Z-Tilt, 12v Controller Fan, and More
I am trying to get my RRVC3 500 up and running, but keep running into issues and I'm tired of searching online.
64 Replies
Firstly, the fan.
This is an old 12v fan I had. Not sure if it works properly.
I want to use it for the board fan, but I don't want to risk booting the thing up and shorting something out. I have it hooked up a similar way to my 4028 parts cooler fan.
I have not turned it on yet. I figured I'd better ask beforehand, lest I damage something important.
foreign-sapphire•2y ago
make sure you have the voltage jumper in the correct setting for the 12v fan, it's the middle one
I did that. Should I go ahead and try turning it on?
foreign-sapphire•2y ago
that should be fine then yeah
Okay. That seems to be working. Can't quite hook it up yet, but good to know.
Unless you need to control the rpm, why not just use the red and black and wire it as a normal fan?
Secondly is the 4028 fan. The dashboard control is in reverse. 100% is off, 0% is full blast. I'm assuming the now running control fan is the same way, because it says 0% on the dashboard while running at full speed.
Because I'm trying to learn how all this works and make use out of everything here.
Well, the controller fan either doesn't work the same as the parts cooler, or the part on the fan got burned up.
Or the controller fan is the fan that's in the RP housing.
Then you need to invert the logic by either adding or removing
! from the fan control pinConnecting a 4028 fan | RatOS
4028 server fans are becoming a popular option for part cooling because of their light weight and great pressure and flow rates. In this guide we'll go over how to connect one and use it for part cooling. 4-pin fans usually aren't used in 3d printers, and many boards only provide 2-pin ports, but fear not! There's always a way.
Where in printer.cfg are the fan pins? I've looked all over in it and it's not there.
That example shows it with a
! so if you have that and it is running in reverse then you would remove the !Yes. Where?
They aren't there on purpose. Rat-OS defines that elsewhere. You just need to supply the overrides if any
In the section labeled
USER OVERRIDES
put
I did that and it worked. Thank you.
Okay, so what about the 25khz vs 100hz? How do I know which is best?
Will it sound different? Will I get an error on the console?
foreign-sapphire•2y ago
if it works, it works, if not, you can try and change that
Well, it worked. Didn't sound any different, so I'm assuming it's doing the right thing.
Okay, now for the Z-Tilt.
It homed out, I ran Z-Tilt, already pretty level. Left z arm went down. It cycled through again, left arm went down even further. Got an error saying, "Retries aborting: Probed points range is increasing."
Z-axis is running in the right direction, so that's not it.
Actually, before I get that answered, I need to know how to open and run RatOS on other devices.
I tried going through the whole hotspot thing and nothing would work.
You probably have the motors backwards. Z0 should be front left, Z1 back center, Z2 is front right. Use klipper stepper buzz command to check them
That was it! I don't know why I didn't think of that, but thank you!
I'm going through the rest of the setup. Just ran the tension test.
Not sure what I need to do here, if anything.
You are trying to get them to match so the belt tension is equal
Okay. So it looks like the lower belt needs to be tighter.
Ran the bed mesh.
It's pretty bad.
This is one of those things where if the machine itself is built a little uneven, the bed will be uneven, isn't it?
What is the variance? It can look bad but if the variance is low it doesn't matter
My most recent go, 0.618, which from what I've seen is pretty terrible.
Thank you for that. It looks like I'm going to have to partially reassemble this thing. Loosen up the framework and reseat it all.
if this fan has a onboard pwm controller then this is a not so good idea
I think I might have mistakenly burned up the PWM awhile back.
I put on 2 of those straps, loosened up the framework, gave the thing a shake, and it all lined up perfectly. Everything is now straight and square.
Well, it looks like straightening the framework didn't do much at all. And that's with the bed heated up to 60°C.
foreign-sapphire•2y ago
so a pro tip ( that i can't beleive i didn't think of myself... )
is to rotate the bed 90 degrees and probe again, if the taco mesh rotates with it, you can assume it's the bed, if it doesn't then it's more likely a frame problem
keep in mind, if you have the RR plate, and can't be bothered to drill new mounting holes for it like me, putting it on the holders with the balls off to the side works, but you will move the Z arms to the limit, and very likely crash them into the holders for the rods on the top unless you make sure they are at the very top...
Okay. Could have anything to do with the position of the sensor?
Also, how do I make it sample more than a 7x7 grid?
foreign-sapphire•2y ago
it shouldn't but some type of sensors are more sensitive to temperature difference of their internals, so that can be a factor, but i don't think that's it here
you change this in the printer.cfg:
As an override, right?
foreign-sapphire•2y ago
yeah in the overrides section
Alright. I'm running a 10x10 calibration. See what happens from there.
What if I flipped the flex plate upside down so it's smooth side up?
foreign-sapphire•2y ago
shouldn't hurt anything
Okay, now it's worse.
Let's try the smooth side.
... I'm starting to think I should have stuck with the 7x7 mode until I get a little closer to level.
That might have just made it more accurate.
Okay, turning it sideways now. Hopefully, that works.
I don't think it's the bed itself.
What could cause this? Is it the rails?
Seems this is a common problem with the 500. Especially the back, there. Wants to sag a lot.
Go on? Cause I kinda did that 😅
Try the following, move the X axis all the way to the front, untighten 2/3 of the y rails screws from the back until the screw goes a bit down but still is high enough to allow the rail to move. The rails will still be tightened on the front so the rail won’t fall.
Move the X rail all they way to the back and start tightening from the last screw you untightened. This will align the rails as more often than this prob is caused by the back part of the extrusions being closer to each other than the front parts.
You are basically aligning the rails based on your X/Y joiners instead of the printed jigs.
OH, I get ya.
Well, I did that and got this.
Then I did a similar thing with the X rails, and got this.
I only did the top rail (I have the dual rail mod) because my hex key rounded out on me
But given that affected things so drastically, I think it might be the X rail that's at fault.
Is this part supposed to sit completely flush or not?
shouldn't matter
Well, I went ahead and did what you said again, smoothed the insides of the rail blocks to make things sit more flush, and loosened and retightened the whole x gantry... And made the whole thing worse.
I'm moving this to the "fix my mesh" channel.
Its so pronounced it should be a printer issue