Identifying an unstructured jacket?
Can you tell by looking if these jackets are necessarily unstructured, or just a bit loose/oversized? Trying to find the technical description for this relaxed vibe that I’m interested in
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They’re both unstructured, the second one has roped shoulders, ime it’s rare to see a corduroy jacket with structure anyways
bishop is right; i'll add also unstructured and oversized are two separate dimensions when looking at jackets
Im not sure on the second one, i think it has at least some degree of canvassing - but a relatively soft one
Thank you! If a jacket has lining, does that mean it's structured? I.e., would an unstructured corduroy sport coat just look and feel like a corduroy chore coat, just cut like a blazer?
Its less about the lining and more about the stuff that might or might not be inbetween the lining and the outer fabric
To answer your question: Yes, an unstructured suit jacket will feel more or less like a chore coat
Also there is a continuum of how structured a jacket is, with the one on the left being completely unstructured and the one on the right having only pretty minimal structure.
IMO you can tell the second actually has some kind of canvassing by the way that the lapel rolls. Thats a bit to neat for corduroy sans structural support
Interesting. To some extent, it seems like you just have to develop an eye for it. I just picked this vintage jacket up cheaply, but I'm not sure it's having the desired effect. I think it's just too structured for what I'm looking for. Looking back at the pictures, you can almost tell by how straight the arms are hanging
the arms usually have no structuring to it
thats just a matter of fabric thickness/softness/being worn in
Lol okay gotcha. This jacket has shoulder pads, is that an indication of being more highly structured? I'm wondering if it's worth removing them or if it's a lost cause trying to get this jacket to have the slouchy vibe
but it looks like the shoulder has more padding than the other two jackets
You have a good eye for these things!
I have no experience with removing shoulder pads because I personally like a structured shoulder, but perhaps someone else might know about that
i just have a few corduroy jackets and after a while you notice the difference between structured and unstructured
it depends on the jacket and the pad, it's not hard to do but sometimes removing the shoulder pad will form a pocket or divot in the sleeve that runs counter to the slouchy vibe you want
That fabric is also quite a fine waled corduroy which is inherently less casual looking and probably why it’s structured
Simon’s is canvased but the shoulders aren’t padded
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