Oxfords vs Derbies vs Bluchers - Topic of the day 1/12/25
Some like either one. Which ones do you like? Does it matter which one is which? Do you like broguing?
48 Replies
High instep prefers the additional lacing flexibility of a derby.
Otherwise I’d probably prefer…also a derby. No reason for it, just prefer the optics in 9/10 cases.
Oxfords feel very much like occasion wear at this point
No one except the chronically fashionable will notice though
That on top
I just wear Chelsea boots in any occasion where Im forced into this sort of footwear situation
I like my oxfords to look nothing like the above
you can propably get away with a dressy derby for basically everything thats not black or white tie
But I bet you some idiots will make a big deal of it because it’s the only “fashion rule” they know
Yeah that’s the only reason I own a pair of oxfords. They’re worn once a year maximum and only with my tux
For example I like the oxfords that are commonly called oxfords by american manufacturers that are not oxfords by traditional definition
i like an oxford cloth shirt, and an oxford comma, but the shoe? nah
derbies all day
you mean like this? https://shop.whitesboots.com/lifestyle-boots/whites-oxford/
White's Oxford: White's Boots, Inc.
C461 Sprung Toe Last
Also the Red Wing Oxfords all have derby lacing
As it should be
and then there are blouchers
Some examples from White's, Wesco and Redwing
Man I Lust for red wing postmans
But I have no business buying black shoes
Buy a brown pair :xd:
Oh yeah those exist
I forgot
Im not sure how I feel about the wedge sole on these
I like my heels
I'm also a wedge sole hater
IMO wedge sole works on a very limited set of shoes
I have a pair of Viberg "Oxfords" that I enjoy. My two pairs of oxfords only see wear with suits.
hate broguing
I think broguing is sick
I always have to look up how to spell it
I like vfkguing but feel it was so abused with poor application in the past decade + that it leaves a sour taste
Bro-
Guing
I like derbies with my style these days, when i dressed sleeker i preferred oxfords. I never paid that much attention to like formality levels cause for a while my only oxfords were purple lol
I think end of the day shape and design matters more than how the shoes lace and only real sticklers are gonna care if youre breaking shoe rules
I have a pair of oxfords "just in case", but I basically never wear them. I have 2 pairs of derbies (rancourt, Paraboot Michaels) that I wear all the time. But they are much more casual, in contrast to the derbies in the picture.
If they bury me in a captoe I’ll rise from the dead to rip them off my feet
At this point, oxfords only make sense if you're invited to a ball at Windsor Castle. You can get away with a pair of derbies on every other occasion.
And even then you should wear something like cowboy boots to properly disrespect the royals
Derbies are the first "adult" shoes I transitioned to after sneakers. Then I went to CPs, then loafers, and now I'm back to derbies again.
I like moc stitch derbies. They work nicely with wider pants.
Pertinent reading if you haven’t already yet: https://www.stitchdown.com/info/why-are-work-derby-shoes-called-oxfords/
Josh Bornstein
Stitchdown
Why Do Workboot Makers Call Their Derbies "Oxfords"? An Investigati...
What’s the deal with all these very obvious derby shoes being called and marketed as oxfords?? We found answers.
I too love Oxfords that are actually derbies. I hate closed facings
Of all the nuance we worry about on menswear I feel like this is one of the most ridiculous. I find it legit difficult to see a difference most of the time as the difference is oftentimes covered by the pants when standing and there is usually a table or something else blocking a view when sitting.
Most of mine are true oxfords purchased before I knew there was even a distinction. Can't bring myself to spend money "correcting" this even though per protocol I should be wearing derbies in most cases
I mostly wear a pair of cap toe oxfords with suits and with absolutely nothing else
I have two pairs of derbies for other outfits
Yeah its a nonsense that means nothing unless you really want to pretend it does
I actually love the close feel of the Oxford tongue tho
Really comfortable for me while derbies tend to slip regardless of how I lace them
Prob just cuz of the way my feet are shaped
I tend to have slippage in everything
I noticed earlier that my Indian and Hongkonger grandfathers largely just wore black whole cut or brogued Oxfords with everything. Why not ig
so is the difference between an oxford and a derby the lacing?
not only the lacing, the article jawn shared above explains it pretty well
It is called lacing but really it's "where the laces attach" that marks the distinction. Basically are they "flaps" (derby) or attached (oxford). Good picture here: https://www.beckettsimonon.com/blogs/resources/the-difference-between-oxford-and-derby-shoes
Beckett Simonon
The Difference Between Oxford and Derby Shoes
Two of the most common types of men’s lace-up dress shoes are the Oxford and the Derby, but what is the difference between these two styles?
I get that visual difference, while worn, is very often overlooked by whoever has no knowledge about the topic, but still, isn't attention to detail, research and effort (regardless of final style) one of the interesting points of this hobby?
For me a formal suit calls an oxford, and not a derby, which will see much more wear on many more occasions. It's a choice.
Nobody notices, but I do, and I like.
minute differences can be interesting but one can also not care about the minute difference between an oxford and derby vis a vis their suitabilty to formal dress
independent of nothing i'm not a big fan of longwings except for alden's moc toe bluchers, weird
Oh, totally fine to notice and appreciate. Ive even come to appreciate now that I know. I just find it a bit comical when people make a big deal out of it, given (as I noted above) it can be genuinely tough to see at all in many circumstances and even should it be visible.....this is a pretty trivial difference.
I think each looks slightly better in the situations they are “supposed” to be worn. It is such a small difference that it doesn’t matter much. I am not really a fan of either in casual situations these days tbh (other than tyroleans).
I have a pair of suede derbies I wear in smart casual settings semi-regularly but I want to phase them out with something better.
i’m a big derby fan, but i also hate broguing i think it looks weird (only on myself, yall can wear whatever)
Broguing feels inherently more suited to polished, sleek, tailored looks, and that just isn’t what is in right now. Very old school feel and has always been divisive even when it is more on trend. It can still look good on people with certain styles, but it isn’t for me either.
I really disagree with this. Broguing looks much better in a tailoring context with tweeds and busier patterns. Brogue shoes stand out heavily against sleek or plain fabrics. They are descendants of “country” footwear, made to be worn outdoors in the same vein as a country tweed suit. They are thought of as the fancy option now because people dont care to find the context.
In my opinion broguing is a very good option with the current versions of ivy and americana popping around. Even in “fashion” fits they have their place like with the thom browne longwings.
Sleek was just a bad word choice by me. In my head, I was grouping any type of country tweed or any type of ivy style as polished, dressier looks even though it isn’t really “sleek” or super polished in the context of more formal men’s wear.
As an example, a Tricker’s Stow boot or AE strandmok are slightly clunkier than a more formal dress boot/shoe but are still dressy. It can work with jeans but still feels more suited with dressier jeans.