Where is RatOS 2.1?!!!!!
I see the cb1 image for ratos 2.0 which takes you to the old install wizard but cant for the life of me right now figure out why I don't see a single thing for ratos 2.1
Solution:Jump to solution
GitHub
Release RatOS-v2.1.0-RC1 · Rat-OS/RatOS
Documentation is underway, 2.1.0-RC1 is marked as a pre-release until it's ready. Update all packages after connecting RatOS to your wifi network.
If you like the project and want to see it con...
54 Replies
Solution
GitHub
Release RatOS-v2.1.0-RC1 · Rat-OS/RatOS
Documentation is underway, 2.1.0-RC1 is marked as a pre-release until it's ready. Update all packages after connecting RatOS to your wifi network.
If you like the project and want to see it con...
ross youre becoming one of my new best friends
that didn't come up anywhere for me...
I have most of this month off so I'm spending way too much time on discord lol
once you get it on your wifi upgrade ratos first then upgrade all. Its way out of date as mikkel has been burning the midnight oil on it
whats up chicken! another day i the life of ratrig shenanigans
mines at least back to printing. Need some tweaking yet but its going.
hopefully yours is up and running quickly
Im working on it! Its 100 degrees here in Florida and I am in my garage trying to figure all of this out. Its a sauna today
Good time to print ABS without an enclosure I think.
http://ratos.local/configure
same link as the last wizard?
im in :mando:
nothing goes smoothly for me lol
Can you manually flash it?
I hit reflash and it went. no rhyme or reason lol
is this normal if I am only connected on a 5v source right now?
do I need to be connected to my laptop for this?
Not familiar with that specific board with with an octopus pro I just make sure I have the jumper that tries powering the board via usb removed and then the pi either powered from the mcu via its 24v power supply that it steps down to 5v or the pi via its own 5v power supply and the mcu on its 24v one.
1. Sometimes the "can't connect" but reflashes without issue happens. Not 100% sure what causes it, but it seems to work.
2. The warnings you are seeing in the most recent photo I also got when installing 2.1 on my VC3.1 and VC4 and nothing bad happened when I just went forward and finished the configuration setup. They all should connect just fine when powered with 24v
2. The warnings you are seeing in the most recent photo I also got when installing 2.1 on my VC3.1 and VC4 and nothing bad happened when I just went forward and finished the configuration setup. They all should connect just fine when powered with 24v
ok I hit confirm. Gonna remove the old board now and get everything connected to 24v. Im sure hooking the new board up to all the gadgets would have been better but wasn't sure if the board would flash so kept it in.
if I didn't have you guys Id be ripping my hair out
its alive!!!
Thanks for all the helps guys
did they do away with this step? I don't see it on mine
would make sense since we chose our printer in the one step
Yeah, the docs are outdated since they are still for 2.0. That's why 2.1 is an "RC" (release candidate) and not fully released yet. 2.1 is fully functional, you just have to rely on the 2.0 guides and figure the things out on your own that aren't in or are different from the 2.0 guide.
Docs for 2.1 are forthcoming, but once you've got the printer set up there isn't much you need them for
yeah itrs just adapting to what I saw previously so I question as I follow along.
whats the goal here?
I initially tensioned them with that new west3d tension gauge
you have two spikes so that is a start. the issue is all of the noise after 75hz. What size printer is it?
500
my belts slap during testing a little. Maybe I need to tighten them more?
VC3 or VC4?
vc3
Don't go chasing perfection, that's better than mine and my vcore prints beautifully
Better to have them a bit loose than too tight
I just ran another test after tightening the top. It was printing perfect before on 2.0 and this belt tention but never ran graphs
I cant get ORCA to work though with this error
a heat soaked the printer and tightened the top belt. Looks worse now lol
did you put extra carriage returns in the gcode? It should be on long line. It will wrap but it almost looks like it got broken up. Might just be the resolution on my macbook. Mine looks like
also what version of Orca are you on? I am on 2.1. Not sure if you need to be on a more current version than you are on
it says 1.7
I will update
ok that took the error away
The garage is sealed and the room is hot!!!! No airflow in the room. Also my parts arent tall. Polymaker I hear is good abs so here we go. Switch cover and braces
#letsgooooo
no exclosure just the hot florida weather lol. Clean prints!
I would rather have an enclosure than your weather though 🙂
no way you should see all of the booty at our beaches right now.
Im sweating but my printer isn't. Testing my limits with the garage open and no brim. So far so good.
inner/outer/inner/infill wall order really cleans up prints
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damn this printer is good
no warping at all
haha, my office in AZ is in Tempe so I stay at the Westin typically across the street from ASU when I am in town, so I know what you are talking about
It helps when your entire garage is an enclosed heater :). Very nice though. What filament?
Polymaker ABS
Sweet. Been printing polymaker asa really nicely. Have some of their abs up next
You lucky guys... In old Germany we always need a good working heater to get to temperatures enabling us to print any sort of technical filaments. At least I have 1kW heater in my enclosure. ASA is not that tricky, but if you have bigger parts printed in ABS we have to heat up the printer to about 50-60°C