Selvedge Denim: is it actually that much different from non-selvedge?
Hi everyone I'm getting into denim jeans. I'm even in Japan right now checking out vintage shops and places like Japan Blue, Iron Heart, Oni...
These are expensive jeans, usually clocking in around 200-250 USD even in Japan, for base models.
I'm no expert on selvedge, but cursory googling seems to result in mixed opinions. Is it more durable? Well maybe. Is it better made? Well maybe, since it's expensive brands tend to lean towards a higher quality good...
The only thing I've seen different between selvedge and non is that selvedge has much more interesting patterns than just color and washes. Thread patterns, colors, interesting directions of wear ...
But can you get these on regular bits of denim? What is the actual difference if any?
Best,
Walker
3 Replies
Great timing! https://discord.com/channels/1116793467654381685/1362819969485897981/1362819969485897981
Have a read through that thread. I think that'll answer most of your questions
The actual selvedge line has literally no direct bearing on the quality of the fabric. You can make a terrible awful fabric even including elastane and such and have the edge be selvedge no problem.
No one really does this though so it’s a decent proxy for “quality” but of course that depends on what you actually want in a pair of denim. It’s usually raw denim that’s selvedge, no stretch, and can including other finicky traits like unsanforized fabric. You’ll likely need to hem them and as you’ve seen selvedge tends to be more expensive.
If you’re not going to cuff the denim ever I don’t see why you’d buy selvedge specifically if there’s a cheaper alternative. It’s a detail that I personally love so I seek it out for specific jean types and styles that I want.
So from a technical perspective selvedge is just the edge of the fabric as it is woven on a loom.
Usually selvedge clothing (i.e. clothing that incorporates the selvedge into the design) is woven on looms more narrow than the usual industrial stuff. This means that the fabric is slower and therefore more costly to produce. In addition to that the narrower width of the loom allows you to do some technical stuff during the weaving process like operating with lower tension, which allows for certain types of fabric to be produced that are not technically possible on a wider loom.
But thats about it. A lot of ppl use it as a proxy for quality for these reasons. The weaving method is still essentially the same and not inherently better than what you can achieve with wider looms.