What exactly is #menswear?
I keep reading and hearing about this trend of online classic menswear enthusiasts, and typically it’s viewed negatively. I wasn’t online at the time this happened since it seemed to be late 2000’s to early 2010’s.
Can you provide any examples?
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Are you aware of the character Barney Stinson?
Broadly, its the idea that percolated around that time that a very specific style of dress is set in stone as the absolute pinnacle way for men to dress. Usually involving suiting or business casual tailoring. Very white, very white collar/upper middle class, very rigid gender identity, dressing well often attached to income etc. Ideas of "timeless", "quality = heritage" and "good fit = slim fit" largely arise from this era.
I think this guy does some ok writing but at his worst / least charitable interpretation kinda captures a lot of it : https://www.permanentstyle.com/
paging @The Teenage Gentleman lol
Is #menswear really similar to the popularity of the idea of “sprezzaturra”?
There were a lot of #menswear people who heavily promoted sprezzatura (and often did a very poor job of actually implementing it) but I don't think they're one and the same
I feel like #menswear kinda took itself too serious to really be good at sprezz
I would add to the above that I think it's really possible to do a version of #menswear quite well (like the person beans tagged), but in 2024 it's quite hard to escape the accumulated baggage.
#Menswear was (and still is) a lot of tapered, mid-rise trousers with side adjusters, slim fit button up shirts with cutaway collars, and slim tailoring that was too tight in the chest. Plus pretty much every fit had a pocket square and no one wore socks
#menswear always makes me think of the really sexist suitsupply ads of dudes in tight suits surrounded by naked women
they still do those in 2025, except the suits are slightly less tight now
I haven't been into one of their stores in a long time but I guess I'm not surprised
Omg I just looked up the ad. Idk if I should post it. But damn! Reminds me of the Blurred Lines song that was popular at the time
Don’t post it
There’s no need.
good question!
First off sprezzatura is more of a mindset BUT the colloquial expression of it kinda has a specific look with the slim pants, white pants, sockless footwear (of all kinds) ties with the back blade showing, bold checked jackets, denim shirts, etc
its not unlike how "personal style" today really just means big pants, some kind of retro sneaker or loafer, vintage tee, a cropped work jacket or fuzzy cardigan, ironic trucker cap, bold sunglasses,
#menswear really is just menswear of the 2010s because thats when social media really took off for fashion
its not that menswear doesn't exist today, but that #menswear refers to a very specific approach that kinda still is around due to how social media doesn't let anything die
anyway this is #menswear
but funnily enough so is this
the clip on suspenders lol
theres a bit of variation for #menswear IMO
there's the pitti peacock/sprezzatura which is all of those bold colors, sockless monks, colorful hats
and then thers the classic menswear side fof #menswear thats a bit more classic but still a "look" like a security guarding (navy jacket and grey pants) with a colorful drake's pocket square, clip suspenders
this is a good mix of both ends of #menswear
hopefully this helps lol
Yeah that helps a lot thanks!
It seems like classic menswear was more popular during this time? At least compared to this decade.
This part seems especially true to me. Anytime I try to search tailoring online I mostly get Pinterest results of European men in slim fitting suits.
“Classic” menswear was more popular online at least, because a lot of other styles were pretty much still in the process of carving out their niches, they just were there early on.
It’s like Google search is frozen in 2012
That makes a lot of sense
thats because most of menswear is forzen in 2012 lol
well taillring
its funny that despite wide fits and old inspo coming back
whenever its with a tie, people still go slim
like baggy suits, pleats are fair game...when worn with camp collar shirts, tees, etc
add in a proper collar and tie
NAH gotta be slim
These days there’s content for every fashion niche you might want to find, back in the early 2010s most of them were still coming up. So due to the sheer variety of stuff you can find today you’re bound to find less “classic menswear”.
i remember seeing this on tiktok in real time. a lot of creators would be all in on designer suit or big vinatge suits
and then whenever it was a "wedding GRWM" or something
it reverted back to 2015
its insane
people's idea of a guy in a tie is frozen
i mean biz caz is kinda frozen rightr?
the khakis, gingham shirt, and slim tie look is still office appropriate
but when its casual, its when fits get mroe fun
maybe thats a testament to how menswear is frozen as a capsule, its occasion wear instead of an actual style
so many rules learned, and none broken since 2015 :nooooo:
Lot of this is due to the implicit assumption of people that “more formal= more rules” I think
I doubt it is, but I wonder how many of these guys bought a "BIFL suit" in 2015 and now that's just it
i think its also because some of the biggest menswear influencers ar still around and haven't budged either
its timeless
simon is nice but still looks 2019 at the latest llol
same goes for he spoke style, etc
:yea: that's super true
i dont even count as a classic menswear guy, most people just call me vintage lol even if i wear ring jacket and modern MTM lol
i mean its vintage styling sure (on purpose)
but idk it just makes classic menswear not mean anything anymore lol
even anglo italians pants fit is stuck in 2017
extremely tapered
drake's pants are super slim
Taking inspo from other eras just has a different vibe when it's tailoring ime
the armoury is mid rise at best
yes for better and for worse imo
Emulate a fit from 1960 that's western/cowboy or something? zeitgeist, on-trend, super cool.
Emulate tailoring that's not from 2010s? Vintage. Going to a Great Gatsby Party. Using "cats" as slang ironically
The absolute hell of getting an otr suit with high rise wide-ish trousers has at this point taken literal years off of my life. So much so that I’m willing to go to London to see Scott Fraser in person lmao
Yeah I’m not even sure what “2020’s tailoring” is as a style because of how much influence there is from vintage style
But I also could just be ignorant
Strong case for like Lemaire…
This feels solidly 2024 w/o being so visibly derivative of like. 80’s Armani or 60’s/70’s cowboy revival that are big rn
yeah 2020s tailoring is either armani/RL esque or 70s cowboy lol
and neither of them are with ties lol
Or Evan Kinori et al
So this is where something like MTM can be useful. I don't recommend most people go for MTM because untold damage has been done that equates custom to simply "better" and you have to be willing to tweak the pattern, get bits of tailoring done, and accept that you just may not get it right initially. But if you do actually know what kind of cut, fabric, style, etc. you're looking for MTM can work
If i was into wearing designer clothing it would be lemaire or evan kinori
FYI suit supply is good now
oh tru
and if the sales associate is good they can manipulate the system to get a good fit
my friend works there and i trust him so im gettin a navy db suit
I keep forgetting susu isn't what they used to be and most ofthe old cuts have been replaced
I’ll be checking them out possibly. Though beans is probably on the money with MTM being good for me - I have pretty different sizing needs for jacket and pants and not many otr brands are actually willing to do split sizing.
susu does MTO and MTM iirc
Though most fits in their European catalogue are still very much slim
Ohhh you are probably right. I was just thinking the other week about how modern their coat looked. I am really just learning about a lot of these newer designers now.
Yeah it’s still really “classic” and elegant but it feels more contemporary
Than the stuff that was classic and elegant 10 years ago lmao
Also noticed how a lot of these pieces aren’t really gendered anymore and you see different models wearing them
lol full circle with suit supply
Can you link me this perchance
Sold out. But I was just browsing the website https://www.lemaire.fr/products/maxi-db-coat-unisex-bk999-black-lf1306-soft-virgin-wool-twill
LEMAIRE
Black Maxi Double Breasted Coat
Discover our Black Maxi Double Breasted Coat. Explore the entire LEMAIRE wardrobe on our official website. Free worldwide standard shipping and returns.
thx
Are ties just less popular today than when Drake’s was hyped and ALD was new?
But somehow I feel like Ralph Lauren is as popular as ever 🤔
Ties are continuing to be less popular in general for a lot of reasons but I think they're pretty crucial to a lot of more classic tailoring outfits
Covid did a number on the necktie mostly
On a personal note, I just dislike the "business suit and dress shirt with no tie" look unless you're throwing tf down at a wedding or something
g7 ass looking mfers
johnson looks like he is wearing jodpurs
Yeah I suppose they are trying to go for a more casual, relaxed look but it still comes off as business
Speaking of The Teenage Gentleman, I always like how he does the no tie looks
Im glad he’s in this discord
I feel like since Covid, almost every wedding I’ve been invited to has had a casual dress code
And I guess weddings are typically one of the few times men wear tailoring
Aw thanks!
Yeah I try to keep my tie less looks intentional and not just a tie look without a tie
The only way to have personal style in 2025 is to wear Lemaire. You’re welcome.