Having issues with my 500

Looking for some help with my mesh. I've done the leveling guide several times, with no luch. It's starting to frustrate me. When I heat the bed it goes to +1mm at 105, but the belly is still there.
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33 Replies
dyocis
dyocisOP2mo ago
This is at 105
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dyocis
dyocisOP2mo ago
I've got a titanium X on the way that I'm hoping will fix the bulge, but the belly has me stumped
DapperDangus
DapperDangus2mo ago
Mine looks pretty much exactly like yours. Trying to order a toro tube as well but they are out of stock for the 500s unless I buy internationally ($$$). This is mine cold vs 110 fully soaked.
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DapperDangus
DapperDangus2mo ago
Probably just how it is with the 500s.
dyocis
dyocisOP2mo ago
I guess the beacon takes care of most of it, but IDEX is going to require a much better surface/gantry to use mirror and duplex. Like I said, the dip is more of a concern than the bulge. I just cant figure out where its coming from. I ran like 30 meshes trying to tweak it out of there, but nothing I did changed that dip at all.
DapperDangus
DapperDangus2mo ago
When you heated your bed. Did you wait till all your toolhead components stabilized in temp to do your mesh? Beacon, ebb, extruder. .207 cold is pretty good anyways I got my down to .196 but it doesn’t matter much when you add heat. As we are finding out Mine was a bit wonky for a bit but after a few prints, things seemed to settle into place. Sorry I'm not much help lol. I would like to see your mesh after you get your titanium tho
dyocis
dyocisOP2mo ago
No worries, I've been bending my x gantry and got it down to .252 ..lol
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dyocis
dyocisOP2mo ago
I still have that belly though. Maybe somebody has an idea of what the problem might be
ZIMZ
ZIMZ2mo ago
I'd leave it at that @dyocis , that is great for now. Jus tprint
dyocis
dyocisOP2mo ago
@ZIMZ Any idea what those low spots are? I'm completely stumped
ZIMZ
ZIMZ2mo ago
I think you may have to adjust the back rear the high spot on the left side. Is your bed sheet and sticker flat on that side no bubbles in the magnetic sticker?
dyocis
dyocisOP2mo ago
Nope, no bubbles. I rolled it with a mat roller when I put it on.
ZIMZ
ZIMZ2mo ago
I think that left side will need you to follow the frame alignment guide. I think you'd loosen and pull up to get that edge down. Honestly, just print, if I had, I'd be happy. Just print for now, the bed will change over time as you print. If it does not get a little better, come back here
dyocis
dyocisOP2mo ago
I'm going to leave it alone for now. If I have any issues when I get IDEX I'll come back to it. I think my 300 voron is about the same, so I can deal with it...lol Thanks @ZIMZ and @DapperDangus for the help!
DapperDangus
DapperDangus2mo ago
No problem. I spent an incredible amount of time trying to get my mesh below .2 which ended up creating more problems since I was messing with it so much. Just want my titanium tube so my gantry doesn’t sag so much. Print for a bit and break it in. Things will settle into place and the belts apparently should be rechecked after about 24 hours of print time due to stretch.
ZIMZ
ZIMZ2mo ago
@dyocis , this was my thought as well. Ratrig support is also helping me but I plan on pulling it apart when my idex kit comes. @dyocis think about it this way, you have .2xx which is great! Just print! The beacon will do the rest for you. I was chasing that as well, I got down to .275 then I'm stuck at .303 now. so meh, I'm done for now.
DapperDangus
DapperDangus2mo ago
I was soooo happy to get .196 then I turned on the bed for the first time haha. Went up to .4 or something
dyocis
dyocisOP2mo ago
I've already got about 15 hours of printing on it, and other than a few first layer issues, beacon has been keeping up with 1.1mm hot, so a cold .25 has got to be better...lol
ZIMZ
ZIMZ2mo ago
Yup, I had the bed at 105 and was tweaking things, I burned myself twice last night and went form .275 to .4 to .3 and stopped You have to heat up to the temp you print at with the bed for at least an hour before you start tweaking and keep it at that temp. For it it's 105
dyocis
dyocisOP2mo ago
Well, I'm going to start printing out the ratpack and start messing around with Prusa Slicer. Apparently Orca Slicer isn't going to be supported for IDEX when it first comes out, so I've gotta learn up on PS I'll mess with temp meshes after my toro tube gets here...lol I'm a little over meshes at the moment
DapperDangus
DapperDangus2mo ago
Beta has multilateral. They are trying to get it going.
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DapperDangus
DapperDangus2mo ago
They may have it ready by the time we actually get IDEX lol. Not sure if that's IDEX actually though lol Now that i took a second look
DapperDangus
DapperDangus2mo ago
GitHub
Releases · SoftFever/OrcaSlicer
G-code generator for 3D printers (Bambu, Prusa, Voron, VzBot, RatRig, Creality, etc.) - SoftFever/OrcaSlicer
ZIMZ
ZIMZ2mo ago
Prusa slicer is pretty easy to use
dyocis
dyocisOP2mo ago
Yea, I just ran a couple different prints through it and the defaults are pretty good. I need to tune the pressure advance, but it's pretty much the same as Orca
ZIMZ
ZIMZ2mo ago
I think you can tune PA with orca and just provide to prusa
DapperDangus
DapperDangus2mo ago
I know, i just like orcaslicers ui a bit more. easier on the eyes for me.
ZIMZ
ZIMZ2mo ago
Yeah dark mode
dyocis
dyocisOP2mo ago
@DapperDangus - PS has dark mode too, that's the first thing I looked for as soon as I opened it..lol
DapperDangus
DapperDangus2mo ago
Last time I used it, I think the main thing I don't like about it is that the menus take up the whole window rather than just stay in their area. Not a big deal though. If I need to use it for idex and what not, ill survive lol
dyocis
dyocisOP2mo ago
Yea, I definetly like Orca better. Just seems a little more refined, but it makes sense as it's built off PS to begin with.
fredbeauchamp
fredbeauchamp2mo ago
how to make a mirror print with prusa or orca ?
dyocis
dyocisOP2mo ago
It's all in ratos. There's a macro button you press before you start the print
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