Rapido 2 UHF Clogging. Updated heatbreak and thermistor
There is an annoying occasional clogging with the older style Rapido 2 UHF. Rapido 2 now has an updated heatbreak and thermistor that is supposed to remedy this issue. Has anyone got this warrantied through RatRig or Phaetus? I am checking before I order the updated version from west3d. I haven't contracted RatRig yet as it seems their website is down. Everything else with the vcore4 is running perfectly. Thanks
18 Replies
Following because I have the same (screw in thermistor), but gave up and got a rapido ace from triangle labs. Post what you find, as I'd like to get it replaced if possible, just to have a good one.
Mine was more false temp readings than clogs, but still
I will. I have been having to print PETG at unusual but not uncommon temperatures. 250-260c +. The clogs don't usually happen mid print, only after a few load/unloads. I was removing the rapido 2 at first to unclog but now I am shoving a metal rod that come with a different printer through the top. I dont expect this to keep working for long since its not completley cleaning the heatbreak.
I posted a ptfe cutting jig in mods, use that, then chamfer the input side. Adjust the screw that touches the ptfe on the underside of the orbiter until it's almost flush and rocks just a tiny bit, then tighten it down.
After a cold pull ofc
Maybe that'll help until you can get a replacement
The PTFE tube was the first thing I suspected so I replaced it with capricorn tubing. I adjusted it with a bit of preload and without a bit of preload on the heatbreak and neither helped. Thats before I figured out that the clogs are happening at the heatbreak itself below the ptfe from heatcreep. It is deforming the filament too far up the heatbreak and when doing unloads it leaves cooled deformed filament behind, causing the clog. Supposedly the updated heatbreak has titanium there instead of stainless for better insulation. The thermistor is the same PT1000, the new one being slide in vs screw in making it much easier to replace. Take this with a grain of salt as i could be completely wrong.
Capricorn tube is a bit too narrow, I'm going to use 2.5mm ID tube with my ace
You're right about it being a bit too narrow. Both the capricorn and the included tubing leave a bit of a lip, so ill be putting a chamfer on it next time i disassemble it like you suggested. That should make the loading a bit smoother.
I bought 2,5 tube from bambu, makes for a nice filament path too. Figured it was the better choice than rando all caps amazon name
I looked at the triangle labs rapido ace, it looks like a better hotend all around. If i dont get the updated parts warrantied through ratrig or phaetus ill probably end up going with that.
Just FYI I ended up going with the triangle labs dragon ace for now. It seems to be the best of all worlds. Gonna experiment with it, the included spacer and their melt zone extender to get the correct height. It is on sale right now for around 60usd. Shipping time is pretty long but I think I can limp this rapido 2 for now.
I just got the screws in for mounting the rap-ace, it didn't include the longer m2.5 for use with the spacer. Plan on sourcing some. I got stainless Torx from McMaster
Hey, update on the new dragon ace. i got it all together now. Works perfectly with the spacer and their meltzone extender. Had to get some new screws for the mount with the spacer like you mentioned. (M2.5x10mm 90deg tapered for anyone else reading.). Only problem with the hotend i got is that the temp probe and heater are on oposite sides, so i had to route the temp probe wire around the front. I will be working on modifying the toolhead stl to print a version with a slot on the right side to pass the wire through. I will also make the center bore slightly bigger since this hotend is a bit beefier. Performance is similar to original, time will tell if the clogs are fixed. Did a quick max vol flow test with esun HS PLA at 220deg, fans at 75% and got a perfect test up to 40 mm cu/s. with the included nozzle (0.4mm and looks like plated brass with hardened steel insert).. the ceramic heater is slightly physically larger on this one also, should work great for high temp filaments.
Hey, I had the same issues and I did contact RR and the shipped out a replacement that fixed the problem.
Thanks for the reply. Did they send out the same exact hotend or did they send the one with the upgraded one? This is the upgrade for the standard Rapido 2 UHF https://west3d.com/products/phaetus-rapido-2-heat-block-replacement-for-rapido-2-hot-ends?_pos=7&_sid=4a92c6ec8&_ss=r
West3D 3D Printing Supplies
Phaetus Rapido 2 Heat Block Replacement for Rapido 2 Hot Ends
This is the updated block as of October 2024! This is specifically designed for the new variant of Rapido 2 with the updated block. It uses a push through thermistor vs the old screw style. You broke it, it clogged, or vanished - either way we are here to help you fix it. This is a replacement heat block for the Rapido
It was the newer model with the thermistor close to the nozzle, not the screw in type.
They said in our email exchange that the thermistor was reporting the incorrect temperature, it was off by 20°c if I remember correctly. While I waited for the replacement I did push my temperatures up considerably and it printed just fine. The replacement was a complete boxed hotend
Thanks for the reply, that makes sense. I will contact them.
Good luck!
Hello, I am trying to figure out if I have the same faulty hotend issue, or something else maybe config related. What does the "old" version look like?
I see mention of threaded thermistor. Mine came pre-installed, so I am unsure if mine is threaded but it doesn't appear to be.
My concern stems from temperatures seeming to be inaccurate. I set nozzle temp to 265C and put a thermal imaging cam on the nozzle.
My actual temp is lower than requested temp, stabilizing at 250C:
Part of the issue from the stock rapido 2 uhf seems to be a faulty pt1000. The stock thermistor looks like a small brass screw at the end of the thermistor wire and it screws in to the side of the heatblock. To see it you'll have to take the silicone off. Look at the phaetus website and take a look at the rapido 2 vs the rapido 2 plus (upgraded one) and you'll see the difference. The other part of the problem is that on the stock rapido 2, there seems to be some heatcreep past the heat block, causing the plastic to melt where it shouldn't melt, and then solidifying when it's cooled back down, causing intermittent clogs. The upgraded one seems to have a better heartbreak that is supposed to stop this issue.
Regarding the infrared image, I have only taken an IR pic of the nozzle itself with silicone sock still on the rest of the hot end so I can't compare. The nozzle always seems to be a bit below the actual temperature setpoint just from ambient cooling. The only way to really know is to do some temperature tests prints 10-15c higher than normal and see if that prints better.