400mm 3.1 mesh
definitely not great.... but I haven't even tensioned the belts correctly yet. Just starting the thread now because I know I'll need it.
for the record this has a weird printhead that limits some area of the mesh which might lead me to some annoying troubleshooting.
73 Replies
oof
okay, thinking about this some more before doing anything major.
I thiiink this is mostly gantry related?
well damn
man I can not get the belts to tension without ripping them out of the EVA blocks.
Something is very wrong. Your mesh goes up to 3.4mm!!
If it is gantry related your gantry is crooked af
I guess you tried loosening the rail and tightening the screws from one side?
what probe do you use? did you run z-tilt before the mesh?
pinda, z-tilt usually takes 3-4 tries.
gantry is definitely crooked on the Y, but that is because I can't get tension on both belts equally without them slipping out of the tension block
so I just set my rotation distance from 8 to 2
this should help
but I won't really be able to today (not enough spare time)
Also I still can't get my belts to tension without them ripping out of the eva blocks
found a bit of spare time
ztilt only takes one retry now!
well that is one hell of an improvement
a 2.165peak to peak difference (and that includes that one weird outlier in the back left) thats... that's pretty good?
it is definitely still gantry related
there might be an obvious reason why I'm missing, but I do have some other theories I need to try out
Well that is something obvious
That magnet should be here soon
ayyyyy
that's pretty good
I am happy with that
thats well within 0.2 deviation and is just fine. Im sure if you look at that peak that can be reduced as well. The dip in the middle can be bowing of the rail due to thermal expansion differences.
Am I reading that wrong? The deciation looks like 1.7ish to me. High is 1.65, low is -0.07.
1.655 is 1.732 away from -0.077
The advice given to me was to get your deviation below 0.2 high to low. According to this your almost 9 times out from that
The deviation isn't as bad as it sounds, the majority of that is in one peak where the flex sheet is slightly bowing up. I'm still waiting on a magnet to hold down the steel sheet.
Outside of that one peak it's closer to around .6 deviation. I think that's pretty good for my 3rd ever mesh on a custom frame. I don't want to do too much until the magnet comes in
Have you tried leaving the sheet off?
My pinda worked fine on the alu bed alone
I tried it but the activation distance for the pinda is suuuuuper close
Like I basically have to put the pinda at the same height or below the nozzle
and its better with the steel sheet?
I didnt really notice a difference in distance tbh.
But for checking your bed / frame it might be worth to just put the pinda lower or remove the nozzle.
At least a ~1.5mm gain in distance before activation
damn...
On the steel sheet vs the bare aluminum bed
Yeah
That's like
The suggested distance it be above the nozzle
I definitely had a few emergency stops figuring it out 
yea my pinda is also very close to the print
and my first z-tilt worked on the first round, then it adjusted the bed and the nozzle crashed into it before the pinda triggered.
do you have the RR superpinda or an offbrand one? I got the fysetc i think and was interested if theres a difference to the 3x more expensive one
Fysetc
Definitely seems to have the shortest activation distance of any on the market
no idea never tried another inductive probe
Yeh I misread. It was 
rare-sapphire•13mo ago
I startet with the belt tensioning as well... same problem with the ripping off part 😦
Weird i didnt have that issue, did you fully insert the belts?
mybe try reprinting with a higher extrusion multiplier (maybe 5% more?) they're quick to print anyways
I'll admit I'm using pa-cf
The literal worst option for these parts. Creep, etc.
I do have the 3do ASA gf but I'm saving that for my DDEX remix of the new rr toolhead
Offtopic ... What about annealed parts? Does CF20 make it better (compared to CF10 of 15)? In your opinion what would be the best for this? I wanted to go for PA-CF because it was so much lighter than parts I printed in ASA. IIRC it was nearly half the weight.
I only have real experience with PA-6, 11, and 12. PA-12 is a little less susceptible to creep, lighter, but less tensile strength than 6. 11 is closer to 12 than 6 but has its own properties.
I don't have a lot of experience with PC printing, but from what I've seen I'd expect it to be the better choice for the same reasons ABS/ASA are better choices and those are much much cheaper.
There's not many parts on the V-core where the few grams you could save with PA vs another material would actually be beneficial over the negatives PA introduces. Unless you just... Never plan on running enclosed at all
finally got a magnet
definitely still mostly gantry related - I have not done the things I've wanted to do it just yet. but the magnet did certainly help
pretty muc hte same thing last time I checked forever ago, but a bit more exaggerated
the three corners seem to be fairly even, but that one corner is ripped
checked the sheet and under it, doesn't seem to be that easy
loosened some plates and knocked on the frame a bit to literally no change
I only touched the right side, and somehow the left
like
well
uhh
z-tilt is working? :nicelmao:
I'mma be honest
I think this might actually just be my bed
I've definitely sent the head through it a couple times
also like, it is better
I was sitting between 1.38-1.43, now my scans are around 1.30-1.32
but that's still a lot
so I've been printing smaller stuff just fine but increasingly needing larger and larger things and fighting bed leveling a bunch. decided to do a full heatsoak and high resolution scan and only managed to confirm what I already knew
I'm pretty sure I need a new bed. I kinda want someone else to tell me that so I don't doubt myself, but there's not a lot of doubt...
I've definitely put a printhead down through the bed enough times to cause some warping, all usually right in the middle.
@Lemcott PErhaps not.
Can you give me an image of your printer.
I suggest, and it should work as a test. That you push your X gantry in the middle down.
What type of image are you looking for
If the gantry was bowed it would be viewed consistently from front to back, yes? Why is the back higher if that was the case?
That being asked, I did try this
I do believe the gantry to be bowed slightly, but it is probably nothing compared to the bed itself
Well if we look at how the z tilt goes
Z1 tilts based on the meshes center
So if your gantry is bent
You will have a slope
hol up
this is mathing in my head, that makes a lot of sense
back z is in the middle, so if gantry bowed, then back z higher
Yep
Basicly why in your case its that extrme
If the X is bowed like that the whole bed will tilt.
Same if its downwards you will have the inverse.
well I have sent the head into the bed on multiple occasions
That is why I said to push it in the middle down
In your case
I really thought the bed would bend before the gantry tho
No, bed is too thick
2020 profiles are easily bendable
eh, 6mm, not stock.
dual linear gantyr with steel spacers between
I'm not saying its impossible but by the looks of it its realy hard.
Dual rail mode is basicly even easier to bend it
I tested ddual rail on both 3.1 and 4.0
Same issue arrises if god fobrids you push it or pull it, even between filament changes if you have to pull the PTFE tube
You can acccidently bend the the 2 rails
man I just turned around and looked at it, and like... that gantry is visibile bowed.
Hahahah that will do it 😄
That is the only reason I went back to Ti Tube
I would accept the extra weight of dual rail but its just not ridig enough
Perhaps if we put it sideways it would be
But then a whole new toolhead is needed.
That is bowed as hell
I'm planning on doing a fully hybrid conversion, so I'll mess with it then
thank you for making that make sense
No worries man
Glad I helped.
Been there man.
holy shit that's a lot better
just pressed on it a bunch
titghtened up some of the spacers
this seems like uhhh
gantry misalignment or something
still a bit bowed, and then a skewed gantry... makes sense?
Well if you are on dual rail you could have a wave until you get it right.
I always flatten my rails beforehand so this doesnt go out of hand basicly.
And then use a torque screw for the bolts so it's all the sam. E