Print Bed PRoblems Part2
Hi after I have now unclogged x and y which I did once with a cold and once with a warm printer I have to realize that after 2 cooling cycles overnight it starts to suck again. The cold decompression had only made the whole thing worse. Preventively decompressing with a warm enc had top results with the first print. Now after 2 overnight cooling cycles it starts to go to shit again. So the printer turns out to be more and more a piece of junk for what I do with it. I have insulated the enc and fitted it with aluminum plates instead of the permeable acrylic so that I can get about 70 degrees into the enc with ABS. I only print with industrial materials and my own constructions do everything perfectly. The ABS PA12 and other types have a much higher glass transition than what you can buy as printer material. With ABS it is already 105 degrees instead of the usual 90 degrees... Therefore, I need the significantly higher temperatures in the enc, which means that the coefficient of expansion between the aluminum and the steel of the rails is simply completely out of control. The only thing left for me to do is to completely redesign the printer with a lightweight steel construction like my own or to get rid of the shit box and build one myself like the small ones because I no longer know a solution.
10 Replies
Im no expert but it looks like you have a tilt in your mesh. Meaning you can adjust the frame to get rid of the high (back left) and low (back right) spots quite easily.
This will probably get your mesh within 0.2 wich is not too bad for a 500
About the rest you said... well I have no idea, but if you want to get rid of it, I can pick it up for free in germany/france/switzerland to recycle it 😉
extended-salmonOP•13mo ago
right back corner is irrelevant. transport damage of the bed. Postal fall... you can recycle it by 2500 Euro. for free i gave it to my scrap dealer where I work through my company to sell my scrap. That way I would at least get money for all the aluminum... especially for the complete laser-cut cladding panels of the enclosure. so no thanks. But I don't think anyone will have a solution as it seems. The picture of the bed was just to illustrate that it has gotten worse again after the alignment. I came after the Heis relax from .155 because of the rear right dip. Up to the middle almost 0 but even .155 would be completely okay and could compensate for Klipper without any problems.
your frame is not square you angry man
get it square and tighten it
the bed is fine
you can get it in the 0.2 range as @oskait said
extended-salmonOP•13mo ago
@fluffy6082 Hi, I'm not an angry man. I was just somehow sure from the beginning that this couldn't work, but I was influenced by the many positive reports. Did you read my first post? I work in the enc with 70-95 degrees, which mathematically results in a length expansion at a temperature difference of approx. 70 degrees, which is 1.036 mm for the aluminium in relation to the X gantry and only 0.5 mm for the rail itself. This means that there is effectively no tension on gantry Y and gantry X only in the temperature range where I relax the rail on the aluminium profile. I relaxed and measured the frame several times after assembly. During the first few pressures with low temperatures or an open lid, everything was unproblematic, but now that I only ride at high enc temps, the whole thing is totally out of control. The gantry becomes so tense when it cools down, even if I relax it hot, that the rails move on the gantry with a huge bang because it contracts so unevenly. But I can't recalibrate and relax the whole printer every 2-3 prints - that's completely out of the question. But apparently nobody prints with such high enc temps and insulated enc with 10 mm felt as insulation. All printed parts that are still there are now made of material that can withstand 150 degrees permanently because everything else has become soft over time. The dip at the back right of the bed is as I said a transport damage that I have also measured on our Crysta-Apex S 123010. the bed falls off at the back right due to the transport damage from a 300 mm seen from the left and from the front 350. unfortunately, due to a long illness, I was only able to look at the packages after 3 months and then no longer wanted to complain. I don't think it's okay because it was my fault.
The bed magnetic bed and pei plate had marks from paving and or road. Unfortunately nothing remains straight. But the 0.25 is not a problem either. That compensates for Klipper. The only thing that doesn't work is the warping that occurs every week after 2-3 prints. Otherwise I'll have to take the printer out of the company again and use it for myself. I wanted to transfer it to my company because we print sample inserts on it, but they have to be stable because we sometimes drive against or on them and print edge tools for special parts. But if the first layer is rubbish because tension builds up in the frame, it's no good. That's another long explanation without being angry. The frame is definitely measured and straight. Even the printer stands on an adjustable table where you can align the printer again. I'm only pissed off by answers like this because you can send it to me for free. I'm not having any fun, especially as it's costing me time and money at the moment.
Ah Webcams do not Work under this Temps i must learn. ESP32 Cam yeah 6 Month to Die hard and stinky😂
The warping x-gantry is a known issue on 500 machines due to their sheer size. There are several mods that fix that issue, for example extrusionless x-gantry or even a dual rail one with spacers. No aluminium extrusion means no different heat expansion. That is something you could try.
I still think you could slightly adjust the frame as you have a high and a low back corner, even if there is some transport damage to the bed, the other corner is still a little high.
try this mod and adjust the frame a little as oskait said https://www.printables.com/cs/model/230716-ratrig-v-core-3-extrusionless-x-gantry-mod
Printables.com
RatRig v-core 3 extrusionless x-gantry mod od autora elcojacobs | S...
V-core 3 mod to remove the aluminium extrusion from the x-gantry and run on just the rail or a top and bottom rail | Stáhněte si zdarma 3D modely ve formátu STL
it is to counter the problem of thermal expansion and changing z height the main problem of the 500 ratrig as you described...The enclosure temps are not that crazy to make a 3030 frame out of alignment
@darkwulf183
in #high-temp try asking for some tips after you do the dual rail x mod if you still have problems
extended-salmonOP•13mo ago
it seems to be one solution. i am playing in my head with another solution like my diy printer with the lightweight steel frame for high temps. on my 300 printer it works like a charm. but not open source. so i think of the solutions and or sell the printer totaly and make my own 500... but the time and the time and time.... i think of it and when my covid is gone i make a point.
i mean just buying an extra linear rail and few aluminum blocks is very cheap compared to building a custom steel frame and designing a whole 500 printer kinematics from the ground up. Its not expensive to just try
for many people it completely eliminated the issue when they implemented the mod properly
extended-salmonOP•13mo ago
For me it is cheaper to build the Whole Thing. In my Company I have a Laser and CNC Bending Machine. That ist the Thing my other Warm Enclosure Printer are all my own Builds. And 2 I3 like just for Fun 😂 . However, I haven't done anything yet. Let's see in the new year. Or, as I said, I'll bring it back home to my ex Tronxy, which is also almost completely made of newly constructed laser parts. That's just the problem when you combine a hobby and your own company. You always find something to rebuild. Thx and Merry Christmas and a happy new year.