DFU not working Octopus 1.1 Pro H723
I get the message the advisory that it DFI os detected and it is flashing and then I get the status message DFU not detected, waiting for DFU
102 Replies
Then this
Then this
Did you remove the boot jumper after flashing?
o
No
yeah, after you successfully flash in DFU you have to remove the boot jumper otherwise it will just go into DFU mode again
so do the steps 1-4 listed
5) click the flash button
6) after it finishes, remove boot jumper
7) reset
8) continue on
The instruction say to remove the boot jumper before doing the flash (See attached images above)
See second image I posted
well, that is a typo then I assume
@miklschmidt Blue text: "Makes sure to remove the BOOTO jumper before flashing"
maybe mikel is trying to be efficient and have the user pre-remove the jumper while in DFU mode, so that upon reset it will automatically not be in DFU mode
Do you think I shoud try leaving the jumper in while I try the reflash?
sure, it won't hurt anything
Here goes...
.....
Says it is flashing (which is what it also said before)....
What colour should any smoke be?
Now it displays this.
did it error while flashing? If not, remove the jumper and reset the board
No error.
To restart board I need to turn power off and on
no, you hit the reset button shown in the photo
Ok done that
might need to refresh the page (I haven't spent as much time as I should with the new configurator)
but if you go through from http://RatOS.local/configure?step=1 again, it should pick up that it flashed correctly
Refreshing page just takes me back to this page.
Groundhog day....
Yes
will it allow you to click "next"?
Hold on going to try manual option.
Using balena etcher I get this....
I have hit continue
you are using a different SD card than the one you are using for you PI correct?
you need 2 SD cards. One you write the PI RatOS image to, the other is just formatted as a FAT filesystem, and you write to it like any normal filesystem
Yes I am using the care I was previously using for my SKR 1.2 Pro
ok. you will need to reformat it according to the instructions on the configurator screen
it should be the same as https://os.ratrig.com/docs/installation#preparing-your-control-board
Additionally, it should be formatted with either FAT16 (sometimes just called FAT), or FAT32 with a cluster size of 8kb or 4kb
I dont seem to have an option of a cluster size of 8kb or 4kb just 1 kb?
OK now I do
Nup manually doing it has not worked either
did the filename change from
firmware.bin to firmware.cur?I guess I have to plug it the SD card back into my PC to check that?
yes
Plugged it in and turned printer back on and I can get to this screen of the configurator but no further...
Same as where I was getting to before.
Looks like BTT sent me the F466 version of the board instead of the one I thought I had ordered.
So trying to load the wrong firmware image
OK that was the issue
Many thanks for your help earlier today.
bingo
Just as further info: Balena etcher is for writing a disk image to a storage device. When flashing via SD you just need to put a firmware file on a formatted card. The firmware is flashed to the mcu on the controlboard, not to the sd card, if that makes sense.
that explains a lot
And PB0 and PB10 are also swapped on this board from the pinout on git hub for the Octopus Pro 1.1 ....which is really weird.
What does it say on your board? What's the specific model and what MCU is on it.
Yep but I am looking at the Pro 1.1 pin our diagram...
Actually I am betting that pin out drawing has not been updated.
Yep sure enough that diagram is different from the one in the Octopus V1.1 Pro manual. Spoke to soon it is different from the one in the V1.0 manual and V1.1 and V1.0 are supposed to have those two pins swapped....but they are not swapped on my board.
Will take care of it…
This is because the board is already on dfu. No need for the jumper if not going to dfu again
In the configurator which option should I have selected? There doesn't seem to be an option for this board?
Balena is giving tones of errors. Use raspberry imager and do not set any of the aditional options
This is just "Octopus V1.1"
That's the default option. They only added others later.
There is this option but is this for the V1.1 board?
And by others, it's only a single board with an F407 instead, that was launched during the chip shortage.
this is a Pro..
You don't have a pro, i think that's why you're having trouble
They didn't even mention the MCU when the octopus v1.1 was launched.
As there was only one
So it's been called Octopus V1.1 ever since, i can add the chip name though, i agree it's a bit confusing.
Shit just checked my order and this is the one they that I ordered.
But mine has a 446 chip in it?
How do I confirm what I have in the printer is a pro or not?
Is there some sort of query I can do on it?
Oh it has pro written on it.
So I have a Pro with a 446 ship
Yes, all Octopus V1.1 have the F446 😄
Except the one called "Octopus V1.1 F407" (which are quite rare)
OK I have installed the wrong image on it.
It'll say on the board
Yes it has Pro written on the board
If it's an octopus pro it'll say Octopus Pro on the silkscreen
then you have an octopus pro 446
So it seems I ordered the H723 1.1 pro and they have sent me the 446 1.0 Pro.
Any disadvantage?
Yes, the 446 1.0 pro activates the heater in DFU mode. This is unacceptable, they should not be shipping those boards.
Especially not when it's not what you ordered or paid for
the H723 is ~4 times faster than the 446.
Is that why my bed heater is now dead
No
It's the hotend heater
Gotcha.
regardless, it's quite bad
It's just 100% on during DFU
Yeah I will contact them
I can't believe this is even an option honestly
It's a "burn your house down" type of situation.
A couple of weeks ago a broken screw head fell out of my Rapido heater sock when I removed it with the printer on.
It fell on the Beacon board and shorted something out there and killed my SKR 1.2 Pro board.
It seem at the same time my bed died
Because even with the bed directly connected to mains it now won't heat up.
It would have had to kill the SSR
The bed is just a bunch of copper lanes
Pretty much impossible to kill without physically damaging the wiring
The SSR is also misbehaving.
As soon as I connect mains power to it I have mains power coming out of it.
That's probably why it's not heating, not entirely sure how it managed to kill the SSR though. But who knows what happened during that short
Na I have bypassed the SSR and connect the bed directly to mains and it still wont heat
Measure the resistance between the two power wires
As soon as power is connected there is only a 0.5V voltage drop across the two power wires...and this is with the DC wires disconnected
I can't quite make sense of how so much of your stuff died by shorting the beacon. There are multiple protection points from a 5V usb short.
I meant on the bed
On the SKR 1.2 Pro board that I was using?
Take the two leads from the bed and measure the resistance of the pad
There's only 1 way to make it stop working and that's by physically breaking the connection within the bed or the bed wires. It's possible that your t hermal fuse popped if your SSR failed (they usually fail ON).
The resistance between the tow bed wires with them disconnected from the printer is beyond my ohm meter to measure...it thinks it is infinite
Yeah i'm suspecting the thermal fuse popped
You can fish it out of its pocket and check for continuity between the leads.
Yep I am suspecting the failure killed the SSR and that then stayed on and caused the thermal fuse to fail.
Only thing that makes sense, fortunately those are cheap and easy to replace 😄
Oh at least that is good news.
I will have to get a replacement SSR too.
The stock thermal fuse is a 157 degree fuse
indeed
Do you know of a source or can I just get them from Kenevo?
ALLECIN 10PCS 157 Degrees Celsius Thermal Fuse 10A 250V AEC157E Tem...
ALLECIN 10PCS 157 Degrees Celsius Thermal Fuse 10A 250V AEC157E Temperature Fuses Cutoffs 10Amp 250Volt 157℃ Fusible
eew that's a lot of tracking crap, let me clean that up
there we go
Thanks heap and thanks for your help with the diagnosis of what might have happened.
Sure thing 👍
By the way I am loving what you guys have done with the Beacon and the Configurator is a huge step forward for people like me that struggle with Klipper.
Thank you so much 🙏
@Helge Keck is just as responsible for that as i am, it feels like RatOS is a 2 man project now, and i'm loving it 😅
He's killing it with the macros
My lawyer asked me to take it easy with that, and I don't go out killing so much now.
I think there might have been some confusion.
This is the link in RatOS to the 446 1.0 board. Redaing the link this seems like a good board to be using and when I double check my order on the BTT page it is the one I selected.
https://os.ratrig.com/docs/boards/btt/octopus-pro-446
Anb this is the link to the one that seems to have the issue in DFU mode.
https://os.ratrig.com/docs/boards/btt/octopus-pro-h723
BIGTREETECH Octopus Pro STM32H723 | RatOS
When this board boots into DFU mode (which happens during firmware updates), the heater pins on HE0 and HE2 will be set to high, meaning your hotend will heat up for the duration of the firmware update process.
You're right, that's my bad. It's only the v1.0 of the H723 version specifically that has the heater issue.
that H723 should be updated
will fix that right now
I am capable of confusing anyone....its a special skill I have gained
And I'm easily confused, perfect combo! 😂
Feck no
We can never meet.
the universe will implode
Are you sure? Is it not the opposite? My 446 does not do that but I’m messing with the VC3 and can check
Nevermind 😛 Just got to the end of the chat
Hahaha i do this all the time 😂
Confirmed it was definitely the thermal fuse.
SSR was fine. I was fooled when I saw 230V on both AC connections even when it was turned off. Overlooked that SSRs have a small leakage current.