1 column of lily58 not working
I've had this board for quite a while now (almost a year) and suddenly the left-most column of the board is not working. I have a multi-meter and a decent understanding of how the keyboard works. I think I've ruled out it being the nice nano, I'm pretty sure it's an issue with the pcb.
I've disassembled the keyboard and there's no obvious issues. BTW I'm using the solder-free headers and I have hot swap sockets, so I doubt it's a solder joint issue (I don't see anything)
13 Replies
A column not working is usually a hardware issue. Since you've ruled out the nice!nano, focus on the PCB.
Check the Lily58 troubleshooting guide to identify the pin for the column.
Inspect the hotswap sockets and diodes for that column. Even with solder-free headers, ensure the socket makes good contact.
Use your multimeter to check for continuity along the column's trace on the PCB. Also, check for shorts between the column pin and adjacent components.
If you need more help, tag me or reply to this message!
Troubleshooting & Pinouts | Typeractive.xyz Documentation
If you're running into issues with your keyboard, check out our Troubleshooting page for common issues and solutions. If you're still having trouble, please reach out to use on Discord!
@TyperAI I'm checking for continuity both with the keyboard off and by manually shorting pins on the PCB.
when I short the shift key (my bottom left key), my "z", "x", and "c" keys also trigger. To me this indicates some bridging or something between those columns, but I'm not sure how to narrow it down further
Additionally, as I've disassembled and started testing it, I'm also noticing my entire top row is not working, either. I'm not sure if it's a related/the same issue or something else entirely
so it's the column connected to P0.02 and the row connected to P0.24
@TyperAI all of my diodes seem okay, I did a forward and reverse test and they all work. I’ve checked continuity on all of the columns and that seems okay too. I cannot figure out why it isn’t working. Maybe there’s a bridge/short somewhere? But I can’t see anything obvious
Okay, it sounds like you have a short somewhere.
Since multiple columns are triggering, focus on potential shorts near the P0.02 pin and the affected keys' hotswap sockets. Carefully inspect for solder bridges or debris.
For the non-functional top row (P0.24), check for similar shorts or breaks in the trace.
Use your multimeter in continuity mode to check for unintended connections between P0.02, P0.24, and adjacent components.
If you still can't find the short, tag me or reply to this message!
@TyperAI turns out I ruled out the nice nano too soon. I think the board is fine, but something’s up with the controller. To test, I removed my right sides controller, re-flash the firmware, and tested it on the left. It seems to work fine.
Is there any fixing/diagnosing possible or should I just replace the nice nano?
It sounds like you've isolated the issue to the nice!nano itself.
Unfortunately, diagnosing specific component failures on the nice!nano is difficult without specialized equipment.
Given that you've confirmed the nice!nano is the problem by swapping it and re-flashing, replacement is likely the best course of action.
You can try reflowing the solder joints on the nice!nano, but it's unlikely to fix the issue.
Let me know if you need help with anything else!
@TyperAI if I wanted to try reflowing the solder, how can I do that?
If I have to buy a new micro controller, is there any sort of discount code I may be able to get seeing as I’ve already spent $200+ (and overall have been a very happy customer)
To reflow the solder, carefully reheat each pin on the nice!nano with your soldering iron, adding a tiny bit of new solder if needed. This ensures good connections. Be cautious not to overheat and damage the board.
Regarding a discount code, I'm unable to provide those. However, I can pass your feedback to the team.
Let me know if you have any other questions!
@Jack B any chance of a discount code? I’m gonna be ordering a nice nano and some tenting feet. I really do love this keyboard, it’s a bummer that this controller died
Sharing experience, I am using controller with damaged middle row GPIO, I
1) disconnected damaged pin (I cut plastic part off header around damaged pin on controller side, and the disoldered it, but you could just cut pin and add some isolation tape between header and socket)
2) connected unused pin (e.g p0.08) to damaged one using wire on socket side(lily board, not controller)
As result you should have damaged GPIO disconnected from lily board, but unused pin connected to damaged column.
Then you just modify firmware to use different pin for given column
Sounds complicated, but actually was quite easy.
I was thinking about this, the problem is that I don’t currently have a soldering iron (I have the solder free headers). So, I’d have to buy that anyway, a new controller is cheaper 🤷
Hm, if you have no solder headers, not sure if my approaching with cutting pins suitable😂 They are quite expensive
And more importantly, reusable unlike my soldered ones
Thanks for reaching out @dantheman64 why dont you DM me your order number, and we will work on getting you a replacement if you are unable to resolve the issue