First Layer problem, always squished on bottom left/ left side
Ok guys, I need your help! I can't use the printer because the first layer doesn't come out well and doesn't stick to the bed in any way.
i'll post you my bed mesh and the result
i can't figure out what is going on...what i've done wrong?
I printed directly on aluminum plate to see if the adhesive magnetic bed was a fact but...same problem like on the magnetic bed.
is my bed plate? my frame? i don't know.
As you can the the fisrt layer don't stick from the middle plate to the upper right plate and is very squish on the left side of the plate and the bottom/left part of the bed.
Please give me a hand i'm very frustrated.
i use euclid probe wich is very accurate 0.003 mm result on repetibility test.
I'm very sad
27 Replies
correct-apricotOP•2y ago
I did a test, I purposely moved one arm of the left y gantry down. the bad mesh gone very warped but the printing result was the same. i can't understand if is a mechanical building error or a firmware error. the printer seems to follow the bed shape but it have the same problem, is too sticky on the botto/left - left side of the bed
Hi, I have same problem, posted a few days back. no answer, no solution...
correct-apricotOP•2y ago
i even used a 4mm thick glass bed but the problem persist. i think the problem is on the frame
Should the probe not take care of this? I also have some areas with critical first layer and try to work out why this is not correctly compensated.
I will chime in on having the same problem
Green perfect, red too close to bed and overextended
mesh (bed temp) cold? hot? version of RatOS? mesh should be named ratos (not default)
correct-apricotOP•2y ago
hot bed 70 and 100 degree same result, i'll try with cold bed. also i'll try to reinstal klipper with ratos 2.0 because i use manta and cb1
deep-jade•2y ago
Talking from personal experience.. to fix it I had to let the bed's temp stabilize before starting to print.
When heater reaches the setpoint the print surface is still not hot enough. That means it keeps deforming since temp is still changing. So between the mesh and print start the bed warps so slightly to cause these issues. I set max heater power to 75 to heat it slower and waiting about 2 minutes after it reaches the setpoint before meshing and starting the print. You can know it stabilized when your output power goes down and stays at same mean level
If it's enclosed the frame deformation also comes into play and makes that effect even worse
So heatsoak is needed
have the same problem. still no sulotion for this. its making me crazy
Bed 110, heatsoeaked for close to 2h, ratos 2.0, mesh name is ratos.
Had the same problems with my first layer. Changed to the double rail mod from elco and since then no more problems.
Care to link? I think I know the one you refer, the one with two linear rails and some cubes in betweeen?
Thats the one, yes
Printables.com
RatRig v-core 3 extrusionless x-gantry mod von elcojacobs | Kostenl...
V-core 3 mod to remove the aluminium extrusion from the x-gantry and run on just the rail or a top and bottom rail | Kostenlose 3D-druckbare STL-Modelle herunterladen
I just bought a CF Tube a week ago. Will give it a go before spending more cash. Will need to look on Ali for those cubes
care to share anlink for the cf one? ive bee thinking of this aswell
Sure
give ma min
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004675069157.html
can i pm you?
I am i bed ^^ sure txt me and I will get back to you tomorrow? 🙂
correct-apricotOP•2y ago
i tested cold bed/ 70/110 and i get always the same problem
Any fixes for this i have the exact same issue i already have the dual gantry mod.
If reducing flow and lowering z doesn’t help, I would suggest making sure the z compensation is working
Put a little mark on the top of the front a rods
Start a larger print and watch to see if the rods are turning. They shouldn’t turn much, just micro movements
But can be still seen
ok i don't see any movement on a 10x10 print
I had this issue on both ratos 1.0 as now 2.0 all i changed from stock config is z-offset 8.4
10x10? You mean mm? Cause that’s too small. Do corner squares for example.
Can you post your printer.cfg
10x10cm