Heated Bed Edges?
Anyone else run into ASA prints warping because the bed doesn't hold temp edge to edge? Using all of my bed on the 300, couldn't figure out why it keeps warping. Laser thermo says ~25c drop in temp at the edges of the bed where my warps keep happening. Does someone make a bed heater for the 300 that goes edge to edge? Or am I asking too much of this printer?
18 Replies
And I don't want to keep cranking the temp, because I think I'll hit the glassing point/temp limits before I get the outer edges hot enough
25C seems like a lot. I would have expected the heat to move more as aluminum is a great heat sink
First ones at the center of the heater (set at 100c) second ones at the corner of heating pad. Can't hit the aluminum itself, cause shiny reflects laser (it only comes in at 32c even if I try it)
that's from the bottom where you are measuring the heating pad vs the aluminum bed. You need to measure from the build plate top
That's even less
Here lemme switch to infrared
One sec
That's center on top of PEI sheet
Figured under would be more true to temp (disregarding the print surface) as even without taking into account the aluminum, the heat still isn't making it to the outside of the heating pad.
Is there no max temp for the bed heater in printer.cfg? Or am I blind. Was trying to see if I even had the room to bump up the temp.
General consensus is max 120, cause adhesive for the heater.
That's your problem
I mean, yeah lol. Not sure how id fix that. PID is only between the heater and the thermistor that's built in yeah? So how do I calibrate to real surface temp?
I guess I could just keep cranking it and use my IR to see the temp.
I would investigate why it is so different. That is half of what you have it set as. That sounds like you have bad adhesion to me
I mean it's stuck on there, idk if there's another way to tell besides stuck/unstuck but I'll look at it tomorrow. Got a print going right now and don't want to open the enclosure atm
IDK, but that is not normal. If your heater it at 100 and the top is only at 50ish something is very wrong and I would figure out why before printing again
Well I did atleast confirm I have a 6m thick plate, and the 600w 280mm heater
Just to rule out if I had the wrong heater/ different thickness of build plate.
Can confirm adhesion is good. Do you know anyone offhand with the 300 that has a way to measure bedtemp? I'd love to compare across a few samples.
I don't, you could ask in #v-core-3
@nordern yeah you confirmed my suspicion, having 49C in the top center of bed when set to 100C means something is wrong
From your pictures you are getting a couple of degrees off which is normal. 50 degrees is not
fair-rose•2y ago
it might be normal too, as these FLIR cameras can't do shiny surfaces very well, so if part of it is more shiny it'll give a different reading
specially the aluminium, it reads all over the place on those
hence why the app on my phone has a thing where i can adjust what type of surface it is, but it doesn't really work that well anyhow
Which is mainly why I wanted to compare against. This next one I do I'm gonna take the pei sheet off cause the mag sheet isn't near as shiny
fair-rose•2y ago
idk about yours, but my mag sheet is very shiny
a pro tip is to put down some painters tape or similar, duct tape is allright to get a good reading off of
or piece of paper
though ducttape can stick really well, since something happens with the glue on highjer temps
Did painters tape, sensor said 110, got 86 on laser/IR both
Now gonna wait the 10 mins are try again
Now I got 98 10mins afterwards
So there is a drop, got I guess the previous surface was shiny enough to mess with my temp
Not near as bad as I thought