sports coat fit advice
I posted this blazer last week and folks advised me that the shoulders and chest/front looked big, but the sleeves and length were pretty good.
I’m starting to poke around ebay for something that fits better and am not sure how much smaller to go. I know this is probably a tall order but does anyone have a sense of what measurements might be better?
This blazer is:
Shoulders: 18”
Chest: 22”
Sleeves: 23”
Length: 30.5”
For reference, my shoulders are 17” and chest 42”.
I’m also ok with and expect to need to do some tailoring, I just wanna make sure whatever I get is close enough for a tailor to finesse.
31 Replies
It’s so hard to tell with the wide angle lens. It looks pretty good
Yeah I mean these photos don't look bad
What got pointed out in the other thread was the vertical sort of fold of fabric on each side of the torso
The shoulders are just a half inch beyond my shoulder bump on either side, so probably not noticeable. I don’t see any shoulder sag
Yeah on second look the back isn't great. The front you can just call drape. Sorry, trying to look at photos while dog walkin'
I mean it's... probably passable. I would focus on maybe a smaller chest measurement. In theory it's lining up with your physical chest measurement but in practice it's probably a bit big. Your chest feels pretty loose right?
The other thing is it might have an armhole that's too low (too big / too tall / or not well shaped for you.)
Yeah the chest is very roomy with just a shirt under it. Haven’t tried it with any bulkier layers but it feels a touch big.
The potential armhole issues seem tricky to account for when eBay shopping. Like there’s more going on than just the measurements. Not sure how to deal with that
It's quite difficult. You basically need to have an eye for it.
I don't know how to explain it
Maybe something like this. Look up jackets made for big americans and brits. Look up jackets made for slim italians. Focus on how big the armhole looks from the front and back views. Can you spot how within the same size, some are cut smaller than others? (Less tall, top to bottom.)
Obviously I'm trying to find the most exaggerated differences, so look for cheaply made jackets for the first kind (think like, men's wearhouse stuff) and high end jackets for the second (think like, brunello cucinelli or something)
If you train your eye a bit hopefully you get closer to being able to spot jackets with overly large armholes designed to accommodate a very wide spread of people, which looks worse than those designed for a smaller subset of people allowing more precise tailoring
Go down a size - it’s hanging off your shoulders and too big in the chest. That should also help with what looks like the neck being too big and causing a gap.
Thanks for that. I’m gonna try to study up on this a little more before impulse buying something online. I googled the difference between low and high arm holes and will use that to find some higher armhole brands I can narrow my search down with.
Arm holes are part of the equation but are not the issue here. This is a sizing thing and not a cut thing.
gotcha
That makes things easier tbh.
I just went to the thrift store to try on jackets and 17.5” shoulders had divots on me, so I guess I’m looking for something just shy of 18” (I remeasured and the blazer in the pics is 18.25”). Chest could lose like 3/4” it seems.
Keep in mind that sport coats are shaping a 2D fabric in a 3D way. Divots doesn’t necessarily mean the shoulders are too small - it could be one of several things. Unfortunately the best bet with vintage is trying it on until you figure out how stuff from different brands fits you
@LeisurelyLoafing that makes sense! I’m gonna just figure it out (hopefully) by trying things on IRL. Once@I know what I’m doing I’ll eBay but there’s too many variables for a rookie like me
@LeisurelyLoafing and @gimp @ll.beansandrice🫘 The top button was loose and popped off, but what do you guys think of the style and fit on this? It’s still got the Montgomery Ward tag on it, so 70s or 80s? Obviously long but I like the brown and it’s in great shape.
Sorry to tag y’all but I like your fit pics/style and I’m in the store now!
Would get it shortened of course.
Looks like a much better fit imo
Little snug in the upper arm but that may sort itself out when you shorten the sleeves
Definitely better
Thanks guys. It was $7 so I went for it and will head over to the tailor later today. The blazer in the pics was a $1 so this has been a cheap experiment/learning process. Appreciate your help!
Looking forward to a photo after a fixed button and a good press
Does the length look ok overall? I just dropped it off at the tailor to shorten the sleeves and I asked his opinion and he was like “length is good, don’t mess with it.” It covers my seat, maybe slightly longer. I’m 5’9” if that matters (lots of guides online seem to base jacket length off height)
Length looks good. Maybe a touch on the long side but if you don't like it it's definitely better to just pass on the jacket entirely than to try and shorten it
That’s fair. It’s a little hard to judge with the sleeves so long, it just looks “too big” in the mirror overall. But I have a feeling that with proper sleeve length the overall fit will look and feel more intentional.
It might end up a bit long for a sportcoat, but still wearable imo and a cheap learning experience if not
I always have a tough time determining length from photos, because it's either poor lighting, poor contrast, or weird angles. Rarely get a clear well-lit photo shot sort of straight on with no tilt and at good height. Don't get me started on wide angle distortion ... point is, take my length opinions with a grain of salt!
But from what I can see, it seems like it's in the ballpark. I am not sure more than that.
Especially with a more casual fabric and especially with jeans, ballpark is usually fine. Nobody is expecting perfection. As long as it covers most of your seat, and isn't just way too long, then it's adequate. For a better answer I'd need a better photo - in this case the lighting and contrast is fine but between the mirror selfie and angle tilt, and no rear shot, I can't tell you better than that.
TL;DR probably fine, send better photos after tailoring for better opinion ;)
Back from the tailor — does this look in the ballpark for casual wear? Hope this photos are more useful!
Looks great! It’s a bit long but I think that’s fine. I prefer longer generally
Looks fine to me, nice fabric
Food for thought: I always find leather buttons a bit too old man. Swapping them out for some horn buttons would help a bit
I can see that!