Printer won't boot
A broken hot end heat sink screw fell on to my beacon board when I removed the sock from hot end.
It must have made contact with a couple of pins and the printer immediately shut down and now won't reboot.
I get this message when I trie to connect to it.
25 Replies
Not sure of next step in trouble shooting?
I guess one thing that migght have happened is something got corrupted when it shut down unexpectedly.
...I am hoping that is the case.
I am guessing the best thing to do is to try a fresh install of Rat)S?
pretty green at this stuff, but I know something of microcontrollers, probably need a new controller, but u can try to put it in DFU mode and reflash
Here is my Klippy log
I have tried to do a fresh install of Kliper but I can't see the Pi WiFi host. Flashed RatOS 2.1 RC2 on to an SD drive with Balena Etcher. Installed it in the Pi and turned on the printer. But after a few minutes I can not see the RatOS WiFi host.
Tried this with the USB cable to the MCU and the Beacon both unplugged.
I am wondering if it could have damaged the Pi board which the Beacon plugs directly into via a USB cable?
the Pi usually has a few leds for power and diagnostics. on mine one of them flashes green on "disk activity" i.e' read/write to SD card, could give an indication of dead or alive.
try sending ls /dev/serial/by-id/* via ssh and check if all mcus are detected
I tried a fresh install of RatOS. Flashed the image to SD card using balema and installed it in the Pi. Rebooted the Pi 4B. Red light came on and green light next to it flashed a few times but I don't see any Wifi host advertised. (Also tried this with the USB cable to the MCU and the one to Beacon unattached but it made no difference).
Try Rufus instead of balema etcher. Heard it had som problems recently
When a Raspberry Pi boots (models 1 through 4), one or more LEDs will activate. One is red, indicating power (PWR); the other is green and indicates activity (ACT). (There is also a trio of green Raspberry Pi LED lights indicating the Ethernet status, if connected.)
So, what do these LEDs indicate? Well, there's the normal status, when both PWR and ACT LEDs are activated. ACT flashes during SD card activity. Therefore, if there's no green light on your Raspberry Pi, there's a problem with the SD card.
Meanwhile, PWR blinks when power drops below 4.65V. As such, if the Raspberry Pi's red light doesn't light up, there's no power.
If only the red PWR LED is active, and there is no flashing, the Pi is receiving power, but there is no readable boot instruction on the SD card (if present
oh man, I need to write that down!
@Sjakk With nothing other than the power connected to the Pi 4B
1. When I turn it on the power the red LED turns on.
2. The Green light also comes on and then jhust contiues to flash itermittently
3. After a while the red light goes off and then comes back on again.
4. Then green light continues flashing intermittently.
The RatOS host never shows up on my wireless network
Even though I can't connect via wireless I can SSH into it via an Ethernet cable.
For some reason, all of your devices are not being detected by the system.
Try disconnecting all of the usbs, reboot the rpi, reconnect one at a time and check the link.
But this looks like something went wrong during the sdcard flashing and/or first boot
And make sure all of them have either power or the usb connection jumper.
Thanks I will start with upgradeing the power supply wiring as I have had voltage low warnings in the past.
Upgrading the power supply wiring has fixed the low voltage warnings and I can get Rat)S image booting on the Pi and it now hosts the RatOS Wifi host. The USB ports on my Pi seem fine. They can charge my phone and if I plug a USB bub in lsusb lists the hub.
UNfortunately while my SKR 1.2 Pro board powers up and the LEDs some up including the one next to the USB port. Unfortunately the RatOS configurator can't seem to see the SKR board. My lap top also can't see the USB port on the SKR board if I ;ug it into it.
So everything seems to confirm that I need a new MCU.
sounds like it, maybe a zero ohm resistor close to the port is fried, or maybe the magic smoke left the mcu chip, less hassle to just replace controllerboard
Exactly. I had a quick look to see if anything was visually fried....and then just ordered the replacement
And I needed a new board anyway with more drivers for the hybrid upgrade.