![Rat Rig Community [Unofficial]](https://cdn.discordapp.com/icons/582187371529764864/08375bea6b5b9088b6d4cfc2b6e25fba.webp?size=48){kind=icon}
rapido not heating
Hi can anyone help I've had to change my hotend due to issues had a mosquito. Bought a rapido UHF PT1000 Ive installed the hotend in the same ports as the mosquito but can get it to heat at all
Bcan you show a picture of the wiring? And does klipper shut down after a while because it isn't heating?
RSo wiring is the same as the ratrig documents heater wires to heater0 thermostat to thermostat port. Yeah after a few seconds of no temp change klippers shuts down
R@blacksmithforlife 
I've wired it in the same as the working mosquito it's replacing and updated the cfg. Not sure how often it happens but it may be a doa heater core
I've wired it in the same as the working mosquito it's replacing and updated the cfg. Not sure how often it happens but it may be a doa heater coreBsounds like it to me, but I have never had a rapido so I defer to others
RI've checked the wiring up to where the heater connects and when I try heat up the hotend it is getting 24v so must be a real in the heater core or rapido ceramic part
EDisconnect it and measure the resistance
Pwhat about changing the PT1000 board settings. Board might not be seeing a fast enough temp change thus shuts down.
PT1000 is not as sensitive at ambient as the orig sensors
PT1000 is not as sensitive at ambient as the orig sensors
EThe rapido heats very quickly initially because it's a PTC heater
EChecking the resistance is the a simple objective test and you can repeat it all the way up to the solder points on the core to pinpoint the issue
RWeird I've ran my meter through it today and get continuity and resistance through both wires. I tested between the connector and the solder joint on the ceramic. Would that indicate that the heater is good and the thermometer is the problem ?
EMeasure the resistance
RResistance was .1 on each wire
EMeasure the heater, not the wires
RSo measure across the two solder joints? Trying to figure out which points to measure across
EYes, or the wires, you just confirmed that they are connected
Ai just had the same problem with an Rapido UHF Plus. Unlimited Resitance between the two Heater solder-pads.
And it was a brand new one. It was exchanged without troubles, but it is ofc annoying af that thingsl ike this even leave the factory
And it was a brand new one. It was exchanged without troubles, but it is ofc annoying af that thingsl ike this even leave the factory
AIt's the two points on the outer side of the ceramic element you have to measure, just set the Multimeter to resistance measurment and put the probes to these two pads - it does not matter which goes where
A
RYeah just got finished with Xmas dinner and tested it got the same completely DOA the place I bought it from have been good and are sending a new heater but won't be with me for while now. I hope once it's properly up and running it goes smoother than my mosquito had all sorts of stupid little problems with that. The cooling and heat creep on it where terrible
AIt's my first one, and i really just started with it, but so far i'm loving it. Good luck and god speed man 
VHello,
Having a no heating issues. Not sure why.
Follow this information and got this.
Problem on the reading, is that i don't know what it means.
Can someone help me decoding it?
Having a no heating issues. Not sure why.
Follow this information and got this.
Problem on the reading, is that i don't know what it means.
Can someone help me decoding it?
Ai can't exactly see the display, does it say k before the Ohm sign at the top of the display? that would be an order of magnitude to high unfortunately and mean there is a problem with the heater. Although that would be unusual with such values -
Unless it is still connected with the wires somewhere, then this reading is useless. you have to disconnect the wires of the heater and then measure
Unless it is still connected with the wires somewhere, then this reading is useless. you have to disconnect the wires of the heater and then measure
VYes, a K before the Ohm.
But yes, was connected (although printer is offline on energy)
Here's a new picture, now with the plug (on the head/carriage) disconnected.
Open Loop, means not connected, should it means good or bad heat block?
But yes, was connected (although printer is offline on energy)
Here's a new picture, now with the plug (on the head/carriage) disconnected.
Open Loop, means not connected, should it means good or bad heat block?
AO.L means Out of Limit, so basically infinite Resistance, which means your Heater is broken, sorry man.
VThank you for that bad information. 
Do you recommend any other test, just to be sure i didn't mess up on measure/test this?
I'm just praying i'm reading it wrong, and it's just a dam hidden fuse or some small stupid disconnection....
Do you recommend any other test, just to be sure i didn't mess up on measure/test this?
I'm just praying i'm reading it wrong, and it's just a dam hidden fuse or some small stupid disconnection....
ATo make sure you don't have a probe contact issue, put the probes directly to the wire ends.
VHad try that also. Still dead (AKA O.L)...
Thank you for your help.
Thank you for your help.