SKR 3 EZ Not Detected During Control Board Flashing.
I was able to flash my original SKR 3 EZ no problem and been printing for a few days / working out the kinks.
Well today, I noticed that the DC Fan Module arced and fried itself. I didn't want to risk damaging any other components, so I decided to replace the mainboard with another SKR 3 EZ.
I tried using http://ratos.local/configure?step=1, followed everything as outlined, but I can't get the SKR 3 EZ to be detected.
I think I got the first one to detect by holding boot, pressed and released reset, then let go of boot or something of that nature but even that won't get the board to be recognized.
When I pulled the SD card out of the mainboard, it reads firmware.cur which seems like it was accepted, however when I load into ratos.local it's saying that it can't connect to the mcu.
The mainboard is getting powered by the raspberry pi 4b that's plugged directly into the wall outlet w/ the included usb cable from the board and the jumper is in place to enable usb power.
163 Replies
This is dmesg -w from the Frequently Asked Questions but I have zero idea what any of it means.
Product: DFU in FS Mode looks like it is still in DFU modeWould a power cycle fix it? I thought it’d get recognized in the configurator by being in DFU mode
I would check the manual. However also looking at
New USB device found, idVendor=0483, idProduct=df11 that doesn't look right for a SKR 3 EZ. That matches other boards. @miklschmidt did BTT change the product id?Could it possibly be my EBB42? I thought I unplugged it before running it but maybe I didn’t.
I guess I don’t understand what mode the board needs to be in to get recognized in the configurator or does it get recognized after the firmware flashes
@blacksmithforlife
I think I got the first one to detect by holding boot, pressed and released reset, then let go of boot or something of that nature but even that won't get the board to be recognized.That will put it in dfu mode for flashing. Which isn't implemented on the SKR 3 EZ yet, so it won't do anything for you.
did BTT change the product id?Doesn't matter, the vendor/product id is set by klipper.
ok, so most likely he installed the wrong firmware?
I guess I don’t understand what mode the board needs to be in to get recognized in the configurator or does it get recognized after the firmware flashes"klipper mode".. It just needs to boot klipper (the firmware you flashed), nothing special, no shenanigans. No that vendor/productID is the DFU mode id I don't see it get detected at all outside dfu mode @_r34pr did you try compiling the firmware again and flashing again? It's possible that the bootloader is fucked I've seen quite a few btt boards lately with a broken bootloader.
I tried to do it a few times however I kept holding the boot button bc I thought that’s how it worked the first time.
I’ll recompile and flash it without holding the boot button.
I still have my original board that I can try to reflash too
I tried to do it a few times however I kept holding the boot button bc I thought that’s how it worked the first time.😬 Don't fiddle with the boot button. Just do exactly what it says on screen 😄
Compiled Firmware. Flashing on a 32Gb microsd card formated fat32 @ 8kb
Safely ejecting and plugging directly into the replacement BTT SKR 3 EZ.
Is it recommended to have the board powered by the psu or via the pi or it doesn't matter ? @miklschmidt @blacksmithforlife
PSU is the safe bet, but should work via USB power too
as long as you don't do both.
I had it set with the jumper and usb from pi last but I’ll pull the jumper and use the PSU.
How long will it take for the configurator to detect the board?
It's instant (when you click the button)
😦 it’s not being recognized
Excuse the hot mess of wires
It's probably the bootloader. Lemme check if it's publically available
I can also see if I can find a smaller micro sd card than 32GB.
I’m going to pull the sd card and see if it reads firmware.cur , double check if it’s still in dfu mode.
I can also try flashing my original board too.
Can't find it. I can add support for DFU mode, maybe that'll work.
I can also see if I can find a smaller micro sd card than 32GB.That does help sometimes
I'll look for one.
In the meantime, the firmware does read "FIRMWARE.CUR"
I'm going to try flashing the original EZ to see if I can get that one to get recognized.
Bootloader must be screwed on the new replacement board.
My original read just fine by being powered by the Pi w/ jumper.
If you update RatOS through the mainsail machine tab you can now flash it via manual DFU. Try that.
(it adds another option to the flashing screen)
Giving that a go right now!
Also, is it fine to have both the board and ebb 42 plugged in at the same time when doing this? I have it unplugged atm.
yes should be fine
updated ratos, attempting to flash via dfu now.
did it work?
It flashes but I am unable to hit next to move onto the toolboard section @miklschmidt
So it still doesn't get detected?
after it flashes it kicks it out of DFU mode
but then I can't move forward
I will try and refresh
correct, yes. it doesn't seem to get detected.
That board is borked
I would try and reach out to BTT
I'm 99% sure it can be fixed via reflashing the bootloader
that's super unfortunate but I will reach out to them and see what they say.
Should I just ask if they can provide the bootloader file --if that's even a thing (still a noob).
my original skr 3 ez flashed.
There's nothing visually that looks bad on the board...
I just wanted to be on the extra safe side and replace it just in case.
I'm running the 2209 EZ drivers for (x, y, z, z1, z2) and I'm getting a handful of undervolting X + Y issues that are very inconsistent. It looks like the EZ drivers can do 1.3A, do you think the default 1.1A is too low causing the issue? I double checked the wiring and all the pins seem fine visually (I only crimped the mainboard side and left the motor side as they came from the factory -did visually inspect that side though and the crimps are solid). BTW THANK YOU FOR YOUR HELP!!!
I'm running the 2209 EZ drivers for (x, y, z, z1, z2) and I'm getting a handful of undervolting X + Y issues that are very inconsistent. It looks like the EZ drivers can do 1.3A, do you think the default 1.1A is too low causing the issue? I double checked the wiring and all the pins seem fine visually (I only crimped the mainboard side and left the motor side as they came from the factory -did visually inspect that side though and the crimps are solid). BTW THANK YOU FOR YOUR HELP!!!
i should say that i was even before the dc module issue
Should I just ask if they can provide the bootloader file --if that's even a thing (still a noob).Yes, or explain the problem (it won't boot klipper after succesfully flashing), maybe they know something i don't.
I'm running the 2209 EZ drivers for (x, y, z, z1, z2) and I'm getting a handful of undervolting X + Y issues that are very inconsistent.Undervolting? Can you provide a klipper.log for this? Never seen that before.
It looks like the EZ drivers can do 1.3AThat is uncooled. Add a fan and they'll do 2A.
do you think the default 1.1A is too low causing the issue?No. That is current (ampere).
I don't think I saved the logs, and in an attempt to solve the issue late last night i ended up reflashing ratos on the pi so i wiped the history. I only have the error screenshot saved. I will double check that i didnt save them though but can also link the log if the issue repeats itself.
I figured id try to spitball the idea and look for any differences in the config file vs specs.
I won the SKR 3 EZ from the RatRig giveaway awhile back and figured Id try to make it work since I wasn
This is bad stepper wiring
I will rewire all ends to be safe and report back if the issue repeats itself @miklschmidt
as in loose connection, bad crimp, wrong pin order etc.
I ended up tightening the connections on a few pins, so here's to hoping that was the issue.
First boot leaves me with this error
Printer.cfg from previous working setup
Notes:
Pinout on the EBB42 changed bc a mosfet issue where the fan speed runs 100% of the time so I switched the part cooling fan to the extruder fan and im using the extruder fan as the part cooling fan.
@blacksmithforlife @miklschmidt would flashing from "firmware_binaries" help solve this issue?
these two have nothing to do with eachother
looking into this
I think I mightve updated Klipper before the board was successfully flashed.
Thank you though!
You need to uncomment line 282, 283, 290, 297.
Do not override your board pin aliases.
So delete from 315 to 338
To change the fan pins, just do:
Editing CFG now, thank you!
fixed the heater_fan name, forgot what it was called
extruder actually extrudes the right direction atm
ah yeah and it's already defined in toolboard.cfg, so you don't need that one.
Sorry for the photo dump.
looks good to me
But why are you looking at your stepper x/y cables?
oh because of this, right
Good
I triple checked the wiring diagram multiple times compared to the BTT SKR 3 EZ (for v-minion), and everything matches but I have to reverse my homing direction in both X & Y to get it to home correctly.
but yes for the above attached. There were a couple of mines that I clamped a bit tighter on the exposed wires and I cleaned up the clamp around the insulation.
No, this indicates stepper reversal
Do not invert the homing direction, make sure your axes are moving correctly instead
So SET_CENTER_KINEMATIC_POSITION
click the arrows
The toolhead should move with the arrows when looking at the printer from the front
Ie, 0,0 should be in the front left corner.
If it's not you either swapped X/Y or the dir pins need flipping
Voron diagram is helpful here (i need to make an RR version, but never got around to it)
if we're talking about a minion, it's even easier
I'm using the SKR 3 EZ on the V-Core 3.1
along with the EBB42 for the extruder stepper
Ugh, i just realized yeah.. The SKR 3 EZ is not configured to be useable on a v-core 3, that's why you had your board alias overrides, wasn't it?
yessir
yeah don't delete those then 😂
Sorry, i should've put 2 and 2 together
and im not well versed (as you can tell) with Klipper yet so I just basically copied and pasted that operation to switch the pinout for the EBB42. I will however switch that!
The ebb42 pinout shouldn't need to change
But the SKR 3 EZ would
As you need to map the last 3 drivers to the 3 z's
no worries! i wouldve went with the octopus or something but I won the 3 EZ during the RatRig giveaway
The mofset was blown or not working correctly because the part cooling fan ran 100% as soon as it hit power. I didnt want to exchange the board as they were hard to come by at the time so I switched the part cooling fan for the hotend fan because the hotend fan seems to run all the time anyways
The mofset was blown or not working correctly because the part cooling fan ran 100% as soon as it hit power.If you're using a 4-wire server fan, like a 4028, this is normal. It stops once the board is booted and connected to klippy (on the pi) If its a 2-wire fan, then yeah, prolly dead mosfet
it a 2 wire unfortunately
right, so you made the right call
but thats good to know for the future.
thanks for all the help once again.
saving the printer.cfg and will see what we get.
I had the PT1000 jumper on the SKR 3 EZ initially but removed it since I moved the thermistor and heater of the Rapido to the EBB42. Should that be okay?
I've added a 3z config for the SKR 3 EZ that you can use instead of overriding the board alias
Awesome!
just load config-3z.cfg instead of config.cfg
yes
you need to update RatOS first of course, before this works
is the bltouch a npn nc?
So from left to right it goes: X, Y, Z0, Z1, Z2. That is, X, Y, Front left Z, Rear Z, Front Right Z.
thats exactly how i have it currently setup
bltouch uses [bltouch] not [probe]
I told you to uncomment the probe lines.. Disregard that if your using bltouch
Just so rare that i see those i just assumed..
double checking the uncommenting lines and 283 was npn nc probes
I'm not doing great at suppor today lol
no you're not...
youre fantastic
🙂
It was, leave those commented out
I appreciate it 🙏
I'd be lost rn honestly.
I had a BLTouch left from a limp CR10s that I ended up reusing.
I'm not very well versed on the best components or the klipper side of things yet (still learning).
I do reverse engineering / cad design / drafting though so any kind of mods will be easy to design haha.
I haven't calibrated or setup input shaper yet.
but this is what came up from doing the original pin edits.
i haven't updated klipper, or tried using the config-3z.cfg yet.
I can do that now though.
I will double check that my Z steppers are correct first.
@miklschmidt
looking
There should be a
[resonance_tester] section with probe_points in your printer.cfg, uncomment that
It'll work fine, it's just a bit slow 🙂
I do reverse engineering / cad design / drafting though so any kind of mods will be easy to design haha.Awesome! I'm gonna be expecting some mods from you then! 😄 It's on line 255, 245 and whatever line matches your printer size at least in the last printer.cfg you uploaded 😄
Sorry ran to the computer to check the wiring
yep that looks right
original printer config edit after uncommenting the input shaper related stuff around line item 255.
If it's fine with you I can dump this and use the config-3z etc?
@miklschmidt
Yep do that.
Should the config-3z.cfg be nested under RatOS->boards->btt-skr-3-ez? @miklschmidt
in due time, I definitely want to help the community in any way that I can. Either by uploading/sharing my original ideas/designs or by helping someone else design their idea.
Yeah you use it like this up in the board section
i swear it wasn't there when i asked originally -_-
Probably needed a refresh 😄
apparently so -_- lol
new updated config
looks good!
Does it work?
its not tossing any errors haha.
im going to go home it and see what happens.
if all goes well, i will do the SET_CENTER_KINEMATIC_POSITION to fix the direction
Everything seems to be working as it should.
So I will reverse the pin direction in the printer.cfg
Do SET_CENTER_KINEMATIC_POSITION
I’m expecting it to move in the opposite direction, so will it be as simple as fixing it using SET_CENTER_KINEMATIC_POSITION or will I have to flip some wires around on the stepper motor cables?
After that I will move onto calibrating the machine. I heard Ellis’ Print Tuning Guide is helpful along with whatever SuperSlicer has built in.
That should help me get flow rate, input shaper, etc down.
Do resonance tuning and pressure advance after I suppose.
I mainly focus on reverse engineering and designing & printing automotive parts -mostly in ASA.
I picked the 500 for build volume, I understand that it’s not going to be an all out speed demon compared to a smaller bed size but I don’t need it to be. It’ll be light years ahead of the CR-10S that I came from.
I will need to reprint the parts in ASA because the EVA PETG parts aren’t looking great -especially the BLTouch mount rn lol.
I can’t begin to thank you enough for your help.
@miklschmidt
refer to this diagram as far as axes directions go: https://discord.com/channels/582187371529764864/1092981537596788786/1093275632777048115
After that I will move onto calibrating the machine. I heard Ellis’ Print Tuning Guide is helpful along with whatever SuperSlicer has built in.Ellis' guide is great!
That should help me get flow rate, input shaper, etc down.Input shaper = resonance tuning. It's a press of a button basically. RatOS has macro's for generating graphs, but you can also do SHAPER_CALIBRATE and hit SAVE_CONFIG then it'll do everything for you. Before you start tuning it's a good idea to run MEASURE_COREXY_BELT_TENSION, that will help you get your belt tension equal which is important for Core XY.
I picked the 500 for build volume, I understand that it’s not going to be an all out speed demon compared to a smaller bed size but I don’t need it to be. It’ll be light years ahead of the CR-10S that I came from.Don't worry it's still plenty fast 😄 you can expect good 200 mm/s @ 5k accel prints.
I can’t begin to thank you enough for your help.You're welcome 🙂
AMAZING! I’ll look into making sure my bed level looks good too. Idk if I should go crazy with it now or print all the parts in ASA and then fine tune it after I tear it apart to replace everything.
Yupp definitely plenty fast
I wouldn't go too crazy if you're swapping all the parts for ASA, do that after 🙂
the prusa/super/orca slicer presets should get you decent prints without much tuning.
basically just tune your extrusion multiplier and input shaper
Then after you've swapped everything you can dive deep into ellis' guide
Extrusion multiplier, input shaper and pressure advance 😄
Perfect! I appreciate everything once again and will start to tackle the calibration. I’ll try to reach out to the rest of the community before tagging you if something else comes up -I’m sure you’re a busy man!
I came from Cura, and now using superslicer as I’ve heard good things about it.
Thanks thanks thanks.
I’ll have to Venmo you for a coffee, beer, lunch or something lol
Have fun with it! Donations are not necessary, but always welcome, links in my bio if you want 🙂 Appreciate it!
After spending a good amount of time inspecting the cables, I feel really good about the pin crimps.
How do you have your motor voltage selector set up? And how did you do your power wiring on the SKR 3 EZ?
Verifying everything right now @miklschmidt
I used these two as my guides for wiring.
However, it appears as though I missed the jumpers for the stepper motors
that explains the undervoltage. As in zero voltage 😄
They are there but not in the right place
Ooooh the diagram is wrong
Sorry about that, will fix that
No worries about that at all.
So this is how the jumper is placed currently
That should work
It's a mess currently but here's an overview.
This error actually originally popped up even without shortening the wires that came in the kit. All I did was repin them and it tossed up this error so I cut them in hopes that a shorter run would help.
My thought process was to leave slack now and then tidy everything up when the printer is running without a hitch in case I have to move wires around and such.
@miklschmidt
That's all fine, it's the jumpers that caused the error
I've updated the documentation, should be online shortly
I forgot to move them according to the diagram for the board so they've been in this position the whole time. I swore I triple checked everything a million times because I didn't want to fry anything so maybe I didn't change them to match the diagram because I verified with the manual.
@miklschmidt
Ohh..
Well that's confusing
Yeah sorry about the wording
No i meant, why it doesn't work is confusing
Ahh, gotcha.
I originally tried to use the BTT EXP-MOT (instead of the EBB42 bc I didn't have a mount).
So I have 1-2 normal TMC 2209s that I can try in place of the EZ driver, or I can replace the driver with a spare EZ.
I can make a new stepper cable to rule out the wiring completely incase theres an issue under the insulation but I have 20gauge and not the 24/26 that it currently is.
@miklschmidt
worth a shot
I'm out of ideas at least
I'd try replacing the drivers first
https://biqu.equipment/products/bigtreeetech-skrat-v1-0-control-board
this is looking really nice right about now but i dont think it's a board issue haha.
I'll replace the driver and see what happens. I should really order a couple spare motors / parts to have on hand for troubleshooting purposes.
Biqu Equipment
BIGTREEETECH SKRat V1.0 Control Board
Purchase Rule: The first five buyers will get 5PCS TMC2209 drivers for free.
Hahaha
If you can't get it working i suggest hopping over in #bigtreetech and asking there
I forgot that I have a spare uncut stepper motor cable that was supposed to go to the extruder (thanks EBB42)
So I will try;
1) Replacing the cable
2) Replacing the driver
&
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UI86W26lgl0
I'm hoping the DC-Module didn't cause any issues.
If only my replacement board didn't have a bootloader prob.
TH3D Studio
YouTube
EZTip #4 - Testing and Checking your Stepper Motors
Recommended Entry-Level Multimeter: https://amzn.to/2DMY8s3
Music Sources:
From Zero to Zed:
Check out new tunes from From Zero To Zed here! https://fromzerotozed.bandcamp.com/
Subscribe to their YouTube channel for the latest tunes: https://www.youtube.com/c/FromZeroToZed/
**
❤️️ We love maki...
Would this files be useful to be uploaded somewhere more available for others?
Also, how does flashing a hex file work? Do I rename it to firmware.bin or just put the hex file in the root directory, or use another software program entirely?
@miklschmidt
Hopefully it's the 743 because the 723 isn't fully supported in klipper yet.
You need a .bin file, and you flash it via dfu-util.
That explains everything, it’s the 723!
Should do it.
Lemme double check, but i'm fairly sure that doesn't work yet.
So would that explain why it’s not getting recognized?
Okay so it is supported in klipper, but RatOS currently only supports the 743..
Let me see if it's something i can add quickly
You’re the bomb!
Ok if you update RatOS through the Machine tab in Mainsail, and then try to flash the board again by picking the SKR 3 EZ H723 in the configurator, it should work.
You might need to refresh the update manger by clicking the arrow circle thingy in the header of the update manager dialog on the machine page first
hopefully the pins are still the same, i'm 99% sure they are
Thank you very much sir! You’re the bomb! @miklschmidt Going to try it now but I’ll double check them to make sure
I had a print going when I messaged ya last and finally got around to updating (ratos, configurator, system, and klipper) after everything updated, I can’t connect my original H743 after restarting the firmware.
Will I need to run thru the updated configurator @miklschmidt ?
Uh.. weird! Klippy.log?
Oh no i know!
I fucked up, just a sec
The weird thing is that it noticed that it was the 743 and then after the restart it couldn’t connect to the MCU lol. @miklschmidt
update again and it should work
Sorry about that!
note to self: write a test to check for duplicate udev rules 
update again.. (found another mistake)
update again.. (found another mistake)Ahaha, no worries, thanks boss! You da best @miklschmidt updating now!
Lost connection with toolboard now lol 😂 @miklschmidt it looks like it might be in DFU mode bc the blue light is solid on it along with the green light
as far as i can tell that is unrelated. At least i made no changes to any toolboards.
Try and hit the reset button
on the toolboard that is
I just ran thru the configurator and it picked it up right away (didn’t flash it or anything) just hit next, took me to mainsail, and it’s all good now.
@miklschmidt
oh ok great!
I need to get myself some sleep, but do let me know if the H723 works, if it doesn't i'll take another look at it tomorrow!
04:21AM here :S
Weird it’s only when I hit Z-Tilt that it doesn’t respond but homes just fine
@miklschmidt
Goodnight!!!
Thank you once again!!
check the strain relief on the USB connector, needs to be solid so that the usb connector can't move.
Good night! 🙂
Did a reboot of the pie, power cycled the board, unplugged, and replugged the USBs and all was good to go.
I’m running a 30 hour print (probs 20 hours left now —need to look into finding a more accurate time estimator) but will flash the new board after ASAP.
@miklschmidt installing some PC Eva components and switching out the main board to the H723 board!
Ill let ya know how it goes
Okay, so I was able to flash it successfully using the configurator in DFU Mode but it's still not detecting the MCU in Mainsail.
@miklschmidt
However I have no idea what this means bc imma noob lol.
That's my bad, you need to include btt-skr-3-ez-723/config.cfg instead of btt-skr-3-ez/config.cfg in the top of printer.cfg
i forgot to tell you
Wait, did I need to flash over the file that BTT/BIQU sent first
You don't need that anyway so feel free to ignore 🙂
okay phew
Yes forget that one you're all good 🙂
I'll update the mainboard in the printer.cfg and cross my fingers haha
Works like a charm @miklschmidt
Excellent!