still cant get first layers to be consistent

i'm at my wits end with this printer. im 10 days in and still dont have a first print done. i've been tryin to get my first layer issues sorted out. multiple beacon calibrations later, i'm still getting inconsistencies and non-sticking portions of prints. it's not the build plate, it's clean. the printer is not putting the plastic down close enough to the bed to smush on the external walls, it's constantly all over the place. it's exceedingly frustrating. this printer was supposed to be up and making molds a week ago. i need help
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Solution:
The only conclusion I came to was "maybe my x-rail was not mounted correctly or something"
Jump to solution
464 Replies
Rewire
Rewireโ€ข5w ago
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Rewire
Rewireโ€ข5w ago
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mazas
mazasโ€ข5w ago
What is the nozzle size? Does it agree with what you have in the slicer?
Rewire
Rewireโ€ข5w ago
.6, yes thought it was my pla profile, so switched to petg to use ratrig profile, same issue unfortunately
CrashTestCharlie / VC4 400h
Have you updated in the machine tab lately?
Rewire
Rewireโ€ข4w ago
Says I'm up to date
CrashTestCharlie / VC4 400h
Ok. So post your printer.cfg
Rewire
Rewireโ€ข4w ago
CrashTestCharlie / VC4 400h
Ok, nothing wacky. So hers what I'd do, Run the configurator, and let it wipe out the printer.cf, then delete all the save config stuff at the bottom Only add back in the bare minimum, like motor direction. Just what in needs to work, nothing else Rerun beacon_ratos_calibrate Then try the first layer stl again
Rewire
Rewireโ€ข4w ago
That's what happens is the first layer STL always comes out fine it's subsequent prints after that that are the problem I get one good first layer per calibration
CrashTestCharlie / VC4 400h
Ok. Have you tried printing the first layer stl then turning it off. Then printing again after rebooting? Then you'll know if it's a setting getting lost or not
Rewire
Rewireโ€ข4w ago
I can try
CrashTestCharlie / VC4 400h
Getting a different error makes all the difference. Means progress. A lot of people get discouraged by another error. It's all mindset.
Rewire
Rewireโ€ข4w ago
so i cleared my config agaign tos tart from scratch and nwo can't get ratos to calibrate again. something is seriously wrong when it does the poke test with a 150c hotend + warmed bed in the middle of the calibration. every time it does the poke test, it varies by .03, within variance amounts, so it fails the poke test. almost like the z motors are skipping the same amount of steps, when the hotend is at a specific temp, in the middle of calibration. wth? problem doesnt occur when the hot end is at 250c during the calibration
Rewire
Rewireโ€ข4w ago
250C +85 c bed
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Rewire
Rewireโ€ข4w ago
150C + 85C bed
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Rewire
Rewireโ€ข4w ago
2nd poke test 250C +85C bed
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Rewire
Rewireโ€ข4w ago
No clue what this means
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Rewire
Rewireโ€ข4w ago
failed at this part of the contact mesh, same thing as before, huge range between the pokes, but compared to each other within variance, almost like the z motors are moving the incorrect amount of length on the moves
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Rewire
Rewireโ€ข4w ago
it's literally tapping the same place and nothing is happening, how does it vary this much?
Rewire
Rewireโ€ข4w ago
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Rewire
Rewireโ€ข4w ago
it's not an issue with filament I had a great cold pull right before I started doing this process all over again
Rewire
Rewireโ€ข4w ago
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Rewire
Rewireโ€ข4w ago
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Rewire
Rewireโ€ข4w ago
Haven't touched the printer since this failed calibration, just ran a homing and z-tilt, and had to have adjustments made. what does this mean? something wrong with my z-steps?
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Rewire
Rewireโ€ข4w ago
failed again
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Rewire
Rewireโ€ข4w ago
this is making me profoundly depressed. i have a $150 monoprice mini select from 2016 that still lays down perfect first layers even when i dont touch it for months. But my $3,000 vcore 4 still not calibrating and printing after 12 days. i feel like im going wacko. why is this so difficult
archen
archenโ€ข4w ago
Check your Z for excessive backlash.. Looks like you have any kind of hardware issues
Rewire
Rewireโ€ข4w ago
please explain
archen
archenโ€ข4w ago
Check the thrust bearings and check that they are installed correctly
Rewire
Rewireโ€ข4w ago
unless the guide is wrong, they are installed correctly
archen
archenโ€ข4w ago
Guide is correct. Have you double checked?
Rewire
Rewireโ€ข4w ago
the lead screw constraints, yes?
archen
archenโ€ข4w ago
They are not upside down? Did you press the coupler towards the thrustbearing when tighten it? Om talking about the the bearing between motor and coupler
Rewire
Rewireโ€ข4w ago
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archen
archenโ€ข4w ago
Yes
Rewire
Rewireโ€ข4w ago
Confident about this, and there is the gap between the motor shaft and the screw
archen
archenโ€ข4w ago
Double check all three if you haven't done them even if you're confident Your mesh is good and doesn't show any signs of gantry twist but your values do so something is not correct. Since the mesh is done without Z movement I'm thinking you have issues on Z
Rewire
Rewireโ€ข4w ago
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Rewire
Rewireโ€ข4w ago
Is the coupler supposed to align with the flat part of the motor shaft somehow I don't remember that in the guide All I remember is is it saying to tighten the coupler while pressing down on it i took them all off and aligned the line of the coupler with the flat part of the motor shaft, and the screws are in so tight that im afraid ill strip them, so going to try again... the thrust washers all stuck to the bottom of the coupler when i took them off the motor shaft, so i dont think that was it
Rewire
Rewireโ€ข4w ago
am i reading this right? it failed with over a full mm in variance?
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Rewire
Rewireโ€ข4w ago
ran a z-tilt immediately after, and it had to make an adjustment. sigh.....
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Rewire
Rewireโ€ข4w ago
i dont understand.
blacksmithforlife
blacksmithforlifeโ€ข4w ago
@Helge Keck I don't know enough about Beacon to help - but this looks like something specific to how the beacon works. Can you help or point to documentation?
00Cyb3r
00Cyb3rโ€ข4w ago
die u calibarate the beacon ? did
Rewire
Rewireโ€ข4w ago
im on about my 15th run of deleting my cfgs and starting from scratch i've had 2 "successful" beacon ratos calibrates over the last 12 days, i get one good first layer, then concurrent runs go to shite
00Cyb3r
00Cyb3rโ€ข4w ago
i was facing the same problems, me than runs every singel step manually now its fine
Rewire
Rewireโ€ข4w ago
as far as i can tell, no hardware problems, everything is tight, mesh looks great, belts look great
blacksmithforlife
blacksmithforlifeโ€ข4w ago
is ratos up to date?
Rewire
Rewireโ€ข4w ago
yes i've been on the latest every time
blacksmithforlife
blacksmithforlifeโ€ข4w ago
the ratos dev team has been making many updates - so according to the update manager everything is up to date?
Rewire
Rewireโ€ข4w ago
my beacon has great latency when it's cold (1-2 when 19-20C), but then when it gets hot (40-50C) the latency gets up to 4-6, i dont know if that's normal or not
Rewire
Rewireโ€ข4w ago
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Helge Keck
Helge Keckโ€ข4w ago
this points to mechanical issues you need to double check the whole z-motion system
Rewire
Rewireโ€ข4w ago
thats what mikel said too but im not sure what could be the issue, everything is so tight if i go tighter ill strip the screws
Helge Keck
Helge Keckโ€ข4w ago
leadscrew couplers, oldham mounting, nozzle, the 3 rapido screws, the top alu plate carriage screws, the 3 ball screws from the bed, ...... mechanical issues is the only explanation when the you have repeatability problems
Rewire
Rewireโ€ข4w ago
not possible bad motor/stepper driver? these are on/off things right they either work or they dont
Helge Keck
Helge Keckโ€ข4w ago
you have partly deviations of over 0.12mm, there is absically no toher way than mechanical issues thats definitly not electronics or software
Rewire
Rewireโ€ข4w ago
ok
Helge Keck
Helge Keckโ€ข4w ago
check every screws that is related to z
Rewire
Rewireโ€ข4w ago
i guess i can try re-doing all the steps from the z assembly, something must be loose somewhere maybe the poms
Helge Keck
Helge Keckโ€ข4w ago
all of this is possible somewhere oyu have a loose connection
Rewire
Rewireโ€ข4w ago
My rear Z screw is not straight I can visibly see it wobble Is that something that could be it?
Rewire
Rewireโ€ข4w ago
Rewire
Rewireโ€ข4w ago
Both the front arms do this they can move up and down a little bit The rear Z does not do this at all Is that supposed to happen or? i've got everything as tight as im comfortable without breaking something trying again...
Rewire
Rewireโ€ข4w ago
sigh
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archen
archenโ€ข4w ago
Would be interesting to see a standard mesh vs a mesh made by beacon contact so you have Z movements
mazas
mazasโ€ข4w ago
The slack in vertical direction is expected and not an issue. Gravity is your friend here ๐Ÿ™‚ Probably not the cause here, but I had a similar issue when my bed had tiny bit of plastic at the home position. Perhaps try moving the build plate a few mm and see whether the variance continues?
Rewire
Rewireโ€ข4w ago
bed looks super clean, so i dont think that's it, but i appreciate the suggeestion i'm not sure what else to tighten, i've got my torque screwdriver maxed out (30 nm) on every screw related to the Z unless im supposed to be making these pillow blocks deform. Oh, and the screws that hold the printed parts to the rails. im afraid ill break those cause it feels like i'm deforming the plastic
Rewire
Rewireโ€ข4w ago
This is the only think I think it could be. The lead screws are not fully inside top of the holders, they are slightly recessed. I can raise them up another 10mm comfortably.
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Rewire
Rewireโ€ข4w ago
Going from this
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Rewire
Rewireโ€ข4w ago
To this
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Rewire
Rewireโ€ข4w ago
oh. my rear z pom insert wasnt screwed in all the way too. maybe that was it who knows, trying to calibrate again now.....
CrashTestCharlie / VC4 400h
Just to verify, the bearings are under the couplers? Also did you grease those bearings?
Rewire
Rewireโ€ข4w ago
failed again, nothing else i can tighten on the z assembly, and the toolhead is also as tight as i can get it without disassembling the whole thing
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Rewire
Rewireโ€ข4w ago
and yes, the thrust bearings are under the couplers, and I silicone greased them yes mg chemicals silicone grease
Rewire
Rewireโ€ข4w ago
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Rewire
Rewireโ€ข4w ago
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Rewire
Rewireโ€ข4w ago
the only possible thing i can think that is happening is the lead screws are slipping down inside the coupler, and i need to make some sort of insert, but i dont have anyting that's non-compressable to put in there i guess i could put some small washers in there. i greased the lead screws (when i first assembled, they were squeaking bad), squeaking went away, but when i undid the couplers, i can see some grease inside the coupler so if the metal is not deforming and is holding with friction only, they might be slightly slipping
CrashTestCharlie / VC4 400h
Def something mechanical to make it change that much on just a small z move
Rewire
Rewireโ€ข4w ago
i just have no clue what else to tighten, if i tighten anything else the screws or parts are going to break, the only thing i can think of is something slipping i rounded off one of my 2.5mm allenkeys tightening things i mean they are cranked
CrashTestCharlie / VC4 400h
Yeah, what I circled is it not going back up the sane amount as it goes down.
Rewire
Rewireโ€ข4w ago
yeah
CrashTestCharlie / VC4 400h
The screw can be tight but that doesn't mean it's clamping tight.
Rewire
Rewireโ€ข4w ago
it would take a lot of calibrations for the lead screws to bottom out, but the guide says "don't let them touch the motor shaft" imma take off the couplers and put some washers in the big part where the lead screw goes and let them bottom out on those so they can't drop further
CrashTestCharlie / VC4 400h
Taking the couplers out is a good idea Put something in the slot, then put on motor, the put in lead screw , then remove the spacer. That should give enough clearance
Rewire
Rewireโ€ข4w ago
gotta find something thin enough
CrashTestCharlie / VC4 400h
Some scraped first layers should work :kekw:
Rewire
Rewireโ€ข4w ago
So i'm hoping this will solve it. 1. I'm printing a PC material key for the z motor shafts to go into the coupler, to lock their rotation with the coupler. 2. I'm printing a TPU washer to allow the lead screws to bottom out in the coupler while removing them from the vibrations of the motor, which is why I assume they say "don't let the lead screw touch the motor shaft". ok well the z-tilts arent' changing much after cleaning and reseating the pei sheet and doing a few of them no having to re-do tolerance so here is hoping
Rewire
Rewireโ€ข4w ago
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Rewire
Rewireโ€ข4w ago
nope. the couplers are bottomed out on the tpu mounts i made, the lead screws can't go any farther down so i guess i must try to do something with the toolhead then
Helge Keck
Helge Keckโ€ข4w ago
TPU mounts?
Rewire
Rewireโ€ข4w ago
i made these to put in between the motor shaft and the bottom of the lead screws, so instead of them "floating" (and slipping down when doing poke tests, which I thought was my problem), they physically cannot go down further
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Rewire
Rewireโ€ข4w ago
but it didnt solve it
Helge Keck
Helge Keckโ€ข4w ago
what do you mean with slipping down?
Rewire
Rewireโ€ข4w ago
I thought that because my lead screws were greased, they were slipping in the coupler, leading to my failed poke tests and the large variations pointed out in this
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Rewire
Rewireโ€ข4w ago
unfortunately it seems my problem lies elsewhere the big variations only happen when the bed is at 85 C, idk if that tells you anything
Helge Keck
Helge Keckโ€ข4w ago
could also be the ssr
Rewire
Rewireโ€ข4w ago
how so my bed temp is surprisingly stable, it's rock solid when set to 85 at 85.2-85.3, doesn't vary beyond that
Rewire
Rewireโ€ข4w ago
ok, i see. hmm. ok let me try connection error....hmm, i have to port forward for this tool to work? unfortunately this tool isn't letting me connect to my ratos, even when run from source locally
archen
archenโ€ข4w ago
30!? You're over tighten deluxe
Rewire
Rewireโ€ข4w ago
well originally i wa being told "something is loose", soooo
archen
archenโ€ข4w ago
It doesn't mean you should torque the screws until thread stripes
Rewire
Rewireโ€ข4w ago
they're not stripped, they're just really tight
archen
archenโ€ข4w ago
It means you should check if everything is correctly mounted and no loose screws
Rewire
Rewireโ€ข4w ago
im on day 13 trying to fix this, and people told me "something is loose", when i repeatedly said "im confident everything is tightened properly", what would you have done?
archen
archenโ€ข4w ago
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archen
archenโ€ข4w ago
Sorry but you can't just torque as much as you can. There's specs for this purpose
Rewire
Rewireโ€ข4w ago
this is great, this is what i followed before people started telling me "something is loose" and i currently have a 3,000 dollar bricked 3d printer you can't say you wouldn't be frustrated too you would tighten things
archen
archenโ€ข4w ago
Take a break if you are frustrated. You won't solve anything in affect Leave for a couple of weeks and get back when you're ready
Rewire
Rewireโ€ข4w ago
i cannot do that, this printer was supposed to be up and making molds when it was finished currently, it's wasting my time i can't afford a 50k strasys focused on fixing this issue
archen
archenโ€ข4w ago
Sorry to hear that but there is no shortcut here.. You need to inspect or rebuild the whole Z motion if you can't find anything obvious... Everything points to mechanical issues.. Something is not right Or what is your thoughts?
Rewire
Rewireโ€ข4w ago
i did rebuild the z motion
archen
archenโ€ข4w ago
Bad design from rat rig?
Rewire
Rewireโ€ข4w ago
right now, helge thinks something wrong with my beacon and ssr noise since the issue happens when the bed is heated
Helge Keck
Helge Keckโ€ข4w ago
i said it can also be the ssr, we had already that case
Rewire
Rewireโ€ข4w ago
well, whatever the case, im working on that
archen
archenโ€ข4w ago
SSR is cheap and easy to replace. I would begin there Still i think it would be interesting to see how your cold bed mesh look like when using beacon contact instead of scan Then you are moving Z but SSR is not involved Compare scan and contact with SSR off It's a simple variable
Rewire
Rewireโ€ข4w ago
i've got that posted back from when i first set up
archen
archenโ€ข4w ago
Contact too?
Rewire
Rewireโ€ข4w ago
no, don't have that, keeps failing but havent tried a cold one
archen
archenโ€ข4w ago
Where you create a mesh using contact instead of scan Try a cold one Run a normal mesh (scan). Then a mesh using contact Compare those two
Rewire
Rewireโ€ข4w ago
this was the mesh i got when i originally set it up
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archen
archenโ€ข4w ago
Run a fresh mesh
Rewire
Rewireโ€ข4w ago
with the help of visualtech
archen
archenโ€ข4w ago
So you have the exact same conditions
Rewire
Rewireโ€ข4w ago
cold scan
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Rewire
Rewireโ€ข4w ago
still getting contact mesh failures on poke tests with the ssr almost off completely, with bed_temp set to 20
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Rewire
Rewireโ€ข4w ago
state is less than 4% constantly, it's cold out here in my shop
Rewire
Rewireโ€ข4w ago
@Helge Keck what am i supposed to be looking for here? also, i restarted the beacon poke test at 1 min in to show what the other user showed mikkel
archen
archenโ€ข4w ago
Why not set temp to 0 so the SSR stays off
Rewire
Rewireโ€ข4w ago
if you do that, doesn't it "wait for temp" to get close to the set point? i suppose i can try yes, like i thought, you can't do taht
Rewire
Rewireโ€ข4w ago
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Rewire
Rewireโ€ข4w ago
i could try 15 that did work, but it's just at 0% it's still on
Rewire
Rewireโ€ข4w ago
seems to be on a roll with the SSR at 0%, lots of consistent numbers, some even duplicates
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Rewire
Rewireโ€ข4w ago
not perfect but
Rewire
Rewireโ€ข4w ago
it got stuck for a bit
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Rewire
Rewireโ€ข4w ago
now it's continued
Rewire
Rewireโ€ข4w ago
anything looks wonky with tis?
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Arthur_C
Arthur_Cโ€ข4w ago
Just trying to pitch in (I did not read the whole thread). did you rule out flex in the hotend assembly? loose nozzle, Loose UHF spacer (in case of rapido UHF)? I strugled a while with a PTFE tube between hotend and extruder (in EVA toolhead) such that the hotende rested on the PTFE tube and not on the much harder plastic that the hotend mounts to on the Toolhead (if above makes any sence)
Rewire
Rewireโ€ข4w ago
i tightened the hotend according to rapido instructions, but beyond that, that's about all i've messed with uhf spacer....the extended nut that you put the nozzle into?
Arthur_C
Arthur_Cโ€ข4w ago
Yep,.. don''t know the official name
Rewire
Rewireโ€ข4w ago
i mean, i did it according to the instructions, 280c and i think 1.5 or 2.5 nM of torque so it should be correct cant remember the torque number but i did that
Arthur_C
Arthur_Cโ€ข4w ago
should be ok. What about the PTFE tube?
Rewire
Rewireโ€ข4w ago
the one inside the extruder and hotend? its the one that was provided with the kit i took the whole toolhead apart to tighten everything per instructions, so it should be correct, but at this point, i dont know trying to rule out the SSR noise thing almost done with this contact mesh
Rewire
Rewireโ€ข4w ago
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Rewire
Rewireโ€ข4w ago
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Rewire
Rewireโ€ข4w ago
they seem...similar? but the variance is way more with the contact not sure what to be looking for here gonna go lay down, been working on this for 9 hours at this point
archen
archenโ€ข4w ago
A big difference between contact and scan could indicate Z issues as mesh doesn't do any Z movements and contact does at each point
JaminCollins
JaminCollinsโ€ข4w ago
Contact z issues/variance can also be filament oozing
Godzilla_Bill_K4IBC
Godzilla_Bill_K4IBCโ€ข4w ago
Disconnect the control wire going to the SSR will always disable the SSR.
Rewire
Rewireโ€ข4w ago
redid all the linear rails and re-squared the frame this morning, failed again with interestingly similar poke variances, crazy how it gets the first poke done, then the second one is out of variance, so it re-tries and gets very similar numbers. i went and checked where it failed and it was the same location on X where it has failed in the past, and those screws on the linear rail seemed loose, so i tightened them, before the toolhead when moved manually almost seemed like it "slipped" when it went across that area, there was much less resistance compared to the rest of the rail, after tightening the 2 screws close to that location the x rail it seems to have similar resistance to the rest of the x gantry, so trying again
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Rewire
Rewireโ€ข4w ago
it completed
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Rewire
Rewireโ€ข4w ago
now ill try a first layer again
Rewire
Rewireโ€ข4w ago
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Rewire
Rewireโ€ข4w ago
It looks practically perfect, no z adjusting needed
Rewire
Rewireโ€ข4w ago
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Rewire
Rewireโ€ข4w ago
Time to try a second one
Rewire
Rewireโ€ข4w ago
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Rewire
Rewireโ€ข4w ago
Why doesn't it do a wipe or something before adjusting z-tilt? I can clearly see it messing up the Z tilt on some leftover filament I cleaned the nozzle and restarted the print Looking good
Rewire
Rewireโ€ข4w ago
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Rewire
Rewireโ€ข4w ago
Second one looks good
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Rewire
Rewireโ€ข4w ago
That didn't work
Rewire
Rewireโ€ข4w ago
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Rewire
Rewireโ€ข4w ago
But this is filament related
CrashTestCharlie / VC4 400h
So something was loose after all? :kekw:
Rewire
Rewireโ€ข4w ago
I have no idea at this point
Solution
Rewire
Rewireโ€ข4w ago
The only conclusion I came to was "maybe my x-rail was not mounted correctly or something"
Rewire
Rewireโ€ข4w ago
I had already loosened and retightened it several times before this
CrashTestCharlie / VC4 400h
Glad it's working.
Rewire
Rewireโ€ข4w ago
same, but running another first layer test after not touching it for a bit to make sure
Rewire
Rewireโ€ข4w ago
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Rewire
Rewireโ€ข4w ago
Seems good so I'm going to tackle filament tuning and a calibration cube later
CrashTestCharlie / VC4 400h
Mark this one as solved ๐ŸŽŠ
archen
archenโ€ข4w ago
Yay! ๐Ÿ™
Rewire
Rewireโ€ข4w ago
Yeah so, this is not fixed. I started having issues again last night, and now i can't get a good first layer again. Having to start over from scratch again. Printer just forgets settings or something. Z-offset is constantly changing. I am jealous of anyone that built their printer and got it printing in less than a few hours or whatever. I'm 15 days deep and regretting my purchase. Can't print anything. Spent all day yesterday trying to get decent prints out, bunch of filament bs, now I'm back to bad first layers.
miklschmidt
miklschmidtโ€ข4w ago
From your previous pictures it looks like you're having a bunch of problems and misattributing them to beacon / first layer issues. this is not just "filament related issues". that is severely borked.
Rewire
Rewireโ€ข4w ago
I've honestly never had problem like this ever, before my X1C, I had a taz 6, before that a MP select pro, and before that a ender. I've got no clue where to get started. I've never had any issues like what's going on here with my v4
miklschmidt
miklschmidtโ€ข4w ago
All printers where you haven't had to deal with wiring or the low level details of your setup
Rewire
Rewireโ€ข4w ago
Yeah I feel like I probably made a mistake trying to buy all the "upgrades" out of the box, I just thought it was more plug and play than this. 48V and filament sensor, or whatever.
miklschmidt
miklschmidtโ€ข4w ago
This could be missing (or not properly sized) PTFE tube between extruder and hotend, bad extruder tension, completely borked PA settings, wrong thermistor configuration, bigger nozzle than sliced for etc etc. Is your nozzle properly hot tightened? Have you checked if there are any leaks from the hotend etc?
Rewire
Rewireโ€ข4w ago
The PTFE is the one that was provided, i've got the 2.5mm ptfe from the kit, i've not done anything with PA, i'm pretty sure my thermistor is set up correctly (i followed the guide), and my nozzle is set to 0.6 in both the slicer and firmware the only thing i'm not "sure" about is the ratos setup defaults to CHT nozzle when you select the .6, and im pretty sure it's a "regular" nozzle, with one hole, not 3 my cold pulls look perfect, so i dont think it's a nozzle issue or leaks
miklschmidt
miklschmidtโ€ข4w ago
That latency concerns me too, that's atypical for a v-core, which may indicate z-motion issues and/or electrical problems however i can't be much more specific than that.
Rewire
Rewireโ€ข4w ago
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miklschmidt
miklschmidtโ€ข4w ago
I don't mean the ID/OD of your reverse bowden, i mean the length of it between the hotend and the extruder. It should fit very snuggly in there and you should chamfer the ends. The piece between your extruder and hotend should NOT be a 2.5mm ID tube
Rewire
Rewireโ€ข4w ago
The one with the kit is what i used
miklschmidt
miklschmidtโ€ข4w ago
It's should be 1.9 or 2mm.
Rewire
Rewireโ€ข4w ago
it didnt have to be cut or anything
miklschmidt
miklschmidtโ€ข4w ago
That's most likely a huge part of your problem. If you used the wrong tube
Rewire
Rewireโ€ข4w ago
? there was a small one in the toolhead bag
miklschmidt
miklschmidtโ€ข4w ago
Ok so you used the separate pre-cut piece that goes between the orbiter and the rapido?
Rewire
Rewireโ€ข4w ago
yeah
Helge Keck
Helge Keckโ€ข4w ago
this precut pieces are sometimes a tiny bit to short
miklschmidt
miklschmidtโ€ข4w ago
Good, sounded like you used the 2.5mm ID one for a second ๐Ÿ˜„ It's prolly worth checking yeah.
Helge Keck
Helge Keckโ€ข4w ago
if you put the extruder on top of the ptfe tube, there shoul dstill be a o.5mm gap between extruder and top plate, this makes sure the ptfe tube isnt too short a tiny bit of comrpession is fine and desired
Rewire
Rewireโ€ข4w ago
i feel like im chasing ghosts, even though i followed the guide to the letter, even down to the provided torque chart, this is very depressing.
Rewire
Rewireโ€ข4w ago
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Rewire
Rewireโ€ข4w ago
i used this small tube that was in the toolhead kit i will have to do that hotend soak that mikkel suggested, can't get ratos to calibrate again....
Rewire
Rewireโ€ข4w ago
doing this again....
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blacksmithforlife
blacksmithforlifeโ€ข4w ago
it isn't chasing ghosts, you are just becoming aware of all the various causes of things. To use a bad car analogy - you are used to a honda civic, and you just bought a ferrari and putting it together yourself.
Rewire
Rewireโ€ข4w ago
i just want a printer that prints and it's really depressing that despite following the guide, my printer doesnt print for over 2 weeks now. it's never printed anyways. i'm going to try and heat soak and then ratos calibrate and see if i can get decent first layers again....
miklschmidt
miklschmidtโ€ข4w ago
Just wait till you find the cause and it turns out to be some silly stupid mistake. This is part of the DIY experience.
Rewire
Rewireโ€ข4w ago
like why does my z-tilt always need to be adjusted, is that normal?
miklschmidt
miklschmidtโ€ข4w ago
What do you mean by "always need to be adjusted" exactly?
blacksmithforlife
blacksmithforlifeโ€ข4w ago
because after a print the steppers are turned off, thus losing their position. That's why each print you need to redo z-tilt. It is normal
miklschmidt
miklschmidtโ€ข4w ago
it always runs, and yes that is on purpose. When the motors power off they lose positioning and default to the closest full step position. That's how steppers work
Rewire
Rewireโ€ข4w ago
ok gotta get my kid ready for school....have to come back to this.... going to try and ratos calibrate with the heat soak in the meantime....
miklschmidt
miklschmidtโ€ข4w ago
I'm pretty sure you're chasing the wrong rabbit here. This symptom of the first sample being way off from the second is pretty common though, so much so that there's often a "SAMPLES_DROP" option to discard the first (or more) samples when probing.
Rewire
Rewireโ€ข4w ago
how do i turn that on
miklschmidt
miklschmidtโ€ข4w ago
That's news to me.. It should not change your nozzle type when you change the nozzle diameter. I would also STRONGLY recommend you start with a 0.4mm nozzle. 0.6mm are harder to tune, and much easier to fuck up as everything defaults to 0.4 (slicers, guides etc). it shouldn't be necessary at the speeds the calibration runs at. You can't "turn it on" without modifying the macros. Also @Rewire have you updated all the packages? Can't find any message from you about software updates.
Rewire
Rewireโ€ข4w ago
Yes, always am on the latest versions, first thing I do before I start doing anything with the printer every day only reason i wanted to do 0.6 was to get larger prints out faster higher layer heights and all that, i bought this to make large molds, so i'll have to post-process them anyways
Rewire
Rewireโ€ข4w ago
yep, i need to step away from this for a bit before i get upset again
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Rewire
Rewireโ€ข4w ago
ill come back and mess with it later
miklschmidt
miklschmidtโ€ข4w ago
This is just super random and not a "first sample is off" thing. Z axis looks unreliable Perfectly valid, however it'll be much easier to swap in a 0.6 once you've got everything working properly.
Rewire
Rewireโ€ข3w ago
Not sure how to fix short of replacing all the Z axis parts, none of them are loose, I know cause I've gone over them about 20 times now My rails were like butter so I don't think that's it Some of my lead screws are visibly wobbly but the sliding screw (old man hands?) inserts should fix that right
blacksmithforlife
blacksmithforlifeโ€ข3w ago
How wobbly?
Rewire
Rewireโ€ข3w ago
I'll see if I can get a video when I get home
miklschmidt
miklschmidtโ€ข3w ago
You're sure it's not just a dirty nozzle or oozing? Nozzle that needs to be hottightened? something like that? Is there any play in your hotend assembly?
Rewire
Rewireโ€ข3w ago
no filament in the nozzle, always do a cold pull before trying calibration it was doing this long before i ever got filament in the machine it might be the x carriage, but i dont know how to test that there's no loose screws, that im confident of
miklschmidt
miklschmidtโ€ข3w ago
Just noticed the gantry here, i can pretty much guarantee you'd get better results with a 2020. It looks like it has the rigidity of a wet noodle. If you grab the nozzle and give it a wiggle (up/down side to side etc), is there any play?
Rewire
Rewireโ€ข3w ago
it's the spannsystems, i thought that might be it, but let me try wiggling the nozzle ok....it's somthing with the toolhead or the toolhead carriage side to side nothing, but up down, it's moving a bit, but if i put my hand on the gantry, that's not moving so it's the carriage or something related to that
miklschmidt
miklschmidtโ€ข3w ago
At least something to look into!
Rewire
Rewireโ€ข3w ago
but i can't fix that besides replacing the carriage, right? i mean, i have the extra one meant for idex....
miklschmidt
miklschmidtโ€ข3w ago
You don't even know what's moving yet If you want my recommendation, remove the flimsy tube, put the 2020 in This could easily be a case of premature modding, and that design from spannsysteme is one of the worse ones i've seen All rigidity lost
Rewire
Rewireโ€ข3w ago
I can try swapping it out wanna see if there's something up with the carriage first, will have to look later tonight
archen
archenโ€ข3w ago
Why would you even use the spannsystem tube. What's the benifits? Ti tube fine but that tube still in alu makes no sense at all, I'm all with mikl, remove that tube.
miklschmidt
miklschmidtโ€ข3w ago
People do it to lose weight, because they believe it'll make their input shaper numbers go up, which it does by a couple hundred points, but it also results in significantly worse print quality because it's so flimsy. They can be a very decent upgrade if done right (no loss of rigidity and tortional stiffness), but it's a minimal gain. Get a poorly designed tube like this one (sorry if i'm offending anyone, but i'm tired of these, it's lazy and a bit of a money grab) and it's a straight downgrade. The Toro TI tube is pretty sweet, i agree.
Helge Keck
Helge Keckโ€ข3w ago
imo the little inout shaper gain you get from such tubes isnt worth the money at all. barely noticeable in daily printing. only helpful if you want to push the printer to the absolute limit
miklschmidt
miklschmidtโ€ข3w ago
People need to understand that max recommended accel != max accel.
Helge Keck
Helge Keckโ€ข3w ago
yep if there would be a graph that shows money per performance, nothing will ever beat a cheap alu extrusion but i can understand why people are trying it, modding a printer is fun
miklschmidt
miklschmidtโ€ข3w ago
100%
Rewire
Rewireโ€ข3w ago
first printer like this, thought the mod would amp up my speeds, but it's redundant if i can't even print in the frist place lol gonna see if the carriage is the issue, but probably going to take it out and return it same reason i went for 48V and had to buy new power supplies, speed, but then that led to software issues helge helped me sort out plus the mirrored stepper driver plug issue
Helge Keck
Helge Keckโ€ข3w ago
it does ramp up your max accel a tiny bit, but thats only for the outer perimeters, for the rest of the print you can go full blast anyway. so the final print time doesnt really change
Rewire
Rewireโ€ข3w ago
at this point, i just want a print, at all lol
Helge Keck
Helge Keckโ€ข3w ago
we will get to it i know its anyoing at the beginning but wou will learn a lot until the printer prints the firs ttime i doubt its the carriage, im pretty sure its the gantry
Rewire
Rewireโ€ข3w ago
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Rewire
Rewireโ€ข3w ago
just so people dont htink im crazy about the extrusion issue i had
Rewire
Rewireโ€ข3w ago
With filament
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Rewire
Rewireโ€ข3w ago
well it's not the carriage, that thing is solid.... mentally preparing myself to disassemble this x gantry and re assemble it.... if i end up still having issues after this i might go wacko
Helge Keck
Helge Keckโ€ข3w ago
please show me the other side of the ptfe tube, one side should be chamfered, if it is then you have put it in the wrong way
Rewire
Rewireโ€ข3w ago
the other side seems sharp but let me take it out gotta take off the extruder again, just put it back on
Helge Keck
Helge Keckโ€ข3w ago
idk if ratrig chamfers them if its not chamfered you should do it for the side where the extruder sits
Rewire
Rewireโ€ข3w ago
The other side is clean cut
Rewire
Rewireโ€ข3w ago
Turned it around for this photo My hands aren't still enough
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Helge Keck
Helge Keckโ€ข3w ago
also check, if you put the extruder onto the ptfe tube if there is still a tiny gap between extruder and top plate
Rewire
Rewireโ€ข3w ago
This is the side that I've had towards the extruder It doesn't really look any different other than being a little bit roughed up from being shoved in and out of the extruder
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Rewire
Rewireโ€ข3w ago
Sorry I'm a little bit confused on what you mean by this It sits flush against the tool head plate The way I've done it is I push the PTFE tube all the way down into the hot end and then put the extruder on top of it
Helge Keck
Helge Keckโ€ข3w ago
this could probably mean that the ptfe tube can be too short when putting the extruder on top of the ptfe tube, there shoul dbe a izzy bizzy tiny gap between extruder and top plate, like 0.3 mm or so
Rewire
Rewireโ€ข3w ago
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Helge Keck
Helge Keckโ€ข3w ago
this ensures that the ptfe tbe isnt too short
Rewire
Rewireโ€ข3w ago
This is it pushed all the way down
Rewire
Rewireโ€ข3w ago
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Rewire
Rewireโ€ข3w ago
This is before screwing in the extruder
Helge Keck
Helge Keckโ€ข3w ago
do yu have spare ptfe tube with 2mm ID? if not get a peice
Rewire
Rewireโ€ข3w ago
No, unfortunately All the PTFE I have is 2.5 ID
Helge Keck
Helge Keckโ€ข3w ago
i suggest you are buying spare belts, spare ptfe tube and probably some spare bearings
Rewire
Rewireโ€ข3w ago
I think...
Helge Keck
Helge Keckโ€ข3w ago
when using such a printer you shul dhave that stuff available at any time ptfe tube do wear out, belts as well, and bearings as well
Rewire
Rewireโ€ข3w ago
Wait Maybe I do
Rewire
Rewireโ€ข3w ago
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Helge Keck
Helge Keckโ€ข3w ago
thats it
Rewire
Rewireโ€ข3w ago
I bought these a while ago when I was making y splitters for my X1Cs Well I can replace that later for now let me try and swap out this x Gantry and see what that does One problem at a time Hmm.
Rewire
Rewireโ€ข3w ago
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Rewire
Rewireโ€ข3w ago
I mean I don't think oil would let it slide around would it
blacksmithforlife
blacksmithforlifeโ€ข3w ago
No
Rewire
Rewireโ€ข3w ago
Or maybe that's grease
Helge Keck
Helge Keckโ€ข3w ago
thats fine just dont lick it up
Rewire
Rewireโ€ข3w ago
dont worry ill stick to the windows for licking It's pretty wobbly once you undo the linear rail from it
Rewire
Rewireโ€ข3w ago
Rewire
Rewireโ€ข3w ago
I mean I'm not using a ton of force there maybe like five nm or so
blacksmithforlife
blacksmithforlifeโ€ข3w ago
as Mikel said, rigidity of a wet noodle
Rewire
Rewireโ€ข3w ago
im going to try one last thing before i put myself in the position of having to re-do all my belts and take apart this x gantry joiner putting m3 washers in the linear rail to prevent it from moving back and forth when it's tightened down nvm, they are too large
archen
archenโ€ข3w ago
Seriously, just change that tube. That's insanely wobbly.. Imagine how gantry will look when toolhead is working in Y direction with high accels.
miklschmidt
miklschmidtโ€ข3w ago
48V is a worthwhile straight upgrade with no downsides though! All it does is double your max velocity at full torque however, but that's really nice for travel moves. I feel this, been there so many times ๐Ÿ˜‚
Rewire
Rewireโ€ข3w ago
I think I'm going to take my bed off before I end up damaging something on that
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Rewire
Rewireโ€ข3w ago
oh right....the wires at the back ugh snippers....
archen
archenโ€ข3w ago
After you solved this issues you will know your printer well ๐Ÿ˜๐Ÿ‘Š
Helge Keck
Helge Keckโ€ข3w ago
put a towel on top
Rewire
Rewireโ€ข3w ago
want to avoid any possible damage. going to put it on carboard to the side
Rewire
Rewireโ€ข3w ago
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Rewire
Rewireโ€ข3w ago
this isnt working, moving to a big blanket
Rewire
Rewireโ€ข3w ago
Halfway
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archen
archenโ€ข3w ago
๐Ÿ™
Rewire
Rewireโ€ข3w ago
Honestly not a torture I would wish even on my worst enemy
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Rewire
Rewireโ€ข3w ago
Ok let me re do my belts and bed mesh sigh ๐Ÿคฆ
Rewire
Rewireโ€ข3w ago
well i got this
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Rewire
Rewireโ€ข3w ago
But then realized I did this
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Rewire
Rewireโ€ข3w ago
was wondering why i had to tighten my lower so much
archen
archenโ€ข3w ago
What am I missing? Ahh, I see now
Rewire
Rewireโ€ข3w ago
yep pulled a switcharoo on myself
archen
archenโ€ข3w ago
I feel you man
Rewire
Rewireโ€ข3w ago
easy fix tho for this one
archen
archenโ€ข3w ago
Yeah
Rewire
Rewireโ€ข3w ago
couple bolts and screws
archen
archenโ€ข3w ago
Om surprised you got so clean IS ๐Ÿ˜…
Rewire
Rewireโ€ข3w ago
ik thats what i was thinkin but not going to run with it
archen
archenโ€ข3w ago
Nah it will be a lot of issues ๐Ÿ˜‚
Rewire
Rewireโ€ข3w ago
ok ok
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archen
archenโ€ข3w ago
Huh that's strange. Did you do belt tension before attaching hybrid belts?
Rewire
Rewireโ€ข3w ago
yeah, the 2 peaks is weird
Helge Keck
Helge Keckโ€ข3w ago
its not weird you need to harmonize the y and x peak
Rewire
Rewireโ€ข3w ago
on IS?
Helge Keck
Helge Keckโ€ข3w ago
yes, the swingf atm with diff frequencies by changing hte tenions you can bring them to the same drequency acatually, sorry not correct havin two peaks can be normal in this case just use these values they are not bad you can fine tune them later if you want
archen
archenโ€ข3w ago
Isn't the hybrid belts too lose?
Helge Keck
Helge Keckโ€ข3w ago
these values are already good, let him print first a bit no need to chase perfection at this point
archen
archenโ€ข3w ago
True Feels like all "Z issues" will actually be this custom tube with zero rigdity Will be interesting to see beacon results now
Rewire
Rewireโ€ข3w ago
the contact mesh seems to be going fine so far did still have some sample exceeds tolerance earlier but still completed fine
archen
archenโ€ข3w ago
๐Ÿคž
Rewire
Rewireโ€ข3w ago
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Rewire
Rewireโ€ข3w ago
Seems to have completed I will have to try a first layer test later
Helge Keck
Helge Keckโ€ข3w ago
well, thats an improvement
archen
archenโ€ข3w ago
nice
TheTik
TheTikโ€ข3w ago
Software has premature optimization, 3d printers have premature upgrades ๐Ÿ˜„
Rewire
Rewireโ€ข3w ago
got a first layer down, now time to try another got some time to work on it printer has amnesia again ๐Ÿ˜ข sigh 7th try doing a first layer after that first one, already nuked my beacon cfg once, cant get anything to stick trying with scan compenssation turned off
Helge Keck
Helge Keckโ€ข3w ago
wait what do you meant you cant get it to stick? this can jsut mean that your filament doesnt stick to the build plate
Rewire
Rewireโ€ข3w ago
the nozzle is persistently too hight
Helge Keck
Helge Keckโ€ข3w ago
doesnt necessarily mean you have first layer issues
Rewire
Rewireโ€ข3w ago
i set a lower offset, it forgets it the next print
Helge Keck
Helge Keckโ€ข3w ago
please share your prtiner.cfg
Rewire
Rewireโ€ข3w ago
using SAVE_Z_OFFSET does nothing
Helge Keck
Helge Keckโ€ข3w ago
and the ratos.varibale.cfg
Rewire
Rewireโ€ข3w ago
Helge Keck
Helge Keckโ€ข3w ago
please shar ethe console output after you run save_z_offset
Rewire
Rewireโ€ข3w ago
[Variables] idex_applied_offset = 1 idex_xcontrolpoint = 213 idex_xoffset = 0.0 idex_ycontrolpoint = 532 idex_yoffset = 0.0 idex_zcontrolpoint = 10 idex_zoffset = 0.0 idex_zoffsetcontrolpoint = 0 nozzle_expansion_applied_offset = 0 nozzle_expansion_coefficient_multiplier = 0.07482993197096552 nozzle_expansion_coefficient_t0 = 0.06281249999548599 nozzle_expansion_coefficient_t1 = 0.06 t0_filament = ('', '', 0)
Rewire
Rewireโ€ข3w ago
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Helge Keck
Helge Keckโ€ข3w ago
aha
Rewire
Rewireโ€ข3w ago
but after saving that, then running a new print, it went back to .004
Helge Keck
Helge Keckโ€ข3w ago
you do not run save_z_offset you jsut click the save button, tahts wrong
Rewire
Rewireโ€ข3w ago
no i did before this, this was jus thte last try
Helge Keck
Helge Keckโ€ข3w ago
you need to run `SAVE_Z_OFFSETยด in the console then show me the correct console output
Rewire
Rewireโ€ข3w ago
right i know i saw when you told that to the other guy ive been doing that i turned off beacon scan compensation and now it's fine, it seems
Helge Keck
Helge Keckโ€ข3w ago
you let now fight the temp offset compensation against the offset you have configured you are basically using two methods at the ssme time
Helge Keck
Helge Keckโ€ข3w ago
set this to 0
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Helge Keck
Helge Keckโ€ข3w ago
then rerun the first layer and run SAVE_Z_OFFSET do not use the save button on the ui
Rewire
Rewireโ€ข3w ago
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Rewire
Rewireโ€ข3w ago
Trying a second now, this one worked after setting scan compensation to false
Helge Keck
Helge Keckโ€ข3w ago
you messed the config already up you are using two different methods at the same time you need to decide if you want to use the temperature offset compensation or not you have basically two offset methods that work together, thats very difficult to handle, if it all
Rewire
Rewireโ€ข3w ago
so delete, and do one or the other
Helge Keck
Helge Keckโ€ข3w ago
i recommend to set the vlaue to zero in the image i jsut shared then retuning the first layer with the SAVE_Z_OFFSET and using purely the temp compensation i also suggest to turn heat soaking on one sec
Rewire
Rewireโ€ข3w ago
i have tht commented out currently
Helge Keck
Helge Keckโ€ข3w ago
no wonder it doesnt work hotend heat soaking is key bed heat soaiking technically as well, especially if you print in heated chambers
Rewire
Rewireโ€ข3w ago
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Rewire
Rewireโ€ข3w ago
Only really having issues at the beginning and ending of lines now
Helge Keck
Helge Keckโ€ข3w ago
good, now run SAVE_Z_OFFSET and share the console output please i recommend to clean the build plate with dish soap and hot water with a sponge
Rewire
Rewireโ€ข3w ago
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Helge Keck
Helge Keckโ€ข3w ago
thats sometimes neede for new build paltes this looks very good also, how fast do you print the first layer and at which temp?
Rewire
Rewireโ€ข3w ago
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Rewire
Rewireโ€ข3w ago
225, PLA, 50mm/s
Helge Keck
Helge Keckโ€ข3w ago
additionaly you can try to raise the temp only for the first layer to 230 for example and maybe reduce the first layer speed to 30 for the perimeter
CrashTestCharlie / VC4 400h
About that little booger on the end, is there a way to retract and quick move to avoid blobbing?
Rewire
Rewireโ€ข3w ago
its just at the start and end of lines that it's almost like it's not pushing out enough at the start of a line i have retraction turned off
Helge Keck
Helge Keckโ€ข3w ago
PLA and textured plates do not harmonize always very well
Rewire
Rewireโ€ข3w ago
i have some petg i can put
Helge Keck
Helge Keckโ€ข3w ago
try to clean the plate first before continueing
Rewire
Rewireโ€ข3w ago
i can clean it again, i did do a dish soap wash when i first got it, then only scraper, gloves or ipa since
Helge Keck
Helge Keckโ€ข3w ago
oh, then you can skip that if you have some adhesive issues jsut try to print the first layer slower and a tiny bit hotter thats not a z offset issue
Rewire
Rewireโ€ข3w ago
i have been printing for a very long time, i know all the good practices, thats why this experience has been so frustrating just never built my own
Helge Keck
Helge Keckโ€ข3w ago
well, filaments and buildplates do not harmonize always perfectly
Rewire
Rewireโ€ข3w ago
i could put glue down but
Helge Keck
Helge Keckโ€ข3w ago
this jsut looks like a filament tuning issue now
Rewire
Rewireโ€ข3w ago
i know that would fix it trying to avoid that for this printer though
Helge Keck
Helge Keckโ€ข3w ago
slower and hotter
Rewire
Rewireโ€ข3w ago
i found this, would like to add it, instead of skirts https://github.com/kyleisah/Klipper-Adaptive-Meshing-Purging
GitHub
GitHub - kyleisah/Klipper-Adaptive-Meshing-Purging: A unique leveli...
A unique leveling solution for Klipper-enabled 3D printers! - kyleisah/Klipper-Adaptive-Meshing-Purging
Helge Keck
Helge Keckโ€ข3w ago
ratos has this built in already
Rewire
Rewireโ€ข3w ago
oh does it? i thought the primeblob was it
Helge Keck
Helge Keckโ€ข3w ago
trust me, the primeblob is superior, especially with the heat soaking time it cleans the nozzle and you wont get any ozzing issues
Rewire
Rewireโ€ข3w ago
right but it does it so far from the print
Helge Keck
Helge Keckโ€ข3w ago
however, the prime blob is not the issue here raise your travel speed you have a fast printer now you can easily use 500mm/s or 800mm/s travel speed with high accels
Rewire
Rewireโ€ข3w ago
48v + hybrid so i should be doing like the 22k my input shaper says
Helge Keck
Helge Keckโ€ข3w ago
no, the inout shaper does nto limit your accel its jsut the max speed for outer perimeters before you get ringin you can go full blast for travel moves and infill
Rewire
Rewireโ€ข3w ago
oh well idk what full blast is lol
Helge Keck
Helge Keckโ€ข3w ago
a lot :kekw:
Rewire
Rewireโ€ข3w ago
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Rewire
Rewireโ€ข3w ago
this is what i have it set to right now
Helge Keck
Helge Keckโ€ข3w ago
well, these are not the filament settings, jsut the printer limitations with 48v you can go much faster than that jsut set the travel speed to 500 for the start you can raise it later
Rewire
Rewireโ€ข3w ago
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Rewire
Rewireโ€ข3w ago
oh it was already set to 500
Helge Keck
Helge Keckโ€ข3w ago
and reduce the first layer speed for pla to 30
Rewire
Rewireโ€ข3w ago
default profiles have that
Helge Keck
Helge Keckโ€ข3w ago
trust me, you are close to printing now default profiles are conservative
Rewire
Rewireโ€ข3w ago
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Rewire
Rewireโ€ข3w ago
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Helge Keck
Helge Keckโ€ข3w ago
after you get a bit familiar with the printer you can raise all the speeds and accels
Rewire
Rewireโ€ข3w ago
Messed up the skirt but the print seems good
Rewire
Rewireโ€ข3w ago
No description
No description
Helge Keck
Helge Keckโ€ข3w ago
as i said, PLA and textured paltes can be difficult sometimes
Rewire
Rewireโ€ข3w ago
Yea ๐Ÿ‘
Helge Keck
Helge Keckโ€ข3w ago
but i think you can run now some test prints
Rewire
Rewireโ€ข3w ago
Just want to try and get a benchy out
Helge Keck
Helge Keckโ€ข3w ago
and see your baby printing also, im a big dimafix fan once applied everything sticks to the plate, no matter whcih type of filament and it doesnt leave any marks on the prints
Rewire
Rewireโ€ข3w ago
dimafix....ill have to look it up i have my own solution that's water soluable, just havent gotten around to patent/manufacturing it.....it works really well but the residue on the build plate is ugly
Helge Keck
Helge Keckโ€ข3w ago
yeah, used simialr stuff earlier in the days
Rewire
Rewireโ€ข3w ago
you can refresh it with water and reuse it, which is cool
Helge Keck
Helge Keckโ€ข3w ago
dimafix is jsut superior to such things, invisible, one can lastrs a year at least, and releases the print when cooling down i apply it once in a month or so so easy to use
Rewire
Rewireโ€ข3w ago
Sad, fell off the plate
No description
Rewire
Rewireโ€ข3w ago
Let me put some stuff down
Helge Keck
Helge Keckโ€ข3w ago
yeah, adhession issues not related to the printer itself or the z offset
Rewire
Rewireโ€ข3w ago
Yea
archen
archenโ€ข3w ago
What's your cooling settings?
Helge Keck
Helge Keckโ€ข3w ago
did you tried to reduce the first layer speed?
Rewire
Rewireโ€ข3w ago
Yeah this is with 30 I put my mix down, trying again
Rewire
Rewireโ€ข3w ago
No description
archen
archenโ€ข3w ago
Bed temp?
Rewire
Rewireโ€ข3w ago
60 My mix fixed the skirt lifting
Rewire
Rewireโ€ข3w ago
No description
Helge Keck
Helge Keckโ€ข3w ago
at least the zoffset seems to eb stable now beacon noise has been fixed as well
Rewire
Rewireโ€ข3w ago
Right yeah
Helge Keck
Helge Keckโ€ข3w ago
i see light on the horizon for you
Rewire
Rewireโ€ข3w ago
Gonna return the spannsystems Just no good
archen
archenโ€ข3w ago
Yeah that's probably your main issue Try 65c bed.. I think I'm running 68 on my pla
Rewire
Rewireโ€ข3w ago
No description
Rewire
Rewireโ€ข3w ago
Zoop
No description
Rewire
Rewireโ€ข3w ago
Lemme try 68
Helge Keck
Helge Keckโ€ข3w ago
dude, jsut try PETG :kekw: this will stick for sure
Rewire
Rewireโ€ข3w ago
Ok ok lol
Helge Keck
Helge Keckโ€ข3w ago
and get a can of dimafix, trust me
Rewire
Rewireโ€ข3w ago
still need to set up my sensor button to do unload
Rewire
Rewireโ€ข3w ago
No description
Rewire
Rewireโ€ข3w ago
Ugh
Helge Keck
Helge Keckโ€ข3w ago
well, that profile needs tuning
Rewire
Rewireโ€ข3w ago
yeah
Helge Keck
Helge Keckโ€ข3w ago
but i tihnk its safe to say your issues are solved you could mark the thread as solved
Rewire
Rewireโ€ข3w ago
I think it already is, but I came back to it
archen
archenโ€ข3w ago
There should be a warning about using those tube's on a vc4 ๐Ÿ˜ฉ
Rewire
Rewireโ€ข3w ago
Lowered flow to .95, increased my temp by 20c (lol), and bed by 5c
Rewire
Rewireโ€ข3w ago
No description
Rewire
Rewireโ€ข3w ago
Ok so far
Helge Keck
Helge Keckโ€ข3w ago
nice this is also the correct color for the first benchy
Rewire
Rewireโ€ข3w ago
Yes
CrashTestCharlie / VC4 400h
The black rr plate can love petg a little too much.
Rewire
Rewireโ€ข3w ago
yay
No description
No description
Rewire
Rewireโ€ข3w ago
Bunch of vfa though Happy I got a print
Rewire
Rewireโ€ข3w ago
I'll sort this out later
archen
archenโ€ข3w ago
Nice ๐Ÿ‘Š
miklschmidt
miklschmidtโ€ข3w ago
on 48V like 2000 mm/s at 20k. tbf i've been quite loud warning about these bad designs for years but nobody listens to me ๐Ÿ˜‚
Helge Keck
Helge Keckโ€ข3w ago
try louder next time
Rewire
Rewireโ€ข3w ago
I'm sorry my first diy printer I just thought lighter = better ๐Ÿ˜ข
Helge Keck
Helge Keckโ€ข3w ago
most people come to the same conclusion
miklschmidt
miklschmidtโ€ข3w ago
This is extremely common and tends to be perpetuated by some speed focused youtubers and other types influencers in the space. It's an easy mistake to make, don't blame yourself. However i sorta blame Spannsysteme for making these things with no testing.
Rewire
Rewireโ€ข3w ago
I am curious if my thermistor is off or something, that benchy was printed at 265 for PETG....i have the jumper in the sbb42 and the setting in ratos pt1000 but i was having issues with 240-250 just not enough melt and slower than my x1c, but PID tune says it's correct gonna charge my thermal camera and check....
archen
archenโ€ข3w ago
I'm printing PETG at 260. Don't compare temps with other hotends Do a temptower
Rewire
Rewireโ€ข3w ago
is it cause of the long melt zone? rapido long af
archen
archenโ€ข3w ago
I would say its probably mostly because how the temp is measured That's why you need to do temp towers and not copy others settings
Rewire
Rewireโ€ข3w ago
i see i see
archen
archenโ€ข3w ago
I usually start of with a temp tower. Then flow
CrashTestCharlie / VC4 400h
You using the .0"6 black nozzle? It's steel, takes more oomph to get the heat to the plastic. So your temps would trend high
miklschmidt
miklschmidtโ€ข3w ago
indeed, needing an extra 10-15 degrees is common with hardened steel nozzles, and they do impact flow rate. That's why you see people preferring tungsten carbide nozzles or Bondtech's bi-metal cht nozzles. It's worse on the Rapido 2 as the thermistor placement and exposure to the outside is really not ideal. That issue has been fixed in the Rapido ACE as well as the Rapido 2F the ACE is superior to the 2F though
Arthur_C
Arthur_Cโ€ข3w ago
Crap,.... just installed the Rapido 2,... need to upgrade again? Rapido 2 UHF is getting superspeed, dispites it short comings ๐Ÿ˜‰
miklschmidt
miklschmidtโ€ข3w ago
No it's still a pretty great hotend despite it's flaws, nothing is perfect ๐Ÿ™‚
CrashTestCharlie / VC4 400h
Is there measurements for the load/unload macros for the ace yet?
miklschmidt
miklschmidtโ€ข3w ago
@Mitsuma what do you use?
Rewire
Rewireโ€ข3w ago
am i not supposed to uncomment the PID tunes?
Rewire
Rewireโ€ข3w ago
No description
Rewire
Rewireโ€ข3w ago
when they are generated, they are commented out
Mitsuma
Mitsumaโ€ข3w ago
I havent swapped too much but so far I just use RatOS defaults. for rapido uhf
Arthur_C
Arthur_Cโ€ข3w ago
The ACE is a couple of mm shorter, I thought. Probably good enough for a drop in replacement or do you use some washers to compensate that, @Mitsuma?
Mitsuma
Mitsumaโ€ข3w ago
it comes with a 3mm spacer you put on top, you need longer M2.5 screws, 8mm instead of 6mm tho
miklschmidt
miklschmidtโ€ข3w ago
klipper will do that automatically when you run pid calibration and save it exactly
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