Question about raw denim sizing
If one size of pants fits tight, but not uncomfortably, and another fits just right, should I go with the tighter pair with the expectation that they will stretch over time? The pants in question are Hiroshi Kato 4 way stretch.
19 Replies
get the one that fits right
Unless you really like the look of the tight pair. in addition to that being the common sense answer, I've never had jeans which havent shrunk at least a little in the wash, despite whatever is said about "sanforized", etc. etc.
Depends on where it's tight. If only the waist is tight, you can expect a little stretch after a few wears. But if it's tight anywhere else, that's likely to get worse. Avoid that.
Get the pair that fits comfortably. The tight pair may stretch, but it will also shrink.
The theory used to be jeans will fade better if they're tighter but the reality is even more loose fit jeans will fade over time. All you have to do is look at vintage pairs of Levi 501s on eBay.
Get the pair that fits right, wear a belt, enjoy your comfortable jeans
Tighter jeans will also lead to crotch blowout or knees needing repair a lot sooner
I find raw denim, even sanforized, shrinks a fair bit after the first wash - so I really wouldn’t recommend the tighter fit tbh, if anything go for something that feels a bit loose
Yeah sanforization merely reduces shrink and also makes it more uniform. Denim is still cotton (mostly, usually) and will continue to stretch and shrink a tad over a lifetime of wear, especially if you’re hot washing and/or sticking in a dryer
I need to find the pic from like brycelands or someone who put out a pair of raws and showed the actual raw next to one wash. It was really cool
These ones from Ooe are also neat: https://www.instagram.com/p/C0kLeXHSZHI/?igsh=eGg4N2x4b2t5Y25p
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Lot: SOA03XXD-0823
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Ayy that’s the post
Totally see how you thought it was Bryceland’s. Similar vibe
Denim will not really stretch anywhere but the waist. That being said, you should look specifically into the brand you're getting. A lot of one wash unsanforized denim will stretch like crazy in the waist. For example Iron Heart's 21oz fabric and Oni's secret denim are famous for stretching 1.5 or so inches in the waist, meaning that if you got a pair that's comfortable, it will soon be too big. I've been burned by this before and it definitely sucks
Just wash them and tighten them up
Alas they stretch out over the course of a single wear. I actually got the waist taken in but they're still too big. It's fine, I just cinch the belt tight. Also I sort of lied, since I'm taking about 3Sixteen stonewash, not raw one wash. But based on this experience I sized my Iron Heart 21oz down a size from what I wanted them to feel like and they stretched just right, which has been good
Huh I haven’t had that with my IHs
I think the size down and stretch to fit is really old advice from when we painted on our raws. You can plan for a bit of waist stretch but I generally would not rely on it.
My 1947s are tag 36, measured 33~ish new and settled at around 35
Not super familiar with Kato's but I don't think you can necessarily account for the same stretching overtime when they're stretch jeans.
I have a few pairs of katos. Get the pair that fits. If you like them tighter, you could go with the smaller size since their fabric is super comfortable, but stretch is minimal with both their 10oz and 14oz denim.
I’ve owned many pairs and my approach is to “size for thighs”. Thighs down won’t have much change. They will break in a bit and knees usually get some more space, but not enough to size down.
Waste will stretch a bit though. I find around 1-1.5 sizes. A wash will bring that back down a bit but usually ends up stretching back unless you wash in hot water.
My advice would be to find a pair that has a snug or tight waste but the rest if the pant fits well.