more structured big jeans
I'm trying to branch back out from cowboy cuts after spending the past couple years in them as my go-to jeans. Generally my wardrobe has been leaning in more of a goth westernwear direction lately, so I think if I'm gonna do big pants I'd prefer them to be more structured, high rise wide legs rather than something baggier. That way I can still wear them with my sidezips and cowboy boots and loafers and stuff.
I've just been having a hard time searching for what I actually like - a rise high enough that the jeans sit at or above my natural waist, and a leg that's less of a flare from the knee down and more of a structured trapezoid shape the whole leg through. This is a silhouette I seem to be able to find pretty easily in women's mall brands (https://www.levi.com/US/en_US/clothing/women/jeans/wide-leg/ribcage-wide-leg-womens-jeans/p/791120007) but not so much in mens stuff.
The closest thing I think I've found is these guys from olive (https://www.oliveclothing.com/new/men/p-oliveunique-20231011-061-mid-blue-menswear-wide-bootcut-jeans-mid-blue) but I still don't love them.
Tldr: I think I like a high (almost nipped at the waist?) waist falling down to a very wide, but structured, leg. I just don't know how to search for it in a way that's productive. Any suggestions on how to do that would be great! I also wouldn't mind specific suggestions, I'm trying to stay sub-$200 and don't mind (even kinda prefer sometimes) trawling ebay if something vintage fits the bill better
42 Replies
You might want to look for things like 'barrel' leg
I am not the biggest Jeans Knowledge Guy but let me see if I can't find anything relevant
I think there are some Levis Vintage Clothing or M&C cuts that might work -
out of your price range new, but maybe - https://www.levi.com/US/en_US/levis-vintage-clothing/levis-vintage-clothing-for-men/1937-501-original-fit-selvedge-mens-jeans/p/375010015
these links meet some of the criteria, and might help give you keywords or brands to search; a hem might help the shape on some of these -
https://www.grailed.com/listings/61166597-ami-ami-wide-leg-pleated-jean?g_aidx=Listing_production&g_aqid=29eca3eaedc2adde757a213bdb504333
https://www.nordstrom.com/s/pleated-self-sizer-waist-flat-front-denim-trousers-regular-big/7437243?origin=category-personalizedsort&breadcrumb=Home%2FMen%2FClothing%2FJeans&color=410
https://www.ssense.com/en-us/men/product/schnaydermans/indigo-beit-jeans/12086541
luv ader error https://www.ssense.com/en-us/men/product/ader-error/blue-significant-tag-jeans/15249491
https://www.ssense.com/en-us/men/product/dime/indigo-relaxed-fit-jeans/13602561
https://www.ssense.com/en-us/men/product/apc/indigo-martin-jeans/13504881
https://www.mrporter.com/en-us/mens/product/the-frankie-shop/clothing/straight-jeans/drew-wide-leg-pleated-denim-trousers/1647597327635791?
these from hatski might hit ~200 on sale here
https://www.namu-shop.com/collections/man/products/hatski-wide-tapered-washi-denim-used
https://www.namu-shop.com/collections/man/products/loose-tapered-washi-denim-one-wash
This is extremely helpful thank u kyn that deep ass pleat on the ader error ones goes crazy
None of these are exactly it but I think maybe it's more pleat/hem stuff I need to look for than anything else
Yeah - I think that the cut you're looking for is something Weeg, Bishop or Puma may have better language for. I agree that the hem on a lot of these doesn't meet your needs and it's likely that the shops I'm used to don't trend in the direction you're looking for 🙂
so budget wise these dont work, but will be on sale for often 40%
https://www.studionicholson.com/collections/mens-denim any of these work style wise?
Might try SFC's jeans, though they are a bit above your budget with shipping to the US as well (DO NOT VANITY SIZE IF YOU GO THIS ROUTE):
https://scottfrasercollection.com/collections/denim/products/patch-pocket-denim-pants
https://scottfrasercollection.com/collections/denim/products/copy-of-high-waisted-denim-jeans-2
WOW those are HOT
You said Weeg might have better language and I'm pretty sure he has a pair of these lol
I would go absolutely nuts for these in a lighter wash or black lmao
Patch pocket ones in particular my god those are hard
foaming at the mouth rn
Black Horse Lane Atelier? Rise might be a bit low though. https://blackhorselane.com/collections/mens-jeans/products/e6-wide-stay-black-14-5oz-italian-selvedge-unisex-jeans
Blackhorse Lane Ateliers
E6 Wide ’Stay Black’ 14.5oz Italian Selvedge Unisex Jeans
Our E6 cut has a high rise, the waistband is slightly higher at the back allowing for comfort. This cut is a true straight leg with a very subtle taper. Perfect for anyone who wants a relaxed jean. This cut is suitable for those who are tall and slim as well as those who are athletic or looking for a wider leg.
Ya unfortunately they don't have any wash options. Supposedly based on US Navy dungarees but I don't know what the market looks on those.
Well, the more recent ones have a relatively distinct flare.
gimme a sec, gonna pull some images
Here are fit pics by @sioku and yours truly with them.
Recent as 70s to 90s when these were phased out
The really old ones seem to have less of a flare to them..
From what I have seen they are always in that color
The sfc model also has an outer seam, while the more recent ones do not
Honestly I think I might just want pants cut like the navy dungarees damn
need black flares
samesies
if you find a good option lmk!
Washed black navy dungarees would absolutely go
go for it. Just look for "US navy dungaree" and they will show up
Maybe. Though keep in mind that the Navy issued ones were a cotton-poly blend so you would have to use appropriate dye
i saw some dyed dunagrees and that might be a move
im looking at black 517s and just going a bit bigger in the waist so they aren't too slim
and trying to gind some made in egypt ones
i know bootcut isn't the same flare as dunagrees
but its on my thrift watch
are the made in egypt ones particularily good?
i fidn that the fit is a bit better/less slim
acros the board
i recently found levis 550s in the same size in egypt and mexico and egpyt ones were wider and had less taper
same with 501s
im sure theres somene here who is more of an expert but thats what ive found!
USA > egypt > anything else
I've actually found this too fwiw! I was very surprised by how much more I liked the Egypt ones than the Mexico ones when I was giving 501s a shot
good to know!
they also just feel better i think?
like the egypt ones cotton feels more like a jean to mel ol
This was the big thing for me, more denimy denim to me
Yeah that
Denim is an evil trap
there are soo many variations
and suddenly you have like 10 jeans in your closet
truly satanic
/j
i used to not care as much since i had one good pair of hearty jeans but then i outgrew them 😦
i also just started wearing full tailoring more than doing the drake's/workwear thing
but now that i like wearing jeans again its tough because ill like thrifrt some and then end up with that 10 jean thing lol
im stil on the hunt for a good baggy/straight fit wide jean
and i wasn't into the 550s becauser of the taper
but now after owning 550s MiEgypt (in black tho) im back on the hunt
RS-100x
Our RS cut is our widest fit- developed with more room in the thigh, a higher rise, and a wider leg opening than our other offerings. The cut is generous and comfortable, perfect with a break or a clean cuff. The RS-100x utilizes our flagship 100x raw indigo selvedge denim that we've featured for over 15 years, which is custom woven exclusively ...
i might be intrigued for these lol
I like the Brakeman Model of Cathcart - works really well for my proportions..
But that only comes in indigo and I want a black pair as well
Guess Im joining you in the hunt for 550s/517s on this side of the atlantic lol
BEARS' -TOKYO-
RESOLUTE
[RESOLUTE "714" WW2 Model] Introducing RESOLUTE's new classic, 714.This time, it became the thickest model ever, and became a war model.denimRESOLUTE is a new brand created by Mr. Yoshiyuki Hayashi, who is known as the founder of Denime and is a leading expert in denim making.We are particular about weaving and dyeing
Better photo of this pair
These ones are shrink-to-fit so be careful with sizing https://bears-tokyo.myshopify.com/collections/denime/products/%E3%83%89%E3%82%A5%E3%83%8B%E3%83%BC%E3%83%A0
BEARS' -TOKYO-
DENIME
[DENIME "Lot.220A OFFSET XX MODEL" OFFSET XX MODEL ]DENIME's new DENIM story begins.While aiming to reproduce the denim of the time DENIME was founded in 1988, we will update it with the technical capabilities cultivated by the wear house.denimThe XX that DENIME manufactured at the time of its founding has been thoroug
Better photo of this pair (Bears is best price but worst photos)
These ones are also an option. They aren't as baggy as they look in the photos (a lot of Japanese vendor photos use their employees who size up for skater style). I have a pair of these (but not the other 2) that I can snap a more accurate photo of if you're interested. https://tcbjeans.myshopify.com/products/cats-drive-jeans
TCB JEANS
Cats Drive Jeans
TCB JEANS OFFICIAL webshop is here! Top-notch quality jeans from Japan, centered on the sacred jeans place, Kojima, Okayama. TCB stands for Taking Care of Business, but in fact it simply means Two Cat Brand since the founder, Hajime Inoue, is a huge cat lover. Overseas shipping is free of charge to all customers.
Finally, the widest pair that comes to mind with a high waist https://bears-tokyo.myshopify.com/collections/full-count/products/fullcount-0105-loose-straight-%E3%83%AB%E3%83%BC%E3%82%BA%E3%82%B9%E3%83%88%E3%83%AC%E3%83%BC%E3%83%88?variant=34023282147387
BEARS' -TOKYO-
FULLCOUNT
[FULL COUNT, 0105, Wide Denim]denimA classic full-count jeans series that uses Zimbabwean cotton, which is renowned for its high quality cotton.This hand-picked super-long cotton is easy to make a sweet twisted and durable uneven yarn with a small seam, which creates elasticity that fits comfortably on the skin and is
Some better photos. There is a washed version too called 0105 Dartford. 1108 (or 1108 Dartford) is the same thing but slightly less baggy. Inseam is rather short too despite how it looks in the model photos
BEARS' -TOKYO-
SUGAR CANE
[SUGAR CANE, SC41947, 1947model 14.25oz Denim STANDARD]denimThis "1947 model" model is a vintage original model of the 1947s, with the motif of indigo's deep indigo color, which is typical of this era, and the blue color that remains beautiful even when it fades.In order to reproduce it, we scientifically analyze the c
I just got the 3sixteen relaxed cut
I didn’t get them hemmed bc i wanna wash them first though they are pre washed
but they cut is nice
I got them@in black but I’ll get the indigo when they restock
curious to see how they look. I always find it hard to imagine a jeans fit just from them laying flat somewhere
I just got a pair of really big woolen dungarees that aledgedly were made for the Australian Navy in the 1940s and once they are hemmed they will be so good!