VC4 400Hybrid What am I looking at here?
Following the guide I get to belt tension test. Y motors unplugged and belts disconnected. Not gunna lie I just folded the belt in half and cut it then pulled each as tight as I could and locked it all down with tensioners full loose, then tightened until it felt right, fined tuned to align gantry and happen to have same length hanging out so?. What's this mean tho? Do I need to pull 1 more tooth through on the upper? Did I nail it? Both to loose? to tight? I watched a very in-depth youtube video and nope I have no idea how to translate this to my machine. As far as I can tell it looks pretty clean?
42 Replies
looks decent. The orange belt has a bit of an lower frequency which means its less tight than the blue one.
The bump over at 125 might be something loose on the toolhead that is rattling.
have you made sure that there is the same number of teeth between the clamps?
Think the toolhead is my beacon. Looks a little floppy. Nope no idea about the tooth count. Like I said I just folded and pulled. Worked on my enders z belts but I did print out that belt lenght checker deal and might run them threw but if it looks good then should I bother taking it all apart to check that? Or just move on the attaching the y motors.
Took it all apart. Belts where same length. Reassembled and graph was about the same. Did some adjusting and somehow managed this but where did the second hump go?
There is no first spike for the y resonance. Something is either loosen or tight/misaligned causing it to be dampened. When you say you took it apart did you just take the belts out or did you take the entry gantry out?
Can you post your input shaper results as well?
yeah i binds a ton when both belt are equal like this graph. the lower gets so tight it pulls the gantry away from the y end stop by 3-4mm.
no i didnt take the entire gantry out. i pulled the belts. amde sure they equal lenght. made usre everything turns easy. realigned gantry to the stops and reinstalled belts
then maybe the gantry is not square..... if you take the tension off of the belts from the front tension block (do not remove the belt from the clamps, does it touch the back stepper blocks evenly if you push it from the middle?
no. the differant is about the 3-4mm it tweaks with equal tension. gantry is equal on the front tho? ill align it to the rear and report back in 5-10
the front will not align unless you remove the Y endstop as its in the way once its installed
I use the back typically or you can temporarly remove the y endstop screw and do that
with no tension on the belts you want the gantry to be square. The belts "may" pull it back aligned but its best to start square and keep it square through each of the steps
Ive been putting 123 blocks in the front to clear the endstop. 1st tension graph looked pretty solid. gave them 1/8th turn and sent it again.
right now it looks like this. call it a day?
so the only thing differnate i did this time was align it to the rear vs the front. the guide says front and if graphs look bad to realign to the front. should they be changed to the rear?
at this point 1/8 of a turn is massive. I would look at like 1/16 to 1/32 turn.
they have you align it to the front before the y endstop is there. That should work the same as the back. Not sure why you were getting that.
so at this point your upper belt looks a little looser compared to the lower. You also have some extra noise on it out at 125hz. do you have any wires loose by chance?
lots of more tie straps 🙂
ran out.they be here tmrw
just be careful you dont put to much pressure on the USB C connector to the toolboard. I am not sure if that is your extra noise but maybe. You can play with the realtime analysis tool and see if you can find whats causing that spike. Check out your shaper graphs as well and see if you see anything there.
I would give that upper belt the smallest of the smallest tension increase to see if you can get the top frequencies to match. Like 1/32 of a turn or less as I think you are that close. Then tie strap it up and check it again to see if you can clean up that extra noise. Then check the shaper graphs and if they are good move on to either printing or installing your hybrid belts if you have them
this feels like a waste of time as my idex kit is ordered. have to do it all over again
running shaper now
you in the US? if i have some pcbs made to fit even more leds into the corners you want some?
I've been playing with going with 2020s as well but they are so small and hard to work with
1/24th of a turn. found a zip tye for the real loose one. as it sits now.
yeah fuckit then stop fiddling with it for now
its a "learning" experience. Supposedly tuning IDEX is a pain in the butt. Knowing how to tune corexy will be a useful skill 🙂
Yup, this will help tremdusly when I finish my scrapyard "TriCoreDex" project. It makes sense that aligning gantry to the motors fixes this issue, i guess gantry to tensioner isnt a critical measurement where as gantry to motor blocks is. Anyway I went ahead and connected the Hybrid motors and belts. Those are at 80Hz when plucked. Graphs look like this now. Do I readjust the corexy belts now to even them out?
The frequency shift of the gantry after attaching the belts is interesting, would have thought it would go down not up.
yeah but with upgrading to hybrid you are gonna need to redo it anyway 😄
I am a glutton for punishment and to me this would be a good learning experience to better understand my printer 🙂 Either way I think Belly while your graph is not great on the belt tuning the shaper graphs are good enough if you wanted to use the printer until you get your IDEX upgrade.
dont fight something that might get solved by the partial rebuild 😄
haha I like going uphill. Its when I learn the most 🙂 But yah, start melting some plastic
I recommend focusing on the IS graphs more than the belt tension graphs.
so that belt tension graph, one with the IS graphs is with the hybrid belts attached. I didnt touch the corexy belts after the graph i posted 9/1 12am, the second to newest post. It prints pla ok right now, until my glass for enclosure is done.
Read through the link to mazas. detached hybrid, removed front tension blocks, gantry against bearings (in place of the m10 nuts), loosened the 6 bolts on gantry and 8 on carriages. retightened, both gantry sides still tight to bearings. slide gantry to mid y, reinstalled tension blocks tightening them down left then right 1/4 turn at a time until it felt pretty tight. homed printer, measured toolhead front belt clamp bolt head to center of first bearing bolt head on gantry, was almost spot on center. plucked belts to 112hz. this the the resulting graphs.
Excellent you seem to have a good gain in Y.
For a non hybrid mode V-Core 400 those are I think acceptable values.
You have some resonance at about 85hz in Y. I would be looking for something smallish that might be resonating on your tool head at those higher frequencies.
Check your heater, thermister and fan cables can't move around.
Make sure you are not using a maglev part cooling fan (you want bearings not maglev).
Sometimes little things like changing from a light weight oil to a lightweight grease for the linear rail bearings can stop them vibrating in the carriage.
cut it in half with a few more zip ties. down from 0.1 to 0.05.
some of it may be coming from the smart sensor? since it makes the motor tab thicker basically then the included standoff is to long and wont fit so I still need to trim that down and reinstall it. this would cause extra board mount floppieness I would think.
Yeah maybe. I have experimented with and without extra bracing on the back of the Orbiter, Sometimes it makes a very slight difference and sometimes it makes no difference at all. But thoses are the sorts of things worth experiementing with if you get OCD about this....as some of us have done.
Are you going to install the hybrid Y belts on this too?
im ready too
if its time
Send it
Ran home for lunch and it has been fully sent. This is with y belts attached. those are tuned to plucj at 80ish hz. just felt right idk, zero science behind 80hz.
im always a bit amazed that people manage to pluck their belts and see something on the apps. For me its always just a crapshoot.
almost doubled y acceleration which is nice