phaetus rapido UHF/HF and LDO orbiter 1.5 extruder. clogging
[SOLVED] Hi all I have anV3 400 with phaetus rapido UHF/HF and LDO orbiter 1.5 extruder. no matter what I do Hotend clogs. If I load fialment and it extrud fine, Start a print , it homes, then z tilt, then bed level. When it start to extrude the blop sometime it is okay but then fail in the print, but most of the time the extruder just skipping at the blop. I did try a new heatbrake with no luck also did change the 40x40x10 fan to 40x40x20 fan but it is still the same problem. Any ideas there can help ?
17 Replies
upload your printer.cfg.
Are you sure you are using the orbiter 1.5 and not the orbiter 2?
Here is my config file
Okay thank you, I have uploaded my config file now. Yes I understand what I did thoose in config file is the Orbiter 1.5
The motor is a LDO-36STH20-1004AHG
Line 138 is wrong. You should be using line 139. So your extruder is running at half the run current as it should
Yes I see and have changed that now, but it still clog. Load filament no problem. But when it comes to blop and print no filament. If I heat up to 230 and extrude 10mm filament comes out again.
What filament are you using and at what temperature are you printing it?
I use PLA and have it set to 220 degrees, I have tried 3 brands all new out of the bag
That is at the upper end of what most manufacturers recommend for PLA. As the rapido is a very powerful hotend that will probably lead to heat creep unless you are printing at very high speeds. I would try 205°C for the first layer and then maybe 210°C for the rest of the print, that is what I use for 300mm/s on the Bambu X1 and that hotend has about half the wattage of the rapido, so you might even want to go slightly lower than that.
It seems better now but I'm at 195°C for first layer and 200°C for others...it has clogged 1 time since. But infill in very bad so I will try to increase flow a bit.
You don´t happen to have an enclosure on your V-Core? If you do, you might want to open the enclosure door or reduce the bed temperature for PLA, as elevated chamber temperatures can also lead to heat creep and clogging.
No enclosure... but dailing the heat down has help 🙂 . Now I try a flow test
Okay I will give up for today, it still clogs for every 2-3 print starts. I did flow test and got it very nice, did slow down infill speed but it still looks like crab, outer and inner walls are very good. First layer is also perfect. But infill is very bad.
Are you able to share a .3mf file from your slicer so I can have a look at what your various speeds, etc. are set at? Another thing you might want to look at is how stable your reported nozzle temperature is while you are printing. If you see any fluctuations it might make sense to run a PID calibration for your hotend.
Also, if you have access to an multimeter it might make sense to doublecheck the fan on the hotend is getting the corrct voltage.
Yes here is one where infill is from the photo. PID I did that also just forgot to write that also. While printing it goes up and down -0.2 and +0.2 .... I will try a multimeter on the fan tommorow.
Your speeds seem fine to me, so unless there is something wrong with the fan I would suggest that you continue trying to reduce your nozzle temperature. The infill in your photo looks like the nozzle is still a bit clogged due to heat creep. I would suggest you try going all the way down to 180°C, unless your extruder starts skipping steps or your layers stop sticking to each other there is not much you can do wrong by lowering the temperature further. You have to keep in mind that most manufacturer recommendations for print temperatures are probably still based on hotends like the E3D V6, which have much shorter meltzones and less heater power than the rapido and for the most part you are not printing that much faster than what the V6 on my V-Cast is capable of at 210°C.
Okay thanks, I will try the multimeter in the morning and the to lower temp more. I’m really happy that you are helping 👍😊.
Hi, I did messure the current to the fan but with a cheap multimeter and it messure 23.8V
If you are using a 24V fan that should be fine, so I would try lowering the nozzle temperature some more.
Yes it is a 24V
But I just noticed a fail a big fail. The hotend comes with HF and UHF.. and it is very clear what size the nozzles are. Volcano very clear say 0.4 but if I look and my other 0.4 nozzles and that it is NOT 0.4 it could be 0.6 or even 0.8. So that is a problem. I have sent this info with photos to phaetus
@Max Thnak you for your help 🙂 .... I got it working like this... First layer 220 degress others 210 degress. But I have to pull the filament out and cut it before starting a print.