Stuck at control board flashing
I was not able to flash my Octopus Pro 446 automatically, so I used an external SD card to flash the firmware. After a power cycle, the firmware.bin turned into firmware.cur, indicating that the Octopus Pro 446 was flashed successfully. However, RatOS still says Octopus Pro 446 was not detected. Clicking on "check board status" does nothing, and I cannot click next.
53 Replies
Here is my wiring, except I am using Raspberry Pi 3 A+
I have a feeling that this USB hub might be the culprit, but I don't get why it wouldn't work
did you already tried to find it in linux with lsusb for example
also, dmesg will help to check if the hub is the issue or not
Oh man, I don't know how that works, do I just type that into the pi?
ssh into the pi
then jsut execute
lsusb
this will list all recognized USB devices
yep, its not recognized
I'll try a different USB cable first, it looks like it is detecting the hub but not the board
try this, disconnect the hub from the PI, then execute
dmesg -w then reconnect the pi, the consoloe output should change, it tells you the USB connections status and any potential errors
sorry, not the hub, i mean disconnect the board from the hub
then run dmesg -w and reconnect the board to the hubHave you removed everything from the board except the USB cable and power in?
It detects as soon as I connect the MCU without the hub
The hub is indeed the problem
dmesg will tell you the exact issue
then we can probably fix it
it did found the board
strange that lsusb doesnt list it
@blacksmithforlife has maybe an idea, i believe he is more into linux than i am
I think it is probably more helpful to recommend some USB hubs that are proven to work without any problems and replace the hub
yeah
but it surprises me that this doesnt work
it does found the board and this without any errors
Strangely enough it was able to detect my toolboard on the side USB ports through the hub
It flashed my EBB42 but then saying it is unresponsive
when it says its unresposnive than you neeed to connect the printer to the internet
It is connected to the internet the whole time, bypassing the hub makes it responsive again
@miklschmidt 
need the mastermind for this issue
need the mastermind for this issueI do need to hit the bed now, but feel free to leave anything here, I will check tomorrow morning. I appreciate your help
When did you buy this PI? I know there are issues with ones made at certain times with the USB ports that make them act funky
It's only during boot (problem is it won't boot, works fine if you disconnect -> boot -> then plugin the devices).
However, @necrodavid please check your boards for USB_5V jumpers, those need to be off.
Furthermore, if that's still not enough, it may also help with a powered hub.
I think it's a usb port power limit issue, IIRC the pi3a is limited to 600ma, adding a non powered hub + three devices might very well be enough to exceed that, especially if you forgot to remove the USB power jumper on one or both of the boards.
Depending on the hub, it's possible for the OS to disable individual ports which explains why one may work and the other doesn't.
I'm 99% sure it's fixed with a powered hub
I don't think it is a USB power limit issue. I ran some continuity test with my multimeter and it is showing a direct short from the + of the microUSB port where I power the Pi and the + of the USB-A port where it connects to the board. The GND is also bridged across
That’s not what i’m talking about. It’s a hard limit on the USB-A port. Your supply is irellevant.
Continuity doesn’t mean there’s no logic in between.
And this 600mA limit is a datasheet thing, it’s not something i made up 😅
USB can also be current limited with software. That’s a controller feature.
Gotcha. I'm going to try soldering a wire across the + terminals of the microUSB and the USB-A and see if things change
but why could dmesg see and initlize the board correctly but LSUSB doesnt list it?
this confused me a bit
i assumed that the serial port name changed
the tty0 thingy
Let's see if this made a difference
No it did not make a difference.
Board connected without hub - Detected
Board connected with hub, and the board is the only thing connected to the hub - Not detected
It's hard to believe this is a power issue
I'm testing a different USB hub, if this hub works then it shouldn't be a power issue
I will just set things up with just the main MCU board for now, and I will worry about the toolboards later
This is a pretty extraordinarily bad idea 😂
It still did not change anything anyway. Does not look like a power issue since with same load from the board, it just won't work with the hub. I am waiting for a new hub to arrive now, and I went on with the config without the toolboards at the moment
I'm 99% sure it's a power issue. What you did with that wire doesn't change anything.
The controller still shuts off when it exceeds 600mA
But why would it work without the hub then, it is the same current
as in, it won't initialize the device at all
Why would what work without the hub?
You have 1 device versus 3 devices.
No, with the hub I still did not plug the toolboards in, just the main MCU and the hub, so it is still only 1 device on the hub
Ah that way around. What if you just plug a toolboard in?
That way the DFU on the toolboard gets recognized and can be flashed, but that's it, after flashing it loses connection
When only the toolboard is connected on the hub?
And it works without the hub?
Yes
So yeah, if it was power related, that would mean the hub itself is enough to exceed the 600mA limit, and that sounds dubious.
Then all i've got left is 🤷♂️ hub is borked.
regardless, if you get a new one, get a powered one.
I will also try measuring the current to just the hub with nothing else and see if it exceeds 600mA, before the new hub arrives
The powered ones are all gigantic, it would be hard to find one that fits in the box
oof
Is it some kind of mutant minion?
Hope the new one works for you. I'm worried about that power limit though. Should be fine if you make sure there's no 5V connection to any of the connected devices though.
Thank you. This is a V-Cast 1.5 IDEX 6WD, converted from a Creality CR-10 V3. It is redesigned at many places, like using V-Minion type of X motor cages instead of custom machined plates, and using oldham couplers and lead screw restraints on Z. Not to mention that the quad Y motors will make it fly
That sounds awesome! Never seen anyone build the 1.5 yet, make sure to post pics! 🙂
I have been posting pics about my progress in the v-cast channel
New USB hub works without any problems. Issue solved.
interesting
which one do you use now?
USB 3.0 Hub, VIENON Aluminium 3-Port USB Hub USB Splitter USB Expan...
3 Port USB 3.0 Hub, VIENON Aluminum Wireless USB Data Hub for Car, Laptop,MacBook, Mac Pro, Mac Mini, iMac, Surface Pro and More
USB 3.0 Hub, Aluminum 4-Port USB Hub, Ultra-Slim USB Splitter with ...
USB 3.0 Hub, Aluminum 4-Port USB Hub, Ultra-Slim USB Splitter with 2ft Cable, 5 Gbps Data Transfer, USB Extender for Laptop, HDD, Pc, Mac, Printer, Flash Drive, Keyborad
Both non powered. So power wasn't a problem
thank you
I should thank you instead for helping me