot I promise this is not a bait question)
Chicago, but the discussion here has helped me figure out where to best direct my questions here and highlight that Iām not really ready to buy a pair yet
I'd hit up Independence, Mildblend, Dearborn Denim, and The Denim Lounge, look and/or try on some stuff, and then come back with a list of brands/models of jean you liked and what you liked about them! You'll also get a chance to figure out your general sizing and fit preference (slim/straight/taper/wide/etc)
Even if stuff is out of your budget, you might be able to either save and reconsider, or buy used online in the same vein or even, if lucky, the same model.
The above advice is great, particularly in that with some brands and models as a reference people here will likely have experience with the same pair/brand or know good alternatives to those in your budget
to answer the question about selvedge break in, some pairs will be like, immediately comfortable, some pairs will take a few wears, but like bishop said unless you're sizing down 2 in some gimmick 24oz pair they will not take 80. it really depends on the type of denim, whether they're one wash, how much they weigh, etc.
i previously did suggest someone come here from Q&A so that's my bad but i think m yintention there was this is a resource you can scroll through and mayhave better luck finding answers in because not everyone goes to Q&A
Crash I will say that it seems like some of your perceptions of raw/selvedge are kind of out of date, it's for sure true that in like 2010-2018 or whatever the vibe really was buy a super uncomfortable pair, sleep in them, let them stretch to comfort and let them smell like ass but i think the consensus has really changed over the years now that fits have relaxed and people are less obsessed with super high contrast honeycombs.
But I'll echo what @discord solipsist z said and if you're most concerned with how they look and feel, your best bet is gonna be hitting up those shops and trying them on.
Thanks, this is all the type of advice I was initially hoping for
The fun thing about denim for a lot of us is you can go deep with it, different repro cuts, unique fabrics, unique wear, etc, but ultimately it's often as simple as just putting something on. Let us know your impressions once you get to try stuff on! Knowing what you like (or even sharing pics/inspo) can also be really helpful for us giving recommendations
I am still obsessed with super high contrast honeycomb in black denim and there is nothing for me š
ive always wanted a black pair that'll fade nice and ive never pulled the trigger.
Alot of stuff I've seen lately is black warp and weft so it fades less
Which is annoying for both of you
Hoping these iron hearts I got in winter will get me there, just rotated them into being my daily this week
Yeah I think I got black / black which is probably not ideal for what I want, but I just liked the color so much
i debated the 3sixteens in the new RS fit in black but ive never been sold on their denim so i waffled a bit.
think i just need to spend an afternoon digging on ebay/grailed for a black pair and start there
was also looking at some 1947 in black or tcb in black if i can find them, the pair up top was intriguing
The new sugar cane black denim looks cool
oh i didnt even realize there was new, i just found some used pairs. new 1947s? only thing is i have them in the indigo and might want a different cut
honestly the brain dead 00s look really sick, just need to justify spending like $400 on brain dead denim
Second Sunrise
Sugar Cane & Co. 460 (1947) Model 14,25oz One Wash Black Denim SC42460
The 1947 fit made by Sugar Cane is perhaps one of the most accurate reproductions of a pair of Levi's 501's as they looked in the middle of the 20th century. Like many other brands, Sugar Cane started making their reproductions back in the late 1980's. A time when the vintage original jeans were becoming hard to find a
I think those were the pair I saw. I had seen it on a denim jacket first
im not sure if that black x white would be different but I was actually not so into how their 13oz black x black denim faded
excuse the slim fit
not the slim fit :why_dissolve:
I love the way my IH-634S-SBGs are fading although they're definitely not "high contrast". Highly recommend them if the cut works for you
looking at the Iron Heart forum for mine
oml I cannot believe people care calling each other "neph" on there like it's the fucking Alden thread on StyleForum
2 wash 200 wears
and like 6-9 months later
very cool, I need to wear all of my jeans more
Same
Iāve let so many pairs languish while I just wear centuries every day
My BDDW furniture maker jeans are crying
Same, and at the same time there are like 3 pairs of denim I would theoretically like to get, further reducing the amount of wear each pair gets :xdcrying:
so many cool jeans/pants and only one pair of legs :sadyeehawdab:
Fwiw centuries are amazing
I've been wearing my century and wrangler blue bells in endless rotation for like 2 months
Ive been lucky that my Edwins fit so exactly right that I'm not even thinking about other jeans
tender's website is back and im fixated on their denim
it's so crunchy looking (complimentary)
just waiting on their restock of their size 5's
Here I am thinking Iām letting my centuries go unworn because I like the fit of my other jeans more
Cruel world
Once my cop-drop is over I'd be wanting to aim for this western light-blue denim look :linkCool:
:100years:
:linkThink:
as well as correct sized jeans :linkSweatSmile:
Zeo has a solution for that lol
are your edwins made in usa or made in japan? i sorta regret not heading to the store in jp to try them but i didn't realize their usa line was made in usa now
i scoured thrift stores and couldn't find any that fit among the deluge of levis/wranglers lmao
I think in Japan, will have to check
Iām such a mega fan of iron heart fabrics but have the same issue with the forum lol almost everyone participating there is still on the slim or tapered wave
Which nothing wrong with that itās more just that anybody wanting a wide fit is left out to dry
Such a shame since the 21oz is imo the best in the game for heavyweight fabric
but there are so many IH cuts that are wider
I mean not as wide as some of these wheat sack overalls wide cuts from other heritage type brands
but I feel like I've compromised with not getting some skinnies here, this looked like the smallest it got
Haha I need the wheat sack overalls wide!!
Your pair fits you great I think they look awesome
I have some 1955 cut with the widest thighs they could find but itās still pretty uncomfy compared to my other fits since Iāve been radicalized
I think ur condemned to the other repro/heritage brands :xd:
"condemned"
sorry time for fainting into ur Stephen Kenn x 3sixteen denim boro lounge chair
I would love to brood in that chair
Just a good place to ponder
same tbh, I wish more high-end denim brands had super wide cuts
The Evan kinori x orslow pair looked awesome seems to be out of stock though now
oh my god
nice jair
the jounge
boro chair :doublehomer: u dont have this
?
Ah
The chair
ayyy itās the jair
Does it fade?
yes
not sure if that was sarcastic/joking but I'll answer as if it isn't: any denim material will fade with abrasion, UV exposure, etc., and long term that's true for other materials as well that you might not expect. most leather furniture will come with disclaimers about putting it in the sun
Not going to sit on that with light pants then!
š¤ its actually the GrowthRing collab, the 3sixteen collab uses horween natural unfinished vegtan leather intended to develop patina
the boro chair is on sale for a measly $4500 rn https://www.stephenkennstudio.com/products/xl-inheritance-armchair-in-vintage-japanese-boro-and-blackened-steel
good point I forgot that they didn't do the jeans shit
mestupid
u can only hold so much arcane knowledge in ur head at once it happens to the best of us
wide chair for your wide pants
the brain rot demon in me is like "get the black wool couch :)"
there are so many cool things on there
the desk chairs with the tan/cognac belting are like
š„µ
i sort of regret not snagging the weekender but maybe next year
dang there is some nice looking stuff there
luckily or unluckily its unreasonable for my price and practicality but makes my brain start turning
based on a recent comment I pulled out my TCB 50s jacket, the fabric is just sooo dreamy, especially with some washes. Its really too bad that it is cut so long and slim
I have the jeans and really love how the slub has come out with frequent wearing and washing. I agree that the longer jackets are a slight bummer, especially on a Type 2 which is why mine is a shorter one from Warehouse/Denime. I actually don't mind it on the TCB 1890s jacket though, weirdly feels more appropriate probably because of the front pocket placement and size
oh, I might check those out. I know the sugar cane type 2's are popular but I just havent really loved them (no clue why). Would love to find something I can wash the shit out of to get the vintage look without vintage prices
SC ones are kind of long too based on what I have heard. Freewheelers make one of the shortest. There is a new more period specific Denime 224-1954 one too.
I got a Strike Gold type 2 that's decent on body length
they only go up to a 44 though and honestly it's kinda slimmer than I'd like cause I can't layer too well under it
TSG sweats are pretty short too so a shorter jacket makes sense
I still love that jacket though, the denim has the craziest texture of any I've handled
only picture I could find but it shows the variance in the fabric
TSG fabrics are probably my favorite of all the more exotic textured denims. Their hardware is pretty cool too. It's a shame that their pants cuts tend to be super slim and low rise.
Agree about the Strike Gold cuts. Their collab jean with Self Edge has some of the best denim Iāve ever felt, but the cut is not ideal. š„²
This is going to sound really stupid but Naked And Famous's newer wide cut and the straight cut are selling really really well from what I've seen. Kinda hoping this splashes enough of the denim market that they are willing to take more risks on fuller cuts
I know Oni's new super wides sold out like crazy at blue n green
Itās kind of baffling how long the market has held into relax super tapers
Like I get that a bunch of the customers still like that
But it would be cooler if they didnāt
I mean it kiiinda makes sense if you think about the target demo for $300+ denim
They are very slow to adjust and adapt
But younger people starting to get into denim again
Its also super risky to do a full production of a size run in a expensive as hell fabric if it just sits
Its easy to keep selling new fabrics to the same dudes who are "raw denim" guys
I think N&F is stupid but seeing them mix it up is kind of a sign of change imo
I donāt think itās stupid
I donāt want N&F but they have a place in this world price wise and producing denim thatās more on trend is always a good thing
Yeah I feel like they almost push trends a bit with newer denim deads because they are just the go-to intro brand still lol
Extreme tapers are terrible if youāre tall with a slimmer waist. Iām a 31 waist with size 13 feet and canāt even get my feet through the leg opening of relaxed tapered pants
Gonna be honest they look kinda bad these days on most people
I prefer a skinny jean to a hard carrot leg
At least skinny can be styled in a certain "way" with cool leathers or something
Taper is just bleh
i've considered trying to grab the true guy or strong guy if i find 'em cheap enough
they look like decent cuts and aren't nearly as fuckin bizarre as the easy guy or weird guy cuts which are so so strange
at least in my skinny days the super guy was a normal skinny cut, the non-skinnies have always been really odd
Easy guy has to be my least favorite cut ever. I finally swore it off after getting a pair that couldn't fit through my foot and realized it had gone too far
This happened to me with some ālimited edition ā od drop. Absolutely ridiculous
Iād like to think Iām an entirely average build, as well
Anyone ever used self edge for repairs? Need a crotch fixed lol
I am handy enough with random patches but ionno if I can do this one
@discord solipsist z or @bud šš would be my guesses for most likely to have
Keep in mind itās drop off only. In general I trust self edge with denim but my only experience is at the la shop
Iām very close to them and theyāve always done a great job for me
Yeah I assumed. The PDX shop does their repairs and hemming off site I think
But you drop off in store
I would've said Indigo Proof is the best you could get and also located in PDX, but I think they operate on an email waiting list system now and are super busy
Yeah I hit them up and it was like 5 month wait list lmao
Indigo proof is incredible I didnāt know they were based in pdx
Yeah imo self edge would be fine especially for crotch repair itās not like you need incredible work for that area anyways itās more just reinforcing and repair that are important
Yeah I just dont have a machine and my last diy crotch repair lasted like 5 weeks lmao
I will drop off my pants and see what they say
I have not used them before, I just bought my first pair of denim from them earlier this year, and I'd have to check in on the drop-off-only situation (if it's drop-off only but they'll ship back I'd literally make a trip to NYC or another SelfEdge city just to do that if needed).
They do the repairs in PDX. I think you just gotta drop off in person then pick up later
I pinged that guy in Amsterdam who's mega hype on IG and he got back to me after like 6 months to say "hey I can take you" but I'd already had them done lol
I met the person who said she was their seamstress lol
But I think every self edge has their own setup
Reddit
zacheadams's comment on "Junya Watanabe WT-P030 (~3 years, repaired...
Explore this conversation and more from the rawdenim community
I've used
@rad_dudes and @bensorrellart on IG
looks like both are off the map now
last repairs were done by Shockoe Atelier but I get the impression that was basically a special favor they did for me (they do repair their own clothes though)I had jeans hemmed there but no patching. I was happy with denim therapy for a crotch blowout repair. Williamsburg garment co also did good work but took over three months
I did some searching for clothes I could sell and I found some jeans that could theoretically fit, but had a bit of wear on the bottom.
It's something I could probably take to a tailor.
ive used this guy for denim repairs, he works outta the viapiana shop in toronto and has like 50 union specials i feel like lol. but i dont know if shipping to canada is a realistic option. https://www.instagram.com/denim.repair.service/
Denim Repair Service (@denim.repair.service) ā¢ Instagram profile
583 Followers, 0 Following, 57 Posts - See Instagram photos and videos from Denim Repair Service (@denim.repair.service)
BLUE IN GREEN SOHO
Super Dad Jeans 66 Standard Denim - One Wash (Blue in Green Exclusive)
Blue in Green Exclusive orSlow's baggiest fitĀ 14oz Original Selvedge Denim Zipper Fly Color: Indigo One Wash 100% Cotton Made in Japan Model is 6'2 wearing a size 3 Also available in Denver TAGGED SIZE 1 2 3 4 5 WAIST 30.5 32 33 35 37 FRONT RISE 13 13.5 13.75 14.25 14.75 BACK RISE 17.5 18 18.25 18.75 18.75 UPPER THIGH
Niiice cut
Not as nice as the EK tho
Or maybe the styling is just kinda bad lmao
Measurements on the size chart look good, I don't understand how they've managed to make jeans with like an 18" back rise looks like low rise jeans
Hoping more stores get some better product shots lmao
I think they just wore them lower than intended
Which looks like š©
The bagging on the ass is savage
I've spent an embarrassing amount of time over the past few days trying to figure out whether fullcount's 15.5oz fabric is nicer than their 13.7oz option.
Question about sizing: if my waist is X inches in circumference, and jeans at X size have a waist measurement lower than X, how does that work out if the size of the jeans matches the waist?
Example: im looking at Samuraiās 710 Ecru jeans. My waist is about 31 inches. The 31 jeans measure 30.7 around the waist. So if one buys true to sizeā¦ then the garment size is smaller than the personās waist?
I feel like Iām misunderstanding something here. Can anyone help me understand?
Tagged waist sizes don't necessarily reflect the actual waist measurement of the garment basically
very normal to have say tag size 32 across a range of brands that would be anywhere from 31 to 33 inches when measured, or even more variance
basically always go by the measurements provided on size charts and not the tag size
Ok, so in this case I would want the size that corresponds to a waist measurement of ~31?
if the other measurements (thigh, knee etc) work for you, it depends how far above your waist size the next size up is
but personally I wouldn't buy a pair of jeans that are smaller than my waist size, denim does stretch and it's not unheard of for the waistband to stretch by 0.5" or more but i'm not familiar with those Samurais so couldn't say if they would stretch or by how much
Got it, thank you!
I may have decided to bleach my (already bleached) pair again š
Hoping I donāt go too light though!
is the super dad a BiG exclusive? I thought I'd seen it elsewhere. What's exclusive here I am confused.
it says "Blue in Green" on the patch, that might be the extent of it
tempted to go for the 2 year wash version
what's the difference between super dad vs 101 dad cut? I guess this BiG says it's hte 66 Super Dad? So confusing
When I tried the 101s on they looked basically like these Super Dad cuts though
actually the opening is a lil smaller actually on the regular 101s i think
who am i kidding i dont need more jeans :xd:
i have no clue but I also saw significant disparity with the "super dad" sold by Big vs Blue owl
yeah im just gonna have to hope uncle otis or blue button get both to compare so i can try on
i loved my 107s but the cut wasn't for me anymore, i'd love to have another orslow pair on the go
so i think the BiG is that they're using the 66 denim vs the regular orslow denim
my vintage levis ripped in the thighs š¦
the cotton is very thin there and its gonna rip more, what should i do
Either send it in to a denim shop that does repairs, or mend it, yourself
My Lee trucker finally arrived. Fit really is excellent.
Damn. I was wishing for an orslow 101/100 in a light wash
I figured it wasnāt gonna happen and got Manresa jeans instead
Those super dads look awesome
I was leaning towards oni 222 but this might move the needle
Aaaah I thought it was just the fabric I didnt know this cut was exclusive
IMO Oni's denim is so much cooler if you are into that thing
orslow just really nails clean classic vibes
No I think itās the fabric thatās exclusive. Iāve seen the Super Dad (100) elsewhere.
I need to wear my 222's more
This is the 100 in the 66 fabric.
I have a pair of clean denim currently so I was looking for something with some flavor to it
I also got my onis from japan for a good deal so
I wouldnt pay US prices for oni lol
Oops pardon my feet lmfao
I ideally want a pair of Henryās for my next pair but I also want another regular kind too, so Oni or Full Count or these 100s look good
Yeah us prices are bad my friend paid 200 from hinoya but it seems they raised the price too
Current pair
Yeah these are nice
I have been in the market for black denim
I just dont know if I want wide wide for black denim or just a straight cut
Same
Ive been leaning towards slightly wider straight leg but the options are not that amazing
Need to look at those indigofera wyatt jeans in person some how
Standard & Strange
Indigofera Wyatt Bootcut - 14oz Gunpowder Black Selvedge
The Wyatt is an extremely handsome old school Western bootcut jean, with relaxed straight legs, a comfortable high rise, and a casual flat front. It's a little more vintage-inspired than Indigofera's Hawk bootcut fit, a touch roomier and more emphasized all-around, but not so much as to make the silhouette too wide or
Sold out at S&S :sad:
at least in my size
I saw those as well I love the mild flare
Yeah, that cut lives rent free in my head as well
Will have to figure out if W34 or 35 will fit me bc of vanity sizing
Not selvage but I have acne 2021m denim Iām a fan but I wouldnāt buy them over the indigofera pair
Waist says W34 but my legs are thicc
The thighs look pretty slim to me
I just accept that I have to belt and size up for more thigh room
What are the best, comfortable jeans for travel? tia
There is no single best jeans for anything. There might be a best jeans for you but which one is the best depends on so many different personal factors that its impossible to give an answer.
Try rephrasing your question in questions and advice and pay attention to this psa when phrasing the question: https://discord.com/channels/1116793467654381685/1125515468829118484/1125515468829118484
cc @005bond005
Back in the denim game (I haven't really worn jeans for years).
Cottle
Please stop, I'm trying to resist the urge to get the triple indigo ones
You should do that.
there's never been a better time to wear jeans
Is it the best time to double denim? :linkSmug:
Its always double denim o'clock somewhere
Or in the words of a wise century denim collector: Don't think, just do.
Double century denim :galaxybrain:
I'm still waiting for an opportunity to get out the Pikachu jeans.
I've got a similar shade denim jacket.
So they'd match fairly well.
Unless they match perfectly I would err towards not matching at all.
But as with all things trust your eye.
Ok :linkThink:
Honestly, just try how it feels. Its not rocket science, its denim.
Also denim fades, and jackets and pants will propably fade differently anyway, so even if you get a perfect match its not gonna stay that way.
Cottle jeans are incredible but this is also a diabolical suggestion
Uh oh I keep looking at this.
When I visited Kapital in Osaka, a lot of the employees were doing this and it was pretty š„
Hey gang, I really love this light blue color that the Redcast x Oni collab made with these jeans: https://redcastheritage.com/products/redcast-heritage-x-oni-denim-kerama-blue-15oz-intense-bio-washed-natural-indigo-jeans
But two things: Iām just now finding out about them and theyāre almost out of stock and theyāre almost $300.
Are there any similar washes we know of? Looking for mid to high rise with a straight fit. Preferably $200 or less.
There was a pair that Banana Republic of all places had for a while but I was not able to cop in time.
i feel like naked & famous probably has something similar in a similar cut, quick google:
https://www.nakedandfamousdenim.com/en/sky-high-selvedge
https://www.nakedandfamousdenim.com/en/oceans-edge-selvedge
https://www.nakedandfamousdenim.com/en/left-hand-twill-selvedge-sky-blue-edition
https://www.nakedandfamousdenim.com/en/island-blue-stretch-selvedge
If u can stomach the MTO wait time and the price, so worth.
Is the wait time that bad now? mine only took like 3 weeks from order to delivery.
Oh I really like those first ones, thanks Iāll take a look at these!
My last order took a month and then another week to deliver
Oh thatās not too bad
damn the henry's jeans i was looking at dropped at noon and sold out at 12:02
oni finally used one of their weirder fabrics in the wide cuthttps://www.blueowl.us/products/200-ccd-crushed-concrete-15oz-selvedge-denim-wide-straight-fit
Blue Owl Workshop
200-CCD "Crushed Concrete" 15oz Selvedge Denim - Wide Straight Fit
ONI's coveted Secret Denim is the 20oz denim that earned the small Japanese label a cult following. A truly unparalleled fabric, the denim is known for its intense three-dimensional texture and is crafted using extra thick yarn. This installment revamps the original Secret Denim through a deep indigo dye that yields a dark blue color and a consi...
Goddamn thats pretty
Damn it actually has a decent rise as well. I feel like every time I've looked into a cool Oni fabric it ends up having a single digit rise.
ya the wide straight cut actually seems pretty solid. That fabric looks pretty wild though pics I've seen make me feel that I would not actually like it in person, personally. A bit too loud
My buddy has a lot of oni pieces that he likes a lot. I'm not sure if he has the concrete but it's tempting to check out
I really don't need another pair of jeans but those are damn tempting
decided iām buying 3sixteens after months of deliberation
i really have come full circle
i saw that
aint seen shit
im debating between the super dads or the brain deads for my next pair. pretty similar cut actually, cool details on the brain deads, bit of a wider thigh on the super dad but bigger hem on teh brain deads.
how are the super dads treating you @Scott? i saw some place say they were sized big but others have a 3 at 16.5" waist which feels small. i need like 17.5"
ya i was also a bit worried about the size but the 3 fits me perfectly in the waist
currently drying from the wash so I cant explore further
so far I've been happy with them, a bit harder to style than I was expecting because of the super high rise but that might just be in my head
normally I go for 33 or 34 inch waists for reference
ah word. maybe im a 4. there's lots of orslow stockists in toronto but none have the 100 in stock. i did try the 101 and it felt good tho, jstu a bit more tapered i think is the only difference
The brain dead jeans were way nicer in person than I thought they would be
They really went all out
You're a bad influence.
Does anyone know how much they'll shrink in leg length after a soak? They'll need a hem but I don't want to go too far
Donāt hem, stack
I regret having one pair hemmed
There's far too much stacking for my stumpy 28" inseam!
wash them and see how much they shrink
Well that would obviously be the sensible option but the old stinky denimhead in me wants to wait an age before that first wash
imo century denim looks way nicer with washes, id say just give them a few washes (maybe dries) to be safe with shrinking. I've heard mixed reports in this regard but all mine are second hand so I cant say from personal experience
just be sure to wash inside out, no spin etc. etc.
and the indigo will literally explode off these so be careful whats around
but sick pickup! hope you enjoy
I just rinsed my century denim and the only noticeable shrinkage is the pocket bags.
Ugh the pocket bags aren't even huge to start with, although they do feel dead robust
I might just get new ones put in.
The deal I got on a pair of 0105W yesterday was too good to be true. I woke up to an email telling me they ran out of inventory and had to cancel š
orslow dad fit painter pants arrived
their denim is soo nice
Iām looking for a western shirt with a similar aesthetic to Brycelandsā, particularly one that has a nice long collar and elegant single colour contrast stitching. Ideally double sawtooth chest pockets but I would be open to single too. I also prefer having no logo displayed on the chest. Anyone have any suggestions?
American Classics London
TCB Dude Ranch Shirt - Denim
TCB have done it again with another vintage staple. This time a reproduction of the iconic Sawtooth denim shirt from the 50's. The sawtooth flap pockets and eye catching back yoke are iconic features on shirts from this era.Ā Ā Details -8.5oz pre-shrunkĀ natural Mura Japanese selvedge denim. -100% Californian Cotton -19
I'm not sure the collar is quite what you're looking for
for single I think most of the jp repro denim brands from selfedge do this
e.g. iron heart western
alternatives off the top of my head could be The Real McCoys or The Flat Head
you might be better making a Q&A post though as there's likelihood of more people seeing it and you'll get more suggestions
Thanks! Yeah hard to tell from the photos.
Thereās a bunch from a Canadian retailer here:
https://brooklynclothing.com/products/d5771-studio-dartisan-14oz-selvedge-denim-western-shirt?_pos=5&_sid=eaba19aee&_ss=r&_fid=0fad166f0&variant=40893676650563
https://brooklynclothing.com/products/d5701-natural-indigo-western-shirt-one-wash?_pos=6&_sid=eaba19aee&_ss=r&_fid=0fad166f0&variant=40845550354499
https://brooklynclothing.com/products/full-count-4894-denim-western-shirt-indigo?_pos=8&_sid=eaba19aee&_ss=r&_fid=0fad166f0&variant=41377807958083
https://brooklynclothing.com/products/ues-sawtooth-western-denim-shirt?_pos=15&_sid=eaba19aee&_ss=r&_fid=0fad166f0&variant=40957219110979
the SDA ones have double sticking and logos, the UES has multicolored stitching and a logo, and the full count one is probably closest but is a bit lighter
Brooklyn Clothing
D5571 OW 14oz Selvedge Denim Western Shirt Indigo One Wash38 (M)
Originally woven with a vintage power loom at low tension, this is your classic Western shirt, cut from Studio D'Artisan's classic Japanese selvedge denim, a 14oz right-hand twill redline selvedge raw denim. This fabric is rinsed but will still require a bit of a break in, which will give it an excellent drape and fadi
Brooklyn Clothing
D5701 OW Natural Indigo Denim Western ShirtL (40)
Yet another very good denim shirt has arrived from Studio D'Artisan, and this one provides plenty of natural indigo goodness! While indigo dye is known as an organic compound, you may not know that thr majority of indigo dyes used today are actually synthetic indigo dyes. This is nothing to be concerned about, as even
Brooklyn Clothing
4894 Denim Western Shirt Indigo42 (XL)
Full Count's classic American Western shirt is woven from an original 8oz Japanese selvedge denim that features a darker organic coloured weft, resulting in the entire denim fabric reading as a darker, more vintage dark indigo. If you don't already have staple Western shirt, Full Count has you covered with a seriously
Brooklyn Clothing
10oz Sawtooth Denim Western Shirt2(M)
This is UES' classic Sawtooth Western Shirt, crafted from their very own original 10oz Japanese denim, woven on vintage looms at low tension to achieve a loosely woven, authentically vintage denim fabric. UES understands that their customers desire great fades from great denim, and as such they make sure to weave their
The Real McCoy's
DENIM WESTERN SHIRT / SAWTOOTH
The Real McCoy's reproduce products using methods and machinery of the past.
For a successful reproduction, these garments require the sensitive minds of the detail-oriented Japanese craftsmen on every procedure.
Thanks! Iāll check those out
If the Brycelands had everything you want, why not just get that?
I canāt find it anywhereā¦ and Iām not quite sure Iām not im willing to pay that much especially with import fees and local taxes
where are you located?
the what? :linkDetective:
Canada
Bryceland's HK
Sawtooth Westerner Shirt Denim | Bryceland's & Co.
10oz sanforized denim. Long in the body, and worn tucked in. The denim softens significantly and lighten with wear and wash. These are rigid, but sanforised denim, minimal shrinkage. Order true to size for a more tailored fit. Made in Japan
hmm
What store is that from?
Bryceland's London
Sawtooth Westerner Shirt Denim | Bryceland's & Co.
10oz sanforized denim. Long in the body, and worn tucked in. The denim softens significantly and lighten with wear and wash. These are rigid, but sanforised denim, minimal shrinkage. Order true to size for a more tailored fit. Made in Japan
Yeah, canada is tricky
Oh interesting they have a uk store! Thatās cool. Thank you!
The exchange rate of pounds to cad is ever so slightly better than hkd to cad but itās still a crazy high price with import
It's tough because all the options I shared will be expensive if you can find with a Canadian retailer. So your option there is find a Japanese retailer that ships internationally and accept the import costs
Or just eat the higher retail price if you can find it from a Canadian store
The brycelands ones are outta stock anyway in my size
Yeah Iām considering using something like denimio or celluloid
Second Sunrise
Bryceland's The Cowboy Label Sawtooth Westerner Shirt Denim
Bryceland's, founded by Kenji Cheung and Ethan Newton in 2015, is an expression of the classic men's wardrobe. Combining a basis of custom tailoring and men's haberdashery, they cast a classical eye for proportions and a desire to create elegance and masculinity on to every element of clothing, from workwear to the eve
Maybe you're a size 48?
I was wanting a darker denim jacket earlier because I've got them, but only in light blue, but now I've got a Lee one and I'm fine with that :linkShrug:
Nice Sam
They only have size 48 though Soup, thanks tho!
actually :linkThink:
it's more of a shirt than a jacket tbf
Yeh sorry just shared on the off chance that was your size haha
Heh no, Iām a 40 likely
Fwiw I have the TCB one I shared and it's great. Cannot fault them
Really great denim for the price
Itās quite cheap from here https://bears-tokyo.myshopify.com/products/tcb-jeans-dude-ranch-shirt-8-5oz-denim?_pos=11&_sid=5582fe081&_ss=r
BEARS' -TOKYO-
TCB jeans "Dude Ranch Shirt 8.5oz Denim
[TCB jeans "Dude Ranch Shirt 8.5oz Denim] We have reproduced the ranch sightseeing called "DUDE RANCHERS" and the western shirts of the 1950s when the Western style was in full swing.It features a sawtooth-shaped flap and a curved yoke. The winding stitch uses 7/32 inch with reference to the vintage.Dude is now a slang
So maybe Iāll just do that and call it a day
Would you mind sharing your chest size and the size you picked, please @Soup ?
I'm around a 44 to 44.5" chest and I got a size 46, that allows me to layer a tshirt under it nicely without it feeling tight or restrictive
Not quite the same since I donāt think itās regular
indigo but this looks pretty cool: https://www.okayamadenim.com/collections/all/products/pre-order-studio-dartisan-45th-anniversary-amami-dorozome-western-shirt
Okayama Denim
Studio D'Artisan 45th Anniversary "Amami Dorozome" Western Shirt
SP-124 SDA Original 8oz. "Amami Dorozome" Double Indigo fabric 100% Cotton Garment dyed in Amami Oshima Slim fit silhouette One Wash Belnap snap button opening Stylized back yoke construction Chainstitch seam construction Back afterĀ a lengthyĀ hiatus, SDA is back with their latest "Amami Dorozome" series featuring beaut
Also considering ordering from proper cloth instead
I went with the SDA one above. Thanks for the help, @Soup, @Sam and @Yakkeks !
That SDA one looks really nice
i like jeans
Wythe
finally sprung for the indigofera wyatts and the cut is pretty perfect for me
they managed to take the cowboy cut and altered it in just the right places
the waist is a smidge higher, the hem is a smidge wider and they are a smidge more narrow around the leg, but not too much to be uncomfortable for me
really happy with them on first glance. Lets see how they break in, but if they hold up I might just get them in blue as well (I got them in black)
the end effect is a jeans with an extremely straight leg effectively, which I kinda dig.
Are they the black gunpowder denim?
Wyatt looks so good but I think it's sadly gonna be too tight on my thighs to pull off. Kapital rat flare are the only flared jeans I've seen that are wide enough for me in the top block and they're outside my price range domestically.
yepp, though im thinking about giving them a good rinse before I wear them bc I don't think i want the super high contrast fades...
I only have a jacket in that denim (I don't think any of the jeans will fit me) but it does fade quite noticeably to white in high wear areas
I remember I said I was going to get a picture before and forgot. Maybe tomorrow when it's light if I remember
Wait a sec, is one not generally supposed to wash / rinse / soak a pair of jeans or denim before wearing it? I was under the impression that clothes can be unsafe to wear without washing first.
I have a pair of jeans on the way and that shirt above and was prepared to wash them but now Iām second guessing based on your comment, Leo.
Unsafe?
It's personal preference really, I've never washed a new pair of jeans before wearing them but some people prefer to
But I've only ever bought pairs that are one wash already
Huh, maybe Iām just misinformed. I thought that because so many hands and machines and materials touch cloths from factory to consumer that they can get full of chemicals and/or germ etc
I am more conscientious about this with tshirts, shirts and underwear. But Pants i don't particularily care about. We have skin for a reason. Also most clothing spends long enough just laying around in transit/a warehouse etc to kill most of the germs that might be bad for you.
Good point!
that would be super cool! I will see how I feel about the fades. Main reason I got these are because I liked the cut and wanted a black jean. The fabric was kind of secondary to the decision.
I loled at āwe have skin for a reasonā
i mean its quite literally one of the primary functions of skin ^^
I will say that I was somewhat concerned about this as well because im team thick thighs but ended up positively surprised by how roomy they are. Like not relaxed fit roomy, but roomy enough for me to comfortably cycle in them without any feeling of restriction.
Second sunrise has excellent measurements of them. Just keep in mind that they measure 10cm below the crotch for the thighs and not at the crotch.
Hmm that's good to know. I checked the charts on Standard and Strange and it looked like I'd have to size up a ton in the waist. I'm out now but I'll try to give it a check when I'm back
However I splurged on some Samurai S5100VX jeans over black Friday and should probably hold off a few months now
in lieu of a recent wardrobe limitation i really should have a black or black adjacent denim to pair with some of my clothes
end of statement
but also accepting recommendation (i like bootcut pants particularly)
Not super obvious because jackets are going to fade slower than jeans but you can start to see how the black almost rubs off on the high wear areas to reveal white underneath
oh yeah, thats pretty cool
Reminds me of IH's SBG fabric
Absolutely becoming an Indigofera stan.
the stampede broken twill has such a nice hue irl. Instant love (its greencast indigo)
Took a walk on the wild side. WW2 model from Rockets with chambray pocket bags
why does navigating aliexpress to get denim have to be so complicated and confusing i canāt figure it outš
punishment
for wanting alijeans
i donāt like that ur right
no one ever does
nvm none of the ali express make inseams longer then 31.5 apparently
AliExpress does jeans? :why_dissolve:
Plenty of Chinese brands have AliExpress stores
red tornado, bronson etc
Finger slipped. Brought more century denim. This is my personality now.
Sauce Zhan make some interesting denim, cool fabrics
they're one of the largest digital stores, I'm more surprised by what they don't do
AliExpress is arguably a better platform to buy jeans on than Amazon.
neither is good so
I wouldn't buy off either unless I wanted some Wranglers maybe. But if you're gonna buy one of the Chinese brands and save some money... eh I get it
yeah i'd rather buy jeans from somewhere decent
...like Levi's!
Levi's is still decent right?
Levis is good secondhand if you find the MiUSA stuff (Made in Egypt is apparently quite good too)
The contemporary stuff is either hot garbage or feels overpriced for what it is.
At least its that way in the EU
Levis have always been overpriced in Europe compared to what Americans pay
oh yeah lol
Sam just buy LVC
LVC?
...oh Levi's Vintage Clothing?
Yes but I was mostly joking
No need to jump head first into expensive Japanese jeans
Louis Vuitton Clothing
https://uk.louisvuitton.com/eng-gb/products/monogram-denim-trousers-nvprod5620032v/1AFY50 :linkDab:
i could ask what types of decent quality jeans there are in the UK, but then that'd be something for #questions-and-advice
It could be indeed. There are some good UK manufacturers as well
The answer is community clothing.
Blackhorse Lane Atelier if you've got the money
levis sold in europe were made in europe in the 90s
for the most part
spain, france, uk, croatia, poland...
all those factories disappeared in the early 00s
I've got an itchy finger to get a pair of the no 5 centuries to go with the 123s I picked up recently
good to know!
Im not a Levis guy bc most of their stuff just sits too low on me tbf
I had a look, seems pretty decent
Tbh though I don't need new jeans currently
Perhaps when the straight jeans I've got wear out
agreed, but tbh i have yet to find jeans with a good rise, like the biggest iāve found is 12.5 inches in size 34 when i need atleast 13.5
This one has 13in rise and 31.5 inseam: https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256807923158170.html
https://www.mrporter.com/en-us/mens/product/kapital/clothing/straight-jeans/new-momonroe-wide-leg-jeans/1647597345955021 15" on a size 34 (although you'll probably want to size up on the waist looking at the chart)
SFCs Patch Pocket Denim also has a 15'' rise and a 33'' inseam
Definitely size up
I own them and can confirm
Thereās a higher rise version of the momonroe too
super long torso?
Gotta love Mr Porter saying the model sizes up for a looser fit. Meanwhile the size 32 has a 29.9" waist :KEKW:
Is that a 17" rise on the 32?
Yeah the high version is like a sub-17ā rise
I have the regular version which is still like 15ā.
Also, I think the high version errs more towards womenās sizing but both are unisex
I think 17" would land squarely on my ribcage. Not entirely sure what that would mean in terms of comfort & mobility
Woag
Itās one of those things I think is so sick but Iām not built for it
I still kinda want it though - if I could just try it. But itās not as accessible in the US compared to the regular
oh wow those are fire (outside of my price range, but thank u for that:)
what are yalls thoughts on the tcb 40s
iād have to size up for 40 for my thighs tho
Iām not as familiar with those versus the other tcb fits but they seem good. Are they higher rise than other modes?
Seem to be slower faders than others as well
yeah, 40s in size 40 would be 14.5 rise
and they are long enough :)
Now if you are interested, apparently there are all sorts of intentional construction quirks to mimic the time period. Which is super cool if you appreciate that sort of thing but otherwise might come across as a mistake (which is what they were)
But Iām a big fan of tcb as long as the cut works
wdym?
and it seems to be a reasonable price, but itās out of stock (?)
If you search their website, Instagram, or superfuture Iām sure you can find details. I donāt know all off the top of my head
But things like pocket bags being made out of whatever surplus fabric was on hand, limited metal hardware, some wonky stitchingā¦. Etc. I think the 40s jeans are most interesting in this regard, personally, because of how the war effort had an effect on jeans
ā¦ i just like the rise, even if i will have to get them tailored at the waist by like 4 inches or whatever
Iām sure they are cool jeans regardless if you can find a pair for your budget
https://blackhorselane.com/collections/mens-jeans/products/e9-modern-straight-stay-black-14-5oz-italian-jeans :happy_thonk:
Blackhorse Lane Ateliers
E9 Modern Straight āStay Blackā 14.5oz Italian Jeans
Introducing our E9 Modern Straight fit, a testament to timeless style. Crafted with a straight leg and mid-rise waist, these jeans offer a classic and versatile silhouette that effortlessly exudes authenticity. The relaxed fit ensures both comfort and a flattering shape, making them a go-to choice for individuals seeking enduring style. Construc...
TCB kinda rotate through production of their different models. So I couldn't say when they'd make a specific cut again but they will. Easiest way to keep track is to follow them on insta
im gonna be real, these are terribly mid for that price
:why_dissolve:
But jest aside: what makes you like them?
I think that theyāre taking pre-orders now for Feb-March delivery https://tcbjeans.myshopify.com/products/pre-order-page-s40s-jeans
TCB JEANS
ā Pre-order pageā S40's Jeans
ā This is a pre-order page for S40's Jeans.Ā Expected Delivery:Ā end of Feb ~Ā end of March 2025 Ā *We stopped offering raw jeans or raw jackets. We've finally made something we had the biggest expectations about. When Hajime Inoue started TCB back in 2012, he was more fond of the standard vintages like 501XX model, 66 m
The sewing will probably be purposefully wonky but nothing too wild like Connors Sewing Factory or the new full count WW2 model https://bears-tokyo.myshopify.com/products/reservation-page-scheduled-to-ship-on-10-25-full-count-s2107w-24-ww2-model-brown-cotton-denim-pants?
BEARS' -TOKYO-
FULL COUNT "S0105W-24" WW2 Model Brown Cotton Denim Pants
[FULL COUNT "S0105WW-24" WW2 Model Brown Cotton Denim Pants] *We also have original models that have the threads already cut.Click here to see models that have already had the threads cut. DenimThis time, we use the same 13.7oz denim fabric as the standard.The cotton used is Zimbabwe cotton, but this limited model uses
Bootcut denim is weird and I am perpetually torn between 32'' and 34'' inseams
does leviās make a baggy jean
Simply no way to know
sorry they kinda mid
reporting back
wearing brand new levis is an ick just buy better jeans or thrift some (edit: i am talking about the price)
just so you all know, in 25 years people are going to think the levi's of today were so much better
because I'll tell you what, nobody in the late 90s was impressed at the quality of mass market clothing
nah
they're made in Bangladesh with spandex and look like shit
Levi's at least made you look good even though they were cheap
trust me, they'll get worse
definitely
but when i was saying that i was talking about the outrageous price per quality
yeah, I think levi's the only way to buy is if the sale is a minimum of 40% off (which happens regularly and should be considered the baseline price)
and only non-stretch even then
levi's msrp should be a crime
wranglers definitely still a better deal than 40% off levis
I have hope that in the future people will go back to more sustainable fashion (inb4 copium)
only those sold in the US (made in Mexico)
for some reason the raw denim wranglers made in Mexico are not imported to Europe
I'd love to know why "made in Bangladesh bad"/"made in Mexico good" .
They still make plenty that don't. Their newish cotton/hemp blend has been received very well, from what I've seen
i need more jeans
newjeans
worse working conditions (and they're very bad in Mexico)
I will say that the wranglers sold in europe are not great ime. no clue where they are made and if us wranglers are better.
I don't know where wranglers sold in Europe are made, but they don't sell any of the cowboy cut jeans in raw indigo which are the only ones worth it
in Bangladesh they throw dye and bleach to rivers in populated areas, buildings fall down or burn down and corporations refuse to sign the Accord on Fire and Building Safety
and there's much more
it's a big deal here in Spain because of Inditex (zara) and Mango. The CEO of Mango died last week and people cheered like the Luigi Mangione thing
I don't necessarily think you're wrong, because the conditions reported in some of these factories is truly abhorrent
But reducing it to "made in x good, made in y bad" is often not particularly accurate cause poor working conditions are found all over
Boohoo 'modern slavery' in the UK and forced prison labour in US manufacturing as examples
that's not what I said
Imagine how much plastic will be in those clothes we wear then
If levis are prohibitively expensive then unfortunately nothing within your budget is going to be made in anything less than abhorrent working conditions.
i said the line of wranglers made in Mexico is better than the line made on South East Asia, not sure where, which happen to be the one made in mexico. Thicker denim and better cut
Not arguing, just adding some qualifiers
https://discord.com/channels/1116793467654381685/1137087932088463400/1321872466334974025
The implied subtext is "made in Bangladesh" is automatically bad.
(unless you bought second hand)
even then, major secondhand players are responsible for immense environmental and economic damage to central & southern African countries. Buying secondhand from single sellers is often the "safest" option.
like it's all a symptom of capitalism, it is what it is
We must seize the jeans of production
I mean yeah that's true, there's child labor in Bangladesh and what I've said above
i donāt think the arguement is leviās are prohibitally expensive, they are just terrible for the money. if someone canāt afford leviās then they can buy millions of other brands of cheap jeans , and leviās isnāt really a step up in any way from them in my personal experience