And here we go again... first layer problem even with beacon3D
Hello guys!
Recently i have purchased a Beacon 3d, went through all setup and calibration steps. Beacon latency check had a score of 3, all parameters during calibration were more then fine.
Here is my heightmap scale: 0.036 to -0.030
Nevertheless, even after fine tuning of Z, i am receiving the following results, where one side of test print is ok, and other has ripples.
This just drive me crazy. I would appreciate if anyone can give a hint or advice.
Printing with ABS, bed temp 105, filament temp 235, speed 100 mm/s
54 Replies
This was printed during fine tuning, so there is a difference in texture. It was printing from the low right corner to the upper left corner. In the middle of the print i set offset to 0.4 and kept it for the rest of the print.
printed once again with max speed of 50 mm/s
https://github.com/HelgeKeck/RatOS/blob/documentation_v2.1/site/docs/configuration/beacon_contact.md
"5. BETA! Automated Beacon Scan Compensation"
Try this part
GitHub
RatOS/site/docs/configuration/beacon_contact.md at documentation_v2...
The preconfigured Raspberry Pi image that makes it easy to run Klipper + Moonraker + Mainsail on your printer. - HelgeKeck/RatOS
This is my result after running BEACON_MEASURE_GANTRY_TWIST
Will now make the rest of the steps anyway
Unfortunately, after printing similar piece but 5 layers height, instead of 1 like before, i still have the same issue
This drives me really crazy…
out of curiosity how does your bed scan look cold and warm?
Here is the results
how long was it at hot?
also what model and size printer?
and when you post mesh pictures can you include the side that shows the totals, etc that is to the right.
My printer is RatRig V-Core 3.1 300 mm.
My steps are:
1. Initial homing, Z-tilt and then Cold bed scan performed.
2. After soaking for a while Beacon and a bed with temp 105 deg. i re-homed Z, make Z-tilt again and make a scan.
Another 40 minutes and after re-homing and new Z-tilt results are:
I will now print those squares, and after each one, I will adjust the Z-offset by the smallest amount. I will then try to find the sweet spot and afterwards reprint the original test piece.
So... I have printed this file 2 times, and find the value of Z-offset that looked the best. Print initial test file one more time with a new settings and here is a result:
I think I’m going to lose my mind over this. Something must be absolutely wrong, but I can’t figure out what.
Will try to make a Beacon callibration one more time...
I can't understand why z-offset so much changes from one print to another.
I think someone else mentioned the ptfe tube being an issue because it's such a long run and if you clamp everything right with zip ties it causes binding issues.... This may not be your solution but if you are desperate enough it might be worth looking into
unfortunately not the case. So, i have found that some parts of my EVA parts were broken. Re-printed with resin, bought new nozzle and new plate. Completely change the magnetic bed. Make all calibration one more time. Beacon latency check shows 1 - Extremely low noise, rarely achieved. During mesh calibration deviation is 0.06. Printed few small squares and looks nice. But when start to print something bigger - the same ripples. I am truly desperate at this point
I am ready to pay for someone to help me fix this.
How you are saving the z offset? Beacon is not a save_config like a normal probe. You have to to "save_z_offset"
Yes, i use save_z_offset
And checked that it is the same during the print
Are you using the save z offset button or typing it in the console? Should be typed in.
typing. I have followed instructions pretty close.
I have made some tweaks and even change the slicer. Also i have turned off Mesh to eliminate any errors here. Made an extruder calibration. Unfortunately, i can't explain what is happening. Please look at this pictures, maybe someone can give me some tips.
So, here is a video what it looks like when it works.
But at the end of first layer it messed up in the upper left corner
The second layer start looks more weird.
And at the end of printing second layer it was like this:
The big thick line is due to pause printing
Can u send us a pic of your settings for the first layer
Including speeds and acceleration
I had the same problems on my 500 until i had acceleration at 4000 and speeds of less than 60mm/s, then my problem was so minimal that it didn’t matter anymore
Yes, sure. But i don't want to stuck to low speeds as well.
Full config for superslicer is attached as well
Only for the first layer…
Sounds annoying but you have nothing to lose except time if it works
You can also try to set the first layer width to 0.5mm
Hello I have the same problem like you
Maybe I have a problem can you make beacon_poke and send a picture
This is my result, so you should understand why I think all of this is something out of this world. And why i am loosing my mind over this. I will soon get devorced if i will not solve this problem.
All write, the next idea - could it be, that after switching to printing ABS with temperatures around 240 deg., the PTEG parts from RatRig could become loose or slightly melted that result in the following behavior: after print is started, after a while, the print head are actually sagging and getting lower to the bed?
I have already changed few parts that was obviously broken but there are some not so obvious parts that deformated slightly..
I definitely have some small play on my carriage
But still I can't figure it out if it is a carriage or the whole rail, that is moving.
Have checked all screws and didn't find anything strange.
I have noticed that during the print, when it start print with low speed, lets say 60 mm/s, and i increased speed up to 300%, the extruder start slipping, but it looks like it is due to the fact that the print head is touching buildplate and make it hard for extruder to push filament through.
I pressed pause and re-homed Z. After that resume print and the layers actually become printing normally. I have checked my Z axes screws and haven't seen something strange.
sounds like you are not preheating
How much time do you think pre-heating without active heater is enough before printing something?
you cans et your chamber temp in many slicers
orca has it for example not sure about superslicer
it will use your hotend to tell you when things are up to temp.
and use the part cooling fan to speed up the process
I have read this somewhere in the past, but thought that it more related to adhesion, rather then to Z-height or Z-offset deviation\
metal expands when heat is applied
so things change.
it can also be used to combat warping and other print related issues
I will try now to change filament to PETG and see what happens
Because earlier i have never have this problem
I have the ratrig v4 500 and there are all parts out of abs and I preeheated 30 mins but same result
Printed a quick print with PTEG, and the final result was not bad, taking into account that no calibration was done for PETG. But i was away during the print and can not verify how the first few layers were printed.Will make some more test tomorrow. Also, the temperature parameters are almost the same for PTEG and ABS.
What happens if you dial back your flow multiplier just a tick like 0.01. my Theory is, from watching my own prints having the nozzle just a tad to close, the filament is just slightly over extruded so it looks good for the most part. and that little extra bit stacks tho as the next line and the next are layed down until it has nowere to go and starts to ripple.
Unfortunately this didn't help either. I have recently made a Ellis' Pressure advance test and i get very starnge print. Please note the wobbly lines in the same place. I think the one that cause this waves are really responsible for the rest of the pro\blem. Now i need to understand what exactly.
https://discord.com/channels/582187371529764864/1293322335545196655
think we have the same problem
Thanks for pointing to your tread. I'm currently reading it but just curious, did you find the solution?
Yes it looks like a gantry bowing because of the bimetall effect
But not only because the bed is heating also from the heating of the nozzle
This is very strange, as it doesn't effect everyone and second - it didn't happened before. I owned a much chipper printer and it didn't happen either. Also it started with RatOs 2.0
This might sound weird but try giving your bed a good wash? I use "Spray Nine" cleaner/degreaser followed by a few damp paper towels to remove soap residue and finally a quick IPA (90%) wipe. I've been battling ripples for years and tried everything, a clean bed (combined with everything else) and I get a decent 1st layer. Dry filament, also helps
Has anyone confirmed my suspisions a few weeks back that its a klipper problem? I have had the same issue on 2 different printers. The only common thread is they both run klipper and they both started doing it after a klipper update.