Enclosed v3.1 400 bed mesh advice
Just finished building my 400 and I am trying to get the absolute best bed mesh I can out of this thing. I watched the YouTube video that everyone references and got my bed down to .18-.19, but I feel like I can do better. As you can see from my mesh, my trouble is really just the right side of my bed. In the video he says not to move C up, but to push down on B. That didn't work for me too well and just made my mesh worse. I feel like it wouldn't be too hard to to loosen the drive cage at C, bump that whole corner up .1mm, drop the front .1mm and call it a day. If that works the way it should in my head, I'd have a pretty flat mesh. Any input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
15 Replies
I think you turned the view of your mesh wrong. The x axis is on the right side 😉
I guess then the right side is actually the back and you can easily adjust the frame to get rid of the high and low spot
Haha, nice catch
0.185mm range is insanely good, dont do anything about it
I played around for a while with it, had a random test get .15, but i could never duplicate it. seems like it settled in at .17
I would say 0.17 is very good. There might be a slight warp in your x-gantry, so you could try to loosen the x-rail gantry screws and then tighten them starting from one side.
Optimally you let the bed and gantry heat soak for half an hour to an hour, so you retighten the rail at printing temps.
But thats just chasing micrometers, 0.17 is already very nice on a 400
I'll try that. In the mean time of got it down in the .14's
hot damn thats beautiful
Does heat cycling "relax" any bed stresses? I'm noticing that as I keep using the printer the bed it is getting better and better. I haven't touched it anymore and I just started a benchy and got a .132 bed mesh.
Just gonna leave this here for future reference
thats cheating
@PSnewbie what adjustments did you end up making to improve your mesh?
I took my bed to work, put it in an industrial drier at 80°C for 20 min and polished it on a calibrated surface plate, check flatness with a FARO Quantum Max, rinse and repeat.
Edit: The rear left corner is raised from the build surface being damaged during shipping, no big deal to me, and the rest is probably due to the magnetic sheet being inconsistent, but there's nothing I can do about that.
I put down a couple squares of Kapton tape and was able to improve it some more.
Impressive!!