Large ABS Print Issues
Good Morning! I was hoping to get some advice on an issue I've been having with a print. The machine is new, and does great on small parts, but has failed every time I've tried to print this larger one. The supports/infill extrusions have poor layer adhesion and on occasion exhibit a "pulsing" behavior. Overhangs as well (long sides of print). It can print a benchy fine, and other test prints fine, it's just the large prints. First layer adhesion is fantastic with no warping and good extrusion adhesion between lines.
Info about the setup:
- Nozzle 0.8, layer height 0.45
- ABS Hatchbox Filament
- Infill 55%
- Temp. 215C (first layer 220C)
- Bed temp 100C (first layer 110C)
- Layer height limits 0.4-0.55mm
- LGX Lite
The speed/acc. has been slowed down as well as I noticed some of the filament wasn't cooling enough and following the nozzle afterwards. I have tried turning the fan on (10%-30%) which does help between parameter layers, but causes warping between infill and support lines. (pic attached)
11 Replies
robust-apricotOP•2y ago
robust-apricotOP•2y ago
The last move it did, the infill material began to bow up in the middle and the head caught some of the lines and completely tore it up.
I'm also running PAM as well which as removed most of the inconsistencies of the first layer. The printer is also heat soaked for 20-30min prior to starting the print.
IDK about hatchbox, but for my polymaker abs my temp is 255
Also what is your chamber temp?
robust-apricotOP•2y ago
I haven't set up a temp sensor for it yet, it'll be arriving soon though. After the heat soak it gets very warm. Only airflow in the chamber is from a v5 duo nevermore filter located in the lower half of the printer.
Chamber enclosure is made of 4mm corrugated plastic panels, with a 5mm thick door panel.
I use hatchbox abs quite a bit... 215 is way too cold... With my 0.8 nozzle, I use 250-255 temps with my rapido volcano... You'll prob need even more temp for a standard length nozzle
I think I also limit my max speed to 80mm/s if I want good quality prints...
robust-apricotOP•2y ago
@sherbs That would make a lot of sense... just pulled this print off after letting it run while I was gone. Camera angle looked good from one side, but didn't see the rest till now...
robust-apricotOP•2y ago
Also what besides temp and speed, what other settings do you recommend for a 0.8 nozzle with hatchbox? I have super bad overhangs, with the exterior perimeter nearly missing the supports or curling up every time. Also is there a fan speed you'd recommend?
@blacksmithforlife after getting the thermistor and installing it, chamber temp stays at a constant 38C after a 35min heat soak.
robust-apricotOP•2y ago
Very bad overhangs
robust-apricotOP•2y ago
@sherbs have you tried printing with a 1mm nozzle? Considering making the switch, but not sure if it's worth going through the pain of figuring out the issues again like I did with the 0.8mm.
Have not tried 1mm... I have a 1.2mm nozzle but haven't tried it either... 0.8 is good for most of the larger prints I've done
I do use more fan with the 0.8... Gotta get that plastic hot so it flows well but cool it fast so it doesn't sag under it's own weight too much...
Overgangs are tough when you go to the larger nozzles no matter what.. You can alleviate it somewhat by going with smaller layer heights but that somewhat defeats the purpose of using larger nozzles. And, not all slicers support using multiple layer heights...
Supports area also much more difficult to remove.
Best advice I can give is test, revise, test again... Simple cylinders, cubes, etc until you get good results
Then maybe test on a small object that needs supports to tune that as well
robust-apricotOP•2y ago
Thanks for the advice, I'll do some tuning later tonight and report back on how it goes. Think the temp and fan speed will certainly need refinements.