spier & mackay suit fit check
Hi,
I ordered a spier suit in size 36 just to try it on for now as they don't have physical stores and the first return is free.
How's the fit? Definitely need the sleeves shortened/slimmed but anything else?
Thank you!
178 Replies
I believe you might want to try a 34S
It's just a tad long to me so you'll probably want a "short" jacket
I already have a 34S that's too small 😦
A 34R I think would be best but spier never seems to have any available
Lots of fabric there in the back
Dang
Joe Button
Guide to Suit Alterations - Considerations for Jackets
The cost of suit alterations varies depending on the complexity of the problem. We’ve compiled a list of the most common jacket alterations to help you know what to expect when you visit a tailor, and what problems to look out for when buying a suit, new or old.
it seems like tailoring could get expensive?
Others will come along that will give good advice
Yes could be depending on stuff
I feel like all they should have to do is bring in some fabric on the back there
Shoulder tailoring is where it's expensive
Does the shoulder look alright to you? I feel like it's borderline
From the front they look ok. Might want to add a side profile pic too
But from the back they seemed too wide, which is whybi thought 34. Do you have a pic in the 34?
Yah, I made a thread for it and we concluded it was bad lol
Is that arrow pointing at your actual shoulder?
Good question lemme put on the jacket again
Yes it is sortve
It extends a lil past that arrow I think?
I'll take a side profile pic but I gotta change back into the whole ensemble lol
Yeah I think it'll help folks evaluate
Pics of the 34s?
https://discord.com/channels/1116793467654381685/1161172334829391982/1161438252578906173
hah you commented that it's much too short
different brands tho i haven't encountered a Spier size 34 for the life of me so that doesn't help
Yeah 34r
do you have any experience with spier's neo cut btw?
Yeah I love it
They’ve changed it a bit over the years tho but nothing big
do you think it'd solve some of the fit issues of a non neocut 36R (like the suit here)?
Technically MTM but idt I changed the jacket at all
is that a fair isle vest? 🔥
Seems to look weird tho not sure if I'm taking the photo right?
Just rest your arm by your side. Let it hang naturally
Like that guy
And then take pics of front sides and back, for future reference when submitting pics
What you could do is do a made to order spier at a 34r. You can email them and they will work with you on getting the right numbers put in. Since you have pics of 34 and 36 that will definitely help them narrow it down a good bit. By the time you spend all that money on tailoring an off the rack jacket, it might be same price as just doing a MTO.
Just send them an email saying your interested in a MTO suit and would like a consultation. It's a free service they offer. I haven't used it but if I were gonna do that route I would.
at that price, it's not so far from doing MTM in nyc though
where they'd actually take my measurements
True
I dont know your budget or location etc, so I was making some assumptions with that
i'd prefer to pay off the rack prices. hopefully the armoury will have a sample sale and they'll have 34R lol
seems like the base price for something decent MTM is $800 in NYC
you know where to look? ring jacket outlet
that's a thing?!
i see their 44 46 42,
yes
lol, there an actual rj outlet
what pricing did you see? lemme get the translator setup on my browser
thank you so much for alerting me to this!
have a to at it, get proxy if u find something
"NO-253 Classic fit
Features an elegant silhouette with just the right amount of room for the body's intonation.
The slightly wider collar and slightly lower waist position give a calming impression."
🔥
@gimp sorry to bother but what do you think about the spier suit?
Let me click through the images
Thank you!
I don't think that is a fit
The length isn't that concerning. The waist can be dealt with. But the entire shoulder and upper back area doesn't work and I don't think can be fixed
The shoulders on the 34 were significantly better though I am not sure we saw a great side and back photo
Thank you! That's very helpful to know. do you have any idea if their neo cut 36 could alleviate enough of the fit issues?
With the 36:
- There is a lot of extra fabric in the upper back. Now, excess fabric in the middle can be taken in, but the fabric at the sides where the armhole is and at the shoulder, I don't think so
- The jacket shoulder is too extended, and
- You can see the odd drape it causes at the sleevehead, where it sort of hangs loosely down until it meets your upper arm
- The sleeve has too much room in the back, it kind of billows and folds down
- The entire sleeve is wide (it can be slimmed or tapered -- but not enough to fix being too wide at the sleevehead)
Which cut is this?
Thank you!! The regular, non neo cut
36R is my usual size and my shoulders are significantly wider than yours, and I am fairly sure I fit into S&M's neo cut as opposed to their contemporary
Let me check my notes...
The neo cut has unpadded shoulders and higher armholes
"Styled in our Italian-inspired Neo 2 Cut with raised armholes, details include unpadded shoulders, wide notch lapels, and a 3-roll-2 button closure. "
I also fit well into a 36R Lazio from SuSu, which measures 16.5" across shoulders and 19.3" across pits
S&M measure their shoulder a bit differently than I do, but as far as I can tell, that correlates pretty well to S&M's neo cut in size 36 slim
Based on the differences I would expect you to be somewhere around 32-33-34, not 36.
IME the unpadded shoulder is less forgiving in terms of proper fit, you can't rely on the padding to save you with a little bit of extra shape and structure. All you get is what's baked into the canvas at the shoulder, the canvas at the collar, and the wool and how it's stitched and shaped.
I'd keep my eye out for S&M and susu stuff in size 34R on ebay, it's fairly rare but it may be fairly uncontested as well if it comes to bidding. Especially look at Ring Jacket (and Beams and Ships). I would really suggest in-person fitting if only to measure and write down the measurements that fit you well.
But really, I think it's entirely likely you're more a 32 than 34, which whould usually mean some 34 jackets work, but virtually no 36 jacket will, if my eye is right, which it very well may not be.
a 44 in rj outlet prob a good bet
thank you very much!
i need to locate any stockists for beams and ships in NY. I think ring jacket is only stocked at the armoury (of which only a small amount is mainline ring jacket) but I need to doublecheck. I emailed them to ask if they're doing a sample sale this year/next year. when they did one closer to 2 yrs ago, they had a selection from drop93 in HK which would include lots of mainline ring jacket
your advice on structure is very helpful
the armoury by ring jacket (not mainline) seems too extended with the shoulders?
no
I'll make sure to wear my susu or s&m 36R jacket this week and take a proper photo for you, especially focusing on the shoulders. I have some selfies but they're not super useful for reference because of how distorted the shape is when you twist your body to do a selfie haha
it cut shorter
more like american customers
say the rj non armoury is 48
that often correlate to size 38 us
Thank you so much!!
but if u wear the actual garment by armoury, it sorta 39
despite the 38 tag
you're saying the armoury version is cut larger?
larger in shoulder, a bit shorter in length
i have non armoury 48 and 50
also armory model 3 38
yah that's what i was saying!
larger in the shoulders is problematic for me it seems
No Man Walks Alone
Fox Bros green & brown glencheck sport coat, 13 oz wool & cashmere
One of the most elegant sport coats of the season, using an exclusive fabric collaboration Fox Brothers. An incredible merino & cashmere cloth with a tasteful and soft mix of complementary yarn colors. Very limited run of 5 pieces. Details Handmade single breasted sport coat with notch lapels and side vents Full ca
god this jacket is such a grail, imagine if it goes on sale 👀
i'm tempted to go over there just to try it on
why not 😆
i wished i can go places try on coothes
fox bro fabrics are great
i have a very thick herringbone one from them
you're right, i already bought a sweater at nmwa in person so it's not like i've never bought anything
was a great experience shopping there
it in inyc right?
yeah, not far from penn station actually
also close to the nepenthes store btw (haven't been there yet)
oh ok, gonna add it as a place to check out
i tend to stay in chinatown for food
yah i def recommend. you just schedule an appointment same day by phone
food in chinatown is soo good
love great ny noodletown
what pants would you style with the jacket i linked?
jeans, midgrey flannel
brown cord
brown dress trousers, charcoal flannel work too
i been wearing 1 pair of denim for 2nyear
urg lol
thank you! denim is hardy, i'm hoping my 3 pairs last forever
They're only making five so it's not going to be on sale, unless by some freak coincidence someone orders your size then sends it to probably luxeswap or NMWA :P
With that said, you gotta think about the details of the jacket. So, fox brothers is known largely for making very british, rather sturdy, and often heavy fabrics. That is not all they make, but that's sort of their claim to fame -- think what a british gentleman would use out on a country pursuit, or something adjacent to it in style if not in durability. Some scratchy tweeds, some soft spongy tweeds... and yeah some worsteds and so forth. This jacket is one example of that. 13oz, flannel, 95% wool / 5% cashmere (which in this case is added to make it softer on the hand, so probably not scratchy). Hunter green, glen plaid without being gun club. Patch pockets, spalla camica shoulder, wide lapels, quite italian and specifically neapolitan.
So to align formality and intent, you're looking at 1) warm, thick, fuzzy; 2) country rather than city; 3) fairly relaxed as far as sport coat details go, but structured; 4) which by modern standards still makes it more-formal in the sense of being a proper sport coat, rather than something like a chino or corduroy unstructured blazer.
So, natural combinations are going to be:
- Wool/adjacent, smooth worsted, heavy weight, likely in twill including cavalry twill, herringbone, whipcord, gabardine, etc (most formal)
- Wool/adjacent, flannel or tweed; dark colors (think earths and olives, navy, and gray); lighter colors (think cream, fawn, taupe, desaturated earths, desaturated blues, mid to light grays); and some brighter colors like rust, mustard, etc
- Cotton, heavyweight, likely in twill or whipcord or similar; colors are likely to be tans/khakis, olives, earths, darker blues, darker grays, and black -- but not 5-pocket (jean cut)
- Cotton or cotton blend, corduroy, in earths, navy, grays, black, rusts and mustards
- Heavy irish linen, darker or lighter colors, similar to above
- Cotton, denim, dark wash blue, black, maybe waxed black, possibly stone/ivory, or other jean-cut cotton trousers
That's in roughly descending order of formality. Heavyweight smooth worsted wools as most formal, denim as least formal.
On the flip side, I would avoid anything that seems like summer. EG, I would NOT do:
- Smooth worsted wool (or adjacent), lightweight, tropical, etc, ie, the sort of trouser that would feel comfortable when it's 78F and sunny. Adjacent here means wool blends -- anything smooth worsted, like wool/cashmere, wool/silk, wool/silk/linen, etc. These are usually your "normal suit trousers" or "normal more-formal trousers"
- Lightweight linen (italian linens), or linen/cotton blends
- Silk, or silk blends
- Chinos, if they're smooth and light
- Light wash blue jeans I think aren't it
- Or even less formal stuff like sweatpants etc
I am sure I am missing options but these are the easy ones. Align on intent: "Would this be comfortable when it's cold out? Do these seem similarly rustic?" and color scheme for country-inspired clothes pretty much always starts with earths and olives and often rusts and mustards, and can expand to more neutral stuff like navy, grays, black, and ivory/stone/off-white pretty often. (Oh and "grays" in country-inspired includes gray tweed that is speckled with other colors.)
Super helpful. thank you!!
that sportjacket is too much money for me at this stage (there was the 20% anniversary sale on everything but that still made it $1350+). very helpful though
I did some perusing of Japanese brands and while they do have RTW in my size, it's a bit of a mess figuring out what's decent (was looking at United Arrows, Beams and Universal Language in addition to Ring Jacket) and there aren't NY stockists. also Coppley MTM at LS men's clothes would be $800 but i'm not sure if their block works for me
What's your goal? I don't even know what you're trying to buy tbh
I need to start with getting a basic suit down that's suitable for interviews, weddings, and funerals.
I have a PRL navy blazer that fits so that's down at least
Do you have any of those upcoming?
my basic suits however do not fit
lol no but when I do, it could be pretty short notice
As much as I love tailoring, people can get really really far these days w/o a suit
Also you haven't really mentioned a budget
Up to $1000 I guess
Also, what patterns/textures are there that still leave a suit suitable for all formal occasions? The basic merino wool from Spier is a lil uninteresting tbh
It really depends on what you mean by "all" and "formal". If you're trying to get a suit that can carry you up to black tie optional it's going to be quite limited. If you just need to get to something like "cocktail attire" for a wedding you have a lot more options
uninterestingBeing versatile, especially in terms of formality levels will mean the fabric has to be less interesting. That sport coat above from NMWA could be very versatile for daily wear but doesn't fit the mold for a "weddings, interviews, and funerals" outfit
oh yeah i know. i mean more the difference between the merino one I ordered and this twill one: https://www.spierandmackay.com/product/medium-gray-twill---neo-cut-8254-neo2-hr01
like a minnis gray twill would be a more interesting texture and still work for everything right?
That looks like a good fabric
Ok LS Men's Clothes has what i'd need, pricing would be closer to $1000. He has makers who have Southwick's old blocks which sounds good
I could order something nice from a Japanese brand for $700 but that's risky not trying it on I think
eBay
34S Short Slim 28 Spier & Mackay VBC vitale barberis canonico Navy...
As the temperatures begin to drop, a flannel jacket is a must-have for any well-dressed gentleman. The soft flannel is the perfect weight to keep you warm as the fall chill arrives. Pair it with the matching trousers to make a classic flannel suit, or denim and a pair of loafers for a more relaxed look.
this is an option but i'm risking like $60 in shipping if it's too small and i have to return it
I thought we determined that 34S was already not a good fit?
You're right, not worth it imo. It may be brand dependent tho? The 36R definitely doesn't fit either. 34R would be ideal. There's also slim vs regular fit. All the 34 Spier suits I see on eBay are slim fit
I thought the 34s you tried in the other thread was spier tho?
Nope it's a suit by mantoni I bought in a store awhile back. Similar level of fabric and construction as well as price to spier
Also it was altered so who knows what they did to it
ah
I’m a bit perplexed why you’re looking at dropping 700+ on rtw suits, new or otherwise, when it seems like you haven’t gotten measurements figured. At that price, I’d either go directly to a tailor, or start measuring yourself and garments to ballpark what you need.
Did you check the measurements of the 34S jacket before ordering the 36r suit from spier?
Spier has published sizing charts for all sizes and cuts that are more or less accurate. Every maker has some sort of different cutting and blocking that will make a suit fit slightly different - it’s a bad move to look at tagged sizing alone and just take stabs in the dark between brands.
As for the spier neo vs regular, I don’t believe that’s going to solve your issues. It’s just got soft shoulders and slightly different blocking - it’s not going to be a magic fix
Yes... the cart is before the horse. You need to find a suit that fits and understand what tagged sizes and physical measurements work for you. You might do that as part of buying a suit, or you may do that intending to buy a suit and find one that fits but you don't actually like, or you may do that without really intending to buy the suit (if so, go when it's not busy so a sales guy can help you without taking time away from anyone else), but you gotta go to real stores and get it done. Buying shit online and paying shipping and having to resell it is not a winning strategy, it's frustrating and expensive
If you’re in NY, why not just go to a tailor or some place and just try on what they’ve got in your size? There’s like 2 armoury’s in manhattan and I’m sure someone there would be helpful - or any of the other tens of shops. Shit, even finding a good JC Penny jacket and just measuring that is better than nothing and more $600+ stabs.
As for versatility- just get some basic 120’s navy sharkskin. Trying to hit funerals, interviews and whatever else with something more intense isn’t really going to be viable. You could also go for a grey, or even a black if you don’t mind feeling a bit stuffy - but trying to get fun patterns and crazy stuff everywhere is a chore. Blander is better if you want versatility.
Especially places like the armoury and other reasonably high end stores have a reputation for being super helpful. They know even if you don't buy today, a good reputation and good service means you might buy later. Just go when they're not running around trying to take care of everyone else and they will spend time with you to get you the right size.
You're right I need to get measured. I wouldn't buy those RTW suits without getting measured. I should have done more measurements for the spier suit but I plugged in my stats into their calculator and they recommended 36R contemporary. It's a free return tho I do feel a lil bad being wasteful with shipping
Oh yeah I know, I was just thinking of something like a wool flannel (or maybe a sharkskin as you said) that's more interesting than spier's most basic merino
I'll get measurements done by a local reputable tailor this week
There are a lot of shops but not many that sell a size 34! I've looked into it
There is getting measured by a tailor but there is also trying on jackets and finding what actually fits well and recording its details
I suppose a trip to Macy's flagship and bloomingdales could be worthwhile just to see what fits
They should have a big selection of sizes
will stop by the armoury too
Yep.
Now to your second question. It is like @ll.beansandrice🫘 said. "All formal occasions" is somewhat vague but we can generally recommend the standard "earnest" suits in navy or charcoal, smooth worsted. The problem is that the more formal you go, the more the clothes are almost literally a uniform (in western menswear), so it's hard to be both formal and not "uninteresting."
The one most versatile suit you can own is probably a mid-navy, mid weight (let's say 280-320g), smooth worsted, in a pretty standard workhorse wool like a VBC super 110s. Plain weave, no pattern, no print. Probably black horn buttons. These days it would be a 2-button or 3-roll-2, notch lapel, not too wide, not skinny. Flap pockets. One or two vents, your choice, I prefer two. Flat front trousers or pleated is your choice, cuffs are your choice, though flat-front and non-cuffed is the simplest option.
If you don't like that, you can do charcoal. If you don't like that, now you gotta really think about what "versatile" and "formal occasion" means to you.
this flannel fabric works right?
is medium gray ok?
Lighter-than-charcoal gray is okay, sure.
Flannel I would not describe as all-purpose.
Part of "appropriate" suiting fabric is matching the weather or climeate to the extent that it is relevant. Would you go to an outdoor summer wedding with a darker gray flannel suit?
I find flat-front and no cuff to generally look odd tbh but idk if that's not formal enough for certain occasions or not
I'd opt for single pleat with a cuff but really it's how it looks on your body
"All season" fabric is a bit of a misnomer... everyone wants an all season fabric, but that really depends a lot on what a season is for you. In NYC you might be expected to wear a suit for social and business occasions outdoors, at temperatures ranging from like 50 to 90F (colder or hotter people are less likely to want to be outside wearing tailoring; colder people will likely wear an overcoat.) Additionally, direct sunlight vs evening makes a huge difference in temperature. It also depends on your own body and how you happen to regulate heat. It is possible you will be comfortable in 84F direct sunlight in darker gray flannel, but I suspect you won't. Flannel would usually be fall-winter-spring but not late-spring-summer-early-fall. Not always, this is not a rule, just generally
Also aren't you in NYC? Visit some of these shops or SuSu and see what fits you
But to me, "all formal occasions" in NYC means, roughly, as follows:
- Weddings, outdoor and indoor, including on golf courses and at country clubs in the summer, in old churches that have poor or no HVAC, etc, sometimes with outdoor ceremonies and indoor receptions, or church ceremonies and more comfortable venues for receptions
- Business, mostly indoors with good HVAC
- Getting to and from places, walking outdoors (with an overcoat when it's cold) and using the metro
- Social events to which you will be invited, including dinners at restaurants, drinks at bars, and cultural activities, often ones after work where you won't have time to change
- Hopefully not, but eventually almost inevitably funerals (usually outdoors in all manner of weather)
I feel like most funerals are not outside unless the person is actually getting buried and I've never been to one like that personally
Decades ago when HVAC was not ubiquitous or poor, people dressed warmer. Now there's a reason the most popular suiting fabrics are 100-150 grams lighter than they used to be. I would pick for decently warm weather (75-85F), under the assumption that you can put on more layers or thicker layers to get warm but you cannot (acceptably) remove layers to get cool
Oh. Unfortunately all the ones I have been to were those. Not wakes, but the funeral part of the funeral
(that's not really that relevant tho, more just a thought that popped into my head)
Anyways, so that's roughly my advice. A fabric good for 75-80F will keep you comfortable in most indoor situations, if it's hot, wear a thinner shirt, keep the jacket open more. As it cools down: 70F you're still good. 65F you may be a little cold but probably still okay, get a thicker poplin or broadcloth or oxford. 60F, consider a warmer shirt, warmer socks, and if that's not enough, a thin sweater or sweater vest can help. From my observation, men are still comfortable in suits at arond 60-65F if they were comfortable at 75F. Once you see 55F, you start definitely thinking of layering unless you are in motion; 50F even more so. Below 50F you likely go for turtlenecks, below 40F overcoats. So you're dressed adequately formally and comfortably in that range with this strategy. Especially indoors with HVAC you're good. (None of this is precise, or a science, just my thoughts on temperatures.) Above 85F you can kind of give up, almost nobody is truly comfortable, just do what you can. The problem is that flannel will likely shift that whole range down, especially if it's darker gray or charcoal which will get very warm in direct sunlight. Which is why it's rarely considered a summer fabric, and when it is, it's very thin and often worn unlined, which makes it not a great winter fabric if it's actually cold ...
If you do find flannel to be "it" for you, I would suggest a worsted flannel, in an unlined and possibly unstructured jacket. I have one, it looks like this, and I do wear it in the summer / warm months regularly. So it can work. It's just not my go-to recommendation and it requires a lot more thought than "lightweight navy suit with standard options, done."
Personal preference for sure. I think most men who are fairly slim find that no pleats works fine from a functional point of view, leaving just the personal preference for style. Flat front and no cuff is the simplest shape/combo and it's definitely very common in the US I think. Definitely not a formality thing (though formal [black tie, white tie, etc] pants tend to have pleats and are suppoed to have no cuffs, the cuffs are a 'rule' but the pleats are not.)
I just find flat-front trousers to look like chinos rather than trousers I guess so I like a single pleat and cuff
All up to preference!
Pleats/no pleats i don't mind either. i'm wearing pleated chinos rn
very helpful, thank you. what fabric alternatives are there to flannel that are still formal and not totally textureless?
oh wait i may be an idiot. the spier suit i linked says twill not flannel (what's the difference?)
HAH yeah I guess it's not flannel is it?
WHOOPS, sorry for leading you to write all that about flannel
is twill more all season?
hahaha
So, twills are tightly woven. You generally have as options gabardine, cavalry twill, more sheeny twill, and also herringbone is twill where half runs in the other diagonal except all in the same direction. That means warmer and less breathable. IE, better in winter, worse in summer, especially in direct sunlight. Given the same weight and fabric, twills and herringbones will run hotter than (eg) basketweave tends to.
is basketweave tropical wool?
Tropical wool is a general term for wools that breathe well and run cool. Basketweave is often woven to have an open weave, which means better breathability and runs cooler for the same weight. (It can be woven tightly though.)
IIRC, hopsack is one of the basketweaves, and again, hopsack is often woven to run cool. There are always counterexamples
Hopsack and basketweaves in general are somewhat less formal, and that may matter.
Birdseye and nailhead tend to be a bit more business-y, and have texture.
Sharkskin tends to be very business-y, sheeny.
what's the difference between those and twills?
i don't think I want too sheeny
Birdseye and nailhead are just different weaves than twills, they look different and are made differently
A lot of these are really not obvious until you see a lot of cloth. https://www.permanentstyle.com/2017/01/the-guide-to-cloth-weaves-and-designs.html
Permanent Style
The guide to cloth: Weaves and designs
The next in our series on Cloth is a guide to weaves and to designs. As with the A-Z this is meant as a reference tool, which we will link to as we publish more detailed pieces about trousers, jackets or overcoats.When we describe the benefits of gabardine for trousers,...
Like it's a great guide, but you really need to see, like, hundreds of samples or preferably suits/pants to see what the fuck is going on, because a lot of stuff looks different even when using what is in theory the same weave, or can seem almost the same using different weaves
Nailhead, pindot, and birdseye look kinda roughly like this: https://romandaniels.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/07/RD120247-SB.jpg
You've probably seen that sort of thing around often enough
looks nice
i do like how this minnis twill is a lil rustic!
It's got physical and visual texture, and that texture can be bigger or smaller (the smaller it gets, the more smooth it looks, and vice versa.) Generally appropriate for business.
Yes, Minnis makes good stuff, and twills can look solid. The downside of twills apart from potential heat issues are the whole uniform thing.
Basically, uniforms (school uniforms, military dress uniforms, any sort of armed or armed-adjacent uniform where being dressy is a factor) tend to use twill, often cavalry twill, hence the name ... cavalry twill. The problem with a twill suit is that it can look too similar to either a school uniform or an armed-forces/adjacent uniform (especially if it's tan for example.)
Not to say that that makes it bad, but just something you may want to keep in mind.
Gabardine doesn't have this problem nearly as much, and obviously a woolen twill (like most tweed jackets are) doesn't look like that either
i see, that's a good point
ok so far, I think my best bet would be LS Men's Clothes. He seemed to be saying that the price could be $850 ($950 could be ok too). it's frustrating to have to pay more than RTW but that price for MTM in the Southwick block sounds good. I will do an exhaustive trip through NYC to make sure i'm not missing any RTW options and to have a better idea of my measurements
I mean I could try to see if my measurements fit something RTW from Japan but it's still risky ordering online from Japan right?
I need to get my measurements so I can compare to Spier's 34 and 36 slim fit which is available too
If you can find Japanese RTW in NYC and understand your sizing with specific makers and specific brands, both tagged size and measurements, it significantly reduces risk of buying those brands from Japan. Though I will note that (eg) Ring Jacket doesn't necessarily make identical garments for domestic Japanese market as it sends to the US and Europe for example. This is why it's so important to have measurements of the stuff that fits well.
I don't think I can find any Japanese RTW in NY sadly but I will keep looking. The armoury only seems to stock a handful of main line ring jacket and not in 34 but I'll double-check with them on the phone
There's a store called kashiyama, lemme see what they stock
Seems like just a cheap MTM brand
I found a beams F suit in micron 21 for close to 500! Gotta consult with the tailor on the fit and compare it to my sportjacket that fits me best
In person or online?
online
https://www.beams.co.jp/item/beamsf/suit/21170118264/?color=15
What do you think?
also what does 6R mean? does it mean 6 drop?
https://www.beams.co.jp/item/beamsf/suit/21170096264/?color=17
there's also this option in super 110s pinhead ^
I am begging you to try shit out in person before spending $500 on an ebay suit
6R does usually mean drop 6. Remember it's euro sizing as well (I assume)
i know, i know. i'm going to go the armoury and try on their size 34s
and i'll have the tailor take measurements of my sportjacket so I can compare it exactly
it's new, not ebay
is a drop 6 typical? what are their non drop 6 sizes then?
Drop 6-8 is normal
I'm going to head to Saks off fifth to checkout how stuff fits rn. It's on the way home
Ok went to bloomingdales which yielded zero results. The jack victor suits were way nicer than the Hugo boss suits they were also selling fyi. They didn't have anything in 34 and all the 36s were too big. The smallest jack victor size was 38 over there
Gonna try Nordstrom next
The jack victor sportjackets had some really nice fabrics
The salesman was sortve obtuse but he was wearing some nice tailoring lol
Ok at Nordstrom, jack victor 36S seems to fit me
Sleeves would need shortening but the shoulders look alright I think
Nice loro piana wool silk linen but the pattern isn't for me I think
My outfit today is not on point, please disregard that aspect 
That looks okay. At first glance anyways. Would want sides and back
I'll go through the stores in NYC and take better pics. I think I finished going through the department stores in Long Island
Went to bloomingdales, Nordstrom, and Saks off fifth
Nice
Ngl it was sortve a drag 😂
Roosevelt field mall smells like a cinnabon, and the department stores smell like perfume.
It is one of the few malls in America that aren't declining tho
And the shopping options for something like tailoring just aren't up to par (tbf that's partly because my size is hard to find)
@gimp do you have an idea of which 21 micron fabric the beams suit is? i can't place it
Vitale Barberis Canonico
21 Micron
The unit of measure for a choice of style. A unique wool that gives Vitale Barberis Canonico fabrics character, crease resistance and a perfect drape.
Not generally, no. I can never find the vbc fabric online that I have references from bunches. I'm not even sure it's listed
Like I can hold a fabric from a this-year's-bunch, it has a reference, the distributor has it in stock, can't find it online in any way.
thank you! that's good to know
@gimp what type of wool fabric is the suit I got?
It looks rlly nice to me!
High twist?
It's not that transparent when I hold it up?
Another incan think of is hopsack
That'd be cool!
Here's the suit! It's a bit trimmer than I'd like but it's p good right? sleeves need tailoring
Maybe the tailor can change the button stance to make it a lil less tight on the waist too
Also these cuffs can be undone right?
Unsure of the fabric. May be a basketweave, like hopsack, but I'm not 100% sure from just photos a lot of the time. Shoulders look significantly better, but need the usual set to make a better judgment. Cuffs on the trousers can absolutely be undone.
Thank you! Does the jacket look like it's pulling at all on the waist?
I'll take a pic from the back tmmr, already took it off and time for me to sleep. I think it definitely fits way way better than my 34S suit though I still wish this suit was a lil less trim.
Obv fits way way better than spier's 36 contemporary suit as well
The suit is being dry cleaned n pressed so I'll take a back pic when I get it back
Excellent. The photo looks pretty decent to me. Side view seems to have okay shoulders, there are some wrinkles that I am not sure what they are due to, hopefully a fresh pressing is all it needs. Waist looks a little bit tight but I generally find it okay for the cardinal button to be doing a little bit of work, as long as it's not straining or pulling in a significant fashion.
thank you! i wonder if the waist (or midsection) width can be taken out a lil bit. will take a look if it's a problem after it's pressed. this article is interesting: https://propercloth.com/reference/how-much-can-your-tailored-clothing-garment-be-altered-by-a-tailor/
Carolyn Spalding
Proper Cloth Help
How Much Can Your Garment Be Altered by a Tailor? - Proper Cloth Help
While taking your Tailored Clothing to your local tailor is a great option for small alterations, there are some limitations to keep in mind before you go that route. Overall, a garment should fit so the … Read →
it was a MTM suit for someone else
this article also says on their MTM suits, you can take out the pants a bit in a number of areas. will also depend on if there's extra cloth for most of these alterations i think
Generally there's enough allowance for at least an inch. Men tend to ... grow in the sideways direction as they age, so taking the waist out a bit is standard. No guarantee
Custom clothes tend to be built with much greater allowances and often have minor differences in cut to allow certain alterations to be easier.
Okay, this is a 36R spier & mackay jacket on me. It's linen and has like ... 75 hours of wear since last press, which at this point it really needs, because I really slouched on it yesterday on the couch, so don't mind the wrinkles. This is how the shoulders fit me.
Let me get the side and rear, photos is being fucky, standby
Thank you!! These photos are really helpful. Linen is such a cool fabric btw
Something I didn't think of till I purchased this suit is how the pants fit may not matchup with the jacket fit. Both the pants and the jacket on the current suit I got are a bit trim for me. I wonder how tapered the beams size 34 suit pants are, it's good that issue came to my attention as it'd be disappointing buying a new suit with a leg opening too small and/or too tight a fit for my taste
The suit I have now I think is a keeper for the time being at least as it fits way better than what I have (for all I know it may fit perfectly after some tailoring).
Got to save on MTM/new RTW for the time being, I had $200 in unexpected costs of installing a car hitch today lol. Your sportjacket is really nice btw!
@gimp is a 9.5-75 in rise suboptimal on suit trousers (that's what the beams suit has)?
And what size leg opening is optimal on suit pants?
leg opening is really depending on each person,. it a preference
i cant stand 9.5
rather 11
for front rise
Thank you! That's what I was thinking...
Leg opening and rise depends on your preferences
Well I'm hoping for like a classic cut like you see in the pics Derek guy shows
Then under 10 inches is likely low rise for that
I am pretty sure my (32x30) jeans have like a ten inch front rise, and they're the standard low rise you expect on the most common jeans if that makes sense
Low rise is ball crushing for me
Yike
I want single or double reverse pleat for ample seat spce
And 12 inch rise to compensate my short legs 😂
That’s a low rise imo