113 Replies
there you go 🙂
can you post the picture after you ran Z-tilt again as well?
Right the third v is after running VTilt again basically no change
Went from 375 to 366 to 368
Which part is the front of the printer it's not obvious from the mesh
always post the whole screen
a snipping tool shot would be better.. I can barely read the numbers 😄
Sorry, I don't have discord on the computer I'm on
Let me get it installed
got it, send a picture of the bed as wel
sorry I mean the visual representation of from the beacon scan
Ohhh lol
Let me install discord. I use this computer for development and sometimes I install some sketchy scripts or libraries so I try and keep personal stuff off of it
Like I'll be sending prints from a completely different computer
if you are on the same network you could just use the webbrowser on your discord pc
Oh that's an idea
But that computer is inside the house not inside my work shed lol
ah 🙂
take pics with the phone, its ok
I think your x-axis is bowing downwards and need a little pull in the middle
ok trying that
take your hand and pull it in the middle of the x-axis.. the re-run Z-tilt and then a new scan
pull it upwards
it got worse haha
visual picture
turn your back left feet one turn up
I had the same issue
Loosen the screws of the linear rail on the x axis then do something under the x axis and put carefully you bed up so it is a little bit pushing against the x axis and then thightened the screws of the x axis rail again
Oh wait, when I do z-tilt i have to hit "Save Config" after
no
ok
try to turn your back left feet one turn upwards
then re-run ztilt and scan
like on the bottom of the printer? the leveling rubber foot?
yes
I'll try this in a few if this continues, thanks!
turning the foot made it much worse?
We want lower variance, right?
I would say you might need to pull more on the x-axis.. the yellow circles are all at the same height so Z-tilt is doing what its supposed to do.. but as both back corners are low and mid front are high indicating that your x-axis is bending downwards in the middle
@VisualTech48
help 😄
ok i'll try loosening the rail and re-tightening it?
or just pull it on more?
restore the foot
lets wait for @VisualTech48 to respond, he is the master of meshes 😄
but I would restore the foot as it got worse and then we take it from there
ok, thanks, really appreciate your time and help
did you tighten the rails to 1 Nm? (0.98 Nm)
Trust me
Try to loosen the screws and bend it with the bed a little bit up but really a little bit like 0,4 or 0,5 mm
yeah I think its a good idea to do what @03Julian04 said.. If your rail is not tightened correctly it would help to redo it
Will try that once this one finishes
Put something under the axis go up with the bed in minimal steps up so if the thing under the axis is tight and then go 0,4 mm more up then thightened the screws
don't be afraid to pull on the gantry, if you pull too much you can always push it back down
you can see on the mesh at the front (between the two measurements at front) that its bowing downwards (nozzle gets closer to bed iin middle indicating a higher mesh)
pull more
😄
wait.
should i loosen the Y screws and then re-tighten them>
its not that bad. 0.33 is ok!
the y carriage is going up slightly when i pull up on the X
I would try pull it abit more
ideally your front should be straight.
your back left and right corners also suggests that its bowing slightly
when you the front straight the back left and right corners will raise up
Hey.
but tbh, 0.33 cold is totally fine.. when you heat it up things gonna happen
A tiny little bit too much 😄
lemme push then, right
but you see the back corners are now going upwards
rembember to run z-tilt after each adjustment
doesnt look like you did that on the last one?
no, i did
i just re-torqued the rail, some werent all the way torqued
let me try again
🤞
z tilt already looks really good
ok!
don't touch it now 😄
ok ok lmqo
.202 is pretty nice, right
is the back left feet all the way in? like as short as it can be?
yeah it is
not sure what's up with that dip
im just thinking if we should try 1/4 of a turn on the RIGHT FRONT
extend it by 1/4
ok ok will try
I'm not entiry sure if that will adjust it but could be cool to try
if that it gets worse, turn it back and then turn the BACK RIGHT 1/4 turn (extend)
BACK RIGHT is probably the correct one.. but lets try front right first
interesting lol
it got worse
ok ok
will try back right
heyo.
that is sick
really, don't touch anything 😄
don't even breath at the printer
😄
i can tighten the nuts to keep the feet from not moving, right?
yes you must do that
ok
that is a 500 bed right?
right
500
i dont have a wrench large enough for the nut 😦
one of the best 500 beds I've seen so far
it's at my shop in town
awesome
i'll have to grab it when i got into town later
tighten everything up and then go from there
yeah sounds like a good plan
seems like a 12 or 14
not a 10
according to CAD its 13mm
Derp
Ok got it
Largest wrench I have is a 12 currently at home My other set is at the shop lol
thats a bummer 😄
not a big deal though, just tighten it before you run any belt tension or input shaper tests
re-run the bed mesh after you have heat soaked the bed for like 10 minutes.. it will probably need some final adjustments.. usually you get some movements when you heat it up
but 0.11 is a very good starting point
anything less than 0.1% of bedsize is concidered ok.. which means <0.5mm for a 500 bed
DId you ge tit?
Seems like 100 messages 😄
Let me know if I can help.
I think we got it. Am i supposed to take the bed off to install the heater? the pictures dont install confidence and i feel like we'll lose this progress?
Yes, the bed placemnt doesn't affect it. Basicly your frame dictates the next steps.
Don't be suprized if you get a better/worse bed after mag sheat is on.
I got from 0.14 bed and 0.089 with the mag
ok cool so i'll take it off and then re-tinker after installing mag and heater
I took the bed out to align it carefully, don't do it inside the frame
Yeah do it slowly and don't mess up the mag when installing.
Slow and steady wins the race.
thanks for all the help, i'll chime back in if i need to meddle with it again
Clean with IPA and dish soap
Before hand
ANd dry with microfiber.
You do not want any residue when you are gluing the thing together.
got it
i got it all
gonna grab my alcohol sprayer
any thoughts about our actions above to correct the bed @VisualTech48 ?
Always good to get a second opinion from the bed-master 😄
0.1 for a 500 is very in the range.
I wouldn't touch it.
But lets wait when the mag comes.
YOu can always micro adjust with kapton when you are dealing with these small deviation across such a large bed.
need to hit the bed now @Rewire , I'll check in the morning and see how it goes 🙂
thanks for all your help!
after installing heater and bedplate
still good, right?
Yes 👍
Cool 👍
ok cool.
You could try to give the back right foot 1/4 turn more
But you’re chasing extremely small variances
I wouldn’t touch anything actually. I think adjusting the foot could introduce worse mesh in front
0167 on a 500 is amazing.
No touchy.
You can alway put one tape of kapton on the back corner
Like so
On the magnetic sheet (not the actual printing sheet)
And you'll be 0.12-0.13
I would not recommended this because I think that your frame is the point why the back left corner looks like this
And with Klipper it compensates this so your actual 3d print is plane because your bed is plane
But if you put there a capton band then your bed isn’t plane
Yes your mesh is better but the thing what we want is a complete plane 3d print not a perfect mesh
You know what I mean ?
If this poroblem is your bed then yes @VisualTech48 is absolutely right
@03Julian04 We are talking about deviation in total of 0.16 on a 500 bed.
There is no frame issues, and its not wort chasing ghosts.
I wouldn't recommend doing fixes in this case at least.
As he had around 0.1 before putting the mag sheet.
Yes you are 100% right so I would let it like it is and don’t change anything
Yeah, one small tape, and he is done. I mean even with this its amazing work and he can print easily.
Frame issues with a deviation of 0.16 on a 500 😬 One thing if it has a delta of 1mm
Frame is perfect