V-Core 3.1 500 Extreme Cornering in Bed Mesh
Greetings all, hope you're having a nice day.
I have been following the helpful video which covers tapping points A and B to higher or lower points C and D but the results barely change from mesh to mesh. Sometimes it gets worse. I appreciate the advice, thank you kindly.
https://youtu.be/h7ZTq2dDTkM
Z > Z-Tilt > Calibrate Bed Mesh > Unscrew 4 bolts, tap extrusion points A or B and repeat.
3D Printers & a Whiteboard
YouTube
RatRig V-Core 3: How to Get a Square Frame
This video is for those who struggle getting bed meshed with their RatRig V-Core 3.
Please feel free to jump to the chapter you are interested in.
0:00 Intro
1:05 about the v-core 3 frame and bed leveling
8:26 what to take care of in the building phase
9:17 the right square
10:09 build tips
16:50 adjusting the frame according to your bed mesh
...
114 Replies
I'm struggling to get this solved. Sometimes when I tap the extrusion then go through the bed mesh again the value goes worse than previously.
You are most likely going around it the opposite way
Since its a 3.1 you would Riase A
Raise*
Or Lower B
@VisualTech48 thank you for your response. I have been raising A and lowering B but there is little to no change. A bed mesh heightmap gets slightly lower but next time increases. I haven't put the magnetic adhesive/plate on yet.
Well you are either not doing it enough or correctly. Because your X gantry seems flat so its your frame that is going up and down
You are off by a lot
So you need to "move" a lot.
So for lowering B I tap here or there? (The 4 bolts will be unscrewed of course)
And tap here for raising A?
Well do you see it moving
WHen you tap?
ANd yes rasie a (left)
do one side only
I see no movement
Will try B side now
If you see no movement you might have not removed enough screws
I loosen them enough so they are about to leave the t-nut
And if you pull upwards it doesn't move?
At the end of the 3030?
Since you can't push down the right side
YOu focus on the left
I applied weight on top and then saw some movement. So I screwed it back together
Rubber hammer didn't seem to do anything
If you extrusion doesn't move then its connected to the frame somehow
Yu want that free
Suppose I could loosen those?
nono
Only
What connects it to the frame
Ah so the 3 front ones and the usual side
But I dont get it why are you on your right side
You cannot push down right
So you have to lift left
But the right side at point D has the incline, so lowering B fixes D. Raising point A on the left will fix the dip in C. That's what I gathered in the video
Unless I'm getting mixed up
I'll raise the left side then
You gotta reverse the bed mesh in your mind
Red means close
ANd since you are handling the front
You need to to the same* of what each side says, rather than counter it.
So if your back left is going UP
To level it you need to Raise your front as well
So its level
Hmmm I think it makes sense
Thank you so far, I appreciate it really. Been stuck on this for a few days
Change in point C so we are heading somewhere now
So I need to tap point A again upwards
Yeah well do that a bit more till it gets better. But your frame might be skewed with that kind of difference.
If its getting toa point where it is too much
I'd check the frame in general
Will give it a go
Improving each time
Yeah just make sure the left and right back are the same
So there were improvements then it increased a bit
So if both are - 0.3 for instance your are flat.
Again both back need to be the same
Once you do that then you get with other issues.
Oh no
It seems you have bowing im y
But show me the whole mesh
Y is a matter of loosening the screws on the rails right?
Well how does, our corner look before we touch that
In real life I mean
A picture of point A of the printer?
Also it is a b c d not a b d c
Yes
Since the 3030 and the plates are under tension from the back it can go down when you adjust
Keep that in mind
Go further up
With a
Until the back corners meet.
Ah that's what probably happened to my result
So you want your back left and right to be as close together with their number
Whatever the number it js
Then only then do you deal with other stuff
I will report back with results
Just a bit more then increase the resolution of it to 9x9 just it fix it fully.
Values start to increase, so have to tap it back down and start gradually raising it again
You pretty muchh look at your back values
Don't look atm at the values overall, y<ou want your back 2 corners to be at the same value
Or as close to if you get me
Oh my bad
I got the rear left side to -0.228mm
The rear right side hasn't been touched and is now -0.226mm
I kept trying to tinker with it and it kept getting worse. Managed to bring the rear to an equal height but its still a bit of a dip
Also loosened and retightened the Y rails
Will also do the same to the X rails
I regret bothering with the X rail
Okey okey this is actualy great, bdcause now you need to fix your X rail
Pull it in the middle pelase
ANd I really mean pull
Not to kill it
@🌊 Jamiroquai 🌊 But pull it
Redo it
What you are suffering atm is the X rail bend
IT affects the back as well
I messed around too much and had to 'reset' everything. So pull the X gantry next to the toolhead? I saw a reply you made to someone else's thread about that. I will watch the video you recommended as well to the op. Will report back
Basicly you pull the X gantry in the middle
Thank you for taking the time to do this
So no screws need taking out, just a simple pull by grabbing the middle of the X gantry
Yes, but you are on a 500 when you heat the bed, it will be again but should be less. Its important that the cold at least is in that 0.4 cca
Ideaily you'd want 0.2, but on a 500 its good if you have 0.3 at least
Again keep in mind that heat will bend it back againa nd then when its cold it will return
Alright will see if I can get it below 0.2
It won't return as much
But it will
Bed mesh will compensate for it
But try to be below 0.3 cold is ideal.
Ah yeah thermal expansion
Will give it a go tonight and will post results. Thanks again
No worries. Again your x is quite wide, so its a common issue but bed meshes are for that. You just want it cold as low as it can get.
Again Dual rail mode is great, but with the cost of weight
While the Titanium tube has less weight but the tube itself is not fully flat, as it is hard to process.
Both are good in reality it just up to you what are the tradoffs you are okey with.
Will keep trying
Yeah maybe should have considered one of those options but they have caveats too
Trying to pull the X up but not getting any result
Getting there
YOur X is now flat
Almost
This is how you see your X
So now what you are left with is your Y rail
Its actually going down in the middle
You can always try here to tighhten the Y in the middle more
Always lok at the axis
So your X is flat and your back is flat which means your printer is pretty much flat
The rest is perhaps the motion system
Which in this case you have to check your Y rails
So now I need to tighten the Y rails more?
But only in the middle part of the rails?
I continued pulling the X and got the values under 0.200
By the looks of it yes. You need to edit your Y rail
You have Y bowing
Fix that and its done pretty much
Or if you by any chance have kapton tape
You can put kapton tape on specific areas
TO fix it as well.
Bed of 500 in the 0.2 is good but again putting a few tapes of kapton and you are done
Try the Y tighten in the middle
If it doesn't work last easy ditch is the kapton tape
I have kapton available
Tightened the middle of the Y
I don't think I can get any better than this, I assume that the kapton tape is added once the magnetic adhesive is installed
Then the build plate sits on that
Yeah, pretty much
Add now everything and let me know
If I can help furthe
I tried to adjust things further but got myself into a shit mess again. I should have waited for your response
I thought I could get the values down a bit lower on X
I've been pulling the X up a lot
I retightened the X rail as well
I should have stopped earlier
Man all is good don't worry.
Just put the magnetic sheet if you haven't Ready and the build plate
All done chap
With the magnetic sheet and build plate (no heat)
Can we up the probing to lets say 10x10, and give me the full picture please?
Lets work this out
Sure thing, on it
Bed not heated
Rear
I think this is going to be a kapton job
Yeah but gimme a FULL
Image
So the whole page
Your just giving me hte heigh tmap
For the kapton I really suggest that 10x10 or even 11x11 bed just to see where it actually "ends"
Then you can go back to 7x7 bed mesh
But have fun with kapton, as I just don't see if you tried to tighten your Y there not much to it that pops into my mind
I tightened the middle parts of my Y rails to maximum
Yeah, all good man.
THis is more than printable, but again do a bigger bed mesh that 7x7 for the kapton fix
Also on a 500 it wouldn't hurt to give a bit more bed mesh size
Like 9x9 for regular
That is just me
I will add the kapton and try a 10x10
Fiddle with it, Great work.
I couldn't have gone this far without you, so good job and thanks to you
No worries man, glad to help
10x10 with some kapton on the rear corners
10x10
0.177 is great.
Great work
Cheers mate, I appreciate it
Let me buy you a coffee chap, do you have a paypal or a buymeacoffee?
No need man.
But I do appriciate the offer.
Thanks again, I guess the next steps are the Z Offset according to the commissioning guide
Well my hopes and dreams are shattered. I just went to load the filament and the printer blew up
Okay managed to fix that problem haha
@VisualTech48 I calibrated the z-offset but when I go to print it seems to set to zero and drag against the build plate
Must put wrong initial z offset if it drags on the printbed.
Usually you set the z with the paper if you are on pinda then baby step it.
Look up Ellis 3d printing guide
Using BL Touch
Thank you, will check it out