prints too large
hey i could use a tip 😉 i printed a 20mm^3 test cube which was .55mm too big on x and y. I then increased the rotation distance from 40 to 41.1 (calculated based on the deviation) and got exactly the same result (.55mm too big) when I printed the test again. What would be the next logical step to fix this problem?
Solution:Jump to solution
yay, im back in action, replacement of that damn fuse worked well... I think everything has been said here, calibrating the flow rate has brought improvements. I have now also tried it with another petg without CF, the prints come out with 0.03mm difference which is perfectly acceptable. The problem discussed here is probably due to the filament (petg cf) or the combination of cf filament + cht 0.4 nozzle. I think I can close this here then, thanks again to all involved 😉
70 Replies
my calculation 40* 20.55/20 = 41.1
dont mess with the rotation distance. Keep it stock. Have you calibrated flow rate as thats the first thing you want to do for each type of filament.
i think so
im using .93 as flowrate for this PETG CF
i did the first layer test again wich is 40mm in width. and it came out with close to 40mm.
only that cube grows "during" print
using the exact same settings
did you do the skew calibration test and set the settings in RatOS?
https://docs.ratrig.com/commissioning-guides/v-core-4#skew-calibration
yes
## [skew_correction my_skew]
## xy_skew = -0.0015542245220663518
## xz_skew = 0.0
## yz_skew = 0.0
to my knowledge, skew correction does not affect the dimensions of the printed piece. Or am I wrong there? It only corrects distortion.
I am not sure if it does or not
what flow rate test did you use?
Flow Rate Calibration Guide
Optimize Your 3D Printer Flow Rate!
will do it again
what slicer are you using?
cant find the setting for linewidth in prusa slicer
prusa
ahh thats the one thing I hate about prusa it has no built in calibration for flow
I use Orca to do my calibration and then copy the settings over into Prusa which I use day to day for printing
i have orca installed too
but barely used it
I like the flow tests in Super Slicer and Orca as they build up a bunch of layers to see if your flow rate is right
vs a single layer with some calipers that may or may not be accurate
which one do use?
Orca
1 2 or max flowrate ?
use the flow test 1
the one with those 9 patches
that takes your stock flow and does in 5% increments up to 20%+ and 20%- then you pick the once that is slightly over extruded and then you do the flow test 2 which you use the updated flow rate and to in 1% increments 0 through -10%
there are plenty of other guides out there but this gives some good info
its ok if i start with a flowrate of 0.94
I would copy over any tuned settings from Prusa
and after that i have to do the math?
yes start there
0.94 * 1.2 for example?
or do i have to add thsoe 20% to the value?
0.94+0.2?
no, the flow tool will do that for you
flowtool?^^
The one in Orca Slicer..
so if you copy 0.94 to orca as your default flowrate for that filament and then run the test, the 0 print will be 0.94. The 20 will be (0.94 times 1.20) or 1.128 and -20 will be (0.94 times .8) or .752
it will do all that work for you and save a bunch of time.
hmm
then pick the one that is higher (explained in that link above) so lets say its 5. You then change your flow rate in the filament to 0.94 * 1.05 = 0.987. Then you run flow rate test 2 and 0 will be 0.987 but then the other tabs will be minus 1% each.
goal with calibrating flow this way is to get the best surface quality possible
from there if you need dimensional accuracy and its off you can use the slicers shinkage compenstation to adjust
ellis has lots of good information
you can use square patch stls he has and manually change flow rate on each one in Prusa if you want but I find it a lot faster to use Orca and then just copy over what I determin to be the right flow rate into Prusa
hmm having problems with the orca generated gcode... have to figure that out first now ;/
is his write up on why to not do it the way you did
what error are you getting with Orca?
make sure you are on the latest Orca (I think 2.2) and then use Helge's guide to make sure you have all Orca setup for RatOS https://github.com/HelgeKeck/RatOS/blob/documentation_v2.1/site/docs/slicers.md#orca-slicer
GitHub
RatOS/site/docs/slicers.md at documentation_v2.1 · HelgeKeck/RatOS
The preconfigured Raspberry Pi image that makes it easy to run Klipper + Moonraker + Mainsail on your printer. - HelgeKeck/RatOS
had to do some basic configurations first
think hes starting now with the flowrate test 1
22min
get your flow looking good and then use skew to adjust if you need perfect dimensions
just to be clear i repeat
after the print is done
i check those 9 patches
decide what i like most and multiply the current used flowrate value with it
then i do flowrate test 2 and so on
right?
yikes orca seems to not support addaptive mesh ^^
yup, multiply by what ever percentage it is. So if its 10 on the tab you would multiple by existing flow rate by 1.10. If it was -10 it would be flow rate by 0.90.
ill try
then take that new flow rate and stick it in the filament config of Orca and save it. Then run test 2. Test to is by 1% increments going down to -10%. That is why it is important to error on the higher side when choosing the tab
yeah i understand
will do
Orca supports addaptive. The start gcode from Helge's link should have had it in there. Did you copy the whole line as its pretty long.
ah ok
click the copy button and you will get all of it
see the start code includes the boundries for Orca to send to RatOS to use adaptive
its printing now. im out for a doggo walk 😉 will keep u informed about the results here! Thanks alot so far!
you are welcome
im back and the print is done
-10,-15 and -20 look and feel (smoothness) pretty much identical for me
i think ill go with -15
or -20
0.94*0.8=0.75
thats the value ill run for round 2
second run was -2
so i went with 0.735 for my next calibration cube.
The cube came out with 2.04cmx20.1cmx20.5cm ... thats an improvement 😉 i think Z is that much off cuz i played too much with Z-Offset... will look into that tomorrow
That may be a little low flow rate. You are looking for smoothness but also want to make sure there are no gaps. If it’s hard to see gaps, shine a flashlight at an angle on the tabs and see if you see thin gaps between the passes. You should see that for sure at -20
hmm as far as i can judge it looks fine. Will do a Firstlayer test and Z-Offset Calibration again tomorrow.
Remember as you adjust flow you are going to slightly mess up your first layer since you will now have more or less squish since you changed the flow. I would check your PA as well if you made big EM changes
New orca beta has a yolo flow test. Only need to run one set of tabs
nice. Its only +5 through -5 so it your range is off more than that you are not going to live 🙂
Die another day
My OCD is drawn towards the perfectionist version
came closer to a solution... problem is my heatbead stopped working this morning... not sure whats the problem but i think the SSR died somehow -.-
Check the thermal fuse too. If the ssr fails closed, that pops. Use some heat sink thermal paste when installing the new ssr, for better heat dissipation
ordered new SSR now... https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B0CDKCBJRT/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I'm very surprised that it broke... until yesterday evening, the printer printed without any problems and was disconnected from the power supply after a cool-down phase. Just annoying!
2 piecs SSR Halbleiterrelais Solid-State-Relaismodul SSR-40DA, Soli...
Modell: SSR-40DA Eingangsspannung: 3-32VDC Ausgangsspannung: 24-380VAC Ausgangsstrom: 40A Relaisgröße: 5,8 x 4,5 x 2,2 cm Paket Inhalt: 1 x Halbleiterrelais SSR-40DA Angelegenheiten, die Aufmerksamkeit erfordern: 1. Der Strom am Produkt ist der maximale Laststrom, nicht der Nennstrom. 2. Aufgrund...
one thing I want to mention is to not use a 20mm^3 cube for dimensional accuracy to calibrate steps on the stepper. If You want to do that, then do it on a bigger print - 150mm on x and y minium. Best would be to use as much space on the printer as possible. Generallly speaking, RatOS config, esp stock values for LDO steppers are good, and it's not necessary to calibrate steps/rotational distance. That would be a different story if You were to use some random chinesium stepper
measured the heating bed for continuity... nothing... think the fuse is blown. This project gettin frustrating...
There have been a few people that have had their fuses go out. I can help find a link if you want to buy some replacements. Just make sure to get some wire clamps to install them an a silicon heat rated adhesive to reinstall the flap over the fuse.
I would not be surprised if your ssr is fine and the fuse just died. It happens unfortunately. It would not be a bad idea to keep a spare ssr around though.
i got a few of them here ... they are only 10A rated but i think thats fine. Replaced those on others printers before, Crimping or soldering with the fuse under water should work again ;).
1500W/230V ~ 6.5A
only thing im missing is some HT Silicon or fiber tape...
Solution
yay, im back in action, replacement of that damn fuse worked well... I think everything has been said here, calibrating the flow rate has brought improvements. I have now also tried it with another petg without CF, the prints come out with 0.03mm difference which is perfectly acceptable. The problem discussed here is probably due to the filament (petg cf) or the combination of cf filament + cht 0.4 nozzle. I think I can close this here then, thanks again to all involved 😉
nice work Dayum.