Debris in heatbreak, wonky rapido thermistor?
I recently switched from a rapido 1/lgx lite/ratos 2.0 configuration to a rapido 2+ UHF/orbitor 2/ratos 2.1 configuration.
I am frequently (effectively every time) getting debris between the heat break and the extruder after a filament unload. Mikl made a change to the 2.1 code base to potentially remedy this but at the moment I'm still hosed.
There is an accumulation above the heat break that is preventing me from loading filament. I've tried cleaning it out with metal rods and with filament without success in either case.
Any suggestions as to how I might clean this out?
During the investigation, I set the temperature of the hotend to 270 per the instructions for the bondtech CHT, though when I measured the temperature on the outside of the heat block just below where the wires are, it measured 237. I'm not sure how much heat is lost across that distance but it seems like it ought to be higher than that. Is this an indication of a wonky thermistor, or is this just heat loss across that short distance?
Solution:Jump to solution
Heat up the nozzle, remove it, then heat up the steel rod to high temp (gas stove) and try pushing it through, don't let it sit too long it may affect your PTFE tube. If that doesn't work I'll let you know a more complicated version. If it works I would f investigate the length of your PTFE tube, maybe a little short, and make sure the nozzle is tight.
12 Replies
Solution
Heat up the nozzle, remove it, then heat up the steel rod to high temp (gas stove) and try pushing it through, don't let it sit too long it may affect your PTFE tube. If that doesn't work I'll let you know a more complicated version. If it works I would f investigate the length of your PTFE tube, maybe a little short, and make sure the nozzle is tight.
Yeah, I did that. it wasn't working so I came over to my desk to type up the above, and when I went back it was clear again. 🤔
maybe having left it on at 270 for long enough?
That temp sounds low. Some have a factory defect. Also in the bottom of the orbiter that fits the tube, it can be adjusted. Make sure there's a little pressure on the tube
what's the more complicated version?
the brass fitting? It looked like it was fixed in place. How do you adjust it? Or do you mean to adjust the tube?
On mine there was a slot, I remember having to adjust it because it was out too far and rocked on the plate
It also looked stainless
oh, I see now. Guess I never noticed. Could have sworn it was brass, too. Shows how much attention I paid to that little part 😄
Heh
How did you measure for cut the tube?
I don't think that's the problem though. I measured by taking the old tube out after marking the top of it, then using a micrometer to measure the depth of the hole in the extruder to add that much extra length on it. The clog is happening well below that, though
A thermistor probe on a multi meter would be handy right about now
I only have a K-type thermocouple on a fluke 87
sorry, should have replied instead of just posting. What's the more complicated version? What you described is exactly what I did, and it didn't work, initially.
Remove the nozzle and unmount the rapido, but leave it it connected, remove PTFE tube, put something on the Rapido so you don't burn yourself or remount it without the PTFE tube, heat up to whatever that filament required, slip the wire rod through the nozzle opening, let the rod heat up and then try pushing through. If unmounted , it can potentially screw up your thermistor wire if you don't do this very carefully, the wire is very delicate. I did this twice without remounting just holding in my gloved hand and was crapping in my pants, but fortunately no accidents.
😆got it, thanks
@cgrr @CrashTestCharlie / VC4 400h thanks to you both for your help. Wish me luck 😉