Flow? Temp? Speed?
Not sure where to start.
I have a newly built v core enclosed 400 with the v2 toolhead rapido .6 uhf nozzle and orbiter v2.
Looking for help figuring out why my test prints are coming out so bad, im not aure if its a flow, temp or speed issue.
Im printing abs
I have been trying to set up orca with the ratrig but use cura for my ender 6 which ive used for years
The first layer goes down perfectly, running 240-250c on the nozzle (tested multiple prints) and 150mm/s
When it starts on the next layer no matter same speed or faster(200,250 tested different prints) it seems like its struggling to flow. Ive tried different fan speeds to cool it a little and none seem to help (different %s)
I can upload the printer.cfg file later
Here are some pictures, i find it odd that one side is sorta nice and the opposite is completely garbage.
Any advice im more then happy to try and post the results!
Last pic is stopped half way through the second layer.
My goal is to be printing abs at 200mm/s or 250 but i also need to keep quality, not sure if thats doable or not but figured reaching out might help hopefully!!
14 Replies
Try using a calliper to measure the thickness of the first layer on that last part. My guess is that your flow rate might be too high, which is then being compensated for by the z offset on the first layer. In that case the first layer would be thicker than the first layer height you set in your slicer.
Just measured the first layer on the last pic and youre right it measures .4 not the .3 it’s supposed to be in the slicer. In that case i would need to drop the flow rate so its not pushing as much through the nozzle?
Yes, you would need to drop the flow rate and probably drop the z offset, so your nozzle is a bit closer to the bed. But in general for a new printer I would suggest you start out by following a calibration guide like: https://ellis3dp.com/Print-Tuning-Guide/ or https://teachingtechyt.github.io/calibration.html .
Yup that makes sense, thank you and ill give that a look over and try, i had done a bunch of the calibration in orca to get my initial values but it would make sense if im compensating the z first layer as to why the rest isnt right… getting the first layer right is only important if its correct not just looks right lol. Ill try those out tonight and post how i get along.
Yes exactly, for example for the first layer it is affected by the distance between the nozzle and the bed as well as the flow rate. So tuning the distance without having the correct flow rate won´t be very effective. The advantage with these guides is that they are setup in such a way, that the setting you are currently tuning is only dependent on settings you have already tuned.
Alright so went through the basic section not the advanced one, walls came out great on another test, i think i might need to adjust something with the infil line width or something, im not sure. Walls and solid layers went down well, and the infil started good and as it would overlap could hear it banging or ticking as it crossed over itself. And the top layer turned out crappy for the main section. What settings should i be looking for in orca?
Also line on the side is the same layer that step is on the inside.
The sound is probably your extruder motor skipping steps. This can happen when you are trying to extrude filament faster than it is melting, when you are trying to extrude filament without there being anywhere for it to go, or if you have a clogged nozzle. In your case, the infill is probably the part of the print that is being printed with the highest speeds and therefore volumetric flow rate,so that makes me think it is probably the first one. Unless you have your speed set to something ludicrous you are probably not exceeding the maximum volumetric flow of the rapido so I would try increasing the nozzle temperature by about 10°C to see if that fixes the noise. You will find that with the higher speeds of the V-Core compared to your ender you probably need to set the nozzle temperature quite a bit higher than what you were used to.
The pattern on the top layer of the main section looks like pillowing which is basically caused by the top layer drooping into the gaps between the infill. Depending on how many top layers you have set I would try to increase those (5 should be enough). Alternatively you can try increasing "Fan speed for overhangs" in the cooling section of the filament settings, that will increase the fan speed for the layer above the infill. If that dosn´t fix it you might want too look at the overhang speed section and the top surface speed.
I believe the banging is the nozzle hitting lines previously printed on the same layer. And base layer is 150 rest is 200mm/s and a .3 inital and rest layer height so definitely not pushing max flow rate. And walls and small surface on top was good so i don’t believe it would be a clog. Clarifying 200 for everything else in the print. And the top layer is coming up not dropping down must be the pic angle. So ill try higher temp. I have no basis for the temp vs speed increases. 🙂 i had three top layers but also think you’re right about the fan cooling as well, would you have an idea what layer # ish to start on to prevent warping and what % ranges because ik 100% os way too much for abs lol
In that case the scraping is probably the grid infill crossing over itself. Normally that should not be a problem, as the nozzle should just melt through the preexisting lines but when your nozzle temperature is too low that does not happen and you get that banging noise when the nozzle crosses those lines. So a higher nozzle temperature should hopefully fix that problem aswell.
Unfortunately I don´t do much ABS printing so I am not too sure what fan speed you can get away with. But if the top layer is coming up that might mean you are still slightly overextruding, so you might want to try giving the extrusion multiplier tuning another try. That could also explain the horizontal line on your print as orca slicer creates an internal bridge (blue) before it prints the top layer in the middle. That internal bridge creates a solid layer right up against the outer wall of the print so if your extrusion multiplier is too high here the excess matieral will push against the outer wall of the print and create that line.
You can check if your hotend can extrude properly by looking at the flowrate needed in the slicer and then manually extruding into the air at the same flowrate using the mainsail webinterface. If everything is working right, it should give a nice and even stream of plastic.
Another thing you could check is if you have the correct run current setting on the extruder motor in the config files, if it's too low, the motor doesn't have enough torque to push the filament hard enough for higher flow rates.
going to 255c got the top surface looking awesome, little over extrusion on the short distances in the start and stop corner of the middle face. but there's still that line on the sides where that middle layer is so ill give the extrusion multiplier again and see how that does.
Great to hear, if the extrusion multiplier dosn´t fix it you can also try some of the other solutions listed here aswell: https://ellis3dp.com/Print-Tuning-Guide/articles/troubleshooting/bulging.html#bulging-around-features
So your setup is very similar to mine. I have a brand new enclosed vcore 400 with the beta2 toolhead upgrade and using Orca Slicer. I was having similar issues to you and tried going to a 0.6 nozzle and then I felt like I was trying to solve too many things at once. I was also following Elli's tunning guide and the vcore commissioning guide. What I ended up realizing and went down a deep rabbit hole on was the extruder pretension. If you have the toolhead upgrade then you are definitely running the orbiter v2, which has that thumbscrew to tighten/loosen the tension on the filament. What I found was if it was too tight or too lose, everything else was screwed. I asked around and someone told me to loosen it till it wouldn't feed, then start tightening it till it did, and then turn it another quarter turn. That didn't actually work for me.
What I do now, following Elli's guide I print out the first layer patches. But I'm not looking for first layer squish first. I know I'm close to being right because I use a sheet of paper to get it pretty close. Instead the first few times I do the first layer patches, I'm pausing the print between patches and adjusting the tension on the extruder 1/8 turn at a time until the first layer looks good, then I start over with the first layer squish.
The other issue I had was in Orca Slicer the zhop is turned off and that was somehow really screwing up my infill. I believe the default in most other slicers is 0.2mm. I set mine to 0.3mm and spiral. Seems to have fixed most of my problems. I'm still having a little issue printing infill close to 200m/s with a 0.4mm nozzle, but it's worlds better than it was.
after messing around with ellis print guide and abit of trial and error on the right settings and playing with orca abit more ive got on the right track of the settings to slowly fine tune. turning the nozzle hotter definitely helped alot, and figured out the fan settings a little bit how to work with layer time and %, ho still wish there was a way to overide it in ratos but maybe more playing will show. still not perfect prints but definitely useable now lowered my accel to decel and figured out how to get orca to run the right accels and speeds of things. all .3 layer height but running 150 start speed at 245 the jumping to 200mm/s with 255/260 ish nozzle temp to print properly. only battle now is the abs warping with what % to run the fan at, so far 35/40% with 4 seconds and 85 % on 1 second starting the fan 4 give or take layers up. came out with a 12 and 13 minute benchy, not following the rules but using for quality easy small print 3 walls .3 layer .6 nozzle 15% infil 18700 accel so i think thats running pretty good ill attach some pics later