V-Core 3 rebuilt after approx 15 mins of use...
V-Core 3 rebuilt after approx 15 mins of use...
Well. Firstly FINALLY got around to building my RatRig V-Core3 400... after sitting in the box for a few years. (bad car accident slowed me down in lots of bad ways)
Got the machine built, powered up and started to do some test prints...about 15 mins in, got a boatload of driver temp errors, and I shut it down.
Long story short... a couple of the Z steppers drivers FRIED on the Duet 3 MIni5+. I used the stock mounting standoffs supplied by Duet, but had no cooling fan on the board as the docs STATED that passive cooling should be 'enough'. NOT. Ugh.
Fast forward to today, and I have a NEW BTT Ocotopus Pro 1.1 board installed and I'm trying to get things working again.
I can bring up Mainsail and check things out, etc., but I'm noticing a couple of things are 'off' -X and Y axis home correctly, when commanded. -Z axis is a no go. Suspect it is because the Probe is not working. Just a guess. -BLTouch Probe is NOT lit up like it was before, debug commands are non responsive. Suspect incorrect wiring (I followed the BETA Electronics guide for my build) -My extruder seems to show a temp of -94.5c. What's up with that? -Bed warms up quickly when commanded and shut down as it should. -I have a 120mm 12volt Noctua cooling fan mounted above my BTT Octopus board and it cools it down quite nicely. (about 40c) It's only running in 2 wire mode as I wanted it to run 100% always. -My layer cooling fan and extruder fan are off; when I try a preset (PLA, etc) the heaters act like they are trying to heat, and then Kilppy shuts everything down saying the usualy not reached expected temp warning,etc. So...I had a working system with the Duet board for about 15 mins...and now I back to ground zero, trying to troubleshoot this new board and quirks that go with it. I have my printer.cfg. klippy log files etc, if I need to upload them. Would REALLY like to be able to use this thing again, ANY help is greatly appreciated!
Fast forward to today, and I have a NEW BTT Ocotopus Pro 1.1 board installed and I'm trying to get things working again.
I can bring up Mainsail and check things out, etc., but I'm noticing a couple of things are 'off' -X and Y axis home correctly, when commanded. -Z axis is a no go. Suspect it is because the Probe is not working. Just a guess. -BLTouch Probe is NOT lit up like it was before, debug commands are non responsive. Suspect incorrect wiring (I followed the BETA Electronics guide for my build) -My extruder seems to show a temp of -94.5c. What's up with that? -Bed warms up quickly when commanded and shut down as it should. -I have a 120mm 12volt Noctua cooling fan mounted above my BTT Octopus board and it cools it down quite nicely. (about 40c) It's only running in 2 wire mode as I wanted it to run 100% always. -My layer cooling fan and extruder fan are off; when I try a preset (PLA, etc) the heaters act like they are trying to heat, and then Kilppy shuts everything down saying the usualy not reached expected temp warning,etc. So...I had a working system with the Duet board for about 15 mins...and now I back to ground zero, trying to troubleshoot this new board and quirks that go with it. I have my printer.cfg. klippy log files etc, if I need to upload them. Would REALLY like to be able to use this thing again, ANY help is greatly appreciated!
75 Replies
Upload your debug.zip please
Hello- Thanks for the reply. I had to use a couple of diagrams as the one listed on the RatOS page did not include the Rasp Pi wiring. The one I used mainly was this one. since I have the H723 chipset - https://os.ratrig.com/docs/boards/btt/octopus-pro-h723. Not sure where to find the 'debug.zip' file but I'll have a look. I went back an hour ago checking wiring and my BL touch is wired exactly like the diagram shows.
This is the setup and the second image is with the controller cooling fan un-mounted for clarity.
The debug.zip is in the configurator. See the pinned post in #ratos-support for more details.
"If you're running RatOS 2.1 or above, please attach a debug zip (which you can download from the sidebar in the configurator) to your post." I saw that, but unfortunately I'm still on RatOS 2.0.2...not sure why it didn't update. Hmm...
you have to reflash - there is no update to 2.1 via the updater in mainsail
I've got a 3.1 still on 2.0.2, lemme finish lunch and I'll take a look. Drop your printer.cfg in the meantime
Thanks! Looking around, I'm starting to see some oddities...like my toolhead and layer cooling fan appear in the Dashboard...but no slider controls? That tells me they're not properly defined somewhere. Also my hotend extruder temp still shows -94.5 c. Something wonky there too, apparently. I must say the BTT documentation could be a bit better, but I digress....The Duet Board (RIP) was alot easier to wire and setup...too bad it self destructed.
I was able to follow the ratrig setup on dozuki with no troubles, I wouldn't want to reoly on the BTT docs lol
Weird that it gets named message.txt, are you not able to just drag the file into discord?
Yeah it warned me about files size? Trying again...
How sure are you that you have the 'btt-octopus-pro-h723-11' ?
lol. Maybe not so sure now...I did upload a couple of pics and in particular the MCU with the chipset visible. Thought that's what I saw...
fair enough. lemme zoom in on that and see if I can confirm
Definitely a 723, just not sure if it is the
-11My bad then...I saw the list and prob misread that as 723 ver. 1.1
alright, lets tackle these one at a time
extruder temp. If you heat up the hotend with a lighter or hot air gun or something, does the reported temp increase?
Let me try that with the heat gun...
Ok. Took the silicone sock off the hot end, hit it with the heat gun...no bueno. So gotta pull that off the board and check connections there. A multi meter set to Ohms should suffice I assume?
yep. A thermistor is just a resistor that changes resistance with tmep
Roger that, let me power the printer down, remove the cooling fan again and have a looksie at those therm wire connections. Glad I used brass inserts for the fan mount!
Ok. I cut off the 2.54mm connection ends, stripped back down to bare wires...116.5k when measured at the 200k range....so the thermistor might be ok, but the end connections obviously were not. Did I mention I HATE those little JST connectors? Neuropathy in my hands (among others) from the car accident makes these little challenges...a challenge. Thanks for you time and help BTW! Appreciate that!
Yeah, they're damn fiddly. I have pretty good dexterity and it's still difficult
Correction. That FIRST reading was the BED therm...so it's def ok. After reading the correct label and performing the operation again, I get 100.1 k when set at 200k range. And it appears that one of the connectors was not locked in properly so it backed out just a tad...enough to not work. And here I thought my wiring was all good. Heavy sigh.
So both the bed and hotend thermistors are reporting accurate temps now?
Yep. After an extremely fun time trying to redo those tiny JSTXH connectors, I can report BOTH are showing ambient room temps of 22.5°C and bed shows 22.5°C . Woot!😃
Looks like you've got a slider for the part cooling fan too
Okay, so bltouch is what is stopping us from homing?
Yeah, there is a slider for the fan...but it doesn't seem to work. prob because I have it wired to one of the end connections...which are always on. I also noticed there are no fans defined in my printer.cfg? Going to go to my doctors appt and as soon as I get back look at the connections to my extruder fan and part cooling fan. I didn't dare run the heater on the extruder without first checking to make sure the fan would engage at 45-50c first. Yeah not sure why the BL Touch doesn't even light up...it def worked for at least 15 mins on then former Duet board. Will revisit the wiring connections there too. Be back shortly!
the fans are already defined for you in ratos, that is why there is a wiring diagram - just follow the wiring diagram
Looking at your pic, I think both those fans are always on?
Strangely enough neither the extruder fan or parts cooling fan work. I used the build guide from https://docs.ratrig.com/v-core-3-1/v-core-eletronics build guide. I also D/L the BTT Ocotpus Pro 1.1 PInout diagram (attached) and that's the only reason I got the board up and running...needed the proper pinouts to the Rasp Pi and the build guide shows the incorrect locations for 5v and GND. Once I figured that out, printer booted up. I'm going to pull both the fan connections from the board and test them with my bench test power supply and make sure they still work.
Sooo.... I looked in the RatOS folder and only found references to 4 pin fans being defined...nothing anywhere about the lowly 2 pin fans I have installed on my extruder and layer cooling. That's probably why my fans aren't working...not properly defined. The RatRig guide I followed to build it with the Duet Board used 24volt fans and they are both only 2 pin. Can I create a new section in RatOS folder and list my fans with the pinouts there?
Don't edit ratos.cfg, put all your overrides into printer.cfg
Or if you'd really prefer, put your overrides into another file, and include it at the appropriate place in printer.cfg
But unless you changed the config, it already has the fans setup for 2 pin fans ..
Duly noted, however...I've yet to find any section that defines both the extruder fan and cooling fan. According to the PIN out diagram I posted, don't the pins need to be defined so that the board knows where to activate the corresponding MOSFET? I looked through my printer.cfg and found no references to 2 pin fans...only a section that says that default 2 pin cfg will be used if no 4 pin fans specified. In RRF it was fairly easy to do...you defined the fan and pins and made sure they matched your wiring pins on the board. What am I missing here?
Includes & Overrides | RatOS
RatOS uses a modular configuration that heavily takes advantage of the config file include and merge logic in Klipper. For this reason, the order of includes and overrides are very important, do not change the order of the configuration unless you know what you're doing.
All those things are in the included files for you to make your life easy by just modify the commented out lines in the printer.cfg. it's even easier in 2.1 as the configurator generates it dynamically
Wow. Should I just re-flash the board with 2.1? Worth a shot at this point I suppose. Also a drag to unmount the board and reconnect it all, but hey...if it works, I'm game
I also found a missing jumper on the board...lower right hand side has a Probe Voltage select jumper...this jumper was pulled off as I followed the RatRig Build guide that stated you have to remove ALL jumpers except those in marked in green. Maybe they missed the probe jumper? I have it set to 5V right now as the Duet ran it at 5 volts with no issues.
Depends on what your end goal is. Is it to build and learn about 3d printers and tinker? Or do you just want to set it up and be able to hit print and don't want to care about it afterwards?
Well...I really wanted to do both. I upgraded the board to RatOS 2.1 RC3 and now things are different... to say the least. BL Touch, still no life there, doesn't light up or activate. My XY steppers are making horrible chugging noises, and the Z steppers are out of the question without an endstop for Z via the BLTouch. I did like the new configurator, nicely done there.! Still no sliders for my other 2 fans, but the controller fan seems to turn on by itself...I would like to lower the temp threshold for that though. When it was constantly on, it kept things nicely cooled, around 40c. Now it lets the MCU get up to about 49 before turning on. I have a debug.zip file now , BTW. Hope this helps!
Can I get video/audio of the chugging XY steppers?
What fans did you want silders on and how are they wired in?
I'm going to loop up the BLTouch documentation on how to troubleshoot, it worked first try when I upgraded my voxelab aqulia and never had to fight it
Okay, after looking at your pic and the pinout diagram, Ithink your bltouch is pluggedin backwards on the board side
I also have a suspicion the white and black are swapped
Nope, that ones are correct.
Brown Gnd, redd 5v, orande servo. Black Gnd and white signal
Ah, so it uses PB7 as power and switches it on and off? Gotcha. I was thinking that was always on and would use the "other side" of that connector. alright
Does it work tho?
The pins in ratos.cfg look correct then
Thanks for the insight everyone. I'm rewiring the ext connector I had on the BlTouch as that's the only thing I can think of that would be causing issues. I'm also looking breaking out the Black/White wire and connecting those to the Z Endstop position on the board (stop2) as many have reported this works for them...go figure.
Oops. Forgot to include my reference. I was looking at the notes on the BTT OCotopus 1.1 github page and they specifically mention the IO ports being different between 1.0 & 1.1 versions.
The IO of Octopus-Pro V1.0 and Octopus (non-pro) V1.0 / V1.1 are the same, except the IO of proximity switch Probe port is no longer multiplexed with Bltouch and is modified to a separate IO PC5. Please refer to Octopus V1.0/V1.1 here The IO of the Octopus-Pro V1.1 is different with the differences being shown in the table above. https://github.com/bigtreetech/BIGTREETECH-OCTOPUS-Pro?tab=readme-ov-file
The IO of Octopus-Pro V1.0 and Octopus (non-pro) V1.0 / V1.1 are the same, except the IO of proximity switch Probe port is no longer multiplexed with Bltouch and is modified to a separate IO PC5. Please refer to Octopus V1.0/V1.1 here The IO of the Octopus-Pro V1.1 is different with the differences being shown in the table above. https://github.com/bigtreetech/BIGTREETECH-OCTOPUS-Pro?tab=readme-ov-file
GitHub
GitHub - bigtreetech/BIGTREETECH-OCTOPUS-Pro: This is OCTOPUS Pro o...
This is OCTOPUS Pro open source material. Contribute to bigtreetech/BIGTREETECH-OCTOPUS-Pro development by creating an account on GitHub.
how dead set are you on using the bl-touch?
At this point in the game ...not very. Very disappointed to say the least. Looking at inductive probes right now, but don't want to buy the wrong one...plenty of garbage hardware out there.
superpinda was the default on the 3.1, been working great for me
Here some findings from my 'upgrade' to RatOS v2.1.0 v2.1.0-RC3-26-g33980992
- Clicking on the filament ‘Presets’ in the temperatures tab crashes Klipper instantly.
- Gives error message about overloading the RaspPi
- Choosing a target temperature ie; PLA turns on extruder heater and fan. That works!
- Selecting target of 0 (zero) turns off extruder heater and fan continues to run as it should.
- BLTouch wiring verified, continuity as well as pin placements, all correct. Still Inoperative.
- Selecting cooling fan on dashboard shows fan animation, but fan is def NOT operating.
- Extruder fan turns OFF automatically at approx. 49.5c
- After crash, tried the PLA preset again and it works as intended. Huh?
- Selecting cooldown mode from preset also works as intended.
- None of my steppers are working now...basically sits there and shakes the printer, then crashes Klipper. I'm trying to reduce the size of the video I took of my Angry Hulk steppers...what a horrible sound that was! I have the screenshot right after they crashed Klipper here as well.
wtaf
Gives error message about overloading the RaspPithis is very suspect. Upload your debug.zip please
I agree...something has gone very south, not a good direction at all. @TheTik Here's a Super Pinda I found on Amazon...I'm assuming this one would work? Cable length a bit short though (27.5") about $30. Let me know if you can suggest a specific one, thanks guys! https://www.amazon.com/FYSETC-SuperPinda-Replacement-Leveling-Compatible/dp/B0B3131VMG?ref_=ast_sto_dp
FYSETC Prus MK3S+ Pinda Probe Replacement Auto Bed Leveling Sensor ...
Package includes: 1 set PINDA probe, compatible with Prus MK3/S/+, MK2.5/S, MINI/+. The pinout of the wires: Brown 5v; Blue GND; Black signal. CANNOT be used for MK2S, MMU2S, CW1, SL1, SL1S, CW1S, MK2, MMU2 and MMU1, please know before ordering.
nah, that is just a regular pinda that someone is calling a super pinda. they typically go for $60+
raspberry_pi: temp=47.8you should cool your pi
they are, it doesn't kick on til like 49 degrees though. Used to kick in at 40 according to their earlier post.
no, you shouldn't use the driver cooling fans to cool the pi
did you add
?
I see
MCU 'mcu' shutdown: Timer too close This often indicates the host computer is overloaded. Check for other processes consuming excessive CPU time, high swap usage, disk errors, overheating, unstable voltage, or similar system problems on the host computer. Once the underlying issue is corrected, use the "FIRMWARE_RESTART" command to reset the firmware, reload the config, and restart the host software. Printer is shutdownso yeah, I think the pi is getting overheated and throttling
oh, interesting. I don't have any active cooling on my pi, didn't think that was common either
I added nothing...this is ALL stock configs and settings. That looks like the same entry that was in the previous build as well? That's also why I'm a bit paranoid about the cooling fan being throttled.. .I had it hardwired to 12volt pin on FAN7. Fan 6 & 7 are always on according to the pinouts on the pinout diagram I uploaded and not voltage or temp controlled. After burning up 2 stepper drivers on my original Duet3 Mini 5+board that shipped with the RatRig kit, I'm super cautious of temps now. Talk about an expensive mistake. Still trying to get this video uploaded...this thing sounds like it wants to self destruct. Not a good day...
what kind of PI do you have? 3b? 4?
Oh, sorry Pi 3B+. If you look in my first images I uploaded, it's mounted in a small printed case on the extrusion frame. There is only the stock heat sink on the Pi chip. The case works great...except it has no fan mount. I wanted to print out a new case with a great fan mount...but my printer is kaput! Ugh.
I don't have mine in a case, wonder if that is why I don't need active cooling
I have some real nice Noctua 4028 mini server fans and that's what I wanted to print the mount for. Double ball bearing and designed to last. Also have some FLIR Thermal images I took of my last board...right before it died. First image shows the Duet board and the Pi in the lower right. Second Image shows one of the Z steppers getting hot...and that was all she wrote. The printer will be in it's own room so the noise won't be that big of a deal, thankfully!
those are incredibly loud fyi
I'm disconnecting all the steppers today from their drives, to see if they can at least turn with no loads on them. Printer is totally unusable at this point. Never seen such a thing before!
Wow. I may have just discovered the underlying issue with the steppers. Apparently this has happened before to many others...https://github.com/bigtreetech/BIGTREETECH-OCTOPUS-V1.0/issues/114
GitHub
Octopus v1.1 inconsistent or unreliable, erratic motor operation --...
I have been a fan of BTT products for many years, everything I owned that was BTT before worked flawlessly but after now three seperate boards im realizing there is a grave problem with the board d...
And it looks like I found the answer to the BLTouch issue as well. https://github.com/bigtreetech/BIGTREETECH-OCTOPUS-V1.0/issues/154 Hopefully this helps someone else. @Moderator You might want to alert the RatOS team to this, to be proactive and help prevent issues before they end up here.
GitHub
BTT Octopus v1.1BLtouch J43 · Issue #154 · bigtreetech/BIGTREETECH-...
Is it only me who has this problem of poor design? optoisolation LE357C. In tests it receives probe accuracy results: maximum 0.046484, minimum -0.431641, range 0.478125, average -0.148594, median ...
RatOS team reads almost everything in here. And this does not mean they could solve the issue. If there is an issue, it is a hardware issue, not configuration issue 😉
I can talk to Mikkel to change the bltouch z signal to somwhere else. But that means changing every single wiring diagram, all the configs, board infos, etc...
did you try the kapton or some paper to separate the drivers?
I just ordered some today. Was looking around and of course I have none on hand. Don't really want to put paper in there as it is a tight fit, and paper is def NOT fireproof. It kind of makes sense, though. I HAD a working system for approx 15 mins until 2 of the Z steppers cooked on the Duet. I change the board out to a new BTT Octopus Pro and low and behold previously perfect hardware starts having issues. I'm disappointed that BTT seems to be slipping in quality, but that's the world we live in I suppose. Thanks for the response and feedback, much appreciated! I'll post back when I get the Kapton tape in there.
Can you imagine the millions of octopus they made and only some had problems?
Send them an email or speak to Luke here in discord. I’m completely sure it will be fixed
Also, until you try it and see if that is actually your issue you are just speculating
Well...got the Kapton tape in...finally. Have not installed it yet, however. Since the printer is already down, I want to change out the Pi if I can, but have some questions...maybe someone has done this kind of already? I want to pull the Pi 3B+ and replace it with something a bit better, but also easier to cool down- a Pi 4B+(which I already had on hand). This way, I can re-use the older Pi 3B+ on another project and upgrade the Pi on my V-Core 3.1 printer. Questions abound, however. Can I just pull the micro SD card from the Pi 3B+ I was just using with Rat O.S. 2.1 rc2 and use it on the Pi 4B+, which is still new, in the box- untouched? Another option I thought of was to use the BTT Pi ver. 1.2.1 I also have on hand...is that hardware even supported? I know bookworm is still kinda new, so there is that as well. questions, questions. What sounds like my best option?
Grab the SD card and move it to the 4b
ratos is for bullseye, bookworm isn't supported yet
Some good news to report: Rasp Pi 4B works great, tiny little fan it shipped with is working quite well- (32.1 c), Put the Kapton tape in between the drivers -steppers are NOT angry anymore, and wow...are fast when homing X & Y. Still cannot home Z axis as the BL Touch simply will not deploy. The BL Touch J43 document I linked above discusses correcting the PB7 pullup issue, but I cannot find the reference to it in my printer.cfg . Does anyone know where this setting can be safely changed? Sounds like I just need to do the following: PB7 There isn't pullup, that's why it floats because the sensors are too small pullup BLtouch/CRtouch. The solution to the problem was simple, just make a jumper in J40 (set J38 5V) jumper DC-PB7. It causes pullup 3.3V R187 on PB7.
Forgot my output from debug- 3:02 PM
BLTouch failed to raise probe
3:02 PM
BLTouch failed to raise probe
3:02 PM
BLTouch failed to raise probe
3:02 PM
Failed to verify BLTouch probe is raised; retrying.
3:02 PM
Failed to verify BLTouch probe is raised; retrying.
3:02 PM
RatOS | DEBUG - _MOVE_TO_SAFE_Z_HOME:
axis_maximum.x: 400.0, axis_maximum.y: 400.0, bed_margin_x: [0, 0], bed_margin_y: [0, 0], safe_home_x: 200.0, safe_home_y: 200.0, printable_x_max: 400.0, printable_y_max: 400.0
3:02 PM
RatOS: Homing Z
3:02 PM
RatOS | DEBUG - HOME_Z:
x_homed: True, y_homed: True, z_probe: static, beacon_contact_z_homing: False
3:02 PM
RatOS | DEBUG - HOME_Y:
printable_y_max: 400.0, safe_home_y: 200.0, axis_maximum.y: 400.0, bed_margin_y: [0, 0]
3:02 PM
RatOS | DEBUG - HOME_X:
printable_x_max: 400.0, safe_home_x: 200.0, axis_maximum.x: 400.0, bed_margin_x: [0, 0]
3:02 PM
G28 Z
3:01 PM
RatOS | DEBUG - HOME_Z:
x_homed: True, y_homed: True, z_probe: static, beacon_contact_z_homing: False
3:01 PM
RatOS | DEBUG - HOME_Y:
printable_y_max: 400.0, safe_home_y: 200.0, axis_maximum.y: 400.0, bed_margin_y: [0, 0]
3:01 PM
RatOS | DEBUG - HOME_X:
printable_x_max: 400.0, safe_home_x: 200.0, axis_maximum.x: 400.0, bed_margin_x: [0, 0]
3:01 PM
G28 X
3:01 PM
RatOS | DEBUG - HOME_Z:
x_homed: False, y_homed: True, z_probe: static, beacon_contact_z_homing: False
3:01 PM
RatOS | DEBUG - HOME_Y:
printable_y_max: 400.0, safe_home_y: 200.0, axis_maximum.y: 400.0, bed_margin_y: [0, 0]
3:01 PM
RatOS | DEBUG - HOME_X:
printable_x_max: 400.0, safe_home_x: 200.0, axis_maximum.x: 400.0, bed_margin_x: [0, 0]
3:01 PM
G28 Y
3:00 PM
RatOS | DEBUG: Debugging enabled.
3:00 PM
ENABLE_DEBUG
2:56 PM
Welcome to RatOS v2.1.0
v2.1.0-RC3-26-g33980992
any overrides should be put in printer.cfg
Hmmm.. Just noticed something. Before I even hit any of the HOME buttons, I checked my endstop status in my MACHINE tab and it reports Z TRIGGERED? IS that considered normal behavior because my BL Touch is still inop? Endstop X OPEN
Endstop Y OPEN
Endstop Z TRIGGERED