American Trench Oxfords
Anyone tried the American Trench slow weave oxfords? The price point is pretty gnarly, but they look nice. Deciding between them, New England Shirt Co, or Gitman Vintage.
https://www.americantrench.com/products/slow-weave-oxfords?variant=45235666223350
American Trench
Slow Weave Oxford
Connecting like tectonic plates, a strong exterior takes time. That's the biology behind a turtle shell – and you'll find the same philosophy in solid shirting. While some oxfords come across as soft, our Slow Weave Oxford becomes a sturdy but breathable top layer. A locked in fit with a dense construction, these subst
29 Replies
The collar looks pitiful for a "real" OCBD
No, the collar is terrible
horrible collar
Mercer and Sons are cheaper than that and much nicer, I don't see any reason why these should cost so much
idk how good New England Shirt Co or Gitman Vintage are, but they also look better than this shirt
I'm very confused by Mercer and Sons. Their website looks like it's straight out of 1999 and I had no idea how to actually order a shirt. I finally found the section on ordering a shirt and again, quaint but also straight out of '99. From what I've seen for reviews, it's a very classic fit and far too long to wear untucked, so probably not quite what I'm looking for.
I hadn't noticed the collar but definitely appreciate the feedback - I'll probably lean towards GV or NESC instead.
Though I have to admit, the GV collar doesn't look too terribly different to me. https://gitmanvintage.com/products/white-oxford-1
Gitman Vintage
Gitman Vintage White Oxford Shirt
This white Oxford shirt is crafted from 100% cotton and features a button down collar and single breast pocket. Made in the USA.
the GV collar looks nicer than American trench (still a little small imo), price seems reasonable too
https://twitter.com/dieworkwear/status/1694616700963226065
ultimately up to you if you think collar roll and the length of the collar points is important
just something to consider
I had gv shirts
The collars are shit
Dont buy them
Kamakura Shirts Global Online Store
NEW YORK SLIM FIT - Button Down Oxford
Cotton 100% Button down Collar Front Placket Button Cuff Oxford With Pocket Made in Japan Read About Our Fabrics >Find Your Size >
GV collars are also small
these might be an alternative with a nice collar but a slimmer fit?
not made in USA tho
If you're willing to drop $200 consider MTM if you know what kind of fit you want
doing proper cloth, dial down your fit and go from there
i think 🤔
Tried on a couple GV shirts a few days ago - the collar looked pretty comparable to my old uniqlo and everlane oxfords that I've had for 5 to (jesus) 10 years at this point. Does it still look objectionable to yall?
While it's true I am willing to spend $200, MTM seems a bit more involved than I was planning for haha. Mostly looking to wear untucked with denim.
If you like that fit and the details and everything then the GV ones are solid. I'm quite picky about my collar roll and these days it's fairly easy to find a 3.5"+ collar point from Spier or Proper Cloth for example
Like I've said in other threads tho, OTR is generally better than MTM unless you are either really picky or have some very uncommon measurements
that looks nice :)
Thanks @ll.beansandrice🫘 ! The Proper Cloth shirts do look nice, though I'm not sure if they're ethically produced - I might ping them and ask some for some info about their manufacturing.
Now that I'm staring at it, the American Trech Oxford collar does look kind of small. Thanks for the GQ article @Nacho.
I think they'll do! I wouldn't mind if they were a tad heavier and they were pretty wrinkled, but I was trying them on in a store. They appeared nicely constructed and once washed and pressed I think they'd be a bit cleaner. And they're made in the USA.
I wrote several fair trade clothing guides back in the day so still looking for made in USA and/or ethically produced (made in USA is just a shortcut for that). https://www.reddit.com/r/malefashionadvice/comments/mnkuv0/fair_trade_clothing_part_2_the_new_americana/
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Sizing was a tad inconsistent. You can see in the pics that the grey one was a bit bigger than the green one. That might be something to watch out for.
MiUSA isn't really a shortcut for "ethical" production. But I suppose that largely depends on whether you consider prison labor more or less ethical than other options.
I mention a bit in the guide that it's a great starting point but not necessarily a silver bullet - see LA factories with bad conditions. But it's a much stronger starting point than factories in Asia. It's tough though. I've spent a lot of time emailing hip online brands about their manufacturing, be it domestic or abroad, and getting the runaround.
Good on you for putting so much effort into ethical consumption, more people could be like that. For me the amount of research you have to do to get questionable results isn't worth it. I just buy everything secondhand and less often.
Honestly that's great. I try to do the same. Companies like NESC and GV seem to be pretty ethical due to their USA factories and frankly their price point, but it's also true I can't visit and inspect haha. But if they last me a long time, that's great too.
let us know if you hear anything from Proper Cloth that isn't already published on their site
I'd also be interested
Will do. And while I don't want to assume, the reason I was skeptical was because I've emailed many many brands that have a section on "sustainability" but don't mention anything about their manufacturing. I can almost certainly tell you where this goes.
- they email back and say they're "commited to sustainability" but offer no firm details.
- when pressed, they say their manufacturing is based in Asia but they're "committed to good working condition"
- when I asked if their Asia factories are fair trade certified (or blue sign or certified b-corp or GOTS, listen I'm flexible here lol) the answer is no across the board but "trust us and buy our products plz"
- I give up and buy more lady white co t-shirts 😄
they do say where the shirts are made and don't try to hide it
but they don't provide any info about the Vietnam factory on the site
Vietnamese factories are fine most time if privately owned imo
If state run, it questionable
typically if manufactured in Asia then I need some sort of FT certification to show that the clothing is ethically produced. Fair trade is a spectrum and not a binary, and while Fair Trade Certified is not the be all and end all, I need to see something besides "just trust us". But that's just me - like I mention in the guide late stage capitalism is a doozy and everyone's $ has gotta go far. I think you nailed it with buying second hand or infrequently.