Inconsistent Flow on each print/ day
Hello,
This is ABS and I have little gaps in the massive infill but also a little bit overflow in the top layer. I print with 15mm/s max flow and have a speed of 200mm/s on the infill and 100mm/s on top layer.
I am thankful for every idea or Tipp.
417 Replies
@miklschmidt hello 😁 can you help with printing too or only the software ? 😁😊
@Helge Keck maybe it is a problem that I have here 0.6 nozzle but using a 0.4 ?
No
Classic example of exceeding flow rate. You might need to print it hotter, or you need to slow down (either slower speed, less layer height/width etc, whatever you want to reduce the flow rate), and make sure you calibrate your extrusion multiplier and PA for that filament at the speeds you're actually running in practice (not some slowed down version).
1) print a temp tower
2) find max flowrate with a flowrate test
3) set slicer settings so it doesn't exceed flowrate
4) calibrate PA
You need to do this for all new filaments.
Yes I do this for every printer and for every filament
Also I slowed down to 8 max flow so 100mm/s but also no changes
I also tried to calibrate the flow while printing this print but if I set the massive layer perfect then the top layer has much overflow
what slicer are you using?
Orca and tested Prusa too
I'm asking because if you don't have extrusion issues and you've calibrated your PA, that's the only source of error left
PA does not look calibrated in your images though
But today I tested the flow again and now with a flow of 1.008 it looks good on all layers
But the odd thing is…
maybe as simple as wrong layer line widths for the different features
But that wouldn't create gaps unless he didn't adjust the layer width but just yanked up spacing
The upper one is 1.008 flow and the other 0.96 but looks really similar
thats true, but must be a slicer thing as you said
its too consistent to be hardware issue
indeed
those are both overextruded 😂
Yes a little bit but the upper one is 1 flow and the down is 0.96
Hmm i wonder if that's the issue on the top one as well, lighting is just deceiving.
No a lot
Is this ABS? Usually i need like 0.91 or less with ABS.
It’s on the picture
Yes
ABS
But with this I have issues in the massive layers
Your flow should be tuned for top layers.
So do that
(see guide)
What do you mean have more flow ?
Both of those are overextruded
You need less. Not more.
Yes
This is less
The top one have 1.008
The down one have 0.99
No that's more
That is the strange thing
No
😄
Yeah said you tried 0.96
This was yesterday
0.99 and 1.008 are both more than 0.96
I printed this at the moment
This was yesterday
All of this is too much, way too much
Try 0.90
Yes but if I go more down I got holes
A quick another question make it sense to set the microsteps to 16 ?
240 is also very low for ABS
you should be at 250-260
I have 275
It says 240 in your profile
what's the top number?
It doesn’t matter it only says min and max but it doesn’t matter
I print with 275
Weird
That's a lot.. but ok
You're still overextruding 🙂
Haha yes
What do you say
Yes but it won't change this
Okay okay then I will print now with 0.95
Yes tried this
I used the orca flow calibration
Minimum 10 tunes
Times
But if the top layer is perfect
Then the massive layers have holes
I never had some issues like here and i have 10 printers here 😁
Only say that you know I don’t do this for the first time haha
So now I did again this test
91% was the result
But with 91% I got holes
But also some layers are without holes
Flow 0.92
Flow 0.91
The 0.91 flow looks like Moore flow then the 0.92 🤯
@miklschmidt @Helge Keck
So something is wrong with my 2nd head
First layer perfect with the second then again underextrusion
Then a test printed just 6 layers 5 pcs perfect the 6th lower extrusion
I took the sock away from the nozzle and everything is full of filament I think somewhere something flows out
But what I don’t understand is why it fits in a moment and then again not like such a wobbly contact
Can you explain that somehow?
nozzle not correctly tightened
or the 3 rapido screwas are not tight and it leaks out of the heatbreak
I took the sock away from the nozzle and everything is full of filament I think somewhere something flows outWell that explains a lot 😄
Yes this must be because the z offset is 0.03
@Helge Keck checked the toolhead and everything seams okay now
But still on the second layer massive unterextrusion all over the plate and then the 3rd layer was good again
This is second
This is 3rd
The nozzle is also clean
This is the flow
Or should be
Have you checked your extruder tension?
Yes
This is with 0.96
This is with 1 flow
But here looks 1 too much
(Upper one is 0.96)
looks good 👍
Is this with 0.96 too? and what layer?
Yes second layer and first layer was good height
maybe print with a little bit more temp or less fan
Have 280 degrees for ASA
also make sure your nozzle is clean
Yes the problem is that if I calculate the filament with 50x50 cubes then 1 flow looks too much and 96 looks good
But in real it was too less
the hole of the nozzle
It is clean and I let the Silikon socked away to see if something comes where it should not haha
It’s clean too
then you cool down the nozzle with the fan
I see a problem here. The extender nut should be (hot) tightened against the heater, not the nozzle.
i see a gap
What
Don’t understand what you mean
Bad idea
Cooling will fuck up your flow without the sock
Okay know now
I will now put it back on
And start a test print again with 0.99 flow
Ah you mean this one ?
yes
stay at 0.96
Okay
So no Fan is active
This is 0.99 flow
Yes the socket is off but if no fan is active this should not matter or ?
Another thing is that I have 0.04 mm z offset between the toolheads and the screw normally is completely screwed in
0.99
1 Flow
I tried to screw it Moore in but it seems like the maximum also on toolhead 0 is the gap
really seems like you may have messed up the feature specific flow rates in your slicer
What do you mean ?
he means its not the printer its your slicer profile
But what can this cause ? Do you have ideas ?
So 100% Flow is too much in the end
Or do you have a profile for me that I can test (then I will change only temperature flow to 0.96 and pa)
Yes, if you have set different flow rates for different features..
No only for the first layer 2% Moore
100% flow is always too much for ABS
explains why your second layer is bad
Don't ever adjust flow rates on a feature basis (except for bridging). If you struggle with bed adhesion change the line width, not the flow rate.
This is ASA
My fist problem was with ABS and my result was 0.95 wich was good
Okay then I will set this to 100% check the first layer height and test again
Same
check the first layer height?
what do you mean?
If my zoffset is too far away
This is the problem I think you think or ?
Ah.. As long as you're not actually measuring the first layer with calipers and using that as an indication of anything lol.
No, i think your issue was your slicer
Okay no haha my only problem are the holes
So you mean if I set the flow for first layer to 100 then it should work ?
0.3mm first layer height. Flow 100% across the board, except for bridging.
Will test it now
Okay I think this works 🥲 don’t thought that this little first layer difference make so much difference
Thank you very very much
Now even the 96% flow looks like too much
Yeah told you it’s supposed to be like 91 😅
Sounds like it might be heading in the right direction...
Can you explain me why first and second layer is good and 3rd layer have holes in and then after infill it looks good or a little bit too much like 1% flow too much
So it didn't work?
If I go down to 95% flow I have holes in the 3rd layer
If I go with 96% then not but then the top look a like overextending
Sorry, I don't know, something is wrong with your filament, extruder, hotend and/or slicer profile.
Since it's so random like that, i really think it's a mechanical or slicing issue.
Are you using a reverse bowden like you're supposed to or are you just running the filament straight into your extruder?
It's hard to tell without seeing your slicer profile and detailed pics of the hardware (including internals).
I use a Bowden
What do you need will send you everything 😄😅
Could be something stupid like an offset extruder gear
How can I find out
:kekw:
check if the grooves are aligned
And check if the grooves are aligned with the hole/tube.
open it up
Okay will check this
This is false or ?
yep
Okay 👍
This is now 95%
This looks good
So 95% second layer
3rd layer
4th layer
This is periodic underextrusion..
From layer to layer it’s getting more worse till infill and top layers
Send me a debug zip, i'm thinking you may have messed up the current or something
Okay one minute
Or your tension is effed
or your hotend is effed
😄
It's very clear that this is not a slicer issue from that picture.
The lines reduce in size
Yes think so too 😄
Current is correct
The odd thing it’s only on the layers bevore infill
Sad 😄 this would be the easiest way
So either your tension is bottomed out or barely grabbing the filament
Or your hotend is damaged.
Can you hear it skipping?
No
There is no skipping
Not enough tension then i would assume, unless the hotend is damaged. Or you still haven't put the sock on.
Or you haven't hot tightened the nut against the heater as i mentioned earlier
My sock is back on 😄
Yes I did
Okay, so you're now down to 2 things:
Extruder tension too loose -> tighten it.
Hotend damaged, possibly heatbreak -> disassemble the hotend and inspect all the parts, particularly the heatbreak.
Okay I will print the same file everything same with head number one
My tension should be good
how do you know?
I tried to pull it out but I can’t only if the extruder is spinning
And you're sure it's not too tight?
I don’t really now
I think it is not too tight but it’s just what I think
You should calibrate it by starting loose, then tighten slowly until you can't pull it out when the motor is engaged and extruding.
How does this look for you ?
like a nozzle that isn't properly hot tightened
and way too much tension
Now the nozzle is at 270 degrees i will loosen it and screw back in again
And then I will bring the filament in like you said (or the tension)
The extender nut, is it just a nut or does it have an M6 thread like a nozzle?
If it's just a nut (ie, you're using volcano nozzles), screw it down towards the tip nozzle -> hot tighten nozzle, then hot tighten nut against the heater.
If it has an M6 thread, first hottighten the extender, then hot tighten the nozzle.
What do I have ?😁
I literally can't tell when it's assembled.. (plus that is not hot tightened...)
Okay wait
you have filament leaking out
Are you using V6 or Volcano nozzles?
V6 = short, Volcano = long
V6
Okay so:
first hot tighten the extender, then hot tighten the nozzle.
Okay
That nozzle thread is covered in plastic
You gotta clean all that off
Plus inside the adapter
I will also take a new one
How can I do this
(Will do this tomorrow and take both new
Heat it up to ~100-150 ish, then try and peel it off with tweezers as much as possible
When tightening these you need to use ~2Nm force.
Okay
Okay
It’s now in
And now the new nozzle
How much nm for the nozzle
doesn't look right, looks the same as before, but the threads were clean so i guess it's good enough.
same
And it's heated to 270 degrees here? When you tighten it?
Okay back in Both with 2Nm
Yes
Aight 👍
then try again
Now the filament
If there's still holes, time to disassemble the hotend
Yes will now check the tension then will make a test print again
So filament in and pull out while thigten
Till the extruder is spinning or ?
Now I have 0.5mm less tension (the length of the screw which is outside bevore 10.5 now 11mm)
Will start the test now
@miklschmidt so nothing changed
Time to tear down the hotend and find the problem.
Here I go down with speed to 3mm/s cubic
But also the holes
Yeah your hotend is broken
Or your extruder, but we already ruled out the common extruder issues.
Okay at the hot end what can be broken here ?
I will test now toolhead number one with same file
your heat break
Or your missing the PTFE tube between the extruder and hotend
etc etc.. things like that
Start disassembling
Okay print now with toolhead 0 and if this works then yes if it don’t works too then I have to disassemble both 🙃
Okay same on toolhead 0
Well that makes me question everything
Okay I don’t know what I can do now …
Haha
Test again with different filament. Preferably something from a quality brand like prusament. Not the same brand and colour as you've been using in case it's from the same batch.
Yes will test this
Normally this is a industrial manufacturer (CR3D from Germany)
Maybe the extruder gets too hot ?
I have 55 degrees in my chamber the hole day
@03Julian04 What filament is exactly that? Is it perhaps a composite? Like CF?
No at first it was ABS and now ASA X both from CR3D
WHat pops on my mind, is your filament path.
What is your PTFE tubing like and what is the actual PTFE you are using?
I use this from ratrig which came with the vc4
This is PETG from Extruder and this have no holes or anything
Could be theat a lot of friction is in the tub ewith the other material
I personally use 4OD 2.5ID
I also tested to feed the asa to the extruder directly
But it seems that the temperature are different
Same material different printer the right one is much Moore shiny like PETG should be
I will now print a temptower to see where it gets shiny
I am very curious how much temperature is needed here
Sounds good. It varies a lot even by different colours. I recently tuned up some old Prusa (not Prusament) transparent brown PETG. 85% flow/extrusion multiplier, 0.04525 PA, 230 first layer 255 the rest to suit Prusaslicer 0.2 QUALITY VC4 HYBRID profile. The flow and PA are very different to other PETG I have.
The 1st vs other layer temp difference is often needed due to the 1st layer printing a lot slower.
Yes I tune every filament on every printer new only the temperature is what I take and maybe change 5 degrees
How much difference do you have with your temperatures between the vc4 and other printers
I think Prusa's own profile for the petg I mentioned has 230c, compared to my 255c on vc4. First layer temp was similar though, it's just for the other layers due to the huge speed difference.
Also a traditional temp tower will be misleading because it has small layers and prints slow. I dialed in by watching fast solid infill (eg solid bottom layers except the first layer). At lower temps it looks matt or a bit scuffed. I increased temp until the glossy look appears.
Note that printing fast and hot will show little mercy for damp filament. If you get a lot of stringing etc, try drying (more).
But even with this slow speed 255 degrees is matte and I can print with 280 degrees and looks still perfect 🤔 can this be true ? I have a hardened nozzle (I tell because I think these need more temperature but so much More ? ) on Prusa xl with hardened and bambulab with hardned I print with 255
Did you actually change the temp?
Yes it was automatically over orca slicer
From top first layer to holes on top layer
@Helge Keck @miklschmidt are anyone at the Formnext ?
I found the mistake…
It was the nozzle.
Yes I changed and tried also a new one but not another type I used an hardened nozzle.
Now with an silicone carbide nozzle from phaetus I have no problems anymore. (The hardened was also from phaetus)
Damn
how annoying...
We damn near tried everything and then it's all the god damn nozzles. sigh... Phaetus..
Glad you figure it out though, that was a tough one
Oh yeah … now I am with abs at 94% 😁
@miklschmidt okay I don’t solve the problem
Don’t know why but now it only happens after a long print
This was a test bevor the print without changing anything even the model is the same only not cutted
Hello everybody ( @tg73 @miklschmidt @VisualTech48 @Helge Keck ) till now I don’t get any solution for this
Tested very much
Tested also with PETG from extruder and there is the issue too
This was yesterday with 1.017 flow
Today with 1.017 flow (the top one)
Yesterday with 0.974 flow
Today with 0.974 flow
Here in the microscope you can see the layers behind the top layers
So definitely no Mountain
Are you seeing the same issue with both toolheads?
And are both toolheads configured the same?
If you have not done this, please do it: https://youtu.be/8vf_gY5Qg2o?si=VRQ8N4qwH84xCs6g
OrbiterProjects
YouTube
Orbiter v2.0 filament path adjustment guide
Orbiter v2.0 filament path adjustment guide.
In case you have received your sample with the filament path misaligned and following this video guide you do not succeed with the alignment please contact your local reseller for assistance or get in contact with me over our official Facebook page, we will help you as best as we can or send replacem...
Yes
You mean in the printer cfg ? Yes its the same
Did this already
Also the physicial configuration - nozzle etc?
Yes everything the same
Do you have an Idex v4 ?
I have hybrid VC4 500 (fully operative) and an IDEX VC4 300 (pending commissioning, I've been too busy). What are you thinking?
I've ordered the new 2.5 orbiters and will report back. Even though both of my orbiters are okey they have too much wiggle in the idler spur gear. (not the one you can adjust)
Next up is testing if @03Julian04 This happens with a direct deposit to the extruder, which means I recommend testing with the rolls being on top so there is almost 0 restriction to the orbiter when it prints.
Could be friction related as well.
Can you provide some wider views like this but showing 2-4 times as much of the print surface. And a few more examples, and a few with the print tilted a bit so it's not dead straight on to the lens.
Tested this also
I feed the filament directly to the orbiter by hand but no changes
you mean like this
@Helge Keck @tg73 @miklschmidt
What are the known problems of the rapido uhf ? I don’t know what else it could be.
Maybe temperatures varied while printing but the sensor doesn’t measured them
I think I checked everything else
In the absence of any further conventional troubleshooting steps, I suggest the following which are long shots:
1. Replace the silicone sock if you still have it removed. Run PID tuning on the hotend.
2. Reverse the hotend fan (ie, unscrew it, and flip it over so the label is facing forwards). Do some test prints and report back. Note that generally running with the fan reversed is not advised as it may lead to heat creep jams. The reason for trying this is to eliminate one other potential source of gantry bowing. It's also easy to try. It will most likely have no effect. Return the fan to the stock direction after the tests.
3. Remove your belts and run them through this guide thingy in various pairings (preferably print the guide thingy on a known-good printer, normal PLA works well). This should reveal some kinds of manufacturing defect in the belts that affect tooth pitch or profile. A pair of belts should move quite freely through the guide. If they bind at any point, this indicates a defective belt. Defective gates belts are very rare, but they do happen - I had this issue on my Prusa XL, and it was the first time Prusa had seen the problem (Prusa forum post detailing my diagnostics linked).
https://www.printables.com/model/931011-gt2-timing-belt-equal-length-checker-and-cutting-h
https://forum.prusa3d.com/forum/original-prusa-hardware-firmware-and-software-help/significant-distortion-on-first-layer-skew-straight-lines-print-wonky/
Printables.com
GT2 timing belt equal length checker and cutting helper by tg73 | D...
A little tool to keep two lengths of GT2 timing belt aligned to help cut exactly in half or match an existing length. | Download free 3D printable STL models
Original Prusa 3D Printers
Significant distortion on first layer - skew, straight lines...
I've made a test project which extrudes a single line to-and-fro, like this: I print it, then scan the finished (single layer) print in a (high quali...
Ah you mean that one belt is thicker then the other or what should I exactly test with this test
Test (3) helps detect belts being too thick, or eg the valleys between teeth being too shallow, or the spacing between teeth being wrong. The expectation is that the defect fluctuates over the length of the belt, so it's very unlikely that two defective sections will cancel eachother out. When I run my defective XL belts through the guide, they move freeley except for some regions where it becomes impossible to pull them through.
Your Prusa post looks like my layers
Ah okay I will test this
It's a royal pain to remove the belts to check, and it's very rare, which is why I didn't mention this before.
Yes
If you have some other lengths of gates GT2 you can check against those too.
But I am looking for the reason since 3 weeks
No I don’t have others here
So I will test everything And also I don’t have any other ideas
I am thinking of to buy the dragon uhf hotend to test it with this one
Ok, so trying different pairings against each other should be good enough. The hybrid belt was almost certainly cut from a different roll of belt than the xy belts (by RR).
Ah okay will Check the 4 belts across
I'd leave changing the hotend until later. You see the same problem with 2 toolheads on the same motion system. You've thoroughly checked both toolheads. Either you have terrible luck with both toolheads, or a systematic assembly issue yourself, or it's not the toolheads causing the problem.
And at this point, I would want to rule out the motion system.
Another thing
Here I got overextension with 0.963 flow
2 days before with 0.963 I have underextrusion
Did I see that you're running a ti tube?
Yes
Did you do those prints with the silicone sock installed or not?
Yes
Is installed
Just take it off bevor 1 week or so only for 2 prints
But did the lid tuning with the silicon sock on it
What does the plate of parts for those prints look like?
And remind me what size this printer is?
And what nozzle temp, bed temp and chamber temp?
500
Silicon carbide nozzle from Phaetus 0.4
ABS
240 degrees nozzle
105 bed
50 degrees chamber
I mean, what's the layout on the build plate. Screenshot from the slicer would show it.
Ah wait
To be clear, these questions I'm asking about the prints are not related to the belt checking. That's a separate thing. You should focus on the belts first. These other questions are related to the top layer inconsistency from one day to the next.
You mean this right ?
Yes. So just one part in the middle of the bed, not 10 at once or anything like that?
No both one and also 4 or 5 at one time
These were printed in one print
This one was printed alone (cut the model in the height)
This one was 100% same settings but not cutted
Why 🥲 is there so much difference
@tg73 do you know why I have in the right front corner more space to the wall then in the back
Have you checked the belts yet? Can you do that first. XY distortion cold be a factor.
Yes I think the belts are the reason for this because if I print with 1500acc the gap is gone
But at what should I set the belts up ? I mean I had mzv with 6-7k acc but the print looks like this with 4K acc 🤯
This checking of belts https://discord.com/channels/582187371529764864/1306313632233033781/1312804349826695198
Yes will do
Belts okay but not tested the reversed fan
But I don’t want to test this because the fan live is going down so this is no solution for me
Yes its overflow but you can see now really good the inconsistently
Same on perfect flow
Make the max flow test and don’t have problems till 35mm/s2
And this print is with 25 max flow
@miklschmidt @Helge Keck maybe you have some ideas ?
Sorry that I tag you again but I don’t find any solution
I have ordered the dragon UHF hotend to test it with this one
But till then do you have any ideas anymore
Sorry man, i'm all out. Did you take the hotends apart like i suggested, haven't seen any pics at least?
Yes 3 times
Changed also the nozzle 3 times and the uhf adapter
have you ever tried to print with more temp?
Yes I was at 260 degrees but it was too shiny for abs
imo this isnt underextruding, its inconsistent extruding
But yes I tested
Yes
imo 260 is not too much for abs, i print it with 265
Yes normally (on Prusa and Bambu) I print with 275 but because of the long melting zone of the hotend I had to go down
if its a rapido 2, then you wont have the 260 at the nozzle, you have it on top of the meltzone
i woudl just try to print it once with 270 for example
Yes rapido 2
Okay I will give it a try
i would also change the nozzle, just to rule it out
Yes did this 3 times
Have tested normal Brazz
Hardened (with 290 degrees then)
And at the moment silicon carbide
All from phaetus
And the optical. Indicator that it is way to shiny what about this
I mean I will try it haha but if its working then what about this 😁
who says abs needs to be matte
No not Matt
totally possible the brand you use is supposed to look shiny
But not as shiny as PETG
Print this brand also on Prusa and Bambu and if I compare the optical then the 245 are the same optical result
But yeah I will test it and write in 1 hour back 👍
i would even say this is overextruded
Yes
This is the right value
But I just want to try
94% Flow is this
This is printed with 270 degrees
Same problem
Can you please show me what all the parts look like then, we need to make sure there's no subtle damage. I'm not talking about the toolhead, but disassembling the rapido itself into all it's components so we can inspect it for faults.
It could be something dumb like the heatbreak not being properly secured in the heatsink
Yes I will make this later
The wierd thing is that it is on both heads …
Will send photos later
@03Julian04 Can you run this?
Print a 200x50 cube
That has 5 top layers
and then change flow
From 100, all the way to 80
In the Mainsail/Fluidd while its printing
And mark each with a marker when you do the change.
Go even 70 if need be
Then after than
Jump to 110
and go to 130
By jump I mean in increments of 10
So 100, then 90 and let it print for some time
Then 80
Then 70
Then 110
120
130
And then post results
Okay will do this tomorrow have disasambled at the moment
No worries.
YOu should have a nice strip, that tells you a lot.
This is how I calibrate my flow
On any new filament nowadays.
It's not uncommon that the rapido's need to be properly reassembled out of the box. Wouldn't be the first time.
He's done it quite a lot in this thread, the results are pseudo-random and doesn't seem to be speed related either.
I have already disasambled everything from the temperatursensor over the heater to the cooling zone of the rapido but yeah
i wouldnt be surprised if you ahve a small red plastik part in the filament path
But I will send you pictures later
Why red ?🤔
Yeah okay, i just wanted to make sure i couldn't spot something weird, because imo we've tried everything at this point, except that.
a small red plastic ring
Yes but this sill check for consistency, as well.
If he runs for example 20 lines for each flow
If they have the wavenies even on low/high flow
Either his extruder or rapido is f*
Don’t saw this last time but also I don’t looked for something
i've gone back and forth to this conclusion multiple times in this thread 😂
I think I can say the extruder is okay because I change to an orbiter that works on a v minion
i've seen picks of the extruder and gears everything looks normal.
Okey then your Rapido is f 😄
Rapidos
Could be you overtighten the rapido heatbrake and bent the thing?
it happens on both toolheads
Of f
What about extruder power?
But if he tried another orbiter
also checked and verified
THat wouldn't be.
So rapido it is?
I don’t know 100% but don’t know what else it could be
we don't know. He couldn't find anything when he disassembled it the last time.
yeah same
If he overtighen it could be the heatbrake middle part no?
I've seen it taper if you torque too much
Now I have ordered two dragon uhf but to build this up It needs more changes than I thought before have them
I'm sorry you're struggling so much @03Julian04. Tbf this is quite a unicorn situation, unfortunately not in a good way 😂
Why not rapido aces?
They seem to be nice and their heatbrake is solid af.
What about PTFE tube that feeds between the extuder and the rapido?
Don’t know
I only new a person how have the dragon with the same filament I am using so I thought if he have the same I can compare
Tested and changed from the original to a 2.5 and then to a 3 inner diameter
And if I open the orbiter I have zero resistance till the rapido comes
Hm, waht, 3 ID for the inbetween?
Yes
@miklschmidt Correct me if I'm insane, but inbetween should be tighter like 2
So it tapers correctly into the heatbrake.
What about pressure buildup, printing too cold perhaps?
Tested printing only 0.4 width and testet from 230 to 275 degrees
DId you try the 2ID tubing perhaps?
By hand if you push the filament does it come out nice?
If you apply the same pressure?
Yes same result
Yes
What do you mean
This was max flow test from 25 to 35
Remove the orbiter, cut 100mm of filament and push it by hand through the rapido when its hot
And then
See if it the line goes straight down
Or if it goes sideways etc.
Maybe its not keeping up the temp as promised.
Worse luck would be bad ceramic heaters.
But I have no idea how to test it
This is what I think
correct
this is a good test
@miklschmidt @VisualTech48 @Helge Keck what do you think how much temperature do I have here ?
It is a dragon UHF
The reason for the question is what material do I need to print this off ?
The reason for the question is what material do I need to print this off ?ABS/ASA should be fine.
Although there is no space between the printed part and the sock
It is a little tight and i would've preferred the sock to be below the part, but should be OK.
Okay the parts are printing now and tomorrow I will test it
@Helge Keck @miklschmidt @VisualTech48
So now with the dragon hotend the same result so the hotend should also be fine
What I saw now is that if the head prints in 45 angle it looks more inconsistent then in 135 angle
The down one are in 45 and the upper in 135
Maybe the x axis have an twist or is not straight
The head it self I think can’t be the problem because I have it on both heads
Same model just the next layer
@miklschmidt @Helge Keck can I set the z microsteps back to 64 or should I let them at 16 (there was a Problem with accuracy while making the beacon contact compensation that’s why I turn them down to 16)
You can try 64
won't change your prints though
I maybe found the issue
I have changed the x tube I corrected with captontape the bow of the tube but I don’t make a new beacon calibration after this so I have the false x twist data
omg
So you were using a wrong contact mesh this entire time?
No not a wrong contact mesh but the wrong of this
that is essential what the contact mesh is, just with more points
this doesn't do anything in itself, it's just testing to see whether you may need scan compensation or not.
rerunning this does nothing.
Ah okay 🤔 so then this is not the problem
nope
I took the belts out and in again to check they are okay
Also lubed the x axis again and maybe this helped 🤷🏽♂️
But I am still testing
But this was the print that shows always the error but at this time not
Did you just run
BEACON_MEASURE_GANTRY_TWIST or did you run BEACON_RATOS_CALIBRATE ?
The former does nothing, the latter does a lot.
could have been a belt thing.I run the beacon_ratos_calibrate again yesterday after take the belts out
Will see how the next tests came out
I will update here the results
What do you mean with the latter ?
If this all doesn’t help i think I will reset the complete ratos
Maybe I have anywhere a false value
BEACON_MEASURE_GANTRY_TWIST doesn't change anything. BEACON_RATOS_CALIBRATE changes a lot.Okay it is not solved
Could this be a issue ?
I mean it is perfectly easy in the middle and the back end only in the front it is stopping
uh yes
your rails are binding
good god your tension is horribly out of tune
Did you skip the tension graphs and IS calibration completely?
Gantry is skewed
No I had mzv
You took out your belts multiple times
everytime you mess with belts you need to run the graphs again
Hopefully the binding is just because your tension is all messed up
You think I run them to often ?
But please go through this: https://docs.ratrig.com/commissioning-guides/v-core-4#belt-tension
No i think you don't run them enough
You might want to do step 10 here first https://docs.ratrig.com/v-core-4-0/mechanical
This is perfectly aligned
Also the belts were good with mzv
Booth belts the same hz
No it's definitely not
The end of your video shows how it's not aligned
That's not how you check even tension
you need to run the belt tension graph
line up the peaks and amplitudes
it's all in the guide
Go through the guide carefully
I did them all
I will send a new video where you can see it is perfectly aligned
It's not weird at all you're getting inconsistent prints when your tension is so messed up, the binding causes all sorts of fun problems
What tension do you mean ? In the video I haven’t installed the belts
do it again
Oooooooh
I did not notice that
Well then we're back to
Do this without the belts. loosen the screws on your X-Y joiners
tighten them down while the gantry is square
Then add the belts
And then you need to redo your tension graphs (because you will have overcompensated for the mechanical skew)
Yes I mean this
I will do this all again to be 1000% sure
What do you mean with overcompensated ?
@miklschmidt how is this possible if I had the same hz on left as on right ?
@miklschmidt why do I got this
Normally on this strength of the belts I have mzv (on t1 I have mzv with the same thightening)
Who told you to tune with a spectrometer?
it's useless
Full of issues here
For starters, your belts are not the same length (from attachment point to attachment point, teeth inside grabbers don't count)
It looks like it's way overtightened too, but it's hard to tell from the noise, could just be crazy binding in the Y rails.
This explains all your problems though.
I am working with a trummeter
They move really free
This is without the belts
Left and right without the belts don't matter.
Because the belts skew the geo
You can bind you rail easily by hand.
While with belts it keep the tension and keeps it square
Okay I will check the frame again if there is everything 100% 90 degrees
Just mesure diagonally.
ANd then when you put the belts they will pull it correctly if its the same lenght.
You mean here ?
Basicly yeah
There I have a difference of 2mm
This is a Precision hair angle
0.2 is a kinda in that range of perhaps you should fix it. But I'm no expert there.
@miklschmidt
Can you chime in here?
Yeah that is not ideal in my opinion at least.
And also look here https://discord.com/channels/582187371529764864/1314714986664296518
Maybe the ti tube is a little bit too long and it pressure against the rails
Yeah but you could've adjusted the printed parts to be a bit depper for that
But this kind ahole on the frame is not ideal square wise.
THat is why you usually wanna get that solid
Before even going to everything else.
What do you mean
I think I order this and adjust the complete frame again
You can all do it by hand really.
No need for a 134 euro bracket.
You just need a flat surface where you will assemble it
Yes I thought so haha but the first time it doesn’t work like we see 😂
😄
Perhaps you rushed it at the end and gg
Maybe haha I will check this out
@miklschmidt what do you say to these things ? (That the printer is not 100% in 90 degrees )
Can this be the reason for those printing errors ?
Can this be the reason for those printing errors ?It's not directly the cause, but it's definitely contributing, your rails are not parallel, your toolhead should not move forward on it's own, that's very bad.
No its only moving forward alone just because of the ptfe and the cables which are pressing against the top cover
Ok, then move on to graphs. If you struggle getting them right, consider squaring the frame better.
Okay will check if I found time in December I have to make a move to a new home
I will write back if I found the time