Slow down Z axis only while "meshing"?
Hi Everyone.
I have the following config:
[bed_mesh]
speed: 300
[z_tilt]
speed: 100
[printer]
max_velocity: 300
max_accel: 3000
max_accel_to_decel: 3000
max_z_velocity: 10
max_z_accel: 500
square_corner_velocity: 5
I had hoped that lowering the max_Z_velocity would slow down the Z movements while "meshing" but it doesn't.
Is there a way of slowing the Z but still having fast X-Y when mesh levelling?
Thank you!
47 Replies
https://www.klipper3d.org/Config_Reference.html?h=probe#probe
Have a look at this
You can change the probe speed of the z movement
like-goldOP•2y ago
"speed is not valid in section probe". i tried using velocity in mesh and it wasn't valid either! getting annoyed with how difficult everything is on this printer lol
What probe do you have?
like-goldOP•2y ago
BlTouch
https://www.klipper3d.org/Config_Reference.html?h=blt#bltouch
Sorry, my bad
Should be
like-goldOP•2y ago
ah, thank you. i'll give that a whirl. im just waiting for it to start a mesh. i've set z velocity to 2mm/s to make double sure it has no effect in mesh. its painfully slow while homing!
What are you trying to achieve? The standard values should work right out of the gate
like-goldOP•2y ago
i want to speed up x / y movements on meshing but not z. meshing takes forever! still struggling to see what the meshing actually does. if the bed was really bad, would it dynamically move the z axis while printing to account for the bed?
Tilt i get, and i love it as my old I3 never had tilt. but mesh ....
Yes, the mesh is getting compensated while printing.
Take a look at this: https://os.ratrig.com/docs/configuration/adaptive-meshing
Adaptive Meshing (BETA) | RatOS
RatOS comes with it's own adaptive meshing (functionality was previously handled by PAM by Helge Keck), similar to KAMP. When enabled and configured in your slicer, RatOS will only probe the print area and your configured probe location, potentially saving a lot of time on smaller prints on bigger printers. RatOS will keep the resolution of your...
If you change the speed under
bed_mesh then the speed of the z move shouldn't changelike-goldOP•2y ago
i've been looking at this but seeing as i can't even get a good first layer i feel like its a task for later. although it would make every print start faster! bl touch speed works for tilt and mesh, doesn't effect homing. Thank you!
It definitely helps with probing speed and also with the first layer, because it only probes the patch of bed you really need
Its pretty simple to set up, one variable from False to True and a change in the slicer start code and you're good to go
like-goldOP•2y ago
no way! i thought it was a lot more complicated than that! i'll have a read through 😄
Mikl is a magician 😉
like-goldOP•2y ago
and.... it didn't work. its checking the whole bed lol
Upload your printer.cfg please
like-goldOP•2y ago
i may have put it in the wrong place. i've moved it to the macro section
like-goldOP•2y ago
Yes, macro section is the right place
like-goldOP•2y ago
i originally put it by the section where i declared speeds and velocity!
You can download the cfg by right click in the web portal
For the next time 😉
like-goldOP•2y ago
Didnt realise you could do that!
this makes marlin look so damn simple!
You'll get the hang of it sooner or later
like-goldOP•2y ago
so far i've managed much better prints from my machine with manual bed height callibration lol
Once you dialed everything in all the pain will have been worth it.
like-goldOP•2y ago
thats what im hoping!
Trust me, i went trough a lot of pain myself with that damn thing
But now its just working. Hit start print, no need to look after it, it just works
like-goldOP•2y ago
first layer issues! it starts printing as though the height is perfect and then after a few lines ( on the first layer) go down it appears to be over extruding like crazy
i've checked its extruding correctly by marking 100mm of filament and extruding it etc. im really a bit stuck!
Adaptive mesh is working great! 🙂
Sounds like the bimetallic problem. In short the rail and the extrusion underneath it are different materials, so they bend different amounts under temperature.
like-goldOP•2y ago
even if the printer has been heated for an hour or so it would still do this?
i generally warm the bed to 70c for a good 20 mins or so then print first layer 100c
There are different ways around it, one is to only use every second or third screw for the rail. Not to much tension, ideally with a bit of grease between rail and extrusion.
Important is that you always have the same process (so, always 20 min heatsoak) etc.
Personally i went with the dual rail mod, works pretty well
like-goldOP•2y ago
i've heard of this mod. only just built the damn thing
like-goldOP•2y ago
Start with the method of only using every third screw and not to tight
like-goldOP•2y ago
this is quite a high starting height. probably barely any bed adhesion but starts of clean. 5th line or so it's a mess
I've printed pretty large objects.. 220mm gears and stuff and it's all fixed by layer 4 or 5 but with massive elephants feet
does that look like the issue you had? it just feels like i have the settings wrong somewhere
Yeah, looks like it
While you preheat, are you heating the extruder also?
like-goldOP•2y ago
no, guessing i should be? wont it burn the plastic and clog?
Just preheat it to 150
like-goldOP•2y ago
if i preheat to 150 for 20 minutes and then mesh level, it will be ok?
Shouldn't be a problem
like-goldOP•2y ago
i know it heats to 150 before meshing anyway but maybe not enough time
It will surely help
like-goldOP•2y ago
its currently printing the best 1st layer test so far!
worryingly i don't recall changing any settings
Could be because it is now fully heatsoaked
like-goldOP•2y ago
i miss the days where the brim peeled away perfectly etc etc lol
yeah i wondered that