Bed Heater Failing on long heating segments

Been printing at 50-80 degree bed temperatures no problem. Just recently wanted to start doing some ASA and went to heat my bed up to 105. Started the first print, got a heater error. Looks like at about 100 degrees it stopped getting hotter. Restarted the printer, and with the temperature already fairly high I turned it on again. It got to 103 before it randomly stopped heating again. One more time, starting at 90, and it was able to get to 105 and hold it no problem. The best I can tell is that something is going wrong with extended 100% power input. That sounds like issues with the power being provided, but I'm not sure how to test that. I have a multimeter and all the tools, I just don't want to probe around without knowing exactly what I should probe.
11 Replies
EternalPath
EternalPath•8h ago
What bed heater? Is it the keenovo one ratrig supplies?
Aidan
AidanOP•8h ago
Yes
EternalPath
EternalPath•8h ago
Looks like the thermal fuse is faulty and it is activating at 100C instead of the spec value of 150. Heat it up to 105 and wait for the error, then cut power to the printer and use a multimeter to check continuity between the Heater power wires. If it's open circuit (no continuity) then the thermal fuse has activated). It resets when it cools down.
Aidan
AidanOP•7h ago
Gotcha You're talking about the two white wires? I have no continuity along them even when it is heating Okay. So long as the bed is turned on I am getting 1600 ohms of resistance over the wires coming directly from the bed. Even when the bed supposedly stops heating I am still getting that resistance. In that point I have also confirmed 120v AC is running through the bed, despite the temperature dropping
EternalPath
EternalPath•6h ago
Voltage doesn't run through the bed. It is applied to it. Current runs through. You can have voltage without current. Right you are it has a resistance not a short circuit, 😛 I just woke up when I wrote that
Aidan
AidanOP•6h ago
So I should be checking current through the bed wires as it fails?
EternalPath
EternalPath•6h ago
But 1600ohms is not right. What power/size is your bed heater? You can do that if you are confident you can avoid getting shocked by the exposed 120v wires while it's powered with a multimeter in series :kekw: Otherwise, heating it until it stops heating and then immediately measuring the resistance should tell you of the thermal fuse has triggered Not sure how you are measuring resistance of the bed heater with it powered on? To measure the resistance you have to disconnect it from the SSR and measure between the power wires.
Aidan
AidanOP•6h ago
500mm Ah yeah, couldn't do that in series So heat it, immediately unplug and detach it, then measure resistance over the bed wires
EternalPath
EternalPath•6h ago
Resistance should be 12ohms for a 1200W 120V heater pad
Aidan
AidanOP•6h ago
Yep, 12 ohms regularly. Temp starts falling, pulled it off and I'm getting NC across the wires It's strange that it will work if I step it up I've had the printer for only about a month now, do I contact RatRig?
EternalPath
EternalPath•3h ago
Yea that's the thermal fuse activating at 100C instead of 150,C So it's faulty. However, the thermistor could also be the issue if it's faulty or set to the wrong type on your firmware config so ratos thinks it's at 100 but it's really at 150 already. Only issue that could be your fault is if you changed the thermistor configuration in ratos If not, then contact ratrig.

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