Abysmal Flow
On my VC3.1 i am getting extremely bad flow. I have replaced the Orbiter, i have an identical nozzle to my VC4 (both new), i've put the filament directly into the head without using the ptfe tube, i'm using identical filament, and the most conservative stock PETG print profile from Ratrig. All of it and I am getting bad flow and crappy prints on my VC3.1 and great prints on my VC4
Here are two pictures of the same part, one on my 3.1 and one on 4.
Any idea on where to start?
Solution:Jump to solution
West3D 3D Printing Supplies
Phaetus Rapido 2 Heat Block Replacement for Rapido 2 Hot Ends
This is the updated block as of October 2024! This is specifically designed for the new variant of Rapido 2 with the updated block. It uses a push through thermistor vs the old screw style. You broke it, it clogged, or vanished - either way we are here to help you fix it. This is a replacement heat block for the Rapido
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This is also recent. I've been printing fine on this printer for ages.
pt1000 thermistor? is it reading properly? looks like its printing way too cold
am i correct in assuming everything is the same as the old set up except the new extruder? My first guess is usually sometimes people forget to screw the new nozzle in while it is hot, it can mess up flow. Or if you dissasemble and reassemble the hotend/heatbreak sometimes people crush the pipe. Third guess is sometimes you can get an orbiter extruder where the filament path on the gears is not perfectly aligned.
OrbiterProjects
YouTube
Orbiter v2.0 filament path adjustment guide
Orbiter v2.0 filament path adjustment guide.
In case you have received your sample with the filament path misaligned and following this video guide you do not succeed with the alignment please contact your local reseller for assistance or get in contact with me over our official Facebook page, we will help you as best as we can or send replacem...
Re-PID tuning to test?
no... in my case my pt1000 was reading about 20C over actual temp.... switching to a different port on my mcu resolved the issue...
basically, at 20c room temp, probe read 40C... so, presumptively, when reading 240C, was actually printing at 220
Nope. room temp. running the same temp as the beacon coil.
As i said i replaced the Orbiter and it had no change. I'll check the ptfe tube..
Hard to tell but it seems like maybe the heat break is bent? would this be a cause and if so do i have to replace the entire hot end?
disassembled more, yup.. heatbreak is crushed:
Anyone know if I can just buy this piece?
I haven't seen just the tube but you can get the block with tube
Solution
West3D 3D Printing Supplies
Phaetus Rapido 2 Heat Block Replacement for Rapido 2 Hot Ends
This is the updated block as of October 2024! This is specifically designed for the new variant of Rapido 2 with the updated block. It uses a push through thermistor vs the old screw style. You broke it, it clogged, or vanished - either way we are here to help you fix it. This is a replacement heat block for the Rapido