Which Thermistor to Choose
Hello fellow RatRiggers. 2+ years after receiving my V-Core 3.0, starting the build but being unable to continue it. Ordering and receiving the 3.1 upgrade, rebuilding the 400, again not being able to finish the build short after receiving it, I finally finalised it last weekend.
Lucky for me RatOS 2.1 just was released (temp release but I tried it anyway).
Feedback. The auto flash and semi auto flash do not work flawlessly. I had to shut down the power to have my Octopus Pro 446 rebooted properly. Also the timeout works fine so both Octopus as my toolboard needed repeatedly a retry but eventually everything worked perfect.
Question: I ordered the 3.0 with a mosquito magnum hotend and a NTC 100K B3950 thermistor at RATRIG. In the 2.1 pulldown it shows a 100K with a different type or generic B3950 thermistor. Which is the one to choose? I chose the generic B3950 for now. Is this the right one or should I choose the 100K? If so how and where to change it.
Question 2: If I change nozzle to CHT what do I have to change (I now chose the regular nozzle)
Apologies for the (maybe too) long story but I hope someone will be able to answer the questions.
22 Replies
I had to shut down the power to have my Octopus Pro 446 rebooted properlyClicking the reset button on the board isn't enough? And which flashing method did you use?
Nope, reset button didn't do anything after putting the jumper on. I chose the one with the USB connection.
not the one with the microsd card
first question: Either works, the Generic 3950 should be the most accurate throughout the temp range, but which one is best depends on the specific NTC you've got.
second question: Go to the hardware configurator, and pick "CHT" in nozzle type, the save the config at the end of the wizard (there'll be an interface for this outside the wizard later on).
Let me make sure i understand this correctly, you had trouble booting into DFU mode, or did you have trouble getting out of DFU mode again?
I got the (according to the specs on the order from RR) NTC 100K ohm B3950
Yeah that's a bit of a ambiguous denomination but i'd pick either the EPCOS or the Generic 3950 for that. Both should work well.
At first I chose the DFU method but had not yet placed the boot jumper. I placed the jumper and tried the reset button but nothing happened and the interface kept telling me it couldn't find it. Also hitting the back button and next again with reset press didn't change that. After killing the power and restarting it, I entered the DFU again, it recognised the board and started flashing. After the flash it gave an error. But after going back and next again it walked through
The latter part was a bug that's fixed (requires updating through mainsail until RC2 is out).
The first one sounds odd. I haven't had any issues with the 3 boards that i've tested, but i'll see if i can reproduce with the octopus pro 446.
Thanks for the feedback 👍
Flashing boards just suck in general, that's why the automatic flashing (after initial flashing) is an important feature for me.
same applied for the EBB 42 1.2 toolboard. That one I could reset (boot+reset release reset and boot) since I had it already wired it was a bit of a challenge to reach the buttons but two ballpens solved that 😉 ) Here it would flash but after the flash the same error. Going back and forth worked fine.
yep that should just go through now with the newest configurator
(it may still fail, but the message you get is a little different, as there's now a button to retry the version checking which is usually enough)
Mikkl, my compliments for your fantastic work. I just switched to klipper (my CR6SE) but the RATOS layer makes it so much easier and better to understand. I'm now in the process of calibrating it . A bit scary for the calibration of the BTT microprobe. Any suggestions?
Yes throw it out and buy a beacon 😂 Jokes aside, i don't have any experience with the microprobe as i really dislike the concept (similar to bltouch), but i believe @MDFPereira has used it quite a bit, so maybe he can chime in.
And thank you so much
As soon as I arrive home I can send you my configs…
Any beacon? Or is there a significant difference between brands? I do have a proximity sensor laying around ( Finglai LJ18A3-8-Z/BX-5V) which looks awfully similar to the loose probe/beacon on the RR site. I love tinkering and trying once pointed to the right direction.
Wow, thanks! Most appreciated! Any suggestion on how to calibrate it?
So far the functioning of the BTT microprobe was unsuccessful. I have not received the configs from @MDFPereira yet. I tried a solution from @MDFPereira which was posted on Facebook (ran the configurator, installed a generic probe and included the microprobe.cfg ). No joy, I kept receiving the error "z-probe activated after retraction". Tried inverting the sensor pin setting but error stayed. So I swapped back to an old bl-touch and reconfigured the setup, that works fine. Calibrated and PID tuned bed and extruder. Then I ran the belt tensioning macro. Gave me a nice graph but I'm not sure what to look for. In the low frequencies there is noise on the graph but at the higher frequencies there is less noise shown and both belts are almost equal. How to interpretate or read the graph and translate that to my settings. How are frequencies and speed related to each other and when is a belt too tight or too loose? I hope someone can point me in the right direction.
Do you have the microprobe connected to the board or toolboard?
On the toolboard (EBB 42 1.2)
Ok. 10 minutes and will share the config
Great, thx!
see #fix-my-resonance for help with the graphs
Or is there a significant difference between brands?Didn't see this until now. There's only one beacon. The others are clones and they're missing all the magic sauce firmware that runs on the original. Also none of the others are supported and some require you to run a fork of klipper to even work. Don't go there.
Thanks, better to be safe than sorry. It's more expensive but it works. I'll go that way too eventually.
There are 2 revisions of the original Beacon, RevD and RevH, RevH has a built in accelerometer, besides that they have the same capabilities 🙂
Plus you get hands free z calibration 🙂
That's worth a lot, today I calibrated the RR . It is a lot to do.