My ratrig V4 can not maintain temperatur stable
Hi my name is Alvaro, I hope somebody can give a hint, I recently bought 2 Vcore4 units, the hybrid one. And I'm having Z wooble problems, because the heated bed and also the extruder thermistors, are going up and donw like a degree after 2 or 3 seconds, i try to do PID tunning 15 times and nothing changes, even with the standar parameter I can not remove that 1 degree fluctuation in both heaters.
Any ideas??
I just tested everything that I could, and follow the commisioning guide in the ratrig website, but nothing seams to help?
Could be a bug in the my RatOS??
Thanks in advance
45 Replies
Do your PID values change after running the config?
Upload your debug.zip
I will upload the debug.zip later.
The PID was made after doing all the comissioning process, it was the last thing I did
How can I donwload the Debug.zip I been looking to do this, but I can't find how to do it
I'm still on 2.0, looking around but not finding it yet
@blacksmithforlife 🇺🇸 Do you know where it's hiding? My googling isn't turning anything up either.
https://discord.com/channels/582187371529764864/1233461645167169576/1300167486624235564
not sure if it is there in 2.0
ah, right, no configurator in 2.0. Thanks pal
ohh the configurator is there - it just doesn't do as much as in 2.1. In 2.0 it just sets the wifi
and flashes boards 😄
This is my debug file
you haven't PID tuned your hotend
yes I did but it was fluctuating 1,5 degress so use chat GPT to tune in better. So I add the values manually and now fluctuates 0.2 - 0.3 that's the best I can get
You'll be hard pressed to get better results with klippers PID tuning. This is expected performance.
RatOS doesn't touch heaters, that's all klipper.
I dont know what is happening but I got another machine running fluidd right now, that holds temperature way better that the rat rig, doing just a regular PID
Is this the expexted quality of this machine??? I checked everything machanical and looks fine, the only things that may produce this is the 1 degree fluctuacion of the bed
A regular pid will get that close, and I have NO idea how you'd use chatgpt to make an improvement when it isn't connected. But good luck with your experiments
what type of thermistor and where is it plugged into? I had issues that even with a PID but using the MAX31865 chip caused it to swing +/- 2 degrees. I switched to just a normal thermistor port and it only would swing +/- 0.1 degrees (an order of magnitude lower!)
I just gave it the actual PID values and the oscilations of the temperature with that values, it gave me new values, and it improved from 1,5 degress to 0.6, so I ask again for new values saying the new fluctuation, and it was able to get the temperature oscilating 0.2 0.3 degress
I don't know is not supposed to be configured automatically?? I think you can not select the type of thermistor for the bed. For the hot end I'm using the PT1000, is the rapido 2 UHF, in the cables it has a sticker that says pt1000b
No, assuming you are on Ratos 2.1 you have to select it in the configurator.
Yes the one from the hotend, you can select it, but the one from the heated bed you can not
Sorry, I misunderstood. If you have the Ratrig one it should be plug in play.
Yeah that what I supposed also, but it doesn't feel like that 😓
Mine works fine, alhough it does have a tendency to overcompensate on initial reaching of desired temperature, but then it settles after couple of minutes, which is no big deal since I have to heat soak anyway.
a 1 degree fluctuation on the bed will not create those artifacts. Those are mechanical.
could easily be something like poor cooling settings too
grab the nozzle and wiggle it, if there's any play you made a mistake and need to fix it.
Check that your thrust bearings below the z couplers are properly seated (they need to be flush), check that your decouplers slide smoothly, etc.
Mechanical everything is correct, I can move the leadscrews perfectly smooth no problem at all with that.
I check everything there nothing seams to be wrong.
That temperate change can produce this king of problems, I've seen that in older machine, when mechanical relays where used instead of SSR relays.
It feals to me that klipper is not using the pwm as fast as it could be, because this same relay with a marlin is flashing the LED like crazy when is close to the target temperature, klipper is waaaay slow
That temperate change can produce this king of problems, I've seen that in older machine, when mechanical relays where used instead of SSR relays.Not a 1 degree fluctuation (measured in the heater) on a bed that thick, no. And yeah sure mechanical relays are very different. That's akin to using watermark That can indeed cause these artifacts, but such a low temp variation with PID - no way. you need a higher fluctuation with a bed that thick.
It feals to me that klipper is not using the pwm as fast as it could be, because this same relay with a marlin is flashing the LED like crazy when is close to the target temperature, klipper is waaaay slowIt's running 50hz PWM. You can monitor the realtime pwm value in mainsail. Feelings aren't very useful when you have actual measurements. If it's doing something weird, you did something wrong
I dont know, but I'm not a nooby in 3d printing I build my onw machines since 2013, I build looots of diferents machines, and I think that I got a pretty good expiriences with 3d printing. ( Not saying this to show of my self, just to you to know that I know what I'm doing )
In the electronics everything is properly connected, mechanical doesn't feel to be anything off, I will try to fix this but is a mystery to me, nothing I try help even a litte bit.
take the heated bed out of the equation then and don't heat it at all during a print. then do a test print and see if you still see the issue. If you do, you know it isn't Bed related
Naah there is something happening with the machine, I have 2 here with the same problem, even someone send me an image from formnext, rat rig booth, V4 printing and has the same problem mines have, it can not be casual
That's what 3d prints look like with top down lighting. Your artifacts are way worse.
You could argue that this shouldn't be there, but that looks like cooling to me (ie layer time was shorter, so print was cooled down less than the previous/subsequent layers).
i have seen the prints at the formenxt, the light there is a bad as it can be for prints
Yes of course I send a picture like this seams ok
And looks fine
I have here 2 machine 50x50, both do the same, and I also I'm talking with someone with the same problem. I dont know whats the problem, but I'm 99% shure is not something I did wrong
What else would it be?
Good question, but it seams that the customers should discover what the problem with their machines
It is a DIY kit, after all. If you wanted rat rig support, you should e-mail rat rig, this is a community server, none of us are rat rig employees.
Yes, I'm here because they send me here, I ask first to them, sorry for bother you guys
Btw, when i said this i was talking about the PWM on the bed.
Don't be sorry, we're here to help eachother, the #ratos-support section is specifically for RatOS bugs however, and this isn't one from what i can tell. Maybe you'll have more luck in #fix-my-print, there are people there much better at tuning than i am 🙂
I'm not mad at you or something, but this places are perfect to missunderstand stuff, let me clarify that
I really apriciatte you ideas
Yeah text communication is easy to misinterpret for sure
But I think I will remove the RatOS, and also the coreXY and I will reuse everything to covert this to a cartesian, I dont need to print fast
😉
Imo that's not a good idea, but your kit, your choice 🙂