wavy corners

this print (after rebuilding my VCore 3.1 300) has some issues. My question is about the wavy corners. Input Shaper is tuned. I have this with all filaments, no matter fan or temp settings - so probably no pressure advance problem. This is the 3Do Ratrig green ASA filament with the ootb SuperSlicer settings. What can I look out for?
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34 Replies
other-emerald
other-emerald2y ago
does this happen with all prints? If you print a tall hollow cylinder what does it look like. (Looks like bad ZWobble to me)
eastern-cyan
eastern-cyan2y ago
all prints. I'll make a cylinder to test. is 1cm radius fine for this?
other-emerald
other-emerald2y ago
Z Wobble Test Piece by tuxcat
Test piece to check the Z wobble banding from your printer. Added a square version.
other-emerald
other-emerald2y ago
that will confirm, but it likely is zwobble, you'll want to check your lead screws, bed arms, oldham couplers and z couplers for binding and/or crazy misalignment. For the z couplers make sure you first secure to the stepper, then secure, with the bed installed, the lead screws - you want it pretty tight (but don't hulk so much to destroy the screw) and make sure they are all the way in
eastern-cyan
eastern-cyan2y ago
clearly wobble... (ignore the seam, I tried a too high PA setting for this one). lead screws seem fine when I roll them on a flat surface. they seem to move as needed within the oldham couplers. But I removed the first arm now to be sure and the oldham coupler feels a little bit "scratchy". hm
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eastern-cyan
eastern-cyan2y ago
could it make sense to grease the lead screws a bit?
other-emerald
other-emerald2y ago
I’d check for anything mechanical, like binding or a “bent” lead screw Just checking, where are the seams on this print?
eastern-cyan
eastern-cyan2y ago
these are the seams that are also shown in superslicer. A bit much compared to earlier. But I believe these things have nothing to do with each other, as the wobble is there for a while and I haven't tuned for this filament yet. I'll check the rails for perfect seating next. maybe when assembling I made a mistake here. the lead screws don't look bent. I rolled each of the three on a flat surface. one was super smooth, the other two looked smooth as well, only wobbled back a tin bit when they stopped
psyvision
psyvision2y ago
Have you actually lubricated them?
eastern-cyan
eastern-cyan2y ago
yes. it got a little bit better, but I don't see an issue with the lead screws. I'm quite sure they're fine. I rebuilt my vcore in order to make sure there are no geometric issues after I had changed from the non-enclosed to the enclosed variant. Maybe the rails aren't perfectly aligned, but I still have to figure out a good way to verify the geometrical accuracy. I realigned the rear z-axis and it seems a bit better. I'll do the front rails tomorrow. I already see a slight improvement, will now print the voron cube again to get a better comparison
miklschmidt
miklschmidt2y ago
huge overextrusion + bad PA tuning, is what it looks like to me. (it's close to impossible to provoke z-wobble this bad on a V-Core 3, no matter what you do). Are you using a huge nozzle here?
eastern-cyan
eastern-cyan2y ago
I am using this one: Phaetus PH Volcano hardened steel nozzle (DLC coating) - Diameter: 0.6mm will do some proper PA tuning tomorrow as well. hope that helps. my extrusion is at 0.93 for 3DO Ratrig green ASA but I had this issue already before, with a Microswiss plated brass 0.6 can't remember if the issue was there already when I was using the Pheatus UHF 0.6 which I replaced with a CHC Pro. This one by the way - despite of several PID tunings - overshoots when heating up by 6 - 10 °C, and while printing is between 244 and 246°C when 245 is set.
blacksmithforlife
Are you using a pt1000 by any chance? I found my pt1000 would vary a lot until I plugged it into the standard thermistor port instead of the dedicated MAX chip port
miklschmidt
miklschmidt2y ago
Which extruder?
eastern-cyan
eastern-cyan2y ago
I am using the ATC Semitec 104GT-2/104NT-4-R025H42G that's part of the CHC pro. Which reminds me to check wether I have set it. the extruder is an Orbiter 2.0
miklschmidt
miklschmidt2y ago
Board? Toolboard? v2.X?
eastern-cyan
eastern-cyan2y ago
@miklschmidt your assumption about over extrusion was right by the way. I lowered it to 0.90 now and the layers look much better Board is an Octopus 1.1, and an EBB36
miklschmidt
miklschmidt2y ago
Yeah i think i run 0.91 for 3do ASA myself. Aight then what i had in mind is not the issue at least (the reason i asked) 🙂 there's a bug in 2.x using the skr mini e3 and a toolboard, that was fixed late yesterday
eastern-cyan
eastern-cyan2y ago
I might even go to 0.88 I think. will try with the next print. but it's 1 AM here, so probably will go to bed first 😉 I have updated RatOS and all other components feww hours ago there have been 3 or so commits for RatOS
miklschmidt
miklschmidt2y ago
Required manual changes to the template (needed a different quirks file, grrrr.. stupid skr mini). But it's a different thing, you should be fine.
eastern-cyan
eastern-cyan2y ago
can I assume the same extrusion factor for different colours of 3do filament or better not?
miklschmidt
miklschmidt2y ago
Seems to work well for the black ASA as well at least, but that's as much as i know
eastern-cyan
eastern-cyan2y ago
alright, I will find out thanks for your help!
miklschmidt
miklschmidt2y ago
Np!
elco
elco2y ago
Nozzle diameter and line width correct? Also in klipper? Also check your 4 bed screws And tighten them when hot The Asa bed temp can make them loose and wobbly
eastern-cyan
eastern-cyan2y ago
diameter is set to 0.6, which is my nozzle. Here are the extrusion settings:
eastern-cyan
eastern-cyan2y ago
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eastern-cyan
eastern-cyan2y ago
4? yes
elco
elco2y ago
sorry, 3 the ones that rest on the arms
eastern-cyan
eastern-cyan2y ago
lol, you had me confused. I was counting again and again and only came to three pog you think the extrusion settings are fine?
elco
elco2y ago
I prefer a bit wider lines but this shouldn't cause the issue
eastern-cyan
eastern-cyan2y ago
I still have to figure out how to verify the frame and especially gantry geometry precisely, that's my next step roughly it looks good what are your settings?
elco
elco2y ago
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miklschmidt
miklschmidt2y ago
3D Printers & a Whiteboard
YouTube
RatRig V-Core 3: How to Get a Square Frame
This video is for those who struggle getting bed meshed with their RatRig V-Core 3. Please feel free to jump to the chapter you are interested in. 0:00 Intro 1:05 about the v-core 3 frame and bed leveling 8:26 what to take care of in the building phase 9:17 the right square 10:09 build tips 16:50 adjusting the frame according to your bed mesh ...