the little lip on loafers? what’s that all about?

Is there a name for the lip on the top of some loafers / do some styles of loafers have them and others don’t or is it literally just case by case - I’m looking for some dressier black loafers (under £200) and like the look of the lip vs loafers where there is no lip (pictures of the difference between the thing I am referring to, the first one having no lip and then second one having a prominent lip)
33 Replies
jibba
jibba7mo ago
I think it's called a kilt
bishopcorrigan
bishopcorrigan7mo ago
You mean the style of stitching around the moc toe? Where it’s true moc toe vs the more decorative moc toe in the first picture? Here right?
khanstopme
khanstopme7mo ago
This bit yep!
bishopcorrigan
bishopcorrigan7mo ago
So most loafers made by traditional handsewn companies will have the style toe you’re looking for, I would say that’s the by far more common version But that said, I’m not sure how I would search to filter out the other kind Maybe @ll.beansandrice🫘 would have a better idea
khanstopme
khanstopme7mo ago
I was looking at solovair which gets mentioned alot on the threads and they don’t seem to have any with that style so thought maybe i was searching wrong
bishopcorrigan
bishopcorrigan7mo ago
Yeah solovair isn’t a trad handsewn company, I believe they don’t do any handsewn techniques, but if you want kiltie or tassel loafers you can make another thread for recs and specify the handsewn moc toe
jawntanamo_bae
jawntanamo_bae7mo ago
That’s called the apron. The difference in appearance comes from how it’s stitched. Loafers will have them but the degree of prominence and look is from the construction of the apron
jawntanamo_bae
jawntanamo_bae7mo ago
Link to article from shoegazing if you care to read about it: https://shoegazing.com/2023/03/26/guide-types-of-apron-front-and-split-toe-seams/
Jesper Ingevaldsson
Shoegazing.com
Guide - Types of apron front and split toe seams - Shoegazing.com
Pie crust stitching. Skin stitching. Raised lake. Reverse skin stitching. Split and lift. Round closing. And so on. The terms surrounding apron stitching
awburkey
awburkey7mo ago
Like spaghetti said it’s called an apron stitch. Classic Maine Mocassin style companies will use a handsewn stitch that is raised like that. AFAIK there isn’t a great way to search for it tho. Just something you have to pick out visually
LeisurelyLoafing
Second pair is a true moc toe where the plug and vamp are two separate pieces. Unfortunately not many companies make them like that any more and to beans point it’s not really searchable
awburkey
awburkey7mo ago
“True moc” or “true moccasin” might help but if you’re looking for that big chunky style it’s going to be a lot of hit and miss @tk you’re looking for the 2nd picture right? The more raised version?
LeisurelyLoafing
Yeah - I think bass has some chunky loafers like that
awburkey
awburkey7mo ago
It’s also a decidedly more casual detail. So depends on what other stylistic stuff you’re looking for
LeisurelyLoafing
https://www.ghbass.com/bass-wh-layton-moc-kiltie I generally don’t recommend bass but this is a slightly dressier version of the docs
Ghbassoriginals Website Store
MENS LAYTON KILTIE TASSEL WEEJUNS LOAFER
Easy-going elegance from the moment you slip it on, the Layton is made to be worn all day long. A kiltie tassel on the vamp lends this genuine leather loafer a touch of vintage sophistication, and its supreme comfort makes it a principal player in your closet.Upper Material: LeatherApron/Moc ToeSlip OnUnlinedLeather OutsoleHeel Height: 0.87 inch...
LeisurelyLoafing
I have something similar from Cole Haan and they are pretty easy to find for dirt cheap on sites like eBay
raisinpie
raisinpie7mo ago
this is insane lol
jawntanamo_bae
jawntanamo_bae7mo ago
What’s insane is that I’ve looked this up enough to have it ready to go 😭
raisinpie
raisinpie7mo ago
new fashion goal is a pair of shoes in every apron seam
jawntanamo_bae
jawntanamo_bae7mo ago
Fuck dude, don’t give me ideas
awburkey
awburkey7mo ago
I used to have a list of jm weston 180 moc alternatives but I can’t seem to find it
raisinpie
raisinpie7mo ago
"feelin a lil dangerous today so wearing the raised lake with cover pieces"
jawntanamo_bae
jawntanamo_bae7mo ago
JM Weston 180 and Golf are on my list. I dont think I would settle for an alternative Even if the Paraboot Chambord is the Poor Man’s Golf (I own Chambords, they just don’t look as good)
khanstopme
khanstopme7mo ago
yes! was looking for something more raised - mainly because I found that the non-raised style/ without the apron makes the loafer look more rounded and I’m looking for something that looks boxy, so even if it doesn’t have a prominent apron - a boxier style of dressy loafer is what I’m searching for
awburkey
awburkey7mo ago
Any more specific examples or outfits you’d like to wear them in? “Dressy” can just mean so many different things. I think leisurelyloafing’s rec is good The 180s have been on my list forever too
khanstopme
khanstopme7mo ago
honestly this is the type of answer i could never get anywhere else on the internet 🫡
jawntanamo_bae
jawntanamo_bae7mo ago
Very beautiful shoe. Very crazy pricing Hope it helped!
khanstopme
khanstopme7mo ago
personally wanna wear them in smart casual environments - i want to wear it to a fancy dinner with some suit trousers / pleated trousers & a turtleneck for example, i currently do not own any shoes other than causal running shoes (my daily drivers) & a pair of oxfords (to wear with a suit) so looking to bridge the gap it did!!
awburkey
awburkey7mo ago
Being in the eu I think makes this a bit tougher. Search on this server for other budget recs in the EU and browse their offerings. I know US options like J Crew, GH bass, etc but I’m unsure how available they are or what the pricing is. Morjas and skolyx are options but idk if they have the true moc stitch on any of their offerings
khanstopme
khanstopme7mo ago
Will do my best! GH bass has an EU site with a smaller selection which I will look into
gimp
gimp7mo ago
Great answer upsetti spaghetti, thanks mate
khanstopme
khanstopme7mo ago
another question for the lovely loafer nerds: what does unlined mean in this context?
awburkey
awburkey7mo ago
Typically leather shoes will have a leather that faces the outside and then they will have a different leather that’s softer lining the inside and any internal structure for the uppers goes in between those layers. Things like a toe puff and heel cup. Loafers are often unlined to be more casual, summery, and comfortable. I have pairs that are lined and others that are not. Just different vibes