How to buy/wear a suit when carrying a little extra weight around the middle?
Approaching 50 and with an appetite for good living, I can't deny that I am a little more rotund than is ideal. Not obese (clinically speaking) and within (although at the top end) of healthy BMI range, but a bit tubby (175cm and weighing 84kg, apologies for the mix of metric and imperial, I'm British).
Is it simply the case that I shouldn't expect to be able to buy an off-the-peg suit that flatters my body shape? I've tried varying sizes, between Medium and Large, or 38"/40"/42" chest (depending on how the suit is labelled) and always find that the jacket appears tight across my chest/stomach. Is there any way to avoid this without going bespoke/ made-to-measure?
I've seen advice in the past that it just comes down to different cuts used by different labels/suit makers. And that it's about finding one that's right for your body shape. But I've tried a lot, and always seem to run into this issue! I wouldn't say I can't find suits that fit me at all, but I don't seem to be able to find ones that fit me just right!
I have attached an image of me wearing a few different buttoned-up suit jackets/ blazers to illustrate what I am talking about! To me, the bulge around my midriff, and lack of a defined, flattering "V" shape, is apparent in all of these. And whenever I've posted online asking for fit checks, the advice I've received is invariably that the jackets look tight on my midriff, chest or just tight in general. If I was to go any larger, they would be too wide on my shoulders!
Any advice? Or anything you can tell from the photos that suggests where I am going wrong? Or am I just being horribly over-sensitive and in fact these jackets mostly fit me ok (if not exactly perfectly?)
14 Replies
Yes it is possible for you to buy suits that don’t have this issue! The buttoning point is too high for all of the jackets.
Generally you want it to be around the widest part of your midsection and all of these are too high by at least an inch.
The space from the top of your waistband to the jacket button is the largest indicator here.
i'll be the heathen that says the "jackets seams lining up perfectly on your shoulder bone" rule isn't always dogmatic. as someone who has very little drop from chest to waist and very long arms but otherwise "standard" sizing and not a lot of money for MTM, i usually have to choose between a jacket that's slightly big in the shoulder/body or slightly short on the sleeves and usually accept the former because with the fit in totality the wider shoulder isn't as impactful
Random drawings on one of the fits but moving the button down to the red spot will make the lapels longer and expose more of the shirt underneath creating more of that vertical/V eye shape
The tux(?) in the first pick is better but the jacket is too short so it has other issues
I’m not convinced this is a sizing issue but is more just the high button point
I really don’t think you look “tubby” at all tbh, my friend. I also feel obligated to mention that BMI as a measure of health is complete and utter bullshit. Based on your weight and height you’re actually below the average male weight for someone your age.
OTR suits are cut to a basic standard, but there’s so much deviation within that framework that anyone who falls outside of the ideal is going to have issues wearing off the rack.
I’m 6’ 3”, around 170 lbs, and I’m technically a 40L in most suiting. I’m a little bit larger than most catalogue models would be, if we’re going off of height and weight specifically, but I don’t think I’ve EVER bought a suit and been able to wear it without getting it tailored because there are specific dimensions that aren’t factored into the sizing of those suits. Ive got a narrow waist and stomach but a broad chest, so more often than not I end up buying a 42L and getting the stomach brought in and sleeves slightly shortened.
Idk how it is out in ye olde Britain, but most dry cleaners out in the US doing minor tailoring. You don’t have to spend a fortune to get a well tailored suit, just gotta be okay with shelling out a few extra bucks to get something you really love
While this is true button stance isn’t easily altered ime and can look really wonky if you’re not careful
Agreed on that
I was more saying I think this issue could be avoided by OP buying longer lengths (or shopping elsewhere)
Agree with the above, though never would have picked up on the button issue myself.
I will add that I don't think #2 is a bad fit by any means. The midsection is the tightest point for sure, but we will all have that somewhere
Which is 2, the blue sports coat (the only non-suit fit)?
2nd image in the series. With white/stone (can't tell with the lighting) pants
i'm almost certain the tightness in the midsection in 2 is largely because of how high the button stance is
also since i don't think it came up i would avoid tailoring that relies on alpha sizing (s, m, l, etc.). i tried that when i first started and found there was a lot more variance in fit, especially when comparing between brands or even within the same brand
I think that's good advice in general whenever possible. s/m/l works kinda-okay for things like T-shirts (and even that leaves much to be desired). Flat out doesn't work for anything with structured elements.
This must be a very common problem though, given that all of the jackets in the pictures are from different labels? Is it a fashion thing?
It's hard to say. Everyone has different proportions, it might just be those brands or something else entirely.