Vcore 500 mesh extreme cornering

range is almost 1mm. not sure what is wrong or what to do about it. i got a new 500mm plate but the issue persisted. I don't know if replacing the magnetic sticker pad underneath will do anything. i'm trying sliding sheets of paper in
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24 Replies
VisualTech48
VisualTech48•6mo ago
Did you do Z tilt prior first Also, please do the mesh and do not rotate the camera and send it in again And lastly you don't need that many points 😄
EEIN
EEINOP•6mo ago
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EEIN
EEINOP•6mo ago
here it is after i tried compensating it with some sheets of paper i did do z-tilt. the extreme blue corner is back left, so there's no motor in that corner i've also heatsoaked the beacon and then calibrated it after getting my z offset where i want it, i'm getting decent results on my first layer tests so far i just don't really know how to take meaningful action towards smoothing out a bad mesh like this
VisualTech48
VisualTech48•6mo ago
Well not when you don't post a clean bed mesh. Remove all papers and such Do z, then z-tilt, then bed mesh And give me a full image With the right side as well Then we can work on fixin git Not like this.
EEIN
EEINOP•4mo ago
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EEIN
EEINOP•4mo ago
I took some time yesterday to install a new magnetic sticker pad and that smoothed out a lot of the lumps. Then I thought I might have a gantry issue so I loosened and re-tightened all everything on the X gantry left to right. Then I measured my two Y rails and found that one was about 1.5 mm higher than the other. So I loosened the front end and adjusted it until the left side was flat-ish. I think I might have some frame problems, but I'm not sure I don't really know what I can do about the blue corner in the back right though. I can't meaningfully adjust the position of the right rail to be any closer to the bed and reduce the gap. Similarly, I don't think I can raise the position of the left rail to reduce the red corner I'd like to take the time to figure out all the nuance that goes into getting a flat mesh on a large build area but it seems like there's a lot of hidden rules and nonintuitive fixes so I don't really know what questions to ask
VisualTech48
VisualTech48•4mo ago
Well usually you wouldn't touch the fron tof the printer but rather the back Your back right is high So you would pull the BACK RIGHT of the printer back But please next time take the whole screen of the mesh I can't see anything really. Don't rotatte it as well
EEIN
EEINOP•4mo ago
I'm talking about the back corners where the motors are. I can't adjust those points. But I can shift the front corner points up and down
EEIN
EEINOP•4mo ago
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EEIN
EEINOP•4mo ago
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EEIN
EEINOP•4mo ago
I'm finding some success adjusting the two front gantry points I think the blue corner of the bed might be warped from my applying pressure with a spatula to scrape off failed prints, since it's not supported there And then I think the X gantry rail is warped
EEIN
EEINOP•4mo ago
EEIN
EEINOP•4mo ago
after some careful gantry adjustment and paper stuffing in back right corner
VisualTech48
VisualTech48•4mo ago
I'm sorry I assumed you are on v core 4 My deepest apologies if you are on v core 3 you move the front corners In the opposite direction so if your back right is high yoh raise front right. Blue means high and red means close keep that in mind But fix your x first and foremost fist. Because that wave on x is what dictates your back if it will be sloped and proper. You can do this by unbolting the x and then bolting it the same torque left to right or you can straighten it by hand as well. Again I know it looks opposite but Blue means the nozzle probe had to travel further, so blue = far, red = close.
EEIN
EEINOP•4mo ago
Yes I understand this now. It did take me a minute to think about what you meant I have unbolted and retightened the x rail left to right, I mentioned that earlier I have a custom carbon fiber gantry rail I installed a few months ago. I had some catastrophic print failures where the nozzle snagged against a large, well-adhered print and destroyed the hotend & I've crashed the nozzle into the bed more than once. I'm sure the rail has suffered from that
EEIN
EEINOP•4mo ago
I also watched the video in the FAQ: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h7ZTq2dDTkM
3D Printers & a Whiteboard
YouTube
RatRig V-Core 3: How to Get a Square Frame
This video is for those who struggle getting bed meshed with their RatRig V-Core 3. Please feel free to jump to the chapter you are interested in. 0:00 Intro 1:05 about the v-core 3 frame and bed leveling 8:26 what to take care of in the building phase 9:17 the right square 10:09 build tips 16:50 adjusting the frame according to your bed mesh ...
EEIN
EEINOP•4mo ago
And it mentioned to tighten the X rail with as few nuts as possible, and only to about 1.5Nm. Mine are definitely wayyy tighter than that 😅 I'm considering buying a new CF or hollowed aluminum x gantry and a new x rail, but I don't be able to do that for a few weeks. I think the <0.250mm range I got yesterday should be good enough to work with for now
VisualTech48
VisualTech48•4mo ago
On a 500 That is quite good.
EEIN
EEINOP•4mo ago
Thanks! man I installed the aluminum gantry, same x rail. it didn't get rid of the wave, and now I'm back to ~0.600mm range
EEIN
EEINOP•4mo ago
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EEIN
EEINOP•4mo ago
~0.370 after heat soaking at 110C, chamber saturates around 70C. really consistent first layer
EEIN
EEINOP•4mo ago
most recent mesh around 0.45
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EEIN
EEINOP•4mo ago
thank you for your help
VisualTech48
VisualTech48•4mo ago
Glad it worked out Happy printing
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